Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 39
  1. #1
    AR Newbie Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3

    Recommendations for power Infinity Kappa 9's pease

    I own a pair of Infinity Kappa 9's that I am trying to find power for.
    Owners Manual Specs:
    Nominal Impedance: 4 to 6 ohm (recommends amps that can go lower)
    Power Rating: 60-340 watts RMS
    Efficiency: 102 dB SPL @1 watt, 1 meter
    Crossover Frequencies: 80Hz, 800Hz, 4500Hz
    Frequency Response: 29Hz-45kHz +/-3dB
    Physical specs:
    1x - SEMIT Supertweeter
    1x - EMIT Tweeter
    1x - 3" Edgewound Voice Coil Polydome Midrange Driver
    1x - 5" Polypropylene/graphite Diaphram Polygraph
    2x - 12" Cast Frame , L/C Tuned Woofers
    These speakers are 5ft tall and require lots of power. In the manual it says that each speaker can be bi-amped and recommends giving the most power to the woofers.

    I'm looking for people who have experience powering heavy duty speakers to recommend a budget (I will be shopping ebay, craigslist, and sites like overstock.com) solution for the power needs of these speakers. Any thoughts, experiences, or words of wisdom would be much appreciated
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    I've seen the 9's bring many a good amp to the tech bench. You need current, those babies drop low in impedance swings. They are cool speakers though if you find the amps to run them. Keep in mind it's not so much the power as the current the amp can produce. Not many mid-fi amps are going to do it, not Carver, NAD, Proton, Sumo, I've seen them all go down.

    On the least expensive side you could try Adcom 5500 or 555, nothing less. The biamping may be a good idea. From there if you have the budget look for Krell or Bryston.

    You might also try a XPA-2 from www.emotiva.com I don't have personal experience, they look good on paper and priced right. They give a 30 day trial.

    As a side note that's the first time I've seen a sensitivity rating that high. I thought the 9's were in the 88dB range as the rest of the line. That seems to be the rating Infinity is showing now. The 12's in the sealed enclosure sure produces some low end. I used to have a pair of 7's.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  3. #3
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    I also heard of a guy who had some 8's that he drove with an Integra power amp. Any amp capable of producing enough current will also need plenty of ventilation so you should either have an open shelf or maybe place the amps in the open close to the speaker.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  4. #4
    AR Newbie Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    Thanks for the quick responses! I have already seen an adcom gfa 5500 for $400 online which is the top of my price range. This is probably a silly question but could someone please explain to me how current is measured? What should I be looking for in an amplifiers specs, or my speakers, that defines the provided/required current? Also I was planning to have a pioneer 40w/channel receiver power the mid-ranges and tweeters of both speakers, then use something like the adcom 5500 to power the woofers, does this sound like an ok setup?
    Last edited by jtiesel; 09-06-2010 at 12:03 AM.

  5. #5
    Feel the Tempo eisforelectronic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    640
    current is usually expressed as amperage on specs for receivers. Harmon Kardon lists it as a spec. I think I've seen it on some Denon specs as well. Lots of receivers don't list it at all. Rule of thumb is if it's not listed, it's probably not very high.
    Audio Physic Avanti IV w/upgraded mids and crossover
    Emotiva UMC-1
    Emotiva XPA-3
    Peachtree Audio iNova
    Rega Brio-R
    Rega RP-1
    Sony PS3
    BAT VK-D5se
    Totem Acoustic Dreamcatchers

  6. #6
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    The set up you want to use might work temporarily. I suspect the Pioneer will go into protection a lot or die. The 5500 is a good amp I'd probably just run the speakers full range with that until you can afford another amp for the top end. The 5500 will be far superior sound from the Pioneer.

    As far as what to look for in "high current" I'd have to do some checking to see what amperage would be considered high but a rule of thumb is look at the power rating into 8 ohn and then into 4 ohm, if the power doubles or close to it into 4 ohms it's probably a high current amp.

