AR.com DIY cabinet dimensions...and a question/suggestion

[EFE Speakers]

Don't know why the garbage was included with the inside dimensions, but I'll try again!


Inside dimensions:

11 1/2 high x 7 3/8 wide x 7 3/4 deep

[poneal]

This guy is everywhere... :-) Thanks, Ed.

[poneal]

Kexodus, I didn't use any screws or nails but just titebond glue. You must countersink your screws and then get some of that wood putty to cover the holes. Then you must sand it smooth. If its not smooth, then when you veneer it will show the imperfections, especially if using a darker color. The most important thing I have found is to sand, then sand, and then sand some more until its perfect. Don't put anything on it unitl you have sanded out all the imperfections. Then you can seal and paint, stain or whatever. Trust me on this one. Put the extra effort up front on the sanding because later on the down the line the imperfections don't go away but get worse. I know from experience on this one. LOL. I've never veneered but I think the peel and stick vinyl veneer would be a lot easier to do than real wood veneer. PE has about 4 colors to choose from. You can probably get it locally at home depot or paint store also. Probably a lot cheaper too. PE has raised there prices again so my new vendor is madisound. Have a good one. Paul.

[kexodusc]

Oh, I've done a fair bit of veneering in my day, and I have a decent woodworker helping me out too.
Real wood is the way to go...I just did my new audio cabinet in a nice birch veneer...I got a darn close match to my Paradigm's finish too...
You are right about sanding...the most important bit...I've learned that the hard way too. MDF is really easy to work with though.
My cabinets are already screwed together, howerver, but titebond might be an option for the next 2 pairs.
I'm tempted to take the router to round off some of the edges and spiff up the next batch of cabinets, we'll see how these turn out first.

I've worked with the PE veneer already on my parents MK III 12" sub. It is surprisingly nice, better than the crappy pictures on the website. Folks in the PE forums are right though, it's not the most durable, but subs don't usually get lots of wear and tear on them, so it should be good...

[poneal]

Ya, I had an old mahogony table that I got at an estate sale a month or so ago. All the finish worn off, legs falling off, rusted screws, water stains, etc. It was 3" thick with large heavy matching legs made in the philippines. I brought that puppy back to life. I rounded the sharp edges and what a difference it made. Just made the living room table more appealing. My wife wanted to stain but I put the foot down and said no staining whatsoever. I clear coated it using that polycrylic and it came out beautiful. She was really impressed. The table looks brand new. I bought it for $30.00. In a store I'm sure it would cost upwards of $500.00. I would round if I were you. MDF rounds really well and I think it would make it more appealing. Just my two cents. I'm just glad I only have to work for 18 more minutes and then its home to work on the project some more. Let's keep in touch and let each other know how our project is going. Later, Paul.