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  1. #1
    Forum Regular thepogue's Avatar
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    I think it's just a matter of supply and demand

    and some think that vintage equipment is better built than what we see out there today! I'm not really in that camp but I've owned an Sansui 7000 receiver that I picked up in '79 and sold it in 84ish (I think it was 185 wpc and none were as purddy IMO). My friend still runs that for 2 channel and she's still running strong. I really can't speak for all other amps but I do own Adcom and Carvers and I feel they were good used buys...in fact in most audio circles the triple nickles (and most there other efforts) are at the lower end of the hi-fi food chain...wanna-be's so to speak....also for the most part the "hi-fi" world shuns using PA equipment for home use...this just might be the snob factor I'm not sure but I made the foolish mistake of going to AA and asking if I could use an older Peavy amp to power speakers and got ice poured on me head...oh well....
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  2. #2
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    I've seen the PA amp thing brought up before too. What's the difference between PA amps and home audio amps? In fact, a lot of the amps I've been looking at have been classified as PA amps, and I think that's because of the amount of power I'm looking for (500W-800W).

  3. #3
    RGA
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    Grampi if you want to save money on buying power amplifiers try buying sensitive speakers. Contrary to popular belief there is ZERO advantage in buying speakers that are sensitive and thus 20 watts is more than you'll ever need. And if a sub is a must buy a powered one.

    You say a few posts up that you NEED a 400 watt amp? Why? That is exactly double the perceived volume level over a 40 Watt amp. If my speakers are rated 10db more sensitive than yours I will get the same loudness level with 40 watts that you will achieve with 400Watts.

    Then you can buy yourself a $20.00 integrated amp that is 20 years old.

    More watts doesn't mean better sound...generally the higher the watt number the worse the amp actually sounds in my experience. Bryston and Krell are exceptions along with many others but none would be my first hoice because to get them to sound that good well costsl like a Bryston and a Krell. The same can be had for 1/5 to 1/10 their price if you choose speakers wisely.

    A good old Khorn needs all of 3 watts to play very loud with loads of dynamic headroom and will better practically ALL speeakers rated at 85 db and a 500 watt amp. The K horn with 3 watts will probably still hit a 112db. The 85db speaker to get the same would need 512 watts.

    Sensitivity and efficiency.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGA
    Grampi if you want to save money on buying power amplifiers try buying sensitive speakers. Contrary to popular belief there is ZERO advantage in buying speakers that are sensitive and thus 20 watts is more than you'll ever need. And if a sub is a must buy a powered one.

    You say a few posts up that you NEED a 400 watt amp? Why? That is exactly double the perceived volume level over a 40 Watt amp. If my speakers are rated 10db more sensitive than yours I will get the same loudness level with 40 watts that you will achieve with 400Watts.

    Then you can buy yourself a $20.00 integrated amp that is 20 years old.

    More watts doesn't mean better sound...generally the higher the watt number the worse the amp actually sounds in my experience. Bryston and Krell are exceptions along with many others but none would be my first hoice because to get them to sound that good well costsl like a Bryston and a Krell. The same can be had for 1/5 to 1/10 their price if you choose speakers wisely.

    A good old Khorn needs all of 3 watts to play very loud with loads of dynamic headroom and will better practically ALL speeakers rated at 85 db and a 500 watt amp. The K horn with 3 watts will probably still hit a 112db. The 85db speaker to get the same would need 512 watts.

    Sensitivity and efficiency.
    I certainly understand what you're saying about efficiency, but I doubt I'm going to be able to run the Tempest sub in my DIY HT enclosure with a 20 watt amp. I'm running it now with 250 watts and I'm not happy with it's performance. I think the direction I need to go with this driver is to put it in a high "Q" enclosure and run it with a lot of power. The driver is rated for 750 watts, and I want an amp capable of this much power. I like tight, punchy bass and right now I'm not getting it. I believe a high "Q" sealed enclosure with a lot of power will give me what I'm looking for.

  5. #5
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    I've always liked sealed enclosures better

    And getting enough power to it is also essential. Grampi, buy an old DC300A and if you don't like it, I'll buy it as long as it's under $300. How's that? Buy one that is guaranteed that if it does not work, you can get your money back. This should not be a problem as most of them are still working. I will buy it if you don't like it.
    Bill

  6. #6
    DIY Dude poneal's Avatar
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    So Grampi, what the status on your amp decison? Haven't heard anything for awhile now. Curious minds wanna know.

  7. #7
    DIY Dude poneal's Avatar
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    Beware, PA amps normally only go down to 50Hz, which is the lowest the voice can go. Since your driving a subwoofer, you want to be able to amplify sound down to at least 20Hz. I'm not saying all PA amps only go to 50Hz, but make sure you check the specs to see if they can go down to 20Hz.

  8. #8
    Forum Regular FLZapped's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poneal
    Beware, PA amps normally only go down to 50Hz, which is the lowest the voice can go. Since your driving a subwoofer, you want to be able to amplify sound down to at least 20Hz. I'm not saying all PA amps only go to 50Hz, but make sure you check the specs to see if they can go down to 20Hz.

    Huh? Maybe a 60's vintage Bogen. -Bruce

  9. #9
    The Collector
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    Quote Originally Posted by poneal
    Beware, PA amps normally only go down to 50Hz, which is the lowest the voice can go. Since your driving a subwoofer, you want to be able to amplify sound down to at least 20Hz. I'm not saying all PA amps only go to 50Hz, but make sure you check the specs to see if they can go down to 20Hz.
    I haven't seen an amp that doesn't produce below 50Hz in a long long time. I work with Pro Audio amps all day long it's my job and they normally have an amazing low frequency response. Thats why I can pump 18Hz into the Community Quad 15" VBS's all day Thats a fun thing to do.

    Grampi, If you want the gas pedal and you are looking to spend the money the Crown K1 or K2 will be a great choice even though they are a little more than what you are looking for in power. If you dont mind buying used look at HTICS's website and see what they have. Another suggestion yet a little expensive is a Lab Gruppen

  10. #10
    DIY Dude poneal's Avatar
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    The PA I referenced means Public Announcing (PA). I think you thought I meant Professional Audio. I may have misinterpreted the question thinking Grampi meant Public Announcing Systems when actually he meant professional audio. Sorry for the confusion. In the case of professional audio amps, I think this is what you need to get in order to drive the subwoofer at the power he needs. Sorry for any miscommunication there. Cheers. Paul.

  11. #11
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    My status is basically nothing right now. I in the middle of a full time class and haven't had any time to do anything. When I do, I'll post a message.

  12. #12
    DIY Dude poneal's Avatar
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    Lotsa wasted time on this thread....

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