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  1. #26
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    I reveived the Tukans last week. At first I was quite disapointed, they seemed less "direct" in some sense, the trebble being more withdrawn than the Kans and the bass being slower. I experimented with setup, but it didn't make the some come together, overall it just sounded conjested. On the other hand a lot of new information was apparent, that I hadn't heard with the Kans, more roominformation, and just generally more information about what was going on in the music, but it all seemed irrelevant to me, it all seemed too "HiFi" and conjested in some sense.

    My Nait 2 had been turned off for a week and after one day the sound got a little better, but no transformation. At the same time I think I started to get used to the sound, though. I was looking for something that wasn't in the sound, some better defined contours, holographic sound and so on, but was now slowly giving it up, saying OK, maybe I don't really need those things. I also thought how RGA reported that the Audio Note speakers may sound kind of "wrong" in the beginning, is one was expecting a slimline sound.

    After three days I was in love with the sound! I think the Nait2 must have really needed to warm up thoroughly, because now the bass was not bloomy at all. More importantly: everything came together in a magical way and was overall very dynamic. I can't describe all the aspects of the sound, the thing is simply that I feel it has ALL the desireable qualities that a hifi can possibly have. This is probably because it presents the sound so harmoniously that I relax much better and can much better concentrate on hearing the different qualities of the sound. I truely adminere how well matched Linn has made the different soundaspects of this speaker. I feel NO flaws at all, only, ofcourse, that the sound could be OVERALL better, which I realise I don't need, at least not at the moment.

    I've had Tukans before, actually, but not with original stands and back then I didn't use Naim Naca 5, but instead Linn k20. The Naim cable is indeed much better for Naim amps, and probably the main reason they now sound much more dynamic.

    I will still try to listen to Audio Note speakers, but just wanted to report on the discovery of another "non-slimlime-sound" speaker. Now looking for another hobby
    Erik

  2. #27
    RGA
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    Sounds to me like you're discovering what I have been complaining about with small speakers and small slim line speakers.

    Standmounts have to give up some fullness to bigger speakers for the most part. The AN K does to the AN E just as the B&W N805 does to the N801 as every other brand.

    BUT, you should not have it give up the sense of realism - I don't care how well a speaker digs out information or images - if the dynamics are not full and rich and bass thins out and the sound beams rather than permeates into the room - it's going to sound "techy" and anything and everything but sounding like real life music - though I'm sure they'll have an impeccable resume when it comes to the graph.

    You listen to Yo You Ma's Cello on my speakers and you listen to it on a Paradigm or PSB or other like design and it will become almost instantly clear which sounds like a real cello and which sounds like a pale immitation. It's all in the decay - and to me it's very odd how truly bad some of the above do it - but since 90% of the speakers are like that people lose their bearigs on what it's supposed to sound like. The Cello has a box not just strings - and I want to hear the sound of the box in full glory not a series of strings. It's too hard to explain - if you can hear them one after another in the same room with the same gear you'll know what I'm talking about.

    But to be fair there is a reason the Audio Notes cost more. Naim has always beat to a different drum as well so it is very likely they would not buy into the H/T speaker sound...as it appears Quad as well is trying to do as well.

    Not that any of the ones I mentioned are bad from PSB and Paradigm and even the Linns - they all have a sound people like and a budget that is reasonable. The 100 reamins an excellent rocker and movie speaker and most people buying that brand probably are not using them for primary use of music. Audio Note and Quad among others have a similar philosophy on driver integration and IMO they're right. But again it's only my opinion because they keep selling Thiel - which leaves me totally cold and the press is great - well the North American press is great but then it's always great for all.

  3. #28
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    Smile

    like some of you, i am now a big audionote fan. i've heard the AN-E/SPs from a friend's "all-audionote" system and i haven't heard anything come close. it's simply very lnvolving! he has a digital front end using single-ended triode amplification (8watts) just to give you an idea. except for the speaker and interconnects i've built a very similar system but since i can't afford even entry-level stuff from audionote, all i got are used gear.

    i've recently been offered a pair of AN-J standmounts and according to the owner these are level 2, so i suspect its an SPe model. it still bears the old audionote logo from the pics he sent me so i think its still the chipboard version that look similar to rochlin's pair in enjoythemusic...this one's rosewood though.

