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  1. #1
    IRG
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    Musical sub recommendations

    I am looking for a new sub to replace my current JBL PB-10 sub. The JBL has been a fine unit over the years, and performs well for modest HT needs. However it is downward firing, and having wood floors, I need/want a front firing sub. My room is about 13x19, 8 foot ceilings. Sub will be used for both music and HT. My emphasis is music, although it will get used for HT more. But my feeling is if it sounds good for music, than it will be good enough for HT. I do not need or want wall shaking bass, as my main living space is fairly small, and I have 2, soon to be 3 kids, who after 8 p.m. I don't want it loud enough to wake them. Receiver is a NAD T743, main speakers for now are Energy C-3. Budget for this sub around $400.

    From what I have seen out there, the Adire Rava seems like everything I want in a sub, and it looks great too. Obviously I can't try one out though, til I buy it. I have a local dealer that sells Klipsch reference, Boston Acoustics, Monitor Audio and PSB. MA sells an entry level sub, the asw-100, but at $389, the Adire seems like a better sub. Anything else I should look at by Velodyne, Paradigm or B&W? I would buy used, but would prefer new.

    My emphasis is on musical bass, where I can hear the notes of a bass guitar or a string bass being played, vs. the slam of some subs (I used to play string bass). My musical tastes are varied, from classical to blues to progressive rock and a few things inbetween. Rap/hip hop not of importance.

    Is there a better sub I should be considering in the $400 range than the Adire? Thanks.

  2. #2
    BooBs are elitist jerks shokhead's Avatar
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    The downfiring sub on a wooden floor is a problem why? Since HT produces lower freq,i think you have it backwards. Try something like www.shopping.com and do a comparison side by side. Me,i like the Klipsch Reference and the PSB.
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  3. #3
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    As an owner, I'll definitely vouch for the quality of bass that you get with an Adire Rava. At $400, it's an excellent value. It's also different from the other choices that you have listed in that it's a sealed sub. The factory specs indicate a bass extension down to 27 Hz, and my in-room response is flat down to 25 Hz and -3 db at 22 Hz.

    For "musical" sounding bass, a lot of people recommend using sealed subs because their more gradual rolloff at the low end might be considered more natural. In addition, sealed subs have a quicker transient response than the more common ported subs, so they subjectively sound "tighter". However, compared to ported subs, sealed subs have drawbacks in that they are less efficient, their dropoff in bass response begins sooner, and the distortion increases as the sub approaches its lower limit.

    Which sub you should go for is also contingent on the type of room that you have. If your room is 13x19, you will get a fairly substantial gain at the low end due to the boundary effects. With a ported sub, that might have the effect of overemphasizing the bass since ported subs can be more linear in their bass response. The natural dropoff for a sealed sub is similar to the rate at which the room gain boosts the low frequencies, so for a smaller room like yours, a sealed sub like the Rava could very well give you the most even sounding bass. In a larger room, you lose that boost in the low end, and a ported sub might be a better fit.

    Related to the room acoustics, whichever sub you opt for, you need to be aware of how other room effects alter the sound of the bass. In a room of your size, you're very likely to have sound wave interactions that have the net effect of producing big peaks. These peaks will make the bass sound very boomy. This occurred with my sub (my room 13' x 18'), and the sound out of the box was horrible.

    Careful placement can help minimize these issues, but to really address the room effects, you need to use a combination of bass traps and/or parametric equalization. IMO, any subwoofer purchase needs to be accompanied at the very least by a SPL meter and a test disc. This will allow you to measure the in-room response and make note of any abonormalities in the frequency curve. A parametric equalizer allows you to make the necessary corrections once you've done these measurements. Doing this with my sub made a crucial improvement. The boomy sounding bass is now even and full sounding, and much better integrated to the mains than it was out of the box.

  4. #4
    Suspended topspeed's Avatar
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    DefTech makes excellent, fast subs and they are front firing. You might also look into Hsu and SVS, although some designs are downward firing. This Outlaw Audio LFM-1 (designed by HSU) received rave reviews from TAS and is moderatly priced. It too is downward firing sub tho. As with Shokhead, I'm a little confused why don't want a dwf sub, but I'm sure you have your reasons.

