Subwoofer for Reciever without Sub connections

[markw]

Now for the technical breakdown

I'm not familiar with ADS speakers or even the size of the 300's.

Not a problem. The basics are the same all over,

However the only correct way to hook up a sub, especially for just music is through a sub output.

Really? How did they "hookem up" if there is no sub output?

I know that home sub amps have like three different ways to hookem up, but one is really the only way to hook up a sub.

You do realize you've just contradicted yourself, don't. you? But, I guess all the sub designers and working audio technicians don't have a clue, right?

The high level inputs are the way you would hook your sub up to your current receiver.

Well, if he doesn't have a sub out or line outs, then that's all that's left right? I do believe MikeyBC said this in post # 2, but he only neded one line to get that point across.

The huge problem with that is that your main speakers will be doing full bandwidth and doing the same frequencies as the sub.

Well now, don't be too sure of that, partner. This is where I stated to doubt the depth of your knowledge on this subject. Most subs, when being fed a speaker level signal parse out the lows and send them to the subwoofer, leaving only the highs to be fed to the mains. Problem solved!

This will lead to hills and dips caused by frequency overlaping and cancelation.

Technobabble. See above paragraphs. As you know, enhanced bass can excite room nodes and cause strange effects no matter which type of crossover is used but, in any case, as pointed out above, the sub itself has already taken steps to minimize any interactions.

You have a few options that are sure to put a smile on your face when you listen.

I'm sure you've found a few, but we're talking audio here.

You can do what Spastic said above, and ge't speakers that don't require a sub.

But this requires money, which he might not be able to spare at the moment. Let's keep it real, shall we? And, very few speakers cannot benefit from a well integrated subwoofer.

Or get a line level high pass filter and run it through your tape loop or better yet pre-main couplers if your receiver has them.

This is the part where you showed me, without a doubt, you haven't a clue as to what you're talking about and were just throwing out technical sounding terms with no regard to what they mean.

You DO know where, in the signal path, the tape loop is, don't you?

Well, for those that don't and wish to learn, it's immediately after the input selector and right before the volume control. Essentially, it's right before any preamp stages and, by association, long before the power amplifier.

Assuming he has a tape loop and followed your advice, wouldn't this a strip out ALL lows from the signal chain from that point on? If he did that, all bass would be removed from the signal path before the volume control in the preamp. By the time the sound gets to the speakers, the subwoofer wouldn't have anything to do!

Did you ever check out his amp? Obviously not. If he had pre-outs/main ins he would have been directed to insert the sub there and we wouldn't be having this discussion, now would we? Even if he had pre-outs/main ins and inserted this hi-pass filter there, no lows would have made it to the speaker outputs. But, that's an illogical assumption since the sub wouldn't have been hooked up there. ...more of your technobabble to muddy the waters.

Lastly get a Dolby Digital receiver that can high pass your main speakers.

Again, so ready to have someone else spend money to accommodate your limited skill level. It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools for his mistakes.

No matter the size of your mains (big or small) If you cannot high pass your mains, your bass will suck if you add a sub.

I believe we've already shown this is a non-issue above. But, some speakers are "polite" enough to simply ignore any sounds below what they can cleanly reproduce.

Plus if you're planning on getting a cheap sub like less than 200 bucks, it won't add anything to what a good full range floor stander can already do.

Now this I can almost go along with. Always buy the best sub you can afford. Even if it "outclasses" the current system it can blend well when one upgrades to different gear.

For cost efficient subs, Parts Express offers a line of Dayton subs that are unbeatable for the money that start below $100, less if they go on sale. Go to www.partsexpress,com and search on "dayton powered subwoofers"

Sorry you take these things so personal but, as you can see, your post was so full of misinfoirmation that I was hoping to avoid this. But, upon further reflection, I figured "what the heck, he did ask for an education." It's one thing to be wrong. It's yet another thing to be arrogant about refusing to see it or admit it.

Oh, when I was 13 they didn't have the internet. JFK was president, color TV was still the big thing on the block, FM stereo had just been approved the year before, I was repairing tube radios, and was just buiding my first amp from a circuit in the RCA Receiving Tube Manual (1959 edition).