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  1. #26
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    Would you rather drive cross country with a tire that has a can of fix-o-flat in it or on 4 new tires? Sure, you may never have a problem with that tire, but if you had a choice, which would you pick?
    Spoken like a true middle class person who only has to open a
    checkbook to buy anything.
    If you use a can of "fix flat" you can get that tire plugged for fifteen
    bucks or less. QUITE often the price of four new tires is out of reach,
    so its not even an issue.
    As much as I ENJOY THIS HOBBY, there is always something
    more pressing. In an age when gas for work is 160 a month,[I]plus[/I
    the gas to get around, with groceries costing a small fortune,
    if something is working I tend to not mess with it.
    THERE are targets of opportunity, like 29 bucks for a hundred dollar tuner, an EMO AMP FOR 250 BUCKS(haven't seen it that
    cheap again).
    RUNNING my sub on a receiver channel worked fine, didn't bother
    me at all, didn't hurt the sub, not the first time I have done it.
    And if I had not had a plate amp fall into my lap, I would be probably still be set up that way.
    BEING type two diabetic I need pills just to protect my kidneys.
    Pills and test strips, hundreds of dollars a month, visits to the
    doctor every three months. You can't get kidneys at RADIO
    SHACK.
    I DO HAVE a meager HT "budget" but you have to prioritize,
    and if something works you don't mess with it.
    I SEE where the non technical minded might be more nervous
    than someone who built his own stereo for a class project once,
    but it didn't bother me a bit.
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  2. #27
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis View Post
    Spoken like a true middle class person who only has to open a
    checkbook to buy anything.
    If you use a can of "fix flat" you can get that tire plugged for fifteen
    bucks or less. QUITE often the price of four new tires is out of reach,
    so its not even an issue.
    As much as I ENJOY THIS HOBBY, there is always something
    more pressing. In an age when gas for work is 160 a month,[I]plus[/I
    the gas to get around, with groceries costing a small fortune,
    if something is working I tend to not mess with it.
    THERE are targets of opportunity, like 29 bucks for a hundred dollar tuner, an EMO AMP FOR 250 BUCKS(haven't seen it that
    cheap again).
    RUNNING my sub on a receiver channel worked fine, didn't bother
    me at all, didn't hurt the sub, not the first time I have done it.
    And if I had not had a plate amp fall into my lap, I would be probably still be set up that way.
    BEING type two diabetic I need pills just to protect my kidneys.
    Pills and test strips, hundreds of dollars a month, visits to the
    doctor every three months. You can't get kidneys at RADIO
    SHACK.
    I DO HAVE a meager HT "budget" but you have to prioritize,
    and if something works you don't mess with it.
    I SEE where the non technical minded might be more nervous
    than someone who built his own stereo for a class project once,
    but it didn't bother me a bit.
    Don't assume that my budget is any better than yours. The OP asked what was better, not what was cheapest.

    By the way, I am also type two. I also spent the last 6 weeks in and out of hospitals for my kidneys. None of which has anything to do with the fact that a receiver amp should be the very LAST option taken unless you have no options.

    As for non technical, I do have a degree in Science and worked 12 years in the T.J. Watson Research Center.
    Last edited by GMichael; 06-01-2011 at 05:23 PM.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  3. #28
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    Don't assume that my budget is any better than yours. The OP asked what was better, not what was cheapest.

    By the way, I am also type two. I also spent the last 6 weeks in and out of hospitals for my kidneys. None of which has anything to do with the fact that a receiver amp should be the very LAST option taken unless you have no options.

    As for non technical, I do have a degree in Science and worked 12 years in the T.J. Watson Research Center.
    I cannot believe he says you are non technical, but yet he makes this statement

    THE truth is that a sub is probably never going to need even
    the paltry 125watts put out by my receiver channel


    Is this person out of his mind? Yep. In a VERY small room, 125 watts MIGHT be enough. In a larger room, no way in hell is that enough. The lower you go in bass frequencies, the more power you need. The larger the room, the more power you need. When you combine these two facts together, you need a lot of power so you don't end up over driving the amp - or even pushing the driver into compression.

    In a small 12X15x10ft room I use a single H-PAS sub with a 300 watt amp. On several movies(The Haunted, War of the Worlds, and Saving Private Ryan comes to mind) the red lamp on the amp has lit up signaling that the amp is approaching its maximum power. This is with a 70db average dialog level which will produce 100db peaks at the maximum digital level of 0db. So you see, a 125 watt amp would be overloaded at that level easily.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
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    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
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  4. #29
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Terrence the Terrible View Post
    I cannot believe he says you are non technical, but yet he makes this statement

    THE truth is that a sub is probably never going to need even
    the paltry 125watts put out by my receiver channel


    Is this person out of his mind? Yep. In a VERY small room, 125 watts MIGHT be enough. In a larger room, no way in hell is that enough. The lower you go in bass frequencies, the more power you need. The larger the room, the more power you need. When you combine these two facts together, you need a lot of power so you don't end up over driving the amp - or even pushing the driver into compression.