    anyway, i browsed through a few AN speakers-related threads in other fora and i noticed that there are concerns about difficulty in maintaining these speakers. i live in a tropical country and it is very likely that the "3-year old" pairs being offered to me probably already needs re-coning. the seller sent me pictures but had the grills on so i couldn't really assess their condition.

    here's my question: anyone among you has had experience re-coning the bass drivers of audionote/snell type speakers? how much would it cost? are there other things that need to be maintained in these speakers?

    i recently purchased a used pair of silverline sonatina (avalon-clone) floorstanders which is also very SET-friendly and the AN-Es are still far superior, in my view so i'm considering selling it in exchange for the AN-Js. .

    one thing i like about the sonatinas is that they seem to be easier to maintain as i suspect that they did not use any paper cones for the two-pairs of 6'' LPG bass drivers. do you think selling these for another used, more 'high-maintenance" speaker like the AN-J is a good idea?

    finally, the guy selling it is offering it to me at less than half a brand new pair which is about the same price i got the sonatinas.

    thanks!

  4. #29
    RGA
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    I am looking at upgrading to the AN J SPe as well. I checked into this exact same issue. Peter Qvortrup told me the following: (I live in Nanaimo British Columbia - similar to New Zealand):

    "Where you live you should expect 15 - 20 years of life, in hot and humid parts of the world it can be as little as 5 - 7 years, if left in direct sunlight even less.

    The foam surround itself is cheap, about US$ 5.00, it takes about an hour to change, so I would say somewhere between $ 100.00 and $ 150.00, depending on what the technician charges an hour."



    The whole bass driver would not need to be replaced - just the foam surround. Paper may sound less durable but that is just what the other manufacturers would like you to think. Even Kevlar has issues with life expectancy from what one dealer said - and my rubber surrounds on my wharfeldales are beginning to fray...nothing last forever. The AN drivers are pretty low excursion - ie; they barely move when being driven.

    My attitude to this is that I would not mind paying for the upkeep of something with the performance of a Ferrari - it's certainly better than a Yugo. And there is no gaurantee that some more durable material in a lesser speaker will last longer. Audio note is up-front about using foam as opposed to ruber. For instance Peter only uses rubber on the K because he is forced to. Because the driver is different from the other speakers being an acoustic suspension he can only attain rubber for it - he would prefer foam.

    The AN J SPe is level 3(uses Russian Birch Ply). It doesn't matter really because all their speakers are upgradable. Rochlin's review was of the AN J SPx which is currently sold as $7850.00 US.

    Their new models go way up there http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html

  5. #30
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    Hi RGA!

    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    I am looking at upgrading to the AN J SPe as well. I checked into this exact same issue. Peter Qvortrup told me the following: (I live in Nanaimo British Columbia - similar to New Zealand):

    "Where you live you should expect 15 - 20 years of life, in hot and humid parts of the world it can be as little as 5 - 7 years, if left in direct sunlight even less.

    The foam surround itself is cheap, about US$ 5.00, it takes about an hour to change, so I would say somewhere between $ 100.00 and $ 150.00, depending on what the technician charges an hour."
    sounds reasonable to me by technician, does this mean an authorized technician? too bad our local AN distributor is a plane ride away

    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    The whole bass driver would not need to be replaced - just the foam surround. Paper may sound less durable but that is just what the other manufacturers would like you to think. Even Kevlar has issues with life expectancy from what one dealer said - and my rubber surrounds on my wharfeldales are beginning to fray...nothing last forever. The AN drivers are pretty low excursion - ie; they barely move when being driven.

    My attitude to this is that I would not mind paying for the upkeep of something with the performance of a Ferrari - it's certainly better than a Yugo. And there is no gaurantee that some more durable material in a lesser speaker will last longer. Audio note is up-front about using foam as opposed to ruber. For instance Peter only uses rubber on the K because he is forced to. Because the driver is different from the other speakers being an acoustic suspension he can only attain rubber for it - he would prefer foam.
    great! btw, has peter Q mentioned anything on "preventive maintenance" of the drivers like applying "armour all" or any similar liquid?

    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    The AN J SPe is level 3(uses Russian Birch Ply). It doesn't matter really because all their speakers are upgradable. Rochlin's review was of the AN J SPx which is currently sold as $7850.00 US.