    If Adcom is your budget run the 5500 until saving up then look for a 5400, 545 or another big boy for the top. The top end will swing low in impedance as well. The 5500 may be all you need but if you biamp I suspect it will help the amps and may sound better. As stated earlier keep the Pioneer for another job biamping with that would really not be good.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  7. #7
    AR Newbie Registered Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    There is an adcom 555II selling for 350$ in my area. Would that be able to run either the low or high pass or possibly both?

  8. #8
    Forum Regular blackraven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St. Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    4,771
    Current is measured in amps and you may see it listed in peak amps. 30 or more would be considered high with 30 being on the low end. Generally, 45-60 peak amps is high.

    Here's a used Van Alstine Omega III 200wpc power amp with a warranty for $595. It should drive anything you throw at it. Give Frank Van Alstine a call and discuss your concerns. He always answers the phone.

    http://avahifi.com/index.php?option=...cff8d9418108dc
    Pass Labs X250 amp, BAT Vk-51se Preamp, Pass X-1 Preamp
    Magnepan QR1.6 speakers
    Van Alstine Ultra Hybrid Tube Preamp and Ultra Hybrid Tube DAC
    Martin Logan Original Dynamo Sub
    Parasound A21 amp
    Vintage Luxman T-110 tuner
    Magnepan MMG's, Grant Fidelity DAC-11, Class D CDA254 amp
    Monitor Audio S1 speakers, PSB B6 speakers
    Vintage Technic's Integrated amp
    Music Hall 25.2 CDP
    Adcom GFR 700 AVR
    Cables- Cardas, Silnote, BJC
    Velodyne CHT 8 sub

  9. #9
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    The 555 and 5500 are both 200x2, the 555 is an older model. Both are good amps. If you could buy both it would be the best but I believe either could probably run the 9's in full range.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  10. #10
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12

    My Amplifier recommendation

    Hello

    it seems to be pretty amusing what was recommended above. There is one thing you can be sure. After having the crossover repaired to met its orginial specs and woofers refoamed you should consider that your louspeaker is like new, so I would enourage you to use newer eletronics, becouse they surpass the preformance with the loudspeaker.

    If you want to drive the whole loudspeaker with one amplifier I would recommend you the Modwright KWA 150 power amplifier. It sounds better than the Pass amp and even more natural in the mids and highs.

    If you want to biamply I would certainly encourage you to use a vaccum tube amplifier for thr midrange and tweeter. I have tried the Balanced Audio Technology BAT 150 VK Se and it sounded beyond my dreams.

    For the preamp I'm thinking about an Asthetix Calypso or a Modwright SWL 9.0Se.

    This amps aren't cheap, but the Kappa 9's are close to the Genesis 3 in preformance and they sound excellent with that amps. It is often said that the Polydome produces harshness or shrillness, but once you hear them with newer eletronics or tubes in the mids and highs it sounds almost totally different. (airy and spaceous)

    Hope that helps.
    Stefan

  11. #11
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12

    Talking

    The Emotiva 2 doesn't have the power to drive the Kappa 9's , but I was very impressed with the XPA-1 on the 9's.

  12. #12
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    867
    Quote Originally Posted by efertheredfish
    The Emotiva 2 doesn't have the power to drive the Kappa 9's , but I was very impressed with the XPA-1 on the 9's.
    Wow! It must be quite the load. The XPA-2 is capable of 300w/ch, has a 1.2KVA transformer and additional 450,000uf secondary capacitance. The Kappa's spec say the load is 4-6 ohms. The output must be at some incredible phase angles.

    I have the XPA-5 (200w/ch 8ohms) driving my Legacy Focus mains. They have three 12" woofers, 2 7" mids and two tweeters with only 94db efficiency instead of the Kappa's 102db. It has no problem driving the Focus. I've had them bi-amped before which helps with adjustments, but I didn't really notice a difference in power.

  13. #13
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    Glad we could amuse you Stefan, if you took in the entire thread you should have noticed the OP has a limited budget, so BAT is as out of range as the Krell or Bryston I mentioned in an earlier post. The Adcom and Emo are capable of producing decent amounts of current, may not be optimum but far better than a receiver. As I mentioned I personally haven't had hands on the XPA-2 but on paper and with the number of output devices it looks like it shouldn't do so bad at driving the 9's.

