Who Has an SPL Calibrated System?

[magictooth]

I'd like to take a poll of who has an SPL calibrated system. If you do, would it be something that you would recommend to other home theatre enthusiasts?

I have calibrated my system with the AVIA disc and an SPL meter. I would recommend for anybody who is serious about HT to do the same.

[Slosh]

I don't get some people. I mean, they spend literally thousands of dollars on their gear (not to mention all of the money on discs) and don't calibrate it??? Stupid. Not calibrating your video display is equally as dumb.

I even calibrated my stereo-only system in my home office to offset room acoustics (even a channel imbalance difference of one or two dBs makes a difference I can appreciate). Why not get all of your money's worth out of your system? Make adjustments for preference after calibration if you feel it necessary.

[poneal]

I feel properly calibrating my system with the trusty old radio shack SPL meter and the AVIA DVD has increased my listening and moving watching experience. Plus its down right fun to mess around with this stuff. It makes me feel like I have accomplished something. I haven't taken a survey on how many use this useful tool but I bet its only about the top 10% of people on earth. I highly recommend it to all.

[depressed]

This is a good topic.I just recently bought my home theater system, and honestly, I didn't even know about the difference proper calibration can make. I visited a couple of audio sites, talked to salesmen in the high-end stores and realized that it can make a difference. Unfortunately, my wallet can't please my ears, so I bought a "cheap" HTIB. Now I have two questions:
1. Would buying the SPL meter and calibration make sense for a cheap HTIB? 2.Is the YPAO from Yamaha the same thing?

Thanks!

[Jim Clark]

I'm with bruther Slosh. Anyone who spends the time reading these boards and who considers this a hobby is spinning wheels without a simple meter and test disc.


On a slightly different matter-the poll is flawed. If you can only vote once (right?) you can't poll that your system is calibrated AND recomend it as essential. This will lead to skewed results.

jc

[bikehikefish]

depressed - yes definitely calibrate your HTIB with an SPL meter

YPAO does this and more. In addition to setting the level and delay for each speaker, it equalizes each speaker; i.e. flattens the curve. This may or may not be to your likeing. Since it changes the the relative volumes for different frequencies, it may change the way your speakers sound. I saw a review recently where the writer complained the highs were too "forward" after using YPAO.

I haven't heard a system with YPAO, but it sounds like a great idea.

[AZHT]

You can vote for more than one choice on the poll.

[depressed]

depressed - yes definitely calibrate your HTIB with an SPL meter

YPAO does this and more. In addition to setting the level and delay for each speaker, it equalizes each speaker; i.e. flattens the curve. This may or may not be to your likeing. Since it changes the the relative volumes for different frequencies, it may change the way your speakers sound. I saw a review recently where the writer complained the highs were too "forward" after using YPAO.

I haven't heard a system with YPAO, but it sounds like a great idea.

Thanks! I had my doubts about calibrating my "cheap" HTIB. After re-reviewing my speaker's and receviers specs and comparing it to others, I found out that my system is pretty good, especially the receiver (HTR-5640) I found a detailed calibration guide on the net. Trying to save some money so I would appreciate if you could tell me if this would be sufficient: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

[agtpunx40]

I got the analoge radio shack spl meter for like 30 or 35 buck.

[JSE]

I got the analoge radio shack spl meter for like 30 or 35 buck.

Only a FREAKIN IDIOT LOSER would not calibrate his system!


JSE

[kelsci]

Only a FREAKIN IDIOT LOSER would not calibrate his system!


JSE

Well JSE, I must be a FREAKIN IDIOT LOSER. I did not want to get into this since I think it is up to the individual to choose his or her method of calibration. I did calibrate with what I consider the PAIN IN THE ASS RS analogue meter and I did not like the results against my own method of calibration. The question I place here is WHAT IS A TRUE BALANCED SYSTEM.