    Woochifer has the Adire and loves it, IIRC. That could be the winner.

  5. #5
    IRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woochifer
    As an owner, I'll definitely vouch for the quality of bass that you get with an Adire Rava. At $400, it's an excellent value. It's also different from the other choices that you have listed in that it's a sealed sub. The factory specs indicate a bass extension down to 27 Hz, and my in-room response is flat down to 25 Hz and -3 db at 22 Hz.

    For "musical" sounding bass, a lot of people recommend using sealed subs because their more gradual rolloff at the low end might be considered more natural. In addition, sealed subs have a quicker transient response than the more common ported subs, so they subjectively sound "tighter". However, compared to ported subs, sealed subs have drawbacks in that they are less efficient, their dropoff in bass response begins sooner, and the distortion increases as the sub approaches its lower limit.

    Which sub you should go for is also contingent on the type of room that you have. If your room is 13x19, you will get a fairly substantial gain at the low end due to the boundary effects. With a ported sub, that might have the effect of overemphasizing the bass since ported subs can be more linear in their bass response. The natural dropoff for a sealed sub is similar to the rate at which the room gain boosts the low frequencies, so for a smaller room like yours, a sealed sub like the Rava could very well give you the most even sounding bass. In a larger room, you lose that boost in the low end, and a ported sub might be a better fit.

    Related to the room acoustics, whichever sub you opt for, you need to be aware of how other room effects alter the sound of the bass. In a room of your size, you're very likely to have sound wave interactions that have the net effect of producing big peaks. These peaks will make the bass sound very boomy. This occurred with my sub (my room 13' x 18'), and the sound out of the box was horrible.

    Careful placement can help minimize these issues, but to really address the room effects, you need to use a combination of bass traps and/or parametric equalization. IMO, any subwoofer purchase needs to be accompanied at the very least by a SPL meter and a test disc. This will allow you to measure the in-room response and make note of any abonormalities in the frequency curve. A parametric equalizer allows you to make the necessary corrections once you've done these measurements. Doing this with my sub made a crucial improvement. The boomy sounding bass is now even and full sounding, and much better integrated to the mains than it was out of the box.
    Thanks Wooch,
    That was the kind of response I was hoping for. One thing about my room size I didn't mention before. Although it is about 13x19, one wall (the other 13) is open to a smallish dining room, so in reality the room is bigger, although not what most would consider big. It is not an ideal room for audio period, but what can you do. I was recently a guest at a person's home who had the most incredible room and sound system I have ever been a witness to. His listening room was close to the size of my house (not exaggerating) with somewhere in the nature of 16-24 full sized speakers, 15 power amps, etc. and just one chair. Amazing.

    But in my reality, not the same situation. I will get an SPL level, but there are some drawbacks to using this method, in that the slightest movement can alter the readings, and I have more than one listening/viewing position. I tune according to what I feel sounds best, and not what a $35 instrument tells me I should be hearing. But it will be fun to do both, and see if the two correspond accordingly (ideally they should?!)

    I like the fact that the Adire is a sealed sub, and for all the reasons you mention. A couple of people have mentioned why I don't want a downward firing sub. My original thought (and my local dealer also agreed) was that downfiring onto a wood floor (let alone in a corner) would over-emphasize the bass - which some may find preferable, but others including myself here, don't. My original post mentioned that this is a sub for music first, HT second. The wood floors accentuate bass that is being driven down only 1-2" away. Wouldn't this create a bloated sound perhaps? That is somewhat what I am hearing now, and I am not driving it hard or loud at all. If I had carpets (which before I did), the downward sub is good because it is better dispersed because of the softer surface. Depends on the pile of carpeting too I suppose. I also like the sealed subs because I may have an opportunity to put it against a wall, assuming it sounds good of course, whereas with a rear ported sub like what I have now, you need to pull it away somewhat from the wall, unless you want to overemphasize the bass.