    Their new models go way up there http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html
    would you know what the level 2 model is for the AN-Js? what difference do you hear b/w a copper wired and the silver-wired AN-Js based on your listening tests? what do you think of the option of rewiring the internal cable from copper to silver?

    is the $7,850 the one with the external crossover already? i read that even has a higher sensitivity rating. too bad i'm way out of that league

    Thanks!

  6. #31
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    Benil

    You have to remember that Audio Note is also a KIT maker. The speaker's warranty is 5 years - once out of wrranty I doubt it would matter who you had do it. It's not rocket science - though doing the upgrade - you would probably want AN or a dealer to have it done. For re-foaming anyone can do that for you. Peter was guessing that that is what it would cost - a place here would do it for about $50-$65.00 including the foam - you would want to do both speakers to match the wear I would presume.

    Preventative maintenance? No he did not mention that - presumably if you can keep the room not ovelry hot and humid you would be better off - air conditioning perhaps?
    No cleaning agents should be used on speakers to my knowledge.

    I have not heard two models in a line side by side. How much difference there would be? I don't know. Frankly probably not a lot - if it's JUST the wiring. When you move up the line they use Alnico magnets, better caps, tighter tolerances, and an upgrade crossover - those i would think make a bigger difference. The Basic K with copper is only $300.00 less than the K/SPe. If I had bought new models I would probably go for the base speaker.

    Peter said they were going to start the K models at level 3 which is the K/SPe - but they may have changed their mind.

    The Bottom of the line J is called the "AN-J/LX - $2,999/pr US in your choice of our 10 standard veneers. A number of premium finishes, including a piano gloss finish available in 5 colors are somewhat more. The "LX" model uses Audio Note's best copper speaker cable internally, which is a copper analog of our very finest silver wire.

    Then the "AN-J/SPe - $3,575/pr. (standard veneers) - uses the same drivers, cabinet and crossover components as the LX, but is wired with our mid-range silver speaker cable, which brings some additional refinement as well as authority in the bass and lower mids and more fine detail in the treble. Premium veneers, clear piano lacquer or piano gloss over a solid color are available at additional cost."

    I would personally buy the bottom model - if you feel the need to upgrade later you can - if you don't then you saved ~$600.00US. I would also think that unless the rest of your cables are silver then upgrading to silver would be a waste. In other words unless you have an all Audio Note system paying extra for the silver is a waste. Remember Audio Note's level system is all about having a complete levelled Audio Note system. Every componant is at a similar level - so you would buy all level 3 componants - level 3 amp, speaker wires, cd player, dac turntable etc. Give or take one level difference.

    This is presuming you think the cabling makes a difference at all. But, if a cable does make a difference, hypothetically, then it would make sense for all the cabling from source to speaker to be the same. Personally I would buy the base model - I simply am getting a deal on the SPe because that is all that is offerred here and the SE which I can't afford anyway.

    The next models are as follows in US Funds:

    AN-J/Spx - $7,850 in any of our 10 standard veneers. Premium veneers, clear piano lacquer or piano gloss over a solid color are somewhat more. Cabling is silver again, but two models up the range from the SPe. The crossover utilizes solid Audio Note silver inductors, Black Gate caps and Audio Note copper foil caps.

    AN-J/SE Silver - $14,350 in any of our 18 veneers. Clear piano lacquer or piano gloss over a solid color are somewhat more. The driver voice coils are silver wired. Cabling is silver again, but absolute top of the range this time. The crossover utilizes solid Audio Note silver inductors, Black Gate caps and Audio Note silver foil caps.

    AN-J/SEC Silver - $19,450 in any of our 18 veneers. Clear piano lacquer or piano gloss over a solid color are somewhat more. In addition to all the upgrades in the SE Silver, the bass/midrange drivers are ALNICO at this level."

    Honestly I can't see the upgraded versions being a lot better than the base models - laws of diminishing returns and the mark-up is much higher because they would sell so few of them. Plus you're paying a premium for the finishes and expensive caps. But I would have to hear the basic E/D or E/XL versus the E SEC to be sure. http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html

  7. #32
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    hi RGA,

    Quote Originally Posted by RGA

    I have not heard two models in a line side by side. How much difference there would be? I don't know. Frankly probably not a lot - if it's JUST the wiring. When you move up the line they use Alnico magnets, better caps, tighter tolerances, and an upgrade crossover - those i would think make a bigger difference. The Basic K with copper is only $300.00 less than the K/SPe. If I had bought new models I would probably go for the base speaker.
    are the drivers from the kits matched as carefully as the built units? i read from the UK site that this makes a big difference.


