Amp heats up and shuts off - Help!!

[jeskibuff]

Yes, the Yamaha does have A and B speaker outputs with a front panel selector for either or both.

So you play both sets of speakers at the same time? If so, you're giving your Yamaha a REALLY tough load...by my calculations, about a 2.67-ohm load. The Yamaha may be able to take it, but it might be running pretty hot.

I connected my computers sound card out to the Yamaha (Tape In) - and I used to get the sound from just the right channel speaker and that too at very low SPL compared to the tuner or the DVD, while the left channel speaker just gave a constant irritating hum.

This sounds like a connector problem to me. What kind of connector are you using? Is it just one cable with a mini-phono plug at one end and two male RCA plugs on the other end? Is it a combination of cables and a "Y" adapter?

This led me to connect the sound card out to the powered sub of the altec lansing and use the sattelite speaker out to connect to the Yamaha (since the altecs dont have a pre-out).

You don't want to do that. The output level of the Altec should be too high for what your Yamaha is expecting.

I hope I am not going to blow up my Altec powered sub in trying all these permutations and combinations with the sound.

The Altec has nothing to worry about. Your Yamaha IS vulnerable to damage, though!

[MikeyBC]

Maybe your amp has a faulty thermoswitch that is prematurely activating the protection circuit....?? A good repair shop should be able to check it out.

[kspv]

I have the same problem as yours with respect to the line-out volume of the BPL Celeste Worldspace receiver, which I use with a Yamaha AX-396 amplifier and Lithos Studio-1 monitor speakers (www.lithosindia.com). I observed that the satellite radio signals are inherently low in volume, and have about 40% lesss volume than even the normal FM radio signals, which I receive through the same tuner. Therefore, the problem may not be with the line out volume of the Celeste itself, because the FM and cassette sections of the same tuner are seen to deliver normal output. I even tried connection the tuner to the "phono" input of the Yamaha AX-396, as the phono input is more sensitive than other inputs in an amp (as the output of a turntable is much less than any other audio equipment), but this resulted in very high input volume and distortion.

Roar-II is a powered subwoofer of Sonodyne which is critically acclaimed, and therefore should not create any problems to your Yamaha AX-596. The problem may be the Sonus floorstanders demanding too much power at higher volumes from the Yamaha (in which case I suggest you buy speakers with higher impedence, lower wattage and higher sensitivity), or simply the + & - of the speaker cables may be shorting somewhere. The resistor method may actually deteriorate the sound quality, and therefore I do not advice it

[msrance]

So you play both sets of speakers at the same time? If so, you're giving your Yamaha a REALLY tough load...by my calculations, about a 2.67-ohm load. The Yamaha may be able to take it, but it might be running pretty hot.

How do you make these calculations Jeskibuff? Could you help me out - just for further increase of general knowledge. Some how the Yamaha doesnt seem to be running too hot and its never tripped on the protection circuitry once since I have shifted to this configuration. Do you think this whole connection path somehow stumps the potection?

This sounds like a connector problem to me. What kind of connector are you using? Is it just one cable with a mini-phono plug at one end and two male RCA plugs on the other end? Is it a combination of cables and a "Y" adapter?

The sound card has a single mini phono plug at both ends that gets connected to the the auxiliary in of the Altec powered sub. From the Altec the standard Banana connector wires run one each from the sattelite speaker outputs to the Yamaha's Tape In inputs.

You don't want to do that. The output level of the Altec should be too high for what your Yamaha is expecting.

You have a point here - bcos I had never experienced this clipping with either of the equipment running seperately. What do you suggest as the solution to this problem. I have already tried connecting the sound card out directly to the Yamaha with "mini phono at one end and two male RCA plugs at other end - and like I told you - it just delivers a very low sound output from only the left channel speaker.

The Altec has nothing to worry about. Your Yamaha IS vulnerable to damage, though!

Do you suggest if all these methods are not working - i better revert back to using the computer-Altec and the Yamaha as two seperate units with no interconnectivity - rather than end up with a burnt Amp? But believe me the sound uotput of the Altec at 40W rms is really low for the room size.

[jeskibuff]

How do you make these calculations Jeskibuff?

Well, simplifying it requires considering your speakers just pure resistance loads. In fact, there are crossovers involved which add impedance and capacitance to the mix. Putting two speakers in series is a simple calculation. Just add the impedances. In other words, a 4-ohm speaker in series with an 8-ohm speaker would present a 12-ohm load to your amp/receiver. Connecting them in parallel (as you have done with the A/B setup) requires a different calculation. It requires summing the inverses, then inverting the sum. Mathematically, you could represents this as 1/((1/A) + (1/B)) where A and B are the impedances of your A and B speakers. So in your case, you would add 1/4 to 1/8, then divide that into 1, giving 2.67.