    The other thing that has nothing to do with sound, and I didn't mention it before, is that the Adire looks nice, and my wife has less reservations about my hobby (obsession?) when the equipment looks nice. Maybe that's my cue to get a new pair of Sonus Faber speakers I don't want an ugly sub, or ugly speakers. I think of this hobby as an art, which reproduces art in and of itself.

  6. #6
    BooBs are elitist jerks shokhead's Avatar
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    Get a nice cylinder sub.
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  7. #7
    IRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by shokhead
    Get a nice cylinder sub.
    How much is your SVS? What else did you consider, and where do your place your sub?

  8. #8
    BooBs are elitist jerks shokhead's Avatar
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    $600 and its right back in the corner,a very nice fit.
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  9. #9
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    Thanks Wooch,
    That was the kind of response I was hoping for. One thing about my room size I didn't mention before. Although it is about 13x19, one wall (the other 13) is open to a smallish dining room, so in reality the room is bigger, although not what most would consider big. It is not an ideal room for audio period, but what can you do. I was recently a guest at a person's home who had the most incredible room and sound system I have ever been a witness to. His listening room was close to the size of my house (not exaggerating) with somewhere in the nature of 16-24 full sized speakers, 15 power amps, etc. and just one chair. Amazing.
    Most "normal" household rooms are far from ideal. One thing you need to watch out for with your subwoofer is the bass actually sounding louder in the dining room than the room where you audio system sits. The bass typically sounds louder

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    But in my reality, not the same situation. I will get an SPL level, but there are some drawbacks to using this method, in that the slightest movement can alter the readings, and I have more than one listening/viewing position. I tune according to what I feel sounds best, and not what a $35 instrument tells me I should be hearing. But it will be fun to do both, and see if the two correspond accordingly (ideally they should?!)
    Trying to adjust the level of a sub or matching the surrounds with the mains by ear is an exercise in futility because you can't reliably and consistently judge the levels by ear when that many speakers are involved, or when you're comparing the main levels with the sub level. The whole purpose of the SPL meter is to establish a reliable and replicatable reference point. Once you've done that, THEN you tune according to your preferences. In general, I've found that the SPL meter gives me the quickest and best sounding results, particularly with level matching the surrounds.

    The rule of thumb on SPL meter usage is to point it straight ahead, hold it at a 45 degree angle, and keep it at ear level. To minimize errors, I've also read recommendations that you sit perpendicular to the meter (off to the side, rather than directly behind it). But, if you really want to have the most consistent readings, I would suggest that you mount the meter on a camera tripod.

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    I like the fact that the Adire is a sealed sub, and for all the reasons you mention. A couple of people have mentioned why I don't want a downward firing sub. My original thought (and my local dealer also agreed) was that downfiring onto a wood floor (let alone in a corner) would over-emphasize the bass - which some may find preferable, but others including myself here, don't. My original post mentioned that this is a sub for music first, HT second. The wood floors accentuate bass that is being driven down only 1-2" away. Wouldn't this create a bloated sound perhaps? That is somewhat what I am hearing now, and I am not driving it hard or loud at all. If I had carpets (which before I did), the downward sub is good because it is better dispersed because of the softer surface. Depends on the pile of carpeting too I suppose. I also like the sealed subs because I may have an opportunity to put it against a wall, assuming it sounds good of course, whereas with a rear ported sub like what I have now, you need to pull it away somewhat from the wall, unless you want to overemphasize the bass.
    It doesn't matter if you have a downfiring or forward firing sub, a suspended wood floor can still accentuate the bass waves, as can other resonant objects throughout the room. Corner placement will maximize bass reinforcement regardless of where the driver points.