    In a small 12X15x10ft room I use a single H-PAS sub with a 300 watt amp. On several movies(The Haunted, War of the Worlds, and Saving Private Ryan comes to mind) the red lamp on the amp has lit up signaling that the amp is approaching its maximum power. This is with a 70db average dialog level which will produce 100db peaks at the maximum digital level of 0db. So you see, a 125 watt amp would be overloaded at that level easily.
    I think he just says stuff like that to stir people up. I should have known better.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  5. #30
    Phila combat zone JoeE SP9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    Next step is a BFD. For under $100 it's a huge addition to any sub.
    I just bought a Behringer DSP1124 for $99 from B&H Photo with free shipping. I ordered it Tuesday May 24 about 1PM. It arrived the next day via UPS.

    It's a 12 band per channel parametric equalizer with a built in 24/46 ADC/DAC (DSP). I chose this over the the DEQ2496 which has 20 parametric bands per channel a 24/96 ADC/DAC (DSP) and is ~$60 more expensive. For my purposes 12 bands per channel are more than enough for a device that will never see a signal higher than 100Hz. Currently the DSP1124 is connected to the low pass out of my crossover and from there to the bridged Crown's that drive my subs.

    Now that I have two 1U rack mount devices I pulled a Walnut Crown DC300 case I wasn't using out of the closet and bolted the DSP112 and my CX2310 (crossover) into it. They leave a 2U space open in the case. So, maybe I'll look around for a 2U amplifier for a center channel speaker that I've never gotten around to buying. The case is sitting on a black painted piece of spiked MDF between my front speakers. The amps for the speakers and subs are behind or next to their respective speakers.

    To use a BFD properly you need a calibrated measurement microphone and REW (Room Equalization Wizzard). REW is available for free at www.hometheatershack.com . You have to become a member (free) to get it. Behringer and Parts Express have calibration microphones available for less than $100. Both need a microphone preamp that provides phantom power for the condenser microphone element. If you have a Rat Shack SLM analog or digital it will also work. HT Shack has the correction factors for all the Rat Shack SLM's analog and digital.

    24/46 is not a slip of the finger. That's what it says in the manual.
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    Front: Magnepan 1.7, DBX 223SX, 2 modified Dynaco MK3's, 2, 12" DIY TL subs (Pass El-Pipe-O) 2 bridged Crown XLS-402
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  6. #31
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeE SP9 View Post
    I just bought a Behringer DSP1124 for $99 from B&H Photo with free shipping. I ordered it Tuesday May 24 about 1PM. It arrived the next day via UPS.

    It's a 12 band per channel parametric equalizer with a built in 24/46 ADC/DAC (DSP). I chose this over the the DEQ2496 which has 20 parametric bands per channel a 24/96 ADC/DAC (DSP) and is ~$60 more expensive. For my purposes 12 bands per channel are more than enough for a device that will never see a signal higher than 100Hz. Currently the DSP1124 is connected to the low pass out of my crossover and from there to the bridged Crown's that drive my subs.

    Now that I have two 1U rack mount devices I pulled a Walnut Crown DC300 case I wasn't using out of the closet and bolted the DSP112 and my CX2310 (crossover) into it. They leave a 2U space open in the case. So, maybe I'll look around for a 2U amplifier for a center channel speaker that I've never gotten around to buying. The case is sitting on a black painted piece of spiked MDF between my front speakers. The amps for the speakers and subs are behind or next to their respective speakers.

    To use a BFD properly you need a calibrated measurement microphone and REW (Room Equalization Wizzard). REW is available for free at www.hometheatershack.com . You have to become a member (free) to get it. Behringer and Parts Express have calibration microphones available for less than $100. Both need a microphone preamp that provides phantom power for the condenser microphone element. If you have a Rat Shack SLM analog or digital it will also work. HT Shack has the correction factors for all the Rat Shack SLM's analog and digital.

    24/46 is not a slip of the finger. That's what it says in the manual.
    I'm only using 5 of the bands and probably could have gotten away with 3. I bought mine from a friend over at AH for $60. It was just sitting around not getting used at his house.
    It did a great job of taming a peek I had at 50.
    I have it connected to my LFE out and then on to an EP4000 amp (with the fan mod).
    It can be set up manually if you have the patients. I didn’t have a laptop at the time, but wifey has one now. It may be time for some more tweeking.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  7. #32
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    Don't assume that my budget is any better than yours. The OP asked what was better, not what was cheapest.

    By the way, I am also type two. I also spent the last 6 weeks in and out of hospitals for my kidneys. None of which has anything to do with the fact that a receiver amp should be the very LAST option taken unless you have no options.

    As for non technical, I do have a degree in Science and worked 12 years in the T.J. Watson Research Center.
    So you oughta know that it is no big deal.
    AND that is not the "last" option, a clock radio is.
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    sub asw2500
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    sharp Aquos BLU player
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    Samsung SACD/DVDA player
    emotiva upa-2 two channel amp

  8. #33
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis View Post
    So you oughta know that it is no big deal.
    AND that is not the "last" option, a clock radio is.
    I don't think that a clock radio will make a very good sub amp, but go for it.
    I have a baby monitor you could try if you like.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  9. #34
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Terrence the Terrible View Post
    I cannot believe he says you are non technical, but yet he makes this statement

    THE truth is that a sub is probably never going to need even
    the paltry 125watts put out by my receiver channel


    Is this person out of his mind? Yep. In a VERY small room, 125 watts MIGHT be enough. In a larger room, no way in hell is that enough. The lower you go in bass frequencies, the more power you need. The larger the room, the more power you need. When you combine these two facts together, you need a lot of power so you don't end up over driving the amp - or even pushing the driver into compression.

    In a small 12X15x10ft room I use a single H-PAS sub with a 300 watt amp. On several movies(The Haunted, War of the Worlds, and Saving Private Ryan comes to mind) the red lamp on the amp has lit up signaling that the amp is approaching its maximum power. This is with a 70db average dialog level which will produce 100db peaks at the maximum digital level of 0db. So you see, a 125 watt amp would be overloaded at that level easily.
    ACTUALLY the lower the freq the less power is required.
    THE REASON subs require so much power is some formula,
    forgot its name, but you need 17 times the normal power
    just to get the sound outta the box.
    SO YOU have the natural hardheadedness of the deaf.
    Explains a lot.
    WHEN I had the 600w BASH plate amp it was nice, excepting
    the few times the cops paid me a visit, but the current 130w
    plate amp works fine in my limited environment.
    My neighbors are certainly happier.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    LG 42", integra 6.9, B&W 602s2, CC6 center, dm305rears, b&w
    sub asw2500
    Panny DVDA player
    sharp Aquos BLU player
    pronto remote, technics antique direct drive TT
    Samsung SACD/DVDA player
    emotiva upa-2 two channel amp

  10. #35
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    I don't think that a clock radio will make a very good sub amp, but go for it.
    I have a baby monitor you could try if you like.

    It takes four or five in parallel for those to work, and sleeping
    with four single moms wasn't worth it.
    LG 42", integra 6.9, B&W 602s2, CC6 center, dm305rears, b&w
    sub asw2500
    Panny DVDA player
    sharp Aquos BLU player
    pronto remote, technics antique direct drive TT
    Samsung SACD/DVDA player
    emotiva upa-2 two channel amp

  11. #36
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis View Post
    It takes four or five in parallel for those to work, and sleeping
    with four single moms wasn't worth it.
    Sleeping? You were sleeping? That's not the way to do it.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  12. #37
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis View Post
    ACTUALLY the lower the freq the less power is required.
    THE REASON subs require so much power is some formula,
    forgot its name, but you need 17 times the normal power
    just to get the sound outta the box.
    Do you realize idiot you just contradicted yourself? The longer the acoustical wavelength, the more power it takes to get it in the room. They need more power because long wavelengths require a lot of power to push low frequencies through the air. That is why small bookshelf speakers can get away with 100 watts a channel, and most subwoofer require 200 watts at the minimum. And you know more than me? LOLOLOL

    SO YOU have the natural hardheadedness of the deaf.
    Explains a lot.
    WHEN I had the 600w BASH plate amp it was nice, excepting
    the few times the cops paid me a visit, but the current 130w
    plate amp works fine in my limited environment.
    My neighbors are certainly happier.
    Here are some links that point out what an idiot you are.

    http://www.beoworld.org/article_view.asp?id=44

    http://15subwoofer.info/2010/subwoof...ers-explained/

    Note these words in the second link

    Subwoofers require more power than the main speakers because they have to push more air, which explains why subwoofers frequently have their own power source.

    So much for you less power statement. The more you say you know more than I do, the more stupid you look.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  13. #38
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeE SP9 View Post
    I just bought a Behringer DSP1124 for $99 from B&H Photo with free shipping. I ordered it Tuesday May 24 about 1PM. It arrived the next day via UPS.

    It's a 12 band per channel parametric equalizer with a built in 24/46 ADC/DAC (DSP). I chose this over the the DEQ2496 which has 20 parametric bands per channel a 24/96 ADC/DAC (DSP) and is ~$60 more expensive. For my purposes 12 bands per channel are more than enough for a device that will never see a signal higher than 100Hz. Currently the DSP1124 is connected to the low pass out of my crossover and from there to the bridged Crown's that drive my subs.

    Now that I have two 1U rack mount devices I pulled a Walnut Crown DC300 case I wasn't using out of the closet and bolted the DSP112 and my CX2310 (crossover) into it. They leave a 2U space open in the case. So, maybe I'll look around for a 2U amplifier for a center channel speaker that I've never gotten around to buying. The case is sitting on a black painted piece of spiked MDF between my front speakers. The amps for the speakers and subs are behind or next to their respective speakers.

    To use a BFD properly you need a calibrated measurement microphone and REW (Room Equalization Wizzard). REW is available for free at www.hometheatershack.com . You have to become a member (free) to get it. Behringer and Parts Express have calibration microphones available for less than $100. Both need a microphone preamp that provides phantom power for the condenser microphone element. If you have a Rat Shack SLM analog or digital it will also work. HT Shack has the correction factors for all the Rat Shack SLM's analog and digital.

    24/46 is not a slip of the finger. That's what it says in the manual.
    My BFD settings are based on manual measurement. The Home Theater Shack site still has the instructions posted on how to do the frequency measurements and set up the PEQ filters manually. They also had an Excel spreadsheet that graphs the before and after measurements, as well as the correction values for the Radio Shack analog SPL meter. If it's no longer on the Home Theater Shack site, let me know if you want me to e-mail it.

    I tried using the REW application with my analog meter, and it identified three filters that I should apply. I wound up getting some bizarre sounding results, so I reverted back to my original settings (I currently use 9 EQ filters). A calibrated mic might give some better results.
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  14. #39
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woochifer View Post
    My BFD settings are based on manual measurement. The Home Theater Shack site still has the instructions posted on how to do the frequency measurements and set up the PEQ filters manually. They also had an Excel spreadsheet that graphs the before and after measurements, as well as the correction values for the Radio Shack analog SPL meter. If it's no longer on the Home Theater Shack site, let me know if you want me to e-mail it.

    I tried using the REW application with my analog meter, and it identified three filters that I should apply. I wound up getting some bizarre sounding results, so I reverted back to my original settings (I currently use 9 EQ filters). A calibrated mic might give some better results.
    9?!

    My my. Aren't you the master tweeker. How long did that take you to do manually?
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  15. #40
    Forum Regular Florian's Avatar
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    I dont meant to ruin your wonderfull and structured conversation but i have a set of four subwoofers. And they are both passive and active.One of them has the amplifier attached to the subwoofer frame and the other set has the amp detached from the subwoofer frame. Both work wonderful and both sets are using the "sealed acoustic suspension" enclousure. One set uses 2 Krell Reference 200 amplifiers and the other set uses a older JVC MD 3030 stereo block. I use a Velodyne SMS -1 to flatten the inroom response and because one set if subwoofers uses a high efficency Focal driver ît makes no difference if you use the smaller 55lbs JVC or the 253lbs Krell References.

    The most important topic was not even discussed in this thread, room acoustics and the integraton with the meain speakers. It does not matter if the amplifier is attached to the subwoofer or not....

    Cheers
    Lots of music but not enough time for it all

  16. #41
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Florian View Post

    The most important topic was not even discussed in this thread, room acoustics and the integraton with the meain speakers. It does not matter if the amplifier is attached to the subwoofer or not....

    Cheers
    I think you missed this comment on post #7

    I do not think either passive or active subs offer any advantage over the other. I use both types, and get great sound from both types. Calibration and room placement are more important than active or passive.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
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    THX Style Baffle wall

  17. #42
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Florian View Post
    I dont meant to ruin your wonderfull and structured conversation but i have a set of four subwoofers. And they are both passive and active.One of them has the amplifier attached to the subwoofer frame and the other set has the amp detached from the subwoofer frame. Both work wonderful and both sets are using the "sealed acoustic suspension" enclousure. One set uses 2 Krell Reference 200 amplifiers and the other set uses a older JVC MD 3030 stereo block. I use a Velodyne SMS -1 to flatten the inroom response and because one set if subwoofers uses a high efficency Focal driver ît makes no difference if you use the smaller 55lbs JVC or the 253lbs Krell References.

    The most important topic was not even discussed in this thread, room acoustics and the integraton with the meain speakers. It does not matter if the amplifier is attached to the subwoofer or not....

    Cheers
    You are right. The BFD should help, but we really didn't get into room acoustics. Just that either passive or active can work well.

    Good to see you around Flo.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  18. #43
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Terrence the Terrible View Post
    I think you missed this comment on post #7

    I do not think either passive or active subs offer any advantage over the other. I use both types, and get great sound from both types. Calibration and room placement are more important than active or passive.
    I guess that some of "us" did then.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  19. #44
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    I guess that some of "us" did then.
    You missed it too?? (smacks GM on the nose with his Ipad2). Sorry GM, I gave up the morning paper for a Ipad2. I hope you can get your nose fixed!!
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  20. #45
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
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    Cool

    SOME people on this site have too much time on their hands.
    A SUB is not that difficult to set up.
    AND if you don't like the fact that the higher the freq the more power it requires(notice fones keep going up in freq, NO COINKIDINK
    that the higher the freq, the more power required.
    You don't like rudimentary physics, don't yell at me, become
    Amish.
    AGAIN, there is some rule that states that it takes 17 times
    the regular power to get low freqs outta a sub, can't remember it but will look for it.
    MEANWHILE you might notice that tweeters break all of the time,
    subs hardly ever, ever wonder why that is? AND WHY HIGHER
    (more energetic) freqs are the ones that break glass.
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  21. #46
    Forum Regular Florian's Avatar
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    Just out of curiosity because i was absent for so long (Thanks for the Welcome GM), is Pixelthis a troll with a massive post count?
    Lots of music but not enough time for it all

  22. #47
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis View Post
    SOME people on this site have too much time on their hands.
    A SUB is not that difficult to set up.
    Easy to setup, but not as easy to set it up right. Obviously, you've never heard an EQ'd subwoofer before.

    Quote Originally Posted by pixelthis
    AND if you don't like the fact that the higher the freq the more power it requires(notice fones keep going up in freq, NO COINKIDINK
    So, if that's the case, then why does NO biamped active monitor use a more powerful amp for the tweeter than the woofer? Gosh, maybe you should design your own active speakers, given that you know more than every other speaker manufacturer does.
    Wooch's Home Theater 2.0 (Pics)
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    Subwoofer Setup and Parametric EQ Results *Dead Link*

  23. #48
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael View Post
    9?!

    My my. Aren't you the master tweeker. How long did that take you to do manually?
    Setting up 4 PEQ filters would address the most pressing room-induced problems with my sub, and I could probably live with that. But, the BFD allows for 12 channel adjustments, so why not take advantage of that, especially since the PEQ allows me to really target a specific frequency as widely or narrowly as I want? With 9 filters, I have the frequency curve close to flat all the way down to 25 Hz at my seated position. I've done some other experimenting with frequency curves, since the BFD allows you to store multiple profiles.

    First time it took me about 90 minutes to do the initial measurement, calculate the filter settings, adjust the BFD settings, and then remeasure the output and make the final adjustments. I repeat the process any time I move the sub or make a major rearrangement to the room. Nowadays, I can compete the process in less than an hour.
    Wooch's Home Theater 2.0 (Pics)
    Panasonic VIERA TH-C50FD18 50" 1080p
    Paradigm Reference Studio 40, CC, and 20 v.2
    Adire Audio Rava (EQ: Behringer Feedback Destroyer DSP1124)
    Yamaha RX-A1030
    Dual CS5000 (Ortofon OM30 Super)
    Sony UBP-X800
    Sony Playstation 3 (MediaLink OS X Server)
    Sony ES SCD-C2000ES
    JVC HR-S3912U
    Directv HR44 and WVB
    Logitech Harmony 700
    iPhone 5s/iPad 3
    Linksys WES610



    The Neverending DVD/BD Collection

    Subwoofer Setup and Parametric EQ Results *Dead Link*

  24. #49
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Florian View Post
    Just out of curiosity because i was absent for so long (Thanks for the Welcome GM), is Pixelthis a troll with a massive post count?
    Correction Flo, he is a OLD troll with a massive post count. And by the way, good to see ya around!
    Sir Terrence

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  25. #50
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    (GM gets up from his pool of blood and shoots a dirty look at the Big T. Then he turns to Flo.)

    Hey Flo. Pixy just likes to stir things up to see who boils over first. He tends to spout off about things that he probably knows are wrong just to get a rise out of us. The Big T is usually the first to call BS.

    (GM rubs the blood on his face off on T’s sleeve)
    You get that round Mr. but you may want to grow eyes in the back of your head.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

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