Modifying powercords

[skeptic]

You'll need to use a chassis punch to cut a clean hole of the right size and shape. You have to drill a pilot hole first. If you know someone with such a tool borrow it. It will make a nice clean cut. File off any sharp edges or any small pieces of sheet metal not cleanly removed with a rat tail file. You may also be able to use a hole saw drill bit to make the hole. Try Hubbell for an IEC chassis mount male plug socket to mate the female connector on the IEC power cord. Any good electrical supply house should carry them and several other brands. There is probably hardware available in some high end audio retailr store especially if they do repairs on site although their prices will undoubtedly be much higher. Choose a spot in the amplifier where there is plenty of clearance inside. This can be difficult or impossible depending on how tight it is in your amplifier. If you can get a socket where there are no live exposed parts that will fit in your amplifier, that would be best. If this is impractical because the internal layout is too tight, try to find a socket that will surface mount on the outside back of the chassis. Drill a large enough hole for a rubber gromment or bushing to protect the wire from being abraided and still let the cord through to the inside. If the socket requires being secured with sheet metal screws or machine screws and nuts, be sure you pick a spot with available clearance for that too. Again, try to be very careful to be certain that there are no live exposed parts, no stray strands of wire, and no short circuits to the chassis at either end. you may have to remove and replace the existing leads to the on/off switch and transformer primary because they are too short to reach the new socket. At that end, you will probably have to solder new leads on and at the other, you will solder or screw the leads to the socket depending on what it requires. Try to route the power cord away from any signal wires. If there are exposed live parts, you may want to insulate them. Plastic electrical tape is fair but not great. Wrap the exposed parts several times to be sure they are insulated. Heat shrink tubing is much better. Since most people don't have a heat gun, a high powered blow dryer will do just fine for shrinking it. If you use heat shrink, try to attach the wires to the socket before you install it in the amplifier. This way you will avoid accidentally heating and damaging other electronic components.

Personally I do not recommend that you do this. I don't think it will improve your equipment performance but many people are determined to experiment even thought they will learn an expensvie lesson. Also, be aware that you are voiding any manufacturer's warranty and probably the UL listing of the equipment. You assume full responsibility for any consequences. This is not like experimenting with speaker wire or interconnects. If you don't know what you are doing, are not handy with tools, or just plain careless, you have the possibility of severely injuring or killing yourself or someone else. If you are not familiar with working with hand tools and small electrical appliances, get help from someone who is or at least have someone check your work before you plug it into a wall outlet. You can also check your own work with an ohmmeter, continuity checker, or multimeter. both power and neutral leads should be open to the chassis ground. They should show continuity with each other when the power on/off switch is on and open when it is off. If there is a ground pin, it should show continuity to the chassis and open to both the hot and neutral legs always. As a final check, be sure there are no stray pieces of wire, solder or other foreign debris inside your amplifier. Turn it upside down and shake out anything loose before you put the cover back on. Good Luck.