    Rather than worry about these types of issues, I think the more important part is to familiarize yourself with the acoustical effects that your room creates. Standing waves will create a more bloated sounding bass than wood floors or a downfiring design alone. Placement, bass traps, and parametric equalization are the solutions to that problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    The other thing that has nothing to do with sound, and I didn't mention it before, is that the Adire looks nice, and my wife has less reservations about my hobby (obsession?) when the equipment looks nice. Maybe that's my cue to get a new pair of Sonus Faber speakers I don't want an ugly sub, or ugly speakers. I think of this hobby as an art, which reproduces art in and of itself.
    One thing I will caution you on with the Rava is its fairly large size. The cabinet on the sub is basically an 18" x 18" cube. The veneer that they use is very good, and its attractiveness depends on how you view oak furniture. (If you remove the grille or peer at the back of the unit, it still looks like a DIY project because of the manually-applied black paint)

    If you're interested in something smaller, then you might want to take a look at the Acoustic-Visions MRS-10. Its outer dimensions are less than 14" and it uses a downfiring 10" woofer with a longer stroke than the Shiva driver used in the Rava, so its bass output is actually close to what the Rava delivers. It also has a piano black finish, which along with the smaller size, might be more decor friendly.

    http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~aco...ed/mrs10.shtml

  10. #10
    Sgt. At Arms Worf101's Avatar
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    Red face I've a recommendation...

    For that sized room I'd try the HSU VTF - 2 sub. It's similar in price to those you've mentioned, it's gotten great reviews and I've run one for 3 plus years without a hitch. I couldn't recommend it more highly. And no, I don't work for HSU.

    Da Worfster

  11. #11
    Forum Regular hmmmm's Avatar
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    I'll have a VTF-2 sub for sale as soon as I get my DIY sub finished in the next week or two. It is a great sub. I'm just enjoying making my own speakers now. I love inhaling sawdust!

  12. #12
    IRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmmmm
    I'll have a VTF-2 sub for sale as soon as I get my DIY sub finished in the next week or two. It is a great sub. I'm just enjoying making my own speakers now. I love inhaling sawdust!
    What kind of DIY sub are you making, one from Partexpress, or are you starting from scratch? Let me know how much you want for your HSU. I might be interested.

  13. #13
    BooBs are elitist jerks shokhead's Avatar
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    I guess i've missed them but has anyone ever seen an ad say musical sub? I've only had 2 subs. My Klipsch which was pretty good at both and my SVS which is great at both.
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  14. #14
    Forum Regular hmmmm's Avatar
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    DIY Sub

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    What kind of DIY sub are you making, one from Partexpress, or are you starting from scratch? Let me know how much you want for your HSU. I might be interested.
    Well, I have a wood working shop so I'm building it all from scratch with the help of a lot of people, because I'm an idiot when it comes to speaker building I'm building a 15 inch sealed sub from parts express. Most of the info is on a recent thread in the Tweaks, etc... section. The Hsu I have was from B-Stock because the finish isn't the best on it but you really don't notice if you are a couple feet away from it. It looks perfect from the front and I've only had it about 10 months. I've just always wanted to build my own sub and now will move on to the rest of the speakers in my room. (After I build a bar). I'm still waiting for the amp to come in so It will be another week or 2 before I'd give it up. I'd have to check on the going price. Maybe 250.00 plus shipping? Sorry to all if I shouldn't post this here.

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    IRG
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    Thanks again...

    Quote Originally Posted by Woochifer
    Most "normal" household rooms are far from ideal. One thing you need to watch out for with your subwoofer is the bass actually sounding louder in the dining room than the room where you audio system sits. The bass typically sounds louder



    Trying to adjust the level of a sub or matching the surrounds with the mains by ear is an exercise in futility because you can't reliably and consistently judge the levels by ear when that many speakers are involved, or when you're comparing the main levels with the sub level. The whole purpose of the SPL meter is to establish a reliable and replicatable reference point. Once you've done that, THEN you tune according to your preferences. In general, I've found that the SPL meter gives me the quickest and best sounding results, particularly with level matching the surrounds.

    The rule of thumb on SPL meter usage is to point it straight ahead, hold it at a 45 degree angle, and keep it at ear level. To minimize errors, I've also read recommendations that you sit perpendicular to the meter (off to the side, rather than directly behind it). But, if you really want to have the most consistent readings, I would suggest that you mount the meter on a camera tripod.



