Let me state from the outset that I am neither naysayer nor yeasayer. I want to come to my own conclusions about how different DVD players sound. I've tried to post a methodology that would allow me to be able to A/B different players at my home with as little fuss as possible. This methodolgy, however, has not met with the satisfaction of some members.

I realize that the title was perhaps misleading. Instead, I should have written, "Please judge my methodology and PROPOSE ANY REASONSABLE SOLUTIONS THAT CAN BE EASILY IMPLEMENTED AT HOME." I don't have access to an ABX machine, I have no access to a voltage attenuator at home although I do have a voltage reader. My amplifier is an Audiomat Solfege Reference. This unit has an analog knob for volume control and a switch for mute. That's it and that's all. There are no notches to be able to accurately level match the inputs when they get changed.

Before I detail once again the methodology that I am proposing, I have a question for MTry, Skeptic, Naysayers, and other ABXers. A simple yes/no answer in your reply is greatly appreciated. The question is as follows:

HAVE YOU EVER DONE AN A/B COMPARISON BETWEEN CD OR DVD PLAYERS YOURSELF?

I'm interested in the above question because I would like to have replies from people who have actually practiced what they preach. If you have done an A/B comparison personally, what methodology did you use? How did you completely eliminate bias? If you haven't done A/B tests personally, I would like to know how you came to the conclusion that all well designed CD/DVD players sound exactly the same, and that you shouldn't spend over $XXX.00 dollars on a machine.

The methodology that I am proposing is as follows:

1) 2 identical discs with a variety of material.
2) 2 separate players running in synchronous time (as much as I can allow) with displays covered.
- the units that I have right now are Integra Research RDV-1 (($1000/$3000), Classe DVD-1($1300/$3500), Toshiba SD-1600 ($20/$250), Toshiba SD-3950 ($NA/$80) The prices are (NEW/USED).
3) Identical cables running into the integrated amplifier (Audiomat Solfege Reference).
4) I will listen to the music until I can identify which DVD player is playing.
5) The wife will click the mute switch and do the following: 1) She will change the volume knob or she will leave it the same. 2) She will change the input switch or she will leave it the same. In both cases, I will not have any idea of whether she changed volume or inputs or whether they stayed the same. I also won't have any idea if she changed one variable and left the other as is.
6) After an interval of between 10-15 seconds, the wife will turn the volume back on. This should eliminate any bias that there is any discrepancy in the synchronization of the units.

I would appreciate any help in trying to find a SOLUTION if this methodology is deemed poor. Comments that YOU MUST level match to within .1dB are not useful by themselves. A useful comment would be "this is how you attain good level matching by doing these easy steps...."