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  1. #26
    AR Newbie Registered Member
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    Talking Realistic Mach One owner too!

    Hello guys,
    This is 1jazzman and i'm on the make for some of the original Mach One grille cloth also. I'm out here in Sactown, ca., have just got my "Andre the Giant" hands on another pair of these heartstopping speakers. Back in the 90's, i had 2 pairs of them, one pair i sold and the better pair i gave to an older brother as a wedding gift, he STILL has them and would rather fight than switch, fellas, i hooked 'em! He's NEVER had a pair of speakers like those! Ever since, i've had the hots for them again, i found a pair on CL, they wanted a whopping $75 bucks for them, i was told they were mint and they weren't but, he got the price down to $60, i picked them up from him and brought them back to Sac, I spent labor day sanding them down and i took out a can of Minwax Red Mahogany stain and drowned them with it, which they gladly soaked up and they're beautiful! I'm glad to see that i'm not the only one who loves these speakers, the bass will stop your bloodflow and they're very easy to drive also. I have a pair of JBL Decade 36's in my living room that will be replaced by these! I love those too but, not like these and these won't be going ANYWHERE for awhile. Advice to anyone looking for these speakers, GET 'EM IF YOU CAN!" Happy hunting!

  2. #27
    Realistic Cu-Melter's Avatar
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    I'm almost certain that the slopes used 2nd order...IE- 12dB roll offs.
    X-over points are 1200 Hz and 4500 Hz

  3. #28
    Forum Regular harley .guy07's Avatar
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    Just to let the mach one fans know parts Express is know selling replacement woofers for the mach one speakers. they look the same and have the same specs as the originals. I do not remember the price of them but I don't think they were too high.

    Marantz SR5008(HT)
    Nu Force P8 Preamp (2 channel)
    Pass Labs X150.5(2 channel)
    Adcom 545 mk2 power amp(rear channel amp)
    Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S Mains Speakers
    Dayton 8" HO custom sealed subwoofer(2 channel)
    Yamaha NS-c444 center channel
    Emotiva ERD-1 surround speakers
    JBL e250p subwoofer highly modified
    Samsung 46" LED TV
    OPPO BDP-83 blue ray/multi format player
    ps-audio NuWave dac (2 channel)
    Dell I660 music server running fidelizer windows 8 audio optimizer
    PS Audio Quintet power center



  4. #29
    Realistic Cu-Melter's Avatar
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  5. #30
    Boatman1
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    I picked up a pair of Mach Ones last year at a habitat for humanity store for 10 bucks,
    they said no one would bye them cause they where to heavy, had to recenter the mid on
    the horn and they work mint, I run them on a old Realistic STA 2000 reciever, niebers hate me now.

  6. #31
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Upon further investigation many errors in this thread

    I was getting ready to restore 3 of the 6 Mach Ones I have in storage, and found many errors that folks have posted on the Mach Ones.

    Doing some research I found the 4024,4024a and 4029 all have 8ohm woofer. There were never 4ohm woofers on the Mach One. The 4024 uses a rubber surround, the 4024A a foam covered by some preservation coating, and the 4029 just plain foam which is why it rots, and the 4024a and 4024 don't.

    I also found there is absolutely no difference in the drivers of the 4024A and 4029, except the 4029 uses ferro fluid in the tweeter and midrange so it can put out more power.

    The 4024A measures better than the 4029, and the 4024 measures better that 4024A. I took my speakers to my friends workshop, and measured all six of the models I own in his gigantic backroom using the MLSSA measuring system. The 4024 had a +-4.5db from 50-20k, the 4024A was -+6db from 50-20k, and the 4029 was-+ 7.5db from 50-20k.

    The Mach One is not a true three way system, it is a two and a half way. The woofer response extends to 1.2k, crosses over to the midrange which actually has output that extends to 20k. The tweeter catches up to the midrange driver at 4khz and also extends its output to about 25k. The larger horn on the midrange is designed to extend the driver's response down to 1.2k. The addition of the tweeter seems to help the dispersion at the highest frequencies. The caps need changing, as I am getting a some bass below the 1.2k crossover cutoff coming out of the midrange driver. I ordered Dayton caps to replace the stock ones.