    It doesn't matter if you have a downfiring or forward firing sub, a suspended wood floor can still accentuate the bass waves, as can other resonant objects throughout the room. Corner placement will maximize bass reinforcement regardless of where the driver points.

    Rather than worry about these types of issues, I think the more important part is to familiarize yourself with the acoustical effects that your room creates. Standing waves will create a more bloated sounding bass than wood floors or a downfiring design alone. Placement, bass traps, and parametric equalization are the solutions to that problem.



    One thing I will caution you on with the Rava is its fairly large size. The cabinet on the sub is basically an 18" x 18" cube. The veneer that they use is very good, and its attractiveness depends on how you view oak furniture. (If you remove the grille or peer at the back of the unit, it still looks like a DIY project because of the manually-applied black paint)

    If you're interested in something smaller, then you might want to take a look at the Acoustic-Visions MRS-10. Its outer dimensions are less than 14" and it uses a downfiring 10" woofer with a longer stroke than the Shiva driver used in the Rava, so its bass output is actually close to what the Rava delivers. It also has a piano black finish, which along with the smaller size, might be more decor friendly.

    http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~aco...ed/mrs10.shtml
    Is there a preference in SPL meters - analog or digital from Radio Shack? Last time I checked, they only had the digital kinds. I will have to look again and see what is available.

    I have a question on Velodyne subs - I might even post another topic, but do you know if the DPS series and the DLR series are essentially the same? I am comparing both the 12" models, and they seem to have the same specs, magnet size, etc. The biggest difference is that the DLR have a remote for changing the modes, the DPS does not, and the DLR looks a little better. Otherwise they seem the same. Not a lot of reviews, what I have read have been very positive. I've always liked Velodyne, and need to take a closer look here. Also, there is a company online that is selling the DPS-12 for under $400 delivered. I am tempted, but doing all of the research first....

    The Acoustic-Visions sub you mentioned looks pretty good too. It is getting a little pricey for me, but it still seems like a good sub. The Adire is still a contender though, we'll see what develops.

  16. #16
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    Is there a preference in SPL meters - analog or digital from Radio Shack? Last time I checked, they only had the digital kinds. I will have to look again and see what is available.
    The analog SPL meters got discontinued a while ago, and were recently reintroduced. All of the correction charts that you see posted around the internet are typically for the analog model, and the analog model costs $10 less. And I would also go with the analog model because it allows you to eyeball the 0.5 db increments. The digital model only goes up or down in whole decibel increments. If you can't find the analog model in stores, you can mail order it from Radio Shack's website.

    http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=33-4050

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    I have a question on Velodyne subs - I might even post another topic, but do you know if the DPS series and the DLR series are essentially the same? I am comparing both the 12" models, and they seem to have the same specs, magnet size, etc. The biggest difference is that the DLR have a remote for changing the modes, the DPS does not, and the DLR looks a little better. Otherwise they seem the same. Not a lot of reviews, what I have read have been very positive. I've always liked Velodyne, and need to take a closer look here. Also, there is a company online that is selling the DPS-12 for under $400 delivered. I am tempted, but doing all of the research first....
    Don't know enough about Velodyne's lineup to say for sure. I've heard enough Velodyne subs to keep them under consideration if you're looking at ported subs.

    Before you mail order anything, I would check with Velodyne to make sure that online vendor is authorized. Most companies require that you buy from authorized vendors, otherwise they invalidate the warranty.

    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    The Acoustic-Visions sub you mentioned looks pretty good too. It is getting a little pricey for me, but it still seems like a good sub. The Adire is still a contender though, we'll see what develops.
    The Acoustic-Visions sub uses a driver based around Adire's XBR^2 motor design, and from I keep reading, it's a formidable design that can move a lot of air. The 10" driver used on the Acoustic Visions MRS-10 has a longer stroke than the 12" Shiva driver that Adire uses on the Rava, which means that it can create almost as much bass out of a smaller cabinet.

    When I bought my Rava, it was the only sealed sub that I could find that sold for less than $600, so my choice was a lot simpler. Now, you got other sealed options in that price range from B&W, Atlantic Technology, Rocket (mail order), Acoustic Visions, and even Martin Logan. The Rava's still a very nice subwoofer and a great value, you just have a lot more choices out there than even two years ago.

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    The Adire Rava is the best sounding sub I've heard in that price class.Very musical, detailed, and has superb extension. Reminds me a bit of the classic M&K's that gelled so nicely with main speakers.

    I've owned HSU's and actually met the president of Velodyne once at a party - I'll still take that Rava anyday. I've built HT subs around Adire's 15" drivers, and they'd scare the peanuts out of HSU owners. Try a free air resonance of 17.5 baby.

    The original poster is correct that side firing subs are preferable for music tastes than downfiring. The typical vertical cylinder with downward firing sub si fine for replicating explosions and dinosaur fights, but not for transient music response.

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    IRG
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by abstracta
    The Adire Rava is the best sounding sub I've heard in that price class.Very musical, detailed, and has superb extension. Reminds me a bit of the classic M&K's that gelled so nicely with main speakers.

    I've owned HSU's and actually met the president of Velodyne once at a party - I'll still take that Rava anyday. I've built HT subs around Adire's 15" drivers, and they'd scare the peanuts out of HSU owners. Try a free air resonance of 17.5 baby.

    The original poster is correct that side firing subs are preferable for music tastes than downfiring. The typical vertical cylinder with downward firing sub si fine for replicating explosions and dinosaur fights, but not for transient music response.
    I too feel the front forward subs will be more musical than downfiring, although my original feeling was because of the wood floors that several here don't feel like that is true/accurate or makes any sense. It does stand to reason that both will sound good, and even though bass is supposed to be omni-directional, and for HT it probably is, but for music, I think some bass notes (like th string bass I used to play) it is not omni-directional. I can detect and feel where bass is coming from in my room. But as Woochifer has also pointed out, I need to calibrate better (I will promise!) using an spl meter, and I do intend to play around with placement some more. Especially when I get a new sub.

    Thanks for the Adire recommendation as well. Funny thing is, I think this is the sub the wife likes the most because it could look more like an end table than the traditional black box I have now. Also same dimensions as a side table we currently have. It is not in a corner but, sort of close. I am hoping this will be in a good location. It is on a side wall (and almost in line with the front two speakers. But placement will be critical, I realize that.

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    IRG
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    One other question..

    Quote Originally Posted by abstracta
    The Adire Rava is the best sounding sub I've heard in that price class.Very musical, detailed, and has superb extension. Reminds me a bit of the classic M&K's that gelled so nicely with main speakers.

    I've owned HSU's and actually met the president of Velodyne once at a party - I'll still take that Rava anyday. I've built HT subs around Adire's 15" drivers, and they'd scare the peanuts out of HSU owners. Try a free air resonance of 17.5 baby.

    The original poster is correct that side firing subs are preferable for music tastes than downfiring. The typical vertical cylinder with downward firing sub si fine for replicating explosions and dinosaur fights, but not for transient music response.
    Does the Adire sub bypass the subs crossover, so I can use only my receiver crossover? This is what I would prefer. Thanks.

  20. #20
    BooBs are elitist jerks shokhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    Does the Adire sub bypass the subs crossover, so I can use only my receiver crossover? This is what I would prefer. Thanks.
    I think when you use the LFE single cable,that bypasses the subs filter.
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    Quote Originally Posted by shokhead
    I think when you use the LFE single cable,that bypasses the subs filter.
    I think you are right, wasn't sure if that was true for all subs, some, or what. It should be though, as you wouldn't want to run a signal through two crossovers.

