Quote Originally Posted by RoadRunner6
Thanks guys for the kind comments.

Bobsticks, the model progression is 80U (same as my Costco model), 85U, 800U and 850U. Only the 800U and 850U have a mini D-sub input. I'm computer challenged but I presume that is the same as an RGB input.

Woochifer, thanks much for your comments and advice. You might have concluded correctly that I presumed I would be able to improve the PQ with calibration, either Avias or ISF. Thanks for your comments on the THX screens. However, my primary concern right now was to determine if I wanted to stay with 768p or go with 1080p. That is why I concentrated on the perceived clarity and definition. I spent a lot of time looking at certain scenes like facial close-ups, beards and scenes with text, etc that were great for evaluating sharpness in the PQ. I presumed (maybe incorrectly) that this would not be significantly improved in the calibration process. I have a big question for you and any one else with your knowledge: Will the calibration with an Avia disc or pro ISF calibration, as well as impoving color, contrast, etc., also improve the perceived definition of the display?

Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.
The calibration process is about getting all of the settings optimized so that they are tuned to the same specs that the mastering engineers use at their production desks. In general, TVs leave the factory set to a "torch mode" that has the brightness and sharpness dialed way up. This is not for optimal picture quality, but rather for standing out in a retail showroom or brightly lit big box store. (Generally, only high end stores and occasional midlevel stores calibrate their displays for the most realistic comparisons)

Different manufacturers use different default settings (and these settings will even vary between models from the same manufacturer), which is why calibration is so essential. It basically optimizes the picture to the same standard benchmarks that the studios use.

Calibrating your TV won't reveal any new details or increase the resolution. It will simply give you the optimal color balances and let your TV deliver ITS best possible picture quality. The first time I calibrated my TV from the factory defaults, it was literally like watching a brand new TV -- the picture quality improvement was that dramatic.

The difference between using a calibration disc and going with an ISF calibration will also depend on the set. Some manufacturers allow for more detailed control over the picture adjustments (Pioneer Elite is by far the best in this regard), while others are shipped with settings that allow for the standard controls to come pretty close to benchmark performance (I recall that Hitachi and/or Toshiba was supposedly pretty good). Other TVs benefit greatly from ISF calibration because a lot of the necessary adjustments are buried within the service menus (need special codes to enter the service menus, and you invalidate your warranty if you mess around with them).

I recall other posters mentioning that the older Panasonic models looked good after using a calibration disc, but were stunning after an ISF calibration. On the AVS Forum, I've seen other comments mentioning that the newer Panasonic's factory settings are now closer to the benchmark standards than before. No idea how much the ISF calibration improves the picture compared to their older models.

Quote Originally Posted by RoadRunner 6
When I was at Costco yesterday the 768p was back down to $999 and the 1080p was down even farther to $1399 with in store reduction with that coupon. I hope maybe that it will be down another $100-$200 before or after Christmas. It will then be a no-brainer for me.

I have been financially challenged for years and have developed by necessity into a big bang for the buck guy (I've been a blue collar.worker for the last several decades and my wife cannot work). I think there is a line of diminishing returns on HT equipment but that line is significantly above my financial level. I would move up a lot if I had the funds. However, I'm very pleased with the performance I realized given the money output. It makes it more fun and rewarding for me when I have to put lots of research and bird dogging into each purchase to get the best price/performance results.

RR6
If you're happy with your TV and financially challenged, I would stick with what you got. The ~$1,300 that you would spend upgrading the display from 768p to 1080p would probably be better served upgrading the rest of your video chain to HD, if you haven't done so already. 1080p isn't going away, and prices will continue to decline. In the meantime, maximizing what you already have won't cost you much.