    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    I would personally buy the bottom model - if you feel the need to upgrade later you can - if you don't then you saved ~$600.00US. I would also think that unless the rest of your cables are silver then upgrading to silver would be a waste. In other words unless you have an all Audio Note system paying extra for the silver is a waste. Remember Audio Note's level system is all about having a complete levelled Audio Note system. Every componant is at a similar level - so you would buy all level 3 componants - level 3 amp, speaker wires, cd player, dac turntable etc. Give or take one level difference.


    This is presuming you think the cabling makes a difference at all. But, if a cable does make a difference, hypothetically, then it would make sense for all the cabling from source to speaker to be the same. Personally I would buy the base model - I simply am getting a deal on the SPe because that is all that is offerred here and the SE which I can't afford anyway.

    Honestly I can't see the upgraded versions being a lot better than the base models - laws of diminishing returns and the mark-up is much higher because they would sell so few of them. Plus you're paying a premium for the finishes and expensive caps. But I would have to hear the basic E/D or E/XL versus the E SEC to be sure. http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html
    i was lucky enough to have purchased some used AN level 3 stuff like my speaker cables (SPx) and my amp (conqueror) at 1/3 their list price. the used preamp i got is only level 2 (m2), i think. anyway, i actually have 2 choices for my speaker upgrade. one is an AN-J/SPe (i think) which i've seen a picture of and another which the owner claims is an AN-E/SPx that i haven't seen.

    here's a link to my 2-channel system:
    benil's

    at first, i found the silver cables to be really expensive but i was convinced when we did an A/B comparison using various classical, jazz and pop titles. i actually considered using some of my cables to replace the internal wiring of my current speakers because the difference with just the external cables is very audible. grain, for one, is substantially reduced.


    THANKS AGAIN!

  8. #33
    RGA
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    Benil
    I don't the think the kits are matched.

    If the SPx is newer it is one of the higher models and that's the one to get. If it's an older one like Stephen Rochlin's (enjoythemusic.com) then it is still a higher model but back then the speakers were chipboard instead of Plywood. How important that is is up to you. http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html

    Mr. 92135011 asked on the Audioasylum forum

    "Is there any reason why the Audio Note speaker kit recommends pure birch ply with speakers rather than any other plywoods? Is there a particular advantage of having pure birch ply rather than plywood with first few layers birch then the rest of another wood? "

    One reply was
    "No internal voids and far better overall material quality.
    It really is the only thing, other than solid hardwoods or Corian type materials, that should be used for quality speaker cabinets.
    Good luck with them" http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/spe...es/162407.html

    Actually, if you want the best answer to these questions why not start a thread on Audioasylum and ask Peter Qvortrup directly - He frequents the place - as do other Audio Note folks like Jack Gribble and DR Cope. http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/speakers/bbs.html

  9. #34
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    The kits are definately matched.

    http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/spe...es/157755.html

    Actually I emailed Peter personally and he told me the the cabinet is best built from ALL baltic birch ply. That is, even the sides are birch rather than MDF used in most of their models. He said that from the sound point of view it was the best sounding. Of course, baltic birch ply is more expensive than normal birch ply. From Brian Smith of Audionotekits.com, he said that 2 5x5 pieces is enough to construct 2 cabinets. If in doubt, check his website

    http://audionotekits.espyderweb.net/an_e.html

    It has pictures of the AN/E being cut to the correct sizes. All this is done by a carpenter though rather than Brian. These pictures should give you an idea of what skill level you need to build such a kit. If in doubt, Brian also sells the precut pieces and sends them flat-packed. Still very heavy though.

    Now regarding the baltic birch ply thing, another reply said that the density of the northern grown birch is better than that of its north american counterparts. Not sure if thats true or not though. Another advantage of baltic birch is that it maintains decent looks from the side even though its a plywood. Even without veneer, the cabinet looks good at the edges. Bad quality filler plywoods end up having holes of bad knots at the sides causing some really bad cosmetic issues

  10. #35
    RGA
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    Good info on the kit - That is way out of my league - it would cost me the difference to buy all the equipment needed to build them LOL
    Makes me wish I was the son of a carpenter rather than an accountant.