  22. #22
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRG
    Does the Adire sub bypass the subs crossover, so I can use only my receiver crossover? This is what I would prefer. Thanks.
    The Rava has a switch that allows you to bypass the crossover on the sub. Even without a bypass switch (or separate "LFE" input, like you see on some other subs [not the Rava]), all you have to do is just turn the sub's crossover to the highest setting if you're using your receiver as the crossover.

  23. #23
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    At $400, you'll be hard press to find an already assembled sub that offers as much promise as the Adire Rava...This is about as close to as you can get to the bang-for-buck in a DIY subwoofer offers without having to DIY (the Rava is basically a pre-fab DIY kit anyway). For just a wee bit money more, you could consider the 12" Titanic MKIII from Parts Express, though I doubt it will look as pretty, nor would you take advantage of its extra output capability...probably not a great value purchase in your case.

    If you want to try the DIY route, you have a few other options available to you for the less money, though...including the the Rava's bigger brother...but you'll need some cutting tools, some veneer, paint, or vinyl laminate to finish the sub, and about 5-10 hours of your time (maybe a bit more if you're inexperienced). It's not hard at all, but if you're a bit intimidated, have a habbit of not finishing things you start, don't have access to tools, or just don't have the spare time, I can't think of a pre-made sub more highly recommended in the DIY circles than the Rava, and at about $400, the price is right.

  24. #24
    IRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by kexodusc
    At $400, you'll be hard press to find an already assembled sub that offers as much promise as the Adire Rava...This is about as close to as you can get to the bang-for-buck in a DIY subwoofer offers without having to DIY (the Rava is basically a pre-fab DIY kit anyway). For just a wee bit money more, you could consider the 12" Titanic MKIII from Parts Express, though I doubt it will look as pretty, nor would you take advantage of its extra output capability...probably not a great value purchase in your case.

    If you want to try the DIY route, you have a few other options available to you for the less money, though...including the the Rava's bigger brother...but you'll need some cutting tools, some veneer, paint, or vinyl laminate to finish the sub, and about 5-10 hours of your time (maybe a bit more if you're inexperienced). It's not hard at all, but if you're a bit intimidated, have a habbit of not finishing things you start, don't have access to tools, or just don't have the spare time, I can't think of a pre-made sub more highly recommended in the DIY circles than the Rava, and at about $400, the price is right.
    Yeah, I think you are mostly right on this. Most of my research seems to find subs that are in some cases, a shockingly lot more money, for what I don't think will be much of an improvement.

    The other sub I am still looking at is the Velodyne DLS-3750/4000R. Both seem to be of good value too, and have a few more tricks in that you can use a remote to choose different settings. Probably not much of a factor, but I like the "night" setting idea. The look of the Adire may actually be prefereable, not sure yet. One thing is for sure, I don't want/need a bigger sub that the Adire. I need to sell my JBL first, then I will go for it soon. Thanks.

  25. #25
    IRG
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    Out of stock

    Quote Originally Posted by kexodusc
    At $400, you'll be hard press to find an already assembled sub that offers as much promise as the Adire Rava...This is about as close to as you can get to the bang-for-buck in a DIY subwoofer offers without having to DIY (the Rava is basically a pre-fab DIY kit anyway). For just a wee bit money more, you could consider the 12" Titanic MKIII from Parts Express, though I doubt it will look as pretty, nor would you take advantage of its extra output capability...probably not a great value purchase in your case.

    If you want to try the DIY route, you have a few other options available to you for the less money, though...including the the Rava's bigger brother...but you'll need some cutting tools, some veneer, paint, or vinyl laminate to finish the sub, and about 5-10 hours of your time (maybe a bit more if you're inexperienced). It's not hard at all, but if you're a bit intimidated, have a habbit of not finishing things you start, don't have access to tools, or just don't have the spare time, I can't think of a pre-made sub more highly recommended in the DIY circles than the Rava, and at about $400, the price is right.
    Kexodusc,
    I heard fro Adire yesterday, and they are out of the Adire Rava subs for at least several "weeks" not sure why. So even if I wanted one, I either have to wait, or order something else. Leaning towards Velodyne now...

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