    The cabinet is really too small for the 15" driver, which is why the woofer only responds down to 50hz, and not 20hz as advertised. One of the first things I am going to do is drill a large hole between the sealed woofer and midrange cabinets, add more stuffing, and totally seal the midrange space from any air leaks. According to the modeling I am doing that should extend is response down to below 30hz with 9db more output. This should make the speaker perform as advertised(flat to 20hz), and lower the Q of the system overall.

    I measured the speakers before pulling out the drivers and crossover. I then measured the individual drivers frequency response. I have to say, I am very impressed with the performance of these almost thirty year old speakers. I was shocked with the measurements of the 4024. This model measures better than some very expensive speakers they make today. I am going to totally restore the 4024 and 4024A. The 4029 I am going to convert to a subwoofers. They just do not sound as good as the 4024 and 4024A in the mids and highs.

    This is going to be a fun project to do, and once I am finished I am going to hand the speakers over to my son. I need to get some of the equipment in storage put to use instead of just letting them rot in storage.

    All of the drivers in the speakers are in great shape, as there is no sign of deterioration of the foam in front of the tweeter and midrange units. The bass drivers are also in great shape. I am going to coat them with a special glue to rebind the fibers which will preserve the driver, extend its response, and remove the nasty peak at 600hz.

    For those who have heard these speakers, and commented that they hated their sound were probably listening to the 4029. These speakers have a response that is all over the map, which makes them peaky at 600hz, 6k, and 9k. The 4024 and 4024A have a single notch like peak at 600hz, but measure incredibly well below and above that single peak. The 4024 had a 4.5db peak at 600hz, the 4024A was 6db. The coating and opening up the mid and bass cabinets should take care of that.

    I am going to keep posting my progress on this project.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  7. #32
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cu-Melter
    I'm almost certain that the slopes used 2nd order...IE- 12dB roll offs.
    X-over points are 1200 Hz and 4500 Hz
    This information is correct. However all of the drivers are in phase, so I believe some of the drivers are wired out of phase with one another to counter the phase twist of the 2nd order crossover.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  8. #33
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    Ns-10

    [QUOTE=cpq1c1mo;61641]I have to agree These speaker were virtually indestructable and came with a "Lifetime Warranty" and a true 20Hz - 25,000 Khz most people never got to experience digital sound through these such as CD's ect.. in fact the only speakers that I have heard that comes close is the Yamaha NS Studio Monitors

    although it takes plenty of power to punch the Mach's I wouldn't recommend them to newer intagrated amps under 120 watts RMS minimum because they will soak up bass like a sponge.

    Consumer Reports Rated these speakers at # 2 in 1980 of all the speakers they have tested worldwide only beaten by a $1200 Cerwin Vega Tower

    The Yamaha NS-10 passive studio monitors sound horrible, comparing most similar product lines of many years of studio monitors is stupid. The NS-10 are so crappy, if you mix and master your studio work on them and make it sound good. Then the finished product can only sound better on other systems.
    NS-10's are only for the professional studio engineers to master with!

  9. #34
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    I purchased a pair of these Mach 1's in the mid seventies. I also purchased The STA 2000 receiver rated at 80 watts ;per channel. This combination sounded really impressive compaired to other set ups I have tried for many years. I understand that Pioneer made these receivers for Radio Shack. They really had a good clean sound and really good power. Newer stereo receivers did not sound as good even if they had more rated power..

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Terrence the Terrible View Post
    I was getting ready to restore 3 of the 6 Mach Ones I have in storage, and found many errors that folks have posted on the Mach Ones.

    Doing some research I found the 4024,4024a and 4029 all have 8ohm woofer. There were never 4ohm woofers on the Mach One. The 4024 uses a rubber surround, the 4024A a foam covered by some preservation coating, and the 4029 just plain foam which is why it rots, and the 4024a and 4024 don't.

    I also found there is absolutely no difference in the drivers of the 4024A and 4029, except the 4029 uses ferro fluid in the tweeter and midrange so it can put out more power.

    The 4024A measures better than the 4029, and the 4024 measures better that 4024A. I took my speakers to my friends workshop, and measured all six of the models I own in his gigantic backroom using the MLSSA measuring system. The 4024 had a +-4.5db from 50-20k, the 4024A was -+6db from 50-20k, and the 4029 was-+ 7.5db from 50-20k.

    The Mach One is not a true three way system, it is a two and a half way. The woofer response extends to 1.2k, crosses over to the midrange which actually has output that extends to 20k. The tweeter catches up to the midrange driver at 4khz and also extends its output to about 25k. The larger horn on the midrange is designed to extend the driver's response down to 1.2k. The addition of the tweeter seems to help the dispersion at the highest frequencies. The caps need changing, as I am getting a some bass below the 1.2k crossover cutoff coming out of the midrange driver. I ordered Dayton caps to replace the stock ones.

    The cabinet is really too small for the 15" driver, which is why the woofer only responds down to 50hz, and not 20hz as advertised. One of the first things I am going to do is drill a large hole between the sealed woofer and midrange cabinets, add more stuffing, and totally seal the midrange space from any air leaks. According to the modeling I am doing that should extend is response down to below 30hz with 9db more output. This should make the speaker perform as advertised(flat to 20hz), and lower the Q of the system overall.

    I measured the speakers before pulling out the drivers and crossover. I then measured the individual drivers frequency response. I have to say, I am very impressed with the performance of these almost thirty year old speakers. I was shocked with the measurements of the 4024. This model measures better than some very expensive speakers they make today. I am going to totally restore the 4024 and 4024A. The 4029 I am going to convert to a subwoofers. They just do not sound as good as the 4024 and 4024A in the mids and highs.

    This is going to be a fun project to do, and once I am finished I am going to hand the speakers over to my son. I need to get some of the equipment in storage put to use instead of just letting them rot in storage.

    All of the drivers in the speakers are in great shape, as there is no sign of deterioration of the foam in front of the tweeter and midrange units. The bass drivers are also in great shape. I am going to coat them with a special glue to rebind the fibers which will preserve the driver, extend its response, and remove the nasty peak at 600hz.

    For those who have heard these speakers, and commented that they hated their sound were probably listening to the 4029. These speakers have a response that is all over the map, which makes them peaky at 600hz, 6k, and 9k. The 4024 and 4024A have a single notch like peak at 600hz, but measure incredibly well below and above that single peak. The 4024 had a 4.5db peak at 600hz, the 4024A was 6db. The coating and opening up the mid and bass cabinets should take care of that.

    I am going to keep posting my progress on this project.
    Hi Mr. 4024, I'm new here really interested in what you say. I recently mach one, I've seen this blog before funds. I see that they are not below 30 hz sure. I compare it to PA I malgrer 28Hz and they make their speaker 12 '. Tell me where you are? Does it have given the search result after you make a trout between 2 parts? Can you tell me what I need exatement buy as Dayton caps? I know that but I'm not smart to do otherwise I will do. Is this gonna get me down to 30 hz? The best would be from 25 to 28 hz!

  11. #36
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadtrip View Post
    Hi Mr. 4024, I'm new here really interested in what you say. I recently mach one, I've seen this blog before funds. I see that they are not below 30 hz sure. I compare it to PA I malgrer 28Hz and they make their speaker 12 '. Tell me where you are? Does it have given the search result after you make a trout between 2 parts? Can you tell me what I need exatement buy as Dayton caps? I know that but I'm not smart to do otherwise I will do. Is this gonna get me down to 30 hz? The best would be from 25 to 28 hz!
    The answer to your question is no. The caps are for the crossover, as the caps that are already in them are stock, deteriorated, and out of spec. I ended getting Aricaps

    Auricap High Resolution Capacitors

    because they sounded WAY better than the Daytons.

    The only way to extend the response down to 20hz is to open up the midrange cabinet, carefully remove the midrange horn, and drill three 3" holes(I just drilled one huge hole), reinstall the midrange horn, and stuff around the midrange with polyfill or wool until full. Then you have to fully seal a gasket(I used rubber) and re screw in the back panel so that it is airtight. Any leakage, and it will cause the woofer to flap in the wind. I would also highly recommend you replace the 15" driver with a newer one. I found the old drivers were deteriorating as the fibres tightly woven together start to dry out and separate over time.

    Other tweaks that improve the sound include removing the midrange and tweeter drivers, and replace the foam with felt if it is deteriorated(I did this and it works wonders).

    I also took this project one step further by getting a friend of mine to rebuild the crossover into a true three way crossover with crossover points at 900hz, and 8000hz. Now that 15" woofer does not beam as much at the crossover point.

    This is a nice speaker rebuild project with a before and after experience that is quite staggering. The remodeled Mach Ones sound completely different than the old ones. I have one hometheater that uses three completely redone Mach ones for the front channels, and man is the sound astonishing. Not as good as my high end systems, but WAY better than most mass market speakers. If you really like these speakers, the time and money spent rebuilding them is certain worth it.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  12. #37
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    thank you for your answer. I appreciate it. I noticed that the horn as Sev holes at the mid. Certainly must seal it because it'll affect the sound. Is that why I have you noticed that? thank

  13. #38
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    [QUOTE=roadtrip;393506]hello everyone.
    I love are the realistic mach one. It nice speaker. by cons has been a difference of sd amp 120RM (realistic ) it takes to enjoy. with a 75rms the sound is good. by cons with more power, they have the power they need!
    The other speaker is sound dynsmics serie s (120s-12s 1200smt)
    Does someone have the doncumentation on spesc 1200 smt sound dynamics of the 12s-120s model ... is there some who know or trouverles parts for speakers (cone)! if not available on that model trust me another company? sound synamic s series or smt is extra ordinary definition sound. it may as well play metal blues, country, dance clubbin `as classic (Mozart).

  14. #39
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    Mach One rings a bit of a bell in my head. I'm new to this site, and you can call me Killen. Have you ever heard of JBL 100's? If so, how would you compare the Mach One's to the JBL 100's. An old friend of mine has the JBL's and a sansui 90/90. He swears by that setup, and I do agree with him. With his speakers and his receiver, they together put out a beautiful sound. I am really impressed with some of the classic speakers and receivers.

  15. #40
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkillen View Post
    Mach One rings a bit of a bell in my head. I'm new to this site, and you can call me Killen. Have you ever heard of JBL 100's? If so, how would you compare the Mach One's to the JBL 100's. An old friend of mine has the JBL's and a sansui 90/90. He swears by that setup, and I do agree with him. With his speakers and his receiver, they together put out a beautiful sound. I am really impressed with some of the classic speakers and receivers.
    It really depends on what condition you find both speakers in. They sound quite different, and that is for sure. I have heard both speakers completely reconditioned, and I preferred the sound of the Mach Ones over the JBL. I thought imaging was a bit better, power and impact was a bit better, and overall balance was better with the Mach Ones.

    It really depends on the sound you are looking for. If you like a forward midrange and recessed highs, the L100 is your speaker. The Mach one is a bit more powerful in the midbass, a bit cleaner in the midrange, and just a touch rolled off in the highest highs. The Mach Ones can be equalized for a flat response down to 25hz, the L-100 cannot without overloading the driver and unloading the port below its resonant point.

    If you do the upgrades and driver upgrades I mention in my post, the L-100 would not be able to compete with the Mach One.
    Sir Terrence

    Titan Reference 3D 1080p projector
    200" SI Black Diamond II screen
    Oppo BDP-103D
    Datastat RS20I audio/video processor 12.4 audio setup
    9 Onkyo M-5099 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-510 power amp
    9 Onkyo M-508 power amp
    6 custom CAL amps for subs
    3 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid monitors
    18 custom 3 way horn DSP hybrid surround/ceiling speakers
    2 custom 15" sealed FFEC servo subs
    4 custom 15" H-PAS FFEC servo subs
    THX Style Baffle wall

  16. #41
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    Mach 1's

    Sir Terrance
    I have been following this thread about the Machs this is my set up:

    I have them hanging in the front of my garage powered by an old Pioneer 380 watt RX 531 and in the back i have a pair of Pioneer J825Q powered by another 380 watt Pioneer RX 1220. Researching this site i read where the Machs are best driven by an old Pioneer SX 1980. But i like the digital stations and the fact that they are both controlled by the same remote.
    The only problem is that i cant crank it up over half way without it distorting they don't seam to be balanced and i really don't feel the base as being described. Is it my receiver? do i need more watts?. Or maybe i need to get them checked out like you did. Help

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by That70sGuy View Post
    Sir Terrance
    I have been following this thread about the Machs this is my set up:

    I have them hanging in the front of my garage powered by an old Pioneer 380 watt RX 531 and in the back i have a pair of Pioneer J825Q powered by another 380 watt Pioneer RX 1220. Researching this site i read where the Machs are best driven by an old Pioneer SX 1980. But i like the digital stations and the fact that they are both controlled by the same remote.
    The only problem is that i cant crank it up over half way without it distorting they don't seam to be balanced and i really don't feel the base as being described. Is it my receiver? do i need more watts?. Or maybe i need to get them checked out like you did. Help
    hi, I have the 40-4024 40-4029 realistic sta 2100 and 2000d.
    the 40-4024 requires more power simply because the density of the laminae woofer. I'm finally not agree to modify any be the case. It just takes a good vintage amp! recend forget amp except a $ 3000 and more. For 40-4029 are easier to play. I have 12s, 120s, api sd SMT 1200 MKII speakers. they like property (28Hz, 28Hz-20kHz ± 3 dB. 1.1 coil and 2100Hz, 120 ± 3.5 db 28 Hz -18 kHz, 101 dB for the 12s) (26Hz, 26Hz-20kHz ± 3 dB. 1.1 coil and 2050hz, 120 ± 3.5 db 28 Hz -18 kHz, 101.5 db) and similar SMT 1200. the sd are easier to play than mach one especially 40-4024. For the api 12s, 120s did with all the amp. With the recent amp not expect has mirache because this is the **** for the stereo.
    As I tell the receiver sta 2000 or 2000d is for mach one! but the station in 2100 or sta2100d Because of the property. sta-2100-2500Hz frequency balance response 15 ± 2 db at 10 watts. beautifull bass is full. the sta 2000d or 2000 the frequency balance is 15-20 hz 00 ± 2 dB at 5 watts. 2080 and the station is 15-25000HZ hz ± 1 db! 2080 is year 1980, but is still well and beautiful!

    I suggest you invest on vinstage amp, pioneer sansui marantz realistic ... and do not break your mach one. the fist reason mach one value and will keep going as if it worth alot moin on the walk to. normal to want to dodge half-gm! the test result still depends on the amp use! For me, I have decided not to do because of the good mix amp.

  18. #43
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    Found this thread via google and joined this message board looking for help.

    I have a pair of the 4029's passed down from the in laws and they sounded great for the last few years but recently one of them has started having a distorted sound in the mid range. I don't think it's the 15" woofers that are distorting. Any suggestions? I'd love to fix these if it didn't cost too much. Any ballpark idea how much it would cost to have it professionally repaired?

  19. #44
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    Hello! For the price again it all depends! I would find one that do beautiful jobs. Your mid finger to break or am again! Before that, I suggest you check the contour of the woofer. Sometimes after 35 years of schoolyard foarm cone simply! just the reattached. it creates a breakdown because the cone vibrates against the membrane.

  20. #45
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    So I just played around with the speaker a bit and the problem is that some of the foam ring around the paper speaker is missing. If I apply light pressure with my finger to the edge of the speaker the bass sounds great. Guess I will attempt to repair.

    Before I order, any idea why the big price difference?

    15" Mach I Speaker Repair Kit For Replacing Foam Surrounds - Realistic Mach I, Mach 1, Mach One

    Radio Shack Speaker Foam Edge Repair Kit, Mach One, Mach Two, FSK-15M
    Last edited by Guncho; 12-15-2013 at 01:11 AM.

  21. #46
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    hi! jte council looks at video on the net! some removed the cap from the center to be sure to be well enligne. are more or moin 1 mm of play! some are able to do without removing the cap! must be cleaned (although clean) the outline and gently come! cole the party going in dessou the cone first. waiting 5 minutes or lendement and glue the remaining contour. does not wait before pasted put a weight on the speaker but really in the center! such a cup and you should be okay. go there this place! but you need it to feel good focus! go gently and appote you around! For cons, I suggest you a professional. be honest with you even your ability! the precission is pert because there faudras pay again to do so if it is bad! and the unit price is the same but the shipping that'll change! look on ebay!

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