    IMO if some one found the Poly Dome harsh there must have been a problem. I always found them to be very smooth. They were made by Vifa.

    Bfalls, the 9's may be rated at 4 to 6 ohms but the impedance isn't stable and can dip dangerously low for all but quality amps capable of high current.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  14. #14
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    867
    [QUOTE=
    Bfalls, the 9's may be rated at 4 to 6 ohms but the impedance isn't stable and can dip dangerously low for all but quality amps capable of high current.[/QUOTE]

    I understand that completely, that's why I mentioned phase angle as well as impedance. I know it's not all about impedance. I've been reading speaker reviews for over 40yrs. Having an electronics degree I understand all the speaker graphs.

    Still I believe the XPA-2 could handle the current requirements of the Kappa 9s. At least as well as the Adcoms.

  15. #15
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    The XPA-2 should actually be some better than the Adcom on paper. Now that I have more experience with higher end gear it would be fun to go back and hear the 9's again to see how they do.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  16. #16
    Shostakovich fan Feanor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by jtiesel
    There is an adcom 555II selling for 350$ in my area. Would that be able to run either the low or high pass or possibly both?
    I have owned the 555II. It's a fine, slightly dark sounding amp and capable of driving 2 Ohms. It would do the job quite well, and is a bargain at $350.

  17. #17
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    @ Mr.Peabody.

    Ok the cheapest working soloution is in my opinion a Parasound HCA2200 (500$) for the woofers. For the midrange and tweeter you can use a Sonic Frontiers Power 2 (1200$).
    Then you need a gain controller to adjust the attenuation of the low frequency and high frequency ampliifers. ( FIRST WATT BUFFER B2 300$ if you email Nelson Pass)
    As a preamp you can use a Prima Luna tube for 300$.

    With the HCA220 you can drive the whole speaker too.

    You do not need to buy all at once, but I would recommend this combination as a lower priced one. It doesn't make sense to buy a cheap Adcom that can't really drive those speakers and as I have talked with Arnie he still would recommend a tube amp for the midrange and tweeter becouse its sounds simply excellent on the Kappa 9's.

    I hope this helps.

  18. #18
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    If you do not have the budget at all start with the HCA2200 and drive the whole speaker with that power amp.
    Any other amp inclduing the Adcoms and the Aragon's are unstable and cannot drive that speaker in extended mode. The HCA2200 works very well even at high volume levels.

    Cheers
    Stefan

  19. #19
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Parasound-HCA-22...item27ba2a47c2

    Grab this one as long as you can!

  20. #20
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    If the 2200 is a Halo it may have a chance, if not, it's destine for the service bench.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  21. #21
    Forum Regular blackraven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St. Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    4,771
    Have you guys looked at the date of the initial post?
    Pass Labs X250 amp, BAT Vk-51se Preamp, Pass X-1 Preamp
    Magnepan QR1.6 speakers
    Van Alstine Ultra Hybrid Tube Preamp and Ultra Hybrid Tube DAC
    Martin Logan Original Dynamo Sub
    Parasound A21 amp
    Vintage Luxman T-110 tuner
    Magnepan MMG's, Grant Fidelity DAC-11, Class D CDA254 amp
    Monitor Audio S1 speakers, PSB B6 speakers
    Vintage Technic's Integrated amp
    Music Hall 25.2 CDP
    Adcom GFR 700 AVR
    Cables- Cardas, Silnote, BJC
    Velodyne CHT 8 sub

  22. #22
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO, USA
    Posts
    9,571
    Yeah, but I think I was involved back there some place.
    Mark Levinson #512
    Pass Labs XP-10 & X250
    Clearaudio Performance DC, Dynavector 10x5, AcousTech Ph-1p
    Clarus Crimson loom - AC outlet to speaker terminal
    Revel Performa F52 main/center & S30's
    SVS PC13 Ultra (sub)
    Marantz BD-7003 > AV-8003 > LINN 5125
    Transparent cables / Tributaries HDMI
    PS Audio Quintet

  23. #23
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Peabody
    If the 2200 is a Halo it may have a chance, if not, it's destine for the service bench.
    You have very nice humor my friend. The Adom and Aragon switch off prettily fast. The HCA2200 can drive the Kappa 9's quite well even at very high volume levels. The circuits are built for deliver the current that the Kappa's need hence it is a ultra high current design.
    Even at the phase angels of minus 30 degrees the Kappa produces on that load cause the clipping lights to blink. It is usually very funny to watch, but the best thing of all the amplifier stays always on even under those conditions.
    Test protocols have shown that the amp works pretty stable under these conditions if you do not pull the knob as far as it will go.