    Yes Peter told me that about the matching and I forgot. It does save considerable money to be sure. The basic E is selling for $4k US

    It's too bad you were not here about 5 months ago because Sounhounds had two AN E/D models for $2000.00Cdn. Whih is basically the same as the XL - but the wood wasn't quite as good.

    This is likely another reason the speakers have a relatively high cost. Back in the 70s wood was cheaper - today speakers are just built from cheap crap and real quality wood is much more expensive. Try getting an Oak desk knew and you're in the poorhouse so you get some stuff from Walmart(don't get it wet or its dead).

    I'm going to try going up to Victoria on Wednesday and I will try and compare the E, J and K and the new Paradigm Sigs if they're there.

    Gotta go and see when the stupid busses run.

  11. #36
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    Well another option is to pay someone to do it for you.
    I got connections with one guy who will cut out and assemble the birch ply for almost nothing. Birch ply itself costs bout 70-80 cdn for a 5x5 piece. The speaker requires 2, so Im guessing that including the bracing and that, he will charge me bout 150. Also got another friend who's old man specialises in wood finishing. I'm hoping he can do veneering for me - maybe a nice cherry or african rosewood or something else exotic. He also laquers, so possibly he can help me out with that too. Thats gonna look good. Very good. Now I'm just trying to see if it would be at all worth it to buy the high efficiency drivers rather than the regular ones.

  12. #37
    RGA
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    Well another option is to pay someone to do it for you.
    I got connections with one guy who will cut out and assemble the birch ply for almost nothing. Birch ply itself costs bout 70-80 cdn for a 5x5 piece. The speaker requires 2, so Im guessing that including the bracing and that, he will charge me bout 150. Also got another friend who's old man specialises in wood finishing. I'm hoping he can do veneering for me - maybe a nice cherry or african rosewood or something else exotic. He also laquers, so possibly he can help me out with that too. Thats gonna look good. Very good. Now I'm just trying to see if it would be at all worth it to buy the high efficiency drivers rather than the regular ones.
    Well this sounds like a cool project for you. Maybe in a few years I would give somehting like this a go - move the J(If I like em and get em) to the rear and build tthree E's across the front - awesome home theater too - and one you have the specs and everything making a third one is no big deal.

    I say get the best drivers you can afford and the best wiring. Does Audio Note supply the Sheep's Wool in the kit? They seemed rather anal that it had to be sheep's wool positioned just so and would take a kit builder a bit of trial and error - but since you built it you'd know which is kinda cool as well.

    I'm jealous - sure beats plain old black - that Poplar Burl looks quite neat as well - maybe there is a way to get a cherry wood version of that - might be different. When and if you do decide to go that route post some pictures of em.

  13. #38
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    The wool wadding is included in the kits as I have seen at hificollective.
    Actually, I've read that burls are by far the most difficult to use as veneer. Because of its unique pattern, its hard to match the pieces between the corners. If my buddy's dad can do veneering, I'll take a serious look at the different appearances. Problem is that exotic veneers cost a lot. A sheet of good veneer was over 100 cdn the last time i checked a wood website. And that wasnt even the most expensive of veneers. But for a hundred or two more, the appearance is worth it. I've always been a wood person. Love the look of natural wood and grain. Vinyl or plastics can never replace the intricate patterns of wood.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    Benil
    If the SPx is newer it is one of the higher models and that's the one to get. If it's an older one like Stephen Rochlin's (enjoythemusic.com) then it is still a higher model but back then the speakers were chipboard instead of Plywood. How important that is is up to you. http://www.triodeandco.com/Prod_Loudspeakers.html

    Mr. 92135011 asked on the Audioasylum forum
    i think its an old AN-E/SPx which is being offered to me not an AN-J. the seller said the foam has already melted and he had only improvised to "make it sound like it did before the foam gave in". i might get a chance to see them next week. i'll try to take pictures and show them to you and let you judge if they are still worth anything

    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    Actually, if you want the best answer to these questions why not start a thread on Audioasylum and ask Peter Qvortrup directly - He frequents the place - as do other Audio Note folks like Jack Gribble and DR Cope. http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/speakers/bbs.html
    am a bit shy to ask around in AA. i find some of the replies too frank and too rude. guys here seem to be more careful with their replies. fact is am not in the market for any brand new AN stuff but i'm serious about getting pre-owned gear.

    btw, here's a pic of my pre-owned AN stuff and other gear:



    cheers!

