RTR III E speaker repairs

[luvtolisten]

Gday yeah maybe replace just the midrange and see how it goes. i think i have found a part that could work but im not too sure. I dont no if u guys have Jaycar Electronics over there but heres a link to the part i found on the aus site.

http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...2&form=KEYWORD

Im not too sure weather my amp would drive this speaker and what effect the crossover would have on it. My amp is an old Optonica(sharp) sm-5200 with 330 watt output power. The manual says 33 watts per channel at 8 ohms.

Without knowing your crossover, I can't guarantee it would work, but it looks like it covers enough of frequency range, it shouldn't matter, so my guess (and that's all it is with the information given) is yes, it would work.
Your amp is a good vintage amp, although quoted at 33 watts, it's underrated and more like the 40-50 watt range, so it should drive that midrange speaker fine.
I see they also sell capacitors at your website, you'd be doing yourself a big favor by replacing the caps, even if it's with the cheaper ones. It would make a difference in the sound, let the crossover work as it was designed to.The caps wear out just as the midrange did, just not visible.

[timmeh1994]

Without knowing your crossover, I can't guarantee it would work, but it looks like it covers enough of frequency range, it shouldn't matter, so my guess (and that's all it is with the information given) is yes, it would work.
Your amp is a good vintage amp, although quoted at 33 watts, it's underrated and more like the 40-50 watt range, so it should drive that midrange speaker fine.
I see they also sell capacitors at your website, you'd be doing yourself a big favor by replacing the caps, even if it's with the cheaper ones. It would make a difference in the sound, let the crossover work as it was designed to.The caps wear out just as the midrange did, just not visible.

This is my quick drawing of the crossover. I have marked one of the boxes on the skematic as a circuit breaker, mainly because it has a reset switch on the outside of the box which goes straight into this box. There is also a photo of the crossover and the back panel.




if you could point me in the right direction that would be great

[luvtolisten]

It looks like your crossover is a 1st order, with a capacitor to cut off the low frequency of the midrange and tweeter. The crossover for the midrange is 3300hz for the low end, and 6500 hz for the high end (or the low end of the tweeter)..
The midrange you picked out would work as is, but I would replace the 6uf capacitor with a 15uf capacitor, this would lower the cutfoff point to the midrange (which can go down to 70hz). Using the 15uf capacitor, you would bring the low cutoff of your midrange down to 1300 hz, which would overlap the woofer frequency, making it smoother sounding than the original. The specs on the midrange are better than the original, may as well use them!
I would replace the tweeter capacitor with the same value 3uf, since the low cutoff is 6500 hz, and your new midrange goes to 7000hz, which is about right.

You could use cat no. RY 6910 for the midrange (2 ea) one for each midrange.
and cat no.RY 6901 (6ea), you will have 3 capacitors for each tweeter, twisting the ends together in parallel to make 1 capacitor which will = 3uf. Do not use the the 3.3uf, it may set the cutoff for the tweeter too low, causing distortion or damage to it.

You should also buy a can of contact cleaner spray for the pots or Lpads to the midrange and tweeter. Cat no, NA1004. It will eliminate the scratchy noise from the pots, and would work well on your amp volume, tone and switch controls as well if needed (just be sure it's unplugged if you decide to, and give it an hour, making sure it's dry before you plug it back in). I always have a can around, comes in handy.