    Cheers
    Stefan

  24. #24
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    116
    Good day mate! welcome to the world of "difficult driving" Infinity dinasours...

    No pun intended! but I've had many wonderful experiences driving classic speakers, especially Infinities! I used to own a pair of Renaissance 90's (the last true Inifinity classic made by Arnie Nudel); similar specs but sensitivity was far less somewhere around 89dB... nonetheless, as many of us have mentioned you will need a lot of high current and power to match it if you want the best out of your Kappa 9's!

    I was using massive Manley 350 watt monoblocks (all tube design) and the preamp at the time was a conrad johnson PFR. Before the Manleys I tried numerous solid state power amps that never really did it for me, here are my ratings.
    1. Adcom - crap!
    2. Parasound - ok, no musicality at all, just noise...
    3. Threshold - absolutely useless
    4. Forte - another useless piece of capacitors & transformers...
    5. tried out some older Haflers, & Sumo amps - ran out of steam within 30 mins, so did Carver, absolutely no go with any of these cheap amps.
    6. Phase Linear - another load of bollocks, shut down after about two hours, cannot remember exactly when, but didn't turn on after that!
    7. Accuphase - crap
    8. NAD - forget it!
    9. Audio Lab x 4 monoblocks - absolute nonsense!
    10. B&W 600 watt monoblocks - drove ok, but didn't have the guts for bass, did not shut down held together quite well - yea it better specially at 600w/ch!
    11. Carver Lightstar by carver research - drove quite fine, not so musical though.
    12. Sunfire - held together quite well, overall balanced sound compared to the above.

    All of the above were rated at around 250w to 300w/ch or more, however none of them gave me that musicality factor I was looking for. I went up a few notches, and tried some real quality amps from a few good friends who leant them for trials:
    1. conrad johnson MF2300 - excellent! plenty of drive and very musical.
    2. Krell KST - very good drive for just 100 watts, plenty of power in reserve, solid imaging.
    3. Krell KSA 200 - very similar to the KST with double output and plenty of drive! well capable of driving the inifinities to true potential.
    4. Bryston - older version of a 4B SST, capable of delivering somewhere close to 500w at 4ohm loads; excellent power amps to drive difficult loads.
    5. Pass Labs older Aleph series, was outstanding! - probably the best overall sound, but the most expensive compared similar to an older Mark Levinson 450 watter that I tried out for a very short while since the owner didn't want to leave his amp over night, can't blame him; another beautiful amp indeed!

    Out of all the above solid states, the Krell, Bryston, and Pass Labs amps were the best match! Then I tried some tube high-powered amps, and my golly! now this is what I call music & sound stage with a SLAM! Eventually I bought the Manley monoblocks 350 reference series, and they drove the Ren 90's to their true potential, absolutely no strain whatsoever effortless live scale of music. preamp and CD player were all conrad johnson design, did have a sonic frontiers SFL-1 for a very short while.

    I understand that you have a limited budget, didn't we all ...
    I must say this though; you have bought a speaker that needs good power to drive, matched with good stable output. The basic mistake you've done is bought the speakers first and now you don't have anything to drive them properly. Biggest mistake so many make! You must always plan to buy your amps first, then match your speakers around this. This way you will not fall short on power, and whatever speaker you upgrade to you will always have ample power to drive them...

    You may have the best speaker in the world, but they are only as good as the amps driving them!
    The infinity Kappa series are NOT mickey mouse speakers, they are true infinity classics, and require quality gear to get the best out of them. each time I have auditioned a Kappa series speaker they were all driven with some serious Krell gear or Bryston amps on solid state, and massive tube amps from Audio research, Manley, VTL or McIntosh.

