Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 50

Thread: Speaker Wires

  1. #1
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    201

    Speaker Wires

    I am moving my speakers and need longer wire lengths. I am thinking of splicing the additional length needed. This will save me the trouble of rerouting the wires. Is it OK to use liquid solder at the connection. Will this degrade the sound.

  2. #2
    Vinyl Fundamentalist Forums Moderator poppachubby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Analog Synagogue
    Posts
    4,363
    I posted a thread about this in the cable section. Use either solder or a good splice connect. I would also recommend some heat shrink to finish it, this will protect it from shorts and corrosion.

  3. #3
    PDN
    PDN is offline
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    172
    Mingus, most experts in hi end audio will advise against splicing loudspeaker wire together due to possible increased impedance. Read the thread by poppachubby though. Good feedback. Could be argued but in all my years in this hobby, never heard it ever recommended.

  4. #4
    Suspended markw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Noo Joisey. Youse got a problem wit dat?
    Posts
    4,659
    Quote Originally Posted by PDN
    Mingus, most experts in hi end audio will advise against splicing loudspeaker wire together due to possible increased impedance. Read the thread by poppachubby though. Good feedback. Could be argued but in all my years in this hobby, never heard it ever recommended.
    And, in all my years in this hobby, I've never heard any detrimental effects from a PROPERLY done splice.

    I'v e read the theory and find it interesting, but never experienced it in the real world

    Oh, I agree with PC. I've never used "liquid solder" so I'd most likely recommend sticking to what he said.

  5. #5
    3db
    3db is offline
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    527
    A big +1 ... a proper splice will not affect impedance and the shrink wrap mentioned by PC is a good measure of saftey thrown in.

  6. #6
    nightflier
    Guest

    Odd...

    Quote Originally Posted by PDN
    Mingus, most experts in hi end audio will advise against splicing loudspeaker wire together due to possible increased impedance. Read the thread by poppachubby though. Good feedback. Could be argued but in all my years in this hobby, never heard it ever recommended.
    Isn't splicing exactly what you have to do with Magnepans that have captive wires? They assured me that there were no impedance issues with this.

  7. #7
    Shostakovich fan Feanor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    8,127
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    I am moving my speakers and need longer wire lengths. I am thinking of splicing the additional length needed. This will save me the trouble of rerouting the wires. Is it OK to use liquid solder at the connection. Will this degrade the sound.
    What is 'liquid solder'?

  8. #8
    _ Luvin Da Blues's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    _
    Posts
    1,951
    Quote Originally Posted by Feanor
    What is 'liquid solder'?

    Fancy one part epoxy. Crappy stuff that doesn't work worth a damn for electrical applications.
    Back in my day, we had nine planets.

  9. #9
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    I am moving my speakers and need longer wire lengths. I am thinking of splicing the additional length needed. This will save me the trouble of rerouting the wires. Is it OK to use liquid solder at the connection. Will this degrade the sound.
    If you can't borrow a solder iron use a crimp on barrel splice (use the right tool, do not flatten the joint with a pair or ordinary pliers) or use a twist on wire nut.

    Do not use "liquid solder"!
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  10. #10
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    18
    High quality silver solder, crimping or a twist on wire nut would all be preferable to using "liquid solder".

    BTW, what gauge of wire are you using and how much length are you going to add?

  11. #11
    Forum Regular pixelthis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    tuscaloosa
    Posts
    5,528

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by ren9328
    High quality silver solder, crimping or a twist on wire nut would all be preferable to using "liquid solder".

    BTW, what gauge of wire are you using and how much length are you going to add?
    Two important questions that havent been asked yet.
    However I AM IN THE "NO SOLDER crowd.
    Is more trouble and expense, but definately worth it.
    Go through the trouble now so you wont have to in the future.
    Besides, its an exelent chance to upgrade your speaker wires.
    LG 42", integra 6.9, B&W 602s2, CC6 center, dm305rears, b&w
    sub asw2500
    Panny DVDA player
    sharp Aquos BLU player
    pronto remote, technics antique direct drive TT
    Samsung SACD/DVDA player
    emotiva upa-2 two channel amp

  12. #12
    Sgt. At Arms Worf101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Troy, New York
    Posts
    4,288

    Google it...

    As a Combat Engineer we had to not only be able to splice Det cord but electric systems as well. Our lives depended on correct splicing of electrical systems. The standard "Western Union" slice wrapped with electrical tape afterwards has never failed me. I'm still alive. Google it.

    Worf

  13. #13
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    201
    Last week I was going to splice the wire as PC suggested but after thinking about it I decided to replace the speaker wires. Now the question is what speaker wires to use. I was at Home Depot over the weekend and saw racks of speaker wires. Are these adaquate or should I visit a store that specializes in audio/video equipment.

  14. #14
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    Last week I was going to splice the wire as PC suggested but after thinking about it I decided to replace the speaker wires. Now the question is what speaker wires to use. I was at Home Depot over the weekend and saw racks of speaker wires. Are these adaquate or should I visit a store that specializes in audio/video equipment.
    Hoo boy, an invitation to cable wars!

    I use Cardas wire, made my own cables. Cardas has a multi strand Litz like wire in a number of gauges and Cardas sells good lugs for a little less than the high priced spread.

    I use Michael Percy as my supplier, honest prompt and an audiophile himself. Always happy to answer questions. He also handles wire from other suppliers, in my opinion they didn't perform as well as Cardas in head to head tests.

    http://www.percyaudio.com/ accepts PayPal with reasonable shipping charges.

    I've also used this Radio Shack for home theater, damn good for dirt cheap.
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104178
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  15. #15
    Vinyl Fundamentalist Forums Moderator poppachubby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Analog Synagogue
    Posts
    4,363
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    Last week I was going to splice the wire as PC suggested but after thinking about it I decided to replace the speaker wires. Now the question is what speaker wires to use. I was at Home Depot over the weekend and saw racks of speaker wires. Are these adaquate or should I visit a store that specializes in audio/video equipment.
    If you really want to make a move, read up on solid core. Might be a nice time to research and find something different for yourself. Solid core can be had for quite cheap, Home Depot could probably supply you.

  16. #16
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by poppachubby
    If you really want to make a move, read up on solid core. Might be a nice time to research and find something different for yourself. Solid core can be had for quite cheap, Home Depot could probably supply you.
    Almost all solid core wire is an alloy containing steel to reduce stretch. Whether or not this is an issue is for each audiophile decide.
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  17. #17
    Forum Regular
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    201
    Good suggestions. The thing with solid vs stranded wires, will I hear a difference.

  18. #18
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    Good suggestions. The thing with solid vs stranded wires, will I hear a difference.
    Depends on your system and your ears. Probably no difference on home theater receiver type systems. IMHO not recommended for high priced systems. The steel has magnetic domains, they have some hysteresis as they flip, this will add some broad band noise to tiny signals and might contribute to listener fatigue.

    This is my opinion, not everyone agrees. The survival of so many cable companies tells me there is something there. Audible ? Your mileage may vary.
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  19. #19
    Forum Regular blackraven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    St. Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    5,421
    Just buy some wire from bluejeanscable.com Its Belden wire and inexpensive and sounds good. It comes in 10, 12 and 14 gauge. Its cheaper if you buy the unterminated wire and terminate them yourself with their easy to use banana's.

    http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm
    Pass Labs X250 amp, BAT Vk-51se Preamp,
    Thorens TD-145 TT, Bellari phono preamp, Nagaoka MP-200 Cartridge
    Magnepan QR1.6 speakers
    Luxman DA-06 DAC
    Van Alstine Ultra Plus Hybrid Tube DAC
    Dual Martin Logan Original Dynamo Subs
    Parasound A21 amp
    Vintage Luxman T-110 tuner
    Magnepan MMG's, Grant Fidelity DAC-11, Class D CDA254 amp
    Monitor Audio S1 speakers, PSB B6 speakers
    Vintage Technic's Integrated amp
    Music Hall 25.2 CDP
    Adcom GFR 700 AVR
    Cables- Cardas, Silnote, BJC
    Velodyne CHT 8 sub

  20. #20
    frenchmon frenchmon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    St. Charles Mo
    Posts
    3,271
    Quote Originally Posted by Mingus
    Last week I was going to splice the wire as PC suggested but after thinking about it I decided to replace the speaker wires. Now the question is what speaker wires to use. I was at Home Depot over the weekend and saw racks of speaker wires. Are these adaquate or should I visit a store that specializes in audio/video equipment.
    Whats your budget? I would recommend that you read up on cable and speaker wire before you make a purchase. There is a wire for your budget, but you have to be happy with it. If you buy online, make sure you get the return policy before you buy just in case you dont like its sound. I did my research and decided to go with Analysis Plus interconnects and speaker wire...and I am happy I did.

    http://www.analysis-plus.com/prod_spkrcable.html



    frenchmon
    Music...let it into your soul and be moved....with Canton...Pure Music