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    Dude...Make it if you can. Top notch stuff for a fraction the cost.
    The new preamp kit is going to be released in a few months according to Brian Smith, and it will look very similar to the M3. Parts are fully upgradable to resemble the higher level preamps more and more. Kit1, although ugly, will soon accept higher quality OPT and also fully upgradable to sound like the upper level power amps. The architecture is already no feedback, directly heated, single ended triode. With better parts, it can easily equal the higher level manufactured products with lesser looks and lesser price. You can also get speaker kit3, high efficiency silver drivers with calibrated xovers and all the fixins. Then you can make a pretty high level speaker. Of course, you cant make the xovers have silver too because they dont sell them. You could change to a silver caps and that..but then you would lose the matched property. Anyways all in short, all kit items are also very high quality. Give them a try if you have the time and ability (the friends who do)

  16. #41
    RGA
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    Quote Originally Posted by benil
    i think its an old AN-E/SPx which is being offered to me not an AN-J. the seller said the foam has already melted and he had only improvised to "make it sound like it did before the foam gave in". i might get a chance to see them next week. i'll try to take pictures and show them to you and let you judge if they are still worth anything

    am a bit shy to ask around in AA. i find some of the replies too frank and too rude. guys here seem to be more careful with their replies. fact is am not in the market for any brand new AN stuff but i'm serious about getting pre-owned gear.
    I would simply ask Peter in the thread title directly the low down on the E/SPx.

    If the box is in good shape hten it might simply be a matter of replacing the drivers - which may not be all that expensive. They are from SEAS and ViFA so they won't be dirt cheap either - but overall could be well woth it. The main difference between the E and J from what I can tell is more bass in the E(but not a lot more based off of the measurements) and that the E is suited to a larger room while the J to small/medium rooms. Won't know for sure until I listen to the J and E together to see.

  17. #42
    RGA
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    Dude...Make it if you can. Top notch stuff for a fraction the cost.
    The new preamp kit is going to be released in a few months according to Brian Smith, and it will look very similar to the M3. Parts are fully upgradable to resemble the higher level preamps more and more. Kit1, although ugly, will soon accept higher quality OPT and also fully upgradable to sound like the upper level power amps. The architecture is already no feedback, directly heated, single ended triode. With better parts, it can easily equal the higher level manufactured products with lesser looks and lesser price. You can also get speaker kit3, high efficiency silver drivers with calibrated xovers and all the fixins. Then you can make a pretty high level speaker. Of course, you cant make the xovers have silver too because they dont sell them. You could change to a silver caps and that..but then you would lose the matched property. Anyways all in short, all kit items are also very high quality. Give them a try if you have the time and ability (the friends who do)
    When I'm out there I'll ask the guys at soundhounds how much they would charge to build the kit for me - now there's a little wrinkle to add to the mix. They are a complete shop - they do tube modifications - doubt it would be hard for them to build a speaker since they also repair speakers. The preamp I would consider because a soldering iron is all I would likely need.

    The AN E is simply too large for my room - or built for a bigger room. Plus in 2 years I'll be leaving the country to Japan and leaving my stereo here for 2 years possibly 3 to pay down my debt. When i come back and get settled and have money and space(ie; not an apartment) I can consider building my own gear.

    In fact the only reason the J has any interest to me is because of the price/trade-up I am able to get.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011

    http://audionotekits.espyderweb.net/an_e.html

    It has pictures of the AN/E being cut to the correct sizes. All this is done by a carpenter though rather than Brian. These pictures should give you an idea of what skill level you need to build such a kit. If in doubt, Brian also sells the precut pieces and sends them flat-packed. Still very heavy though.
    hi 92135011,

    how much do they sell the pre-cut pieces of the enclosure?
    thanks!

  19. #44
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    Benil, baltic birch ply is not cheap in itself. I'm thinking that it would cost no less than 60 bux for a 5x5 piece. Canadian funds of course. Add in the taxes and that goes to 70 bux. Takes bout 2 5x5 according to brian so that makes that 140. Then you calculate all the carpentry charges and screwups, company overhead, so I'm thinking that it would cost them more than 300-400 for both speakers. Of course this is only a guess.
    Then you would need them sent to you, which will cost a pretty penny since the wood will be pretty heavy unless you live in toronto.