    Now that you've bought these, you will have to start from scratch; there is absolutely nothing out there of solid state for "cheap prices" that's going to do justice to your Kappa 9's. if there is any amp as I have listed above that is a real bargain in the high-end brands, carefully check it out make sure there is nothing wrong with it, or it has had a major repair...

    If I were you, I would invest in a good 100 watt tube power amp to begin with, capable of driving the Kappa 9's within reasonable levels. some where around $1000 to $1500 should get you a good tube amp between 100w to 150w/ch that can easily drive the kappas. after you have saved enough, I would then upgrade to either a higher output tube amp somewhere around 300 to 450w/ch and you will be amazed at what the kappa's can really do! At the moment you don't have any idea, hence the reason I said you've bought these speakers without considering some serious amplification...

    If you do eventually want to go solid state, I would save enough for either Krell, Pass Labs, Mark Levinson or Bryston on a more affordable scale.
    All the other makes as mentioned in my previous list, will probably drive the Kappa's to some degree, but will never make your Kappa's sound like a "real Kappa!"
    Ask Arnie, and he will tell you directly what he has created; the Kappa series can deliver a true live performance if partnered with the right equipment, and it is a beast to drive - period!

    If you are on tight budget, I would plan the following:
    (tube power)
    (1) 100 to 150 watt tube amp to begin with, for a good second hand value with matching preamp.
    (2) upgrading to 200 to 250w in step two with better preamp in the long run and your Kappas will sing!
    (3) eventually getting the big monoblocks to drive your kappas, 300 to 400w and you will be performing with the band on the stage itself!

    Solid state power:
    (1) get hold of either Bryston, Krell, MacIntosh, or Conrad Johnson will easily match well, special bargains may be out there with a good preamp.
    (2) aim to upgrade to around 400w plus on solid state gear and you will begin to notice what the Kappa's are about.

    Once you've reached this level, you'd probably think there is nothing better..., until you've tried some high-powered tube amps!
    All the best and let us know how it goes...
    Cheers, Raj J

  25. #25
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Raj J
    Good day mate! welcome to the world of "difficult driving" Infinity dinasours...

    No pun intended! but I've had many wonderful experiences driving classic speakers, especially Infinities! I used to own a pair of Renaissance 90's (the last true Inifinity classic made by Arnie Nudel); similar specs but sensitivity was far less somewhere around 89dB... nonetheless, as many of us have mentioned you will need a lot of high current and power to match it if you want the best out of your Kappa 9's!

    I was using massive Manley 350 watt monoblocks (all tube design) and the preamp at the time was a conrad johnson PFR. Before the Manleys I tried numerous solid state power amps that never really did it for me, here are my ratings.
    1. Adcom - crap!
    2. Parasound - ok, no musicality at all, just noise...
    3. Threshold - absolutely useless
    4. Forte - another useless piece of capacitors & transformers...
    5. tried out some older Haflers, & Sumo amps - ran out of steam within 30 mins, so did Carver, absolutely no go with any of these cheap amps.
    6. Phase Linear - another load of bollocks, shut down after about two hours, cannot remember exactly when, but didn't turn on after that!
    7. Accuphase - crap
    8. NAD - forget it!
    9. Audio Lab x 4 monoblocks - absolute nonsense!
    10. B&W 600 watt monoblocks - drove ok, but didn't have the guts for bass, did not shut down held together quite well - yea it better specially at 600w/ch!
    11. Carver Lightstar by carver research - drove quite fine, not so musical though.
    12. Sunfire - held together quite well, overall balanced sound compared to the above.

    All of the above were rated at around 250w to 300w/ch or more, however none of them gave me that musicality factor I was looking for. I went up a few notches, and tried some real quality amps from a few good friends who leant them for trials:
    1. conrad johnson MF2300 - excellent! plenty of drive and very musical.
    2. Krell KST - very good drive for just 100 watts, plenty of power in reserve, solid imaging.
    3. Krell KSA 200 - very similar to the KST with double output and plenty of drive! well capable of driving the inifinities to true potential.
    4. Bryston - older version of a 4B SST, capable of delivering somewhere close to 500w at 4ohm loads; excellent power amps to drive difficult loads.
    5. Pass Labs older Aleph series, was outstanding! - probably the best overall sound, but the most expensive compared similar to an older Mark Levinson 450 watter that I tried out for a very short while since the owner didn't want to leave his amp over night, can't blame him; another beautiful amp indeed!

    Out of all the above solid states, the Krell, Bryston, and Pass Labs amps were the best match! Then I tried some tube high-powered amps, and my golly! now this is what I call music & sound stage with a SLAM! Eventually I bought the Manley monoblocks 350 reference series, and they drove the Ren 90's to their true potential, absolutely no strain whatsoever effortless live scale of music. preamp and CD player were all conrad johnson design, did have a sonic frontiers SFL-1 for a very short while.

    I understand that you have a limited budget, didn't we all ...
    I must say this though; you have bought a speaker that needs good power to drive, matched with good stable output. The basic mistake you've done is bought the speakers first and now you don't have anything to drive them properly. Biggest mistake so many make! You must always plan to buy your amps first, then match your speakers around this. This way you will not fall short on power, and whatever speaker you upgrade to you will always have ample power to drive them...

    You may have the best speaker in the world, but they are only as good as the amps driving them!
    The infinity Kappa series are NOT mickey mouse speakers, they are true infinity classics, and require quality gear to get the best out of them. each time I have auditioned a Kappa series speaker they were all driven with some serious Krell gear or Bryston amps on solid state, and massive tube amps from Audio research, Manley, VTL or McIntosh.

    Now that you've bought these, you will have to start from scratch; there is absolutely nothing out there of solid state for "cheap prices" that's going to do justice to your Kappa 9's. if there is any amp as I have listed above that is a real bargain in the high-end brands, carefully check it out make sure there is nothing wrong with it, or it has had a major repair...

    If I were you, I would invest in a good 100 watt tube power amp to begin with, capable of driving the Kappa 9's within reasonable levels. some where around $1000 to $1500 should get you a good tube amp between 100w to 150w/ch that can easily drive the kappas. after you have saved enough, I would then upgrade to either a higher output tube amp somewhere around 300 to 450w/ch and you will be amazed at what the kappa's can really do! At the moment you don't have any idea, hence the reason I said you've bought these speakers without considering some serious amplification...

    If you do eventually want to go solid state, I would save enough for either Krell, Pass Labs, Mark Levinson or Bryston on a more affordable scale.
    All the other makes as mentioned in my previous list, will probably drive the Kappa's to some degree, but will never make your Kappa's sound like a "real Kappa!"
    Ask Arnie, and he will tell you directly what he has created; the Kappa series can deliver a true live performance if partnered with the right equipment, and it is a beast to drive - period!

    If you are on tight budget, I would plan the following:
    (tube power)
    (1) 100 to 150 watt tube amp to begin with, for a good second hand value with matching preamp.
    (2) upgrading to 200 to 250w in step two with better preamp in the long run and your Kappas will sing!
    (3) eventually getting the big monoblocks to drive your kappas, 300 to 400w and you will be performing with the band on the stage itself!

    Solid state power:
    (1) get hold of either Bryston, Krell, MacIntosh, or Conrad Johnson will easily match well, special bargains may be out there with a good preamp.
    (2) aim to upgrade to around 400w plus on solid state gear and you will begin to notice what the Kappa's are about.

    Once you've reached this level, you'd probably think there is nothing better..., until you've tried some high-powered tube amps!
    All the best and let us know how it goes...
    Cheers, Raj J


    Paul and Arnie told me that they don't like and recommend the sound of the Krells for this speaker. They work pretty well for the woofers, but they are at least unmusical for the midrange and tweeter. If you have the budget and want the amp the Kappa 9's have been developed with you might look for an Audio Research M300.

    I agree with most of your statements expect one. I do not know why you say the Threshold's are useless. They are still at the forefront amps when you look to match Genesis and Infinitys to the midrange and tweeter panel and they sound pretty similar to my M300's.

    Best,
    Stefan

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Latest AudioReview Articles

Hot Deals

Latest News

AudioReview on Facebook