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Thread: Dayton III's

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    Dayton III's

    I bought the kit to build the Dayton 3's (about 2 years ago)and screwed up in making the cabinents. I'm just wondering if they are worth giving it another shot, or maybe I should sell the kit and just buy some entry level B&W's or maybe some Wharfedales...What speakers do you(those of you that are familiar with the Dayton III's) do you think they compare with? Also, does anyone know where I can find the pre-assembled cabinents for these? Cheers WS

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    Pre-assembled cabinets? Not likely, but you might check Parts Express, they have some cabinets.

    Or, you could probably make use of one of the smaller pre-fab cabinets and build the Dayton Budget's (D2's)_, which are similar to the BR-1's.

    The DIII's IMO compare very well with the Paradigm Monitor 5's IMO. I use my cousin's Monitor 5's for alot of comparisons. There's alot more bass punch, in the DIII's, and a bit less high end detail (and sibilance/harshness) however...the midrange is a wee bit better IMO, but I found the imaging about equal. The soundstage is forward on both speakers in my opinion.

    I'd say you'd be looking at forking out $600-$800 for comparable speakers sound-wise (looks is entirely up to you) but I doubt you'd get the bass performance at that price. The D3's POUND! Bass is clearly it's strong point. The only downside is these are 4 ohm speakers, so make sure your amp/receiver is up to the task.

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    Thanks for the response....What's a good A/V reciever that will push 4 ohms(I'd prefer something musical and warm sounding)...I was looking at the HK 630, but I think that runs 8ohms at 75 watts high current. I'm thinking I'll have a cabinent shop cut out the MDF for me and have a buddy help me wire the x-overs

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    wsdavies: I've run 4 ohms speakers of Marantz, Yamaha, and HK a/v receivers. Warm sounding, and enough juice to drive 4 ohm loads...that HK is EXACTLY what I was thinking. The 630 is a good choice, very powerful. You could probably go down a few steps and easily get by, the D3's are pretty efficient.
    I just might be a bit hesitant to rock the neighborhood with a Sony or Kenwood entry level unit.

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    Very cool...The 630 is on sale for 780 on Amazon...which seems like a steal...I don't really care about 7.1...My first goal is 2 channel sound and then to built up to 5.1 HT...Music always comes first for me...I also have the Dayton DVC 12 inch sub that I've been debating whether to run in my house or in my ride...Do the Daytons really need a sub with the Bass the put off? Is it mid bass..or low bass? Cheers WS....

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    I don't consider midbass until at least 120 Hz...maybe higher...so it's definitely low.
    I'd recommend a subwoofer though, the bass starts to fall out in the 37 Hz area, and you'll want a sub that can fill in the bottom octave down to 20 Hz. I don't know how discriminating your tastes are, but you should be able to make a go of it with the 12" DVC.

    Good luck.

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    Alright brother...I just ordered the AVR 630...If the Daytons don't work out what front speakers would match up well with the 630? The B&W 600 series???

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    To be truthful, I don't think you'll have an issue with any speaker, the H/K isn't so warm that it'll ruin a speaker or anything....find some speakers you like, and try them out.
    I just replaced my Paradigm Studio 40's and 20's with the Ar.com DIY speakers by Ed Frias. These can be had for about $340 a pair, compared to $1200 for my Studio's. I've also built the PeeCreek that's really popular at the Parts Express forum which uses the same woofer as the Ar.com DIY's, but isn't quite as detailed or as competent and creating a soundstage in my opinion. But it uses the Parts Express pre-fab cabinets and can be built just a bit cheaper I think...an excellent idea for a project as well.

    For the money though, the D3's are tough to beat. I can't think of a speaker that rocks as hard but doesn't sacrifice detail like the DIII's. Not the last word in resolution, but solid bass that you don't usually see in speakers under $500.

    Enjoy the H/K.
    Let us know how the D3's go (try the DIY forum).

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    Kex

    Have you ever heard the SVS PB10-ISD? If so how would you rate it against the 12" or 15" D3? Maybe Wooch would know. If it's even close in comparison it seems like a good deal at $430. Also, is it a general rule of thumb that a larger driver can produce lower frequencies?

    Mike

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    Driver size and frequency response use to be more related int he past, but people are really doing some amazing things with cabinet and port tunings these days. Can't say I've heard this SVS sub, but I've heard a few others...To me they're right up there with Hsu Research, Velodyne, and Paradigm in offering the best value in commercial subs.

    The Titanic kits from Parts Express are sealed subs, and will likely be much better suited for musical listening, while offering comparable performance for HT. You either prefer sealed subs, or you don't. To me they're just better, I feel you get a more controlled and accurate response. I also find them to have more "punch" and impact...just my preference. Which is odd, since I don't have a preference for sealed vs. ported speakers.

    The Titanic kits have a lot more power, and I'd argue would acheive a tighter, more accurate bass sound than this SVS unit just looking at it, based on my experience with ported subs. Better sound quality. That being said, this looks like a good subwoofer. If you're not keen on building your own, it might be the way to go, I think if you use it mostly for home theater, it be a good buy.

    Not sure this helps any.

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    My set up is used mainly for HT, probably 95%. (For the most part I normally only listen to music while driving.) Since you said the PE kits will likely be better suited for music does that mean I should look at something else, such as that SVS. I generally like earthshattering bass and being that it will be used mostly for HT it doesn't have to be too tight in response, correct? Also, for my tastes I'm assuming ported would do better for what I'm looking for, yes?

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    Not exactly...I'd recommend you go out and demo some sealed vs. ported subs to get a feeling for what I mean. IMO, a good sealed sub is as good (or better) for HT as a ported sub with the same response, power, but better for the more punchy, dynamic demands of music...hard to describe...sometimes you get some overhang from the port. For explosions, and rumbles, porteds are fine (and are actually quite good for music too), but sealed cabinets offer an improvment IMO.
    I think you have the option of buying either or.
    The SVS is certainly more convenient, since it's already assembled...the PE kits have a larger driver and more power though...I'd argue this will do better at creating the earth-shattering bass you're looking for. The SVS might be enough for your purposes though, you'll have to make that decision.

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