re: speaker wire identification
TO CORCAA,
IF YOU HAVE PICTURES OF YOUR LOUDSPEAKERS, YOU CAN SEND IT TO MY EMAIL, I MAYBE ABLE TO FIGURE IT OUT FOR YOU...
I HAVE REPAIRED LOUDSPEAKERS BEFORE OF CONVENTIONAL DESIGN.
I ALSO HAVE A BACKGROUND IN TESTING IN ELECTRONICS, AND CLASS H AMPLIFIER BACKGROUND IN THE PAST. I AM ALSO A FORMER HIGH END HOME THEATER INSTALLER.
I HAVE SO MANY LOUDSPEAKER COLLECTIONS FROM ELECTROSTATS TO DYNAMIC TO COHERENT LINE WALSH DESIGN TO LINAEUM TWEETERS AND RIBBONS, IF I CAN BE OF HELP I WOULD LIKE TO HELP YOU.
NORMALLY WHEN YOU HAVE THAT MANY COLOR CODES, BOTH THE HIGH RANGE AND LOWER RANGE ARE SEPARATED FOR BI WIRING OR BI AMPING.
WHAT YOU MEANT BY DRIVER IS WOOFER....because a driver is a general term for speakers: you either have a tweeter, midrange or woofer as drivers which covers full range or 3 way. The purpose of the crossover is to split the frