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  1. #1
    Forum Regular Woochifer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRunner6
    Thanks guys for the kind comments.

    Bobsticks, the model progression is 80U (same as my Costco model), 85U, 800U and 850U. Only the 800U and 850U have a mini D-sub input. I'm computer challenged but I presume that is the same as an RGB input.

    Woochifer, thanks much for your comments and advice. You might have concluded correctly that I presumed I would be able to improve the PQ with calibration, either Avias or ISF. Thanks for your comments on the THX screens. However, my primary concern right now was to determine if I wanted to stay with 768p or go with 1080p. That is why I concentrated on the perceived clarity and definition. I spent a lot of time looking at certain scenes like facial close-ups, beards and scenes with text, etc that were great for evaluating sharpness in the PQ. I presumed (maybe incorrectly) that this would not be significantly improved in the calibration process. I have a big question for you and any one else with your knowledge: Will the calibration with an Avia disc or pro ISF calibration, as well as impoving color, contrast, etc., also improve the perceived definition of the display?

    Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.
    The calibration process is about getting all of the settings optimized so that they are tuned to the same specs that the mastering engineers use at their production desks. In general, TVs leave the factory set to a "torch mode" that has the brightness and sharpness dialed way up. This is not for optimal picture quality, but rather for standing out in a retail showroom or brightly lit big box store. (Generally, only high end stores and occasional midlevel stores calibrate their displays for the most realistic comparisons)

    Different manufacturers use different default settings (and these settings will even vary between models from the same manufacturer), which is why calibration is so essential. It basically optimizes the picture to the same standard benchmarks that the studios use.

    Calibrating your TV won't reveal any new details or increase the resolution. It will simply give you the optimal color balances and let your TV deliver ITS best possible picture quality. The first time I calibrated my TV from the factory defaults, it was literally like watching a brand new TV -- the picture quality improvement was that dramatic.

    The difference between using a calibration disc and going with an ISF calibration will also depend on the set. Some manufacturers allow for more detailed control over the picture adjustments (Pioneer Elite is by far the best in this regard), while others are shipped with settings that allow for the standard controls to come pretty close to benchmark performance (I recall that Hitachi and/or Toshiba was supposedly pretty good). Other TVs benefit greatly from ISF calibration because a lot of the necessary adjustments are buried within the service menus (need special codes to enter the service menus, and you invalidate your warranty if you mess around with them).

    I recall other posters mentioning that the older Panasonic models looked good after using a calibration disc, but were stunning after an ISF calibration. On the AVS Forum, I've seen other comments mentioning that the newer Panasonic's factory settings are now closer to the benchmark standards than before. No idea how much the ISF calibration improves the picture compared to their older models.

    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRunner 6
    When I was at Costco yesterday the 768p was back down to $999 and the 1080p was down even farther to $1399 with in store reduction with that coupon. I hope maybe that it will be down another $100-$200 before or after Christmas. It will then be a no-brainer for me.

    I have been financially challenged for years and have developed by necessity into a big bang for the buck guy (I've been a blue collar.worker for the last several decades and my wife cannot work). I think there is a line of diminishing returns on HT equipment but that line is significantly above my financial level. I would move up a lot if I had the funds. However, I'm very pleased with the performance I realized given the money output. It makes it more fun and rewarding for me when I have to put lots of research and bird dogging into each purchase to get the best price/performance results.

    RR6
    If you're happy with your TV and financially challenged, I would stick with what you got. The ~$1,300 that you would spend upgrading the display from 768p to 1080p would probably be better served upgrading the rest of your video chain to HD, if you haven't done so already. 1080p isn't going away, and prices will continue to decline. In the meantime, maximizing what you already have won't cost you much.
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  2. #2
    Audio/HT Nut version 1.3a
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woochifer
    The calibration process is about.....The ~$1,300 that you would spend upgrading the display from 768p to 1080p would probably be better served upgrading the rest of your video chain to HD
    Thanks much Woochifer for the explanation and detailed comments and clearing up the effect on resolution of the calibration. You make a great point on the price. $999 is almost down to the throw away level. The extra $400 will almost pay for the Oppo BD-83 when it is released. I have checked out the owner's manual on the new Panny model 55 and see that the sub crossover is limited to 100Hz and the OPPO, at least on the 983, was at the better 80Hz level for my situation (sub by neccessity being in the rear of the room and also my older Sony ES receiver which I intend to keep for some time).

    On second thought, if I want to stay low budget and depending on how compelling the new OPPO is, I might consider going with the Panny new model 35 (doesn't have the in player decoding for True HD and DTS MA thru anaolog outs, but is pretty much the same otherwise) and just stay with the Sony ES using Dolby Digital until I can upgrade to a new HDMI receiver. I now have a Velodyne SMS-1 sub EQ and the Sony ES has a great Para EQ that allows for very effective frequency response tweeking which I would loose passing the HD audio thru the player's bass management.

    The new model 35 is suppose to list for $299 versus the model 55 at $399, so it should be down to $250 or so in no time online.

    Thanks for helping make the choice easier for me on the plasma.

    Thanks also to Duds and Wits. I'd also like to thank my third grade teacher, Sister Mary Holy Water.......(orchestra volume increases drowning out RR6's acceptance speech).

    RR6
    Last edited by RoadRunner6; 10-16-2008 at 06:05 PM.

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