Some how the Yamaha doesnt seem to be running too hot and its never tripped on the protection circuitry once since I have shifted to this configuration. Do you think this whole connection path somehow stumps the potection?

My best guess is that you may not be driving it hard enough (at loud volumes) to trip the circuitry and it's able to handle it. It's a gamble...the Yamaha MAY be able to handle it, or you MAY be stressing it a bit, reducing its usable lifespan. Maybe an email to Yamaha would get a better answer as to the detriments.

The sound card has a single mini phono plug at both ends that gets connected to the the auxiliary in of the Altec powered sub.

I assume you mean the sound card cable. Both ends of that cable are probably stereo connectors, which should look like this: . Note the two black bands on the metal tip?

From the Altec the standard Banana connector wires run one each from the sattelite speaker outputs to the Yamaha's Tape In inputs.

And you want to disconnect this PRONTO. Speaker outputs are way too high for low-level inputs. You could do permanent damage to the input circuitry on the Yamaha.

What do you suggest as the solution to this problem. I have already tried connecting the sound card out directly to the Yamaha with "mini phono at one end and two male RCA plugs at other end - and like I told you - it just delivers a very low sound output from only the left channel speaker.

Well, this connection is what I wanted to find out more about...from the sound card to the Yamaha...forget the Altec for now. I suspect that you may have some mono connectors or the wrong "Y" adapter. Here's what a mono plug looks like: . Notice the single black band on the metal tip?

Do you suggest if all these methods are not working - i better revert back to using the computer-Altec and the Yamaha as two seperate units with no interconnectivity - rather than end up with a burnt Amp?

You SHOULD be able to make the connection properly. If you're getting stereo output with your Altec speakers, you should get a good stereo input to your Yamaha.

[F1]

It's good to know that the shut-off problem is solved. By rerouting the subwoofer basically your amplifier does not handle the freq below the crossover freq, which is now handled by subwoofer amplifier. It reduces a great deal of load since bass takes a lot of power.

As for the soundcard connection, I strongly believe you are using mono plug. Get the stereo jack as Jeskibuff suggested and I think it will solve the problem. I used to connect my computer from the soundcard to receiver using stereo mini plug at one end and two RCA plugs at the other end and never had such a balance/hum problem. Good luck.

[msrance]

My best guess is that you may not be driving it hard enough (at loud volumes) to trip the circuitry and it's able to handle it. It's a gamble...the Yamaha MAY be able to handle it, or you MAY be stressing it a bit, reducing its usable lifespan. Maybe an email to Yamaha would get a better answer as to the detriments.

Maybe I will do just that - but i doubt if they will reply to dumb querries like these from imbeciles. Anyways no harn in giving it a try.

And you want to disconnect this PRONTO. Speaker outputs are way too high for low-level inputs. You could do permanent damage to the input circuitry on the Yamaha.

Thanks for that one buddy. That connections dumped. I woudnt try any new antics without better info hereafter.

I suspect that you may have some mono connectors or the wrong "Y" adapter. Notice the single black band on the metal tip?You SHOULD be able to make the connection properly. If you're getting stereo output with your Altec speakers, you should get a good stereo input to your Yamaha.

I am in a rather isolated, godforsaken place - where finding anything technical is out of question ( U can imagine the rest when i tell u, u dont find blank CD here ). Next time i go to Delhi - i sure will arrange for a stereo adapter for the Y cables.

But i must say Jeskibuff and F1 seem to be on the path to clairvoyance - peeping into my head to check out all things stupid that i could have done. And till now i thought it was just us doctors jobs to operate on people's minds!! Thanks a ton buddy.

[jeskibuff]

there are crossovers involved which add impedance and capacitance to the mix.

Oops...I meant "...inductance and capacitance...". Impedance is actually a measure of resistance, capacitance, inductance and other factors that resists or "impedes" electrical current flow.

Next time i go to Delhi - i sure will arrange for a stereo adapter for the Y cables.

Before you do that, you need to tell us what you've got. If you get a stereo adapter but the "Y" cables are mono, it still won't work right.

But i must say Jeskibuff and F1 seem to be on the path to clairvoyance - peeping into my head to check out all things stupid that i could have done.

Well, it helps that we've probably both done such "stupid" things many times in our lives. So, we're not clairvoyant...just "experienced"! Of course, when we "normal" people make mistakes, we just take our damaged electronics in to the repair shop. When you doctors use a mono heart bypass valve instead of a stereo valve, it has much more dire consequences!

[msrance]

If you get a stereo adapter but the "Y" cables are mono, it still won't work right.

Yes, Jeskibuff, you could trust me to make these silly mistakes - but then the same can be said for the chap who assembelled the Y cables for me. The adapter is stereo - the one with two black bands - but the Y cables maybe mono. How do you check out if the Y cables are mono? except for the fact that they run only one speaker - how else do you get to that diagnosis?