    RGA, I know soundhounds makes the kit1 amp ready to use, but they do not sell the preamps. That can only be ordered from Brian Smith. The picture you see on the website of the preamp kit looks a lot like the M2. Their new chassis will look a lot like the M3 according to Brian. He says that it will be used to accomodate more transformers and so on. He also sells upgrade packs for both the amps and preamps with DAC upgrades on the way. (btw, the DAC is being revamped to look like the higher level DACs to accomodate more transformers again) However, the upgrade packs seem to be more expensive than buying the parts on your own. Take caution.
    If soundhounds can do it, tell them to use all pure birch ply rather than MDF sides. Peter said in an email that birch ply is better in the sound point of view (but more expensive). The plans for the speaker cabinet indicate to use MDF sides and ply or chipboard front and back.

  20. #45
    RGA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vindbjerg
    I've had wonderfull results using a Naim cd3.5, an Audio Innovation 300 and a pair of Snell E/III in an aprox. 30 m2 large living room. Unfortunately I now need something that will fit in a much smaller room, more like 10-12 m2, I'd say. I've heard good things about the Snell K, but also some say it's a little dull. Then Audio Note AN/K spring to mind, but my knowledge on these speakers is limited. As a matter of fact, I have an actual offer at hand: one pair of black AN/K's, further specified "K", and bought in '98 or '99. Now I've seen people praise different editions of this speaker, but nowhere have I found info about this specific model. Could anyone help me sort out this mess of models and specs? And oh - the price it was offered at is 500 Euros, which equals... around 600 US$ I think. Would you say that's a fair price?

    with best regards
    Erik
    Berlin
    Be careful on the used prices here as well. Just because the new model goes for more you need to look at what the original model went for in its year. The basic AN/K/B back in 1996(according to my one and only issue of Hi-fi Choice) sold for 500 British Pounds new, the SP went for 700 - both were a bit different then than now as to wiring and crossovers. My old Arcam Delta 290 sold there then for 480GBP and was selling here for $1400.00Cdn ~$950US.

    So buying a used K/B for 500.00 Euros would not be a very good deal unless these speakers are magically free from depreciation - and that is not likely. The thing that does help the re-sale though is by continually selling year in and year out the same speaker and increasing and increasing the price - people will look to the new model and see the price of the used model and think it's a bargoon.

    This helps the seller a bit to off-set the lack of name recognition - if the name gets more household - you might even be able to make money on em. Interesting they would be selling it for 500 Euros - probably what he paid 10 years ago - of course money had more buying power then than now but still.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    Be careful on the used prices here as well. Just because the new model goes for more you need to look at what the original model went for in its year. The basic AN/K/B back in 1996(according to my one and only issue of Hi-fi Choice) sold for 500 British Pounds new, the SP went for 700 - both were a bit different then than now as to wiring and crossovers. My old Arcam Delta 290 sold there then for 480GBP and was selling here for $1400.00Cdn ~$950US.

    So buying a used K/B for 500.00 Euros would not be a very good deal unless these speakers are magically free from depreciation - and that is not likely. The thing that does help the re-sale though is by continually selling year in and year out the same speaker and increasing and increasing the price - people will look to the new model and see the price of the used model and think it's a bargoon.

    This helps the seller a bit to off-set the lack of name recognition - if the name gets more household - you might even be able to make money on em. Interesting they would be selling it for 500 Euros - probably what he paid 10 years ago - of course money had more buying power then than now but still.
    interesting...will these "lower price-tag" old models be traceable by their serial numbers?
    since i''m getting used stuff, i might end up not getting a bargain after all?

    on the other hand, rochlin's scorecard for the lexus and an-j/SPx enjoythemusic review seems to imply that the older chipboard model even sounded better than the AN-E except for the "sub-bass" category. of course, that an-j may not be as old as the 500euro models.

    is it also possible that audionote has already made a far bigger name and reputation now vs. 10 years ago allowing them to demand higher prices on essentially the same products?

    cheers!