I noted over the years of reading reports on the testing of stereo receivers, int. amps. and separates that there was almost always a slight difference in output between two channels tested mainly because even though the parts used to make each channel were identicical in label, certain parts can vary in their measurements. In those test reports, I might see one channel measured at 100.4 watts and another at 100.8 watts. At that point of testing the volume control offers 0 resistance(the volume control is fully clockwise). But volume controls have a habit of not containing a consistant differential as resistance is added meaning turning the volume down. So for example, at 75% down on the volume, your watts could possibly read 25.1 and 25.2. Sounds like it should be balanced. Nope! It would only be balanced if the channels kept a .4 difference in watts through the entire spectrum of lowering the volume control. You would need a test tone and vtvm meter to make sure that occurred. You would also need the elmination of the balance control. In its place should either be concentric twin volume controls that are round which use to be found on units from Lafayette Electronics years ago or slider volume controls for each channel that used to be found on older Radio Shack equipment. It would be better still to have a circuit that would tell you when your electrical balance was maintained. Go into any high end store and where they have separates with a power amp with a meter display and volume controls on the channels, I think you would find that the only time the power amp delivered proper sound was only when the volume controls were fully clockwise(opened). Deviate from that and you find on different settings that you think are balanced that the sound from the power amp becomes raunchy. When I calibrate my receiver, I do something "close" to what I have described here. It is my feeling at that point that the unit begins to sound more like something one hears in a theater. KELSCI

[poneal]

I agree that JSE's comment was not well thought out, but you seem to agree on the basic premise that calibrating a system is important. I know musicians that calibrate by ear, I know professional installers that use a multitude of testing equipment to calibrate their systems, I know people that don't even bother calibrating their system, but I think we all agree that calibrating a system can improve the sound quality of a system.

[kelsci]

I agree that JSE's comment was not well thought out, but you seem to agree on the basic premise that calibrating a system is important. I know musicians that calibrate by ear, I know professional installers that use a multitude of testing equipment to calibrate their systems, I know people that don't even bother calibrating their system, but I think we all agree that calibrating a system can improve the sound quality of a system.

Poneal; absolutely it is necessary to perform some kind of calibration of ones system. I happen to have my own calibration method which really is done by ear. This allows me to use my receiver at other points certain on the volume control setting. I have seem to find that at least in two instances. I will write about the Sherwood which has D.D. 5.1. The Sherwood maxes out on the settings I determined at 76 out of 80. I can still maintain the same surround field at 68, 60 and 52. Note there is a difference of 8. When I had tried the RS meter at the 75 db set-up, if I went down from any setting deviating from 75 db, I could not maintain a balanced soundfield at any other number. When I set up my system, I leave the left-right mains at 0. I leave the surrounds disconnected and begin to increase and/or decrease the center channel until I feel that an excellent three channel image has been attained and that the dialogue sounds clear. Then I adjust the surround speakers from those settings to a setting that satisfies my interpretation of a surround field.I then adjust the master volume up and down to a setting I feel maintains the whole surround-stereo field. AT this time, I do not know just how good the YPAO and MCACC systems are and as such I cannot comment on them. They may be great and they may be "fools gold" too. I would really like to calibrate the left and right speakers(sm or lg) to the correct voltage difference I described in my previous post. I feel however, that I am fairly close in doing this with my calibration method. That in turn makes the sound more movie "theaterish" in my home theater system IMHO. I also always do one other thing. During the calibration phase of the center and surrounds, I always go from minus to plus on the individual volume adjustments. Not doing so IMHO will give you a phase anomaly. I have an idea why this occurs but that is another story maybe for another time. So I am a home theather "radical". what can I say..... KELSCI

[JSE]

Well JSE, I must be a FREAKIN IDIOT LOSER. I did not want to get into this since I think it is up to the individual to choose his or her method of calibration. I did calibrate with what I consider the PAIN IN THE ASS RS analogue meter and I did not like the results against my own method of calibration. The question I place here is WHAT IS A TRUE BALANCED SYSTEM.

I noted over the years of reading reports on the testing of stereo receivers, int. amps. and separates that there was almost always a slight difference in output between two channels tested mainly because even though the parts used to make each channel were identicical in label, certain parts can vary in their measurements. In those test reports, I might see one channel measured at 100.4 watts and another at 100.8 watts. At that point of testing the volume control offers 0 resistance(the volume control is fully clockwise). But volume controls have a habit of not containing a consistant differential as resistance is added meaning turning the volume down. So for example, at 75% down on the volume, your watts could possibly read 25.1 and 25.2. Sounds like it should be balanced. Nope! It would only be balanced if the channels kept a .4 difference in watts through the entire spectrum of lowering the volume control. You would need a test tone and vtvm meter to make sure that occurred. You would also need the elmination of the balance control. In its place should either be concentric twin volume controls that are round which use to be found on units from Lafayette Electronics years ago or slider volume controls for each channel that used to be found on older Radio Shack equipment. It would be better still to have a circuit that would tell you when your electrical balance was maintained. Go into any high end store and where they have separates with a power amp with a meter display and volume controls on the channels, I think you would find that the only time the power amp delivered proper sound was only when the volume controls were fully clockwise(opened). Deviate from that and you find on different settings that you think are balanced that the sound from the power amp becomes raunchy. When I calibrate my receiver, I do something "close" to what I have described here. It is my feeling at that point that the unit begins to sound more like something one hears in a theater. KELSCI

Hey Kelsci,

I was being a little sarcastic. I don't really think that. I was just giving a little jab to some folks. Definitely not you. Truth be told, as long as someone's happy with their system, that's all that counts.

Have a great one!

JSE

[kelsci]

Hey Kelsci,

I was being a little sarcastic. I don't really think that. I was just giving a little jab to some folks. Definitely not you. Truth be told, as long as someone's happy with their system, that's all that counts.

Have a great one!

JSE

JSE; Eh... What's a little sarcasm once in a while. I am satisfied with my methods of calibration. I wish I had volume controls that were concentric or sliders as mentioned in my post. I will not ever give bulldinky to my fellow compatriots on this board. Things that I have run across have come from experimentation that I have performed over many years.
JSE; have a great one too. Kelsci.

[Grandpaw]

At this time there have been 199 views of this post and 34 votes placed. Two of these are mine because I checked yes I calibrated and yes I would recommend calibration. If it is that much of an undertaking just to click a vote is it any wonder many people will not go through the effort to get a meter and disc so they can calibrate their system?

I do realize some people just don't participate in polls and that some do not have the opportunity to vote do to the fact they may not be a member, and I do realize there are other reasons also, but I still think this might give a small hint as to why some folks haven't taken the time to calibrate their systems and find out if it makes a difference for themselves.

[3db]

I have a RS SPL meter (digital) but I do not have the Avia test dvd . I have been using the THX optimizer on DVDs such as Finding Nemo etc.. to calibrate my system. Does this still count as being calibrated?

[filecat13]

I have a RS SPL meter (digital) but I do not have the Avia test dvd . I have been using the THX optimizer on DVDs such as Finding Nemo etc.. to calibrate my system. Does this still count as being calibrated?

Good question, and here's a partial answer, based on my 7.1 set up.

I have both the RS analog SPL meter and a dual display, RT digital spectrum comparator/analyzer. Initially, I used the test tones from my Fosgate Audionics FAP T1 and the RS meter to calibrate the system, and things improved significantly.

When I got the DVE (Digital Video Essentials) disc, I used both the SPL meter and the comparator/analyzer to redial the system. I changed a couple of settings by +1db.

When I noticed the THX calibration on Nemo, I again pulled out the SPL meter to do a quick check. For this I used THX specs (higher reference db) for calibration, and I changed the one setting by -1db.

I also checked the video signal and made some moderate changes from DVE, and the picutre looked better IMO.

So, yes, I think you can use the THX optimizer set up to do a useful calibration.

[Keith from Canada]

Anyone who knows anything about HT will have the audio and video portion of their system calibrated.