Well, it helps that we've probably both done such "stupid" things many times in our lives. So, we're not clairvoyant...just "experienced"! Of course, when we "normal" people make mistakes, we just take our damaged electronics in to the repair shop. When you doctors use a mono heart bypass valve instead of a stereo valve, it has much more dire consequences!

First of all friend, let me clarify that its not that we docs are "abnormal" - we are about as normal as anyone else! Thank God for small mercies - there are no stereo heart valves. But I was just thinking - if the Y cables of such a valve were to short circuit - what would be the side effect to the individual's hair !!

[jeskibuff]

...the same can be said for the chap who assembelled the Y cables for me.

Ah...if I'm right, I think we may have located the problem. These are homemade cables? Are the connectors hand soldered to the wires? So far this looks like it may be the culprit and the source of the hum. Can you describe this cable? Does it have a stereo or mono mini-phono jack?

How do you check out if the Y cables are mono?

I assume that you don't have a volt-ohm meter on hand. You can build a little continuity tester pretty easily from devices like battery-powered flashlights, remote controls and some wire. Let me know what you have on hand and I'll walk you through it. You need about a 2-foot section of flexible wiring such as cheap speaker cable. Lamp cord will work, but it will be harder to work with. A flashlight will work, but one where the flashlight will still work with the battery compartment opened. A battery-powered toy might be another good possibility, like a toy car.

[F1]

Yes, Jeskibuff, you could trust me to make these silly mistakes - but then the same can be said for the chap who assembelled the Y cables for me. The adapter is stereo - the one with two black bands - but the Y cables maybe mono. How do you check out if the Y cables are mono? except for the fact that they run only one speaker - how else do you get to that diagnosis?

Strange, you have stereo mini plug but getting mono sound. Did you plug it in to the soundcard all the way in? Basically if you have connector something like this
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=274%2D883
or
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=4885&DID=7
(ok wrong size in the part from Partsexpress, but this type) you just need to connect one end to soundcard and the other end to normal RCA cable to amplifier.
Try also to connect to different input on the amplifier: aux, tape or else, and see if you have the same problem.

[msrance]

Strange, you have stereo mini plug but getting mono sound. Did you plug it in to the soundcard all the way in? Basically if you have connector something like this
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=4885&DID=7 you just need to connect one end to soundcard and the other end to normal RCA cable to amplifier. Try also to connect to different input on the amplifier: aux, tape or else, and see if you have the same problem.

Yes, my friend F1, You've hit it bang on again. This looks like the partsexpress cable. It is plugged all the way in. I tried connecting it with variuos inputs - but thats the best it ever does. The problem is with the Y cable that has a stereo adapter at one end and has connectors for connecting to Amp input. ( This chap calls them the Banana Plugs ).

Ah...if I'm right, I think we may have located the problem. These are homemade cables? Are the connectors hand soldered to the wires? So far this looks like it may be the culprit and the source of the hum. Can you describe this cable? Does it have a stereo or mono mini-phono jack?

Yes, Jeskibuff they are home made cables. The connectors are hand soldered to the wires. This cable has a mini phono jack at one end - from here two pairs of flimsy wires are soldered which at the other end are soldered to a pair of ?RCA connectors (the above mentioned ones- Banana Plugs)

I assume that you don't have a volt-ohm meter on hand. You can build a little continuity tester pretty easily from devices like battery-powered flashlights, remote controls and some wire. Let me know what you have on hand and I'll walk you through it. You need about a 2-foot section of flexible wiring such as cheap speaker cable. Lamp cord will work, but it will be harder to work with. A flashlight will work, but one where the flashlight will still work with the battery compartment opened. A battery-powered toy might be another good possibility, like a toy car.

Correct Assumption, friend. I indeed dont have a volt-ohm meter. I guess I could get it tested from some small time electronics repair chap. I dont think I could ever build such a thing even if I had all those things.

Did I ever tell you that I'd got admitted to an engineering college by sheer chance ? ( electric engineering - at that ). I flunked my 1st semester exam in 'Applied Mechanics'. Now thats what I call - undying interest in a subject. Not that I was dumb enough to not pass - I could complete my medicine without any hurdles along the way later - but i failed in engineering coz I just plain hated Physics, Electricity and the whole gamut of such insanities! The thought of making something brings back all the painful memories of failure!

Anyways, I do have a thin, copper lamp wire, a flashlight but not the kind that could work when open. I guess the TV repair chap would be a cheaper bet on this one. No toys - I am too old for them and no kids (actually no wife too) - so the whole thing might be a bit too expensive for a screening test. What's to be checked in this whole assembly?