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  1. #1
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Ported subwoofer stuffing

    So i've been browsing around the internet about what the general consensus is on this, but i don't seem to find it. Right now i've applied some wadding (about an inch thickness) on parts of the inside walls. I'm wondering whether or nor i should put more. I suppose i can try to experiment without screwing back the driver in place.

    What are your experiences? Some people say there shouldn't be any at all in ported subs. What's your say?




    Ported subwoofer stuffing-dsc05326.jpg

    Ported subwoofer stuffing-dsc05328.jpg

    Ported subwoofer stuffing-dsc05339.jpg

    Ported subwoofer stuffing-dsc05340.jpg

    Just a few pics so you can have a look at the sub

  2. #2
    Forum Regular swan24's Avatar
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    I've used fine wool stuffing in the port only to tune a speaker to its environ... It's easier to play around with density / amount of stuffing to get the desired effect... Some speaker manufacturers provide various 'bungs' to do this, and it's very effective, IMHO... (m.)

  3. #3
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    Congratulations on a great looking build. If you have no guidelines I'd experiment by adding more foam or taking away as the case may be. I just ordered a pound of Acoustistuff from Parts Express for my Frugal Horn Mk3 build as well as some Ultra Touch for dampening. If you get any ringing from the sub driver you can use plasti-clay on the spiders. The cabinet looks thick and strong but if needed it could be made more solid with Durham's water putty. What will you driving it with?

  4. #4
    Loving This kexodusc's Avatar
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    I use rigid fiberglass or mineral wool now as I find it takes less material and just seems to sound better to me, but I still have a hard time guessing how much stuffing to use. I honestly don't think there is a rule of thumb - all depends on the driver, size of the box, and shape to my ears. I haven't heard an unstuffed sub sound better than some damping material but that's just me. Trial and error. I use masking tape around the woofer frame and don't screw it in during demos to speed things up instead of unscrewing the woofer every time...usually doesn't take me long to fine tune now. Your ears might prefer a different sound.

    Nice job!

  5. #5
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Here is the original thread for the sub if interested: My most successful subwoofer build

    It's currently being powered by a Rythmik Audio 350 plate amp (350 watts). It's very similar to the A300 on this page http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html

    The only pain about trial and error with the wadding is that because of the bracing, I have to cut small pieces and set them inside the sub. That also means they'll most likely be flying around when the sub is playing...

    I'm wondering, it is likely damping makes the sound less 'boomy'?

  6. #6
    Forum Regular flippo's Avatar
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    Use 2' rockwool

  7. #7
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    Fiberglass might be ok in a sealed speaker but never in a ported speaker.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist
    Fiberglass might be ok in a sealed speaker but never in a ported speaker.
    Yes, Im a little worried about those invisible sharp fibers flying around in the room... that's why ive stopped using fiberglass. Rock wool/mineral wool seems like a good alternative.

    I've added a little damping using extra wadding in the subwoofer and have put it back together. It seems to sound tighter than it did, but that could just be me. Maybe unscrewing and tightening up the driver again has helped. I've always thought it sounded a little muddy, but it's It actually sounding pretty good now... maybe my ears are getting used to it. Im enjoying it for the time being

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