[Woochifer]

I'm with the others, I don't see how anyone can make a multithousand dollar investment in a HT system and then just go with the factory default settings or try setting the levels by ear alone.

Before I got my SPL meter and test disc, I was constantly tweaking with the settings. Once I got the SPL meter and test disc, I just set it and forget it. The ears alone cannot detect the magnitude of the adjustments that need to be made for five or seven speakers. In addition, whenever furniture gets moved around the room, the settings change, but again not on order of magnitude where it's easy to shift the settings by ear. Basically, you know something's out of balance when you hear it, and using the SPL meter simply means that you can quickly and accurately make the changes, so you can enjoy your system rather than spend a lot of time trying to figure out what's wrong and how to remedy it.

I also have my speakers aligned to the ITU reference placement which specifies 30 degrees off-center for the mains and 110 degrees off-center for the surrounds, and that too was a case where I was changing things up constantly, yet once I put them into that reference alignment, it sounded right and I haven't had to change it since then.

As far as the YPAO is concerned, I've read that the auto calibration will give you erroneous readings if your room has a lot of ambient noise. I think in that case, depending on the type of test tone used, it still might be better to manually calibrate using a SPL meter and test disc because the tone generators on receivers typically use wideband test tones (don't know the type of tone that the YPAO uses), which are more prone to erroneous readings than the narrow band tones used on the Avia, DVE, and S&V discs. However, the parametric equalization function on the YPAO is something that cannot be duplicated by any external processor, and IMO that's really the area where calibration functions like the YPAO make a huge difference.

[landfill]

After reading many of these posts, I decided that I should calibrate my system. So off to radioshack.com to order an analogue SPL meter. But, they were sold out... Oh well, no problem, I'll search the nearby Radioshack locations for one. After all, I live in Manhattan and there are five of them within walking distance. Nope, sorry... all five are sold out... Anyone have an idea where I could pick one of these things up? Preferably under $40. And what's this Avia DVD I keep hearing about?

[JSE]

After reading many of these posts, I decided that I should calibrate my system. So off to radioshack.com to order an analogue SPL meter. But, they were sold out... Oh well, no problem, I'll search the nearby Radioshack locations for one. After all, I live in Manhattan and there are five of them within walking distance. Nope, sorry... all five are sold out... Anyone have an idea where I could pick one of these things up? Preferably under $40. And what's this Avia DVD I keep hearing about?

Might check Ebay. They seem to show up there fairly often. They are kind of hit and miss with being in stock since the new analog model came out a few months back. The local store by my house always seems to have them but I have not checked lately.

The Avia DVD can be found at Amazon.com if you want to go the internet route. Some audio stores have them as well.

JSE

[Woochifer]

After reading many of these posts, I decided that I should calibrate my system. So off to radioshack.com to order an analogue SPL meter. But, they were sold out... Oh well, no problem, I'll search the nearby Radioshack locations for one. After all, I live in Manhattan and there are five of them within walking distance. Nope, sorry... all five are sold out... Anyone have an idea where I could pick one of these things up? Preferably under $40. And what's this Avia DVD I keep hearing about?

Another option would be the Craftsman SPL meter that Sears sells. If you don't have a Sears store nearby, you could order one from their website.

As for the Avia DVD, it's a setup disc that help you set your sound levels and the video settings. If you've never used one before, you might want to start with the Sound & Vision Home Theater Setup disc. It's made by the same company that issues the Avia disc, but it's more at a beginner level, includes some good tutorials, is readily available at Borders, and costs about half what the more advanced Avia disc costs. Plus, the audio tests are more up to date because it includes both DTS and 6.1 tests, whereas the Avia disc dates back to 1999 and doesn't include those tests. IMO, a calibration disc of some kind is a necessity, and even though it helps with your audio settings, in my experience the biggest improvement is in the video. The Avia, S&V, and Digital Video Essential discs are the ones that people refer to most often. The S&V disc the simplest one, while the Avia and DVE discs are more advanced with more tests available.