  22. #47
    RGA
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    Quote Originally Posted by benil
    interesting...will these "lower price-tag" old models be traceable by their serial numbers?
    since i''m getting used stuff, i might end up not getting a bargain after all?

    on the other hand, rochlin's scorecard for the lexus and an-j/SPx enjoythemusic review seems to imply that the older chipboard model even sounded better than the AN-E except for the "sub-bass" category. of course, that an-j may not be as old as the 500euro models.

    is it also possible that audionote has already made a far bigger name and reputation now vs. 10 years ago allowing them to demand higher prices on essentially the same products?

    cheers!
    My impression from the Hi-fi Choice edition is tht the lower levels all used copper - they used to sell AN D cables which were Rec'd in theissue for what that's worth. The J/B was 999 GBP circa 1996 then there was an SP(not listed in the issue) and likely Rochlin's SPx.

    To be fair Audio Note had levels from Zero to Five. Hi-fi HCoice only listed the first 2 of each - and today's start in level 2-3 depending which dealer. The SPe is level 3. The K jumps from that to level 5 in the SE and stops. Presumably Silver Sec is level 6+

    Basically the wood quality is better than Rocklin's model. His SPx and the new SPx are not the same - and you're right considering all accounts his older model wasn't outclassed at all. I'm of the opinion, and it means little since I've not compared 2 levels of a K or J etc that if the box and drivers are the same the differences will be relatively subtle - granted the crossover and cap improvements. Is the better grade of silver critical ? possibly but for that to make sense the entire chain would need to be silver and compared to a system with the entire chain in copper - mixing and matching cables would be impossible to test.

    When I asked soundhounds about the AN E D versus the AN J SPe they immediately said the J was better - so maybe the crossover wiring and wood quality does matter if they're being honest.

    I'd probably have to ask Q what all the differences are. I know the NEW models versus last years(mine) are now having their boxes built in a different country. Denmark or something - and have way more finishing options.

    Basically they're all tweaked up hot-rodded version of a good platform - most of it can all be upgraded later.

    Well I'm heading out Friday and we'll see if it's worth it. Rochlin's assessment of the bass is an interesting one - the NEW J speaker is rated by Audio Note at 25hz -6db which should be almost no different to the human ear to the E at 18hz -6db. But Hi-fi Choice measured the J at 20hz -3db which is better than the vast majority of subwoofers. And Hi-Fi Choice does measure at a cosniderable distance - so perhaps Q changed the port or something. Placement is critical as I have found with the K/SPe and my speaker should be easiest to place.

    I also find it interesting that Peter Q says the speaker SHOULD be placed in corners yet Hi-Fi Choice and some others feel they should be free-standing - so that gives the impression they're actually easy-going with placement. It's odd because the K always sound timbrally correct no matter where they go but for imaging and ultimate bass depth corners vs free standing and distance from walls all play a bigger role - and have some trade-offs.

  23. #48
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    if you are going to test the E anyways, why not try out the new high efficiency woofer while you are at it. See if there is a difference between the high efficiency and normal efficiency in sound, seeing the crossovers are slightly different and drivers are different.

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    here are pics of the AN-J/SPe pair being offered to me.

    can't really tell if they're still any good from these...i'm nevertheless posting them.
    i also asked the owner if he could send some pics with the grill off. i'll post them
    just in case he still sends more.

    thanks guys!

    an-j1


    an-j2

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    Benil, baltic birch ply is not cheap in itself. I'm thinking that it would cost no less than 60 bux for a 5x5 piece. Canadian funds of course. Add in the taxes and that goes to 70 bux. Takes bout 2 5x5 according to brian so that makes that 140. Then you calculate all the carpentry charges and screwups, company overhead, so I'm thinking that it would cost them more than 300-400 for both speakers. Of course this is only a guess.
    Then you would need them sent to you, which will cost a pretty penny since the wood will be pretty heavy unless you live in toronto.
    as RGA said, the built units are so much more expensive these days than they were 5 to 10 years back that it seems to make sense to get the kits instead. based on your estimates, however, it might be more rational to just source the materials of the cabinet/ enclosure locally. i don't think we have birch ply but should i go the DIY/custom-built route i'll probably experiment with inexpensive materials first since this will be my first project anyway. if i do decide to get the pre-owned units, i would at least be able to use them as 'guides' for my experiments. btw, labor for custom-building is fairly inexpensive out here and the local furniture industry has been gaining price-competitiveness the last 5 years...so i still probably can afford to make mistakes with the enclosure experiments and still end up spending less than 1/2 the cost of brand new, factory-built stuff

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