    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    W10 i5 Quad core processor 8GB RAM/Jriver 20/ Fidelizer Optimizer/ iFI Micro DSD DAC-iUSB 3.0/Vincent SA - T1/Vincent SP-331 MK /MMF-7.1/2M BLACK/MS Phenomena ll+/Canton Vento 830.2

  21. #21
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    While bananas are inexpensive and convenient, the gold plating tends to come off after a few insertions.
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  22. #22
    Vinyl Fundamentalist Forums Moderator poppachubby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Analog Synagogue
    Posts
    4,363
    There's always a naysayer...Mingus, here's some info on solid core. BTW, it's copper NOT steel. Malcolm Omar Hawksford did the only comprehensive, scientific study on IC's in England. He published his findings in a paper called the Essex Echo.

    Stereophile has the article avaialble on their site but just in case they've done any editing, here's the link to Essex University in the UK.

    http://www.essex.ac.uk/ese/research/...bles_1985).pdf

    Some of it is a little heady, however I think his conclusions are pretty direct. He finds that versus stranded, copper solid core is the best carrier of an audio signal.

    Of course, it all comes down to your ears. I would agree with Herman on the H/T matter, probably not worth it but with a 2-channel system, for sure.

    The thing that manufacturers don't want you to know, is that solid core is at the very least, equal in quality to stranded. Copper solid core can be had for very cheap from most hardware stores. Mr. Hawksford suggests that a high gauge is best. Even better for the consumer!

    Anyhow Mingus, I don't want to sway you, I still use stranded and love the results. I also use solid core and love that too.

  23. #23
    Forum Regular hermanv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by poppachubby
    There's always a naysayer...Mingus, here's some info on solid core. BTW, it's copper NOT steel. Malcolm Omar Hawksford did the only comprehensive, scientific study on IC's in England. He published his findings in a paper called the Essex Echo.
    I didn't say it was steel wire I said there was often a steel alloy in coper wire, the amount is tiny probably under 0.05%. Only you can decide if your source is free of alloys and whether or not any of this is audible. I have been an advocate that wires are important and for speakers low resistance is very important. I do agree that dollar for dollar solid wire is the lowest cost lowered resistance wire.

    There is a reason specialty wire(cable) companies advertise 4 or 5 nines copper (99.99% or 99.999%) and charge extra for it. Electrical circuits can be explained in a fairly simple way, but a true specialist will tell you the devil is in the details.

    Most systems and many listeners can not discern these things and the specialty wires certainly are not cheap, don't invest your hard earned money in them if you borrow some high priced cables and hear nothing different.
    Herman;

    My stuff:
    Olive Musica/transport and server
    Mark Levinson No.360S D to A
    Passive pre (homemade; Shallco, Vishay, Cardas wire/connectors)
    Cardas Golden Presence IC
    Pass Labs X250
    Martin Logan ReQuests.

  24. #24
    Vinyl Fundamentalist Forums Moderator poppachubby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Analog Synagogue
    Posts
    4,363
    Quote Originally Posted by hermanv

    Most systems and many listeners can not discern these things and the specialty wires certainly are not cheap, don't invest your hard earned money in them if you borrow some high priced cables and hear nothing different.
    Agreed. I think if the cables can be obtained for a reasonable price, one that competes with typical stranded models, why not?!? Whether or not the system can reveal the improvement is unimportant.

    The system will use the IC's to the greatest of it's ability. However, should an upgrade occur, the IC's will not only be ready, they will be greedily salivating at the sight of improved output.

    What I DON"T agree with, is the spending of a heap of cash for this non-result. In this case, spend to the capability of the output.

    Mingus, I was at Home Depot myself today. For $2.00/Metre, they had 22 gauge solid core, each strand was in a jacket and then the pair were in a nice tough casing. In Imperial this would work out to roughly $0.61/foot. Its purpose was probably for lighting, but I'm not sure. Essentially these are ready to go, you could add termination but I personally wouldn't.

    I bought 60 feet of 12 gauge today. No-name stranded stuff. Hooked up from an ad in the local newspaper. He was asking $25 CDN but I talked him down to $20. I'm going to use it for my H/T system which now has unterminated 16 gauge. This'll be the last upgrade to the H/T. He had them in 4 strands of 15 feet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Speaker Wires-dsc02643.jpg  

  25. #25
    Vinyl Fundamentalist Forums Moderator poppachubby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Analog Synagogue
    Posts
    4,363
    OK Mingus, I made these solid core. Cheap and easy. Worth the time to try and see what you think. If you like them, you've hit easy street.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Speaker Wires-dsc02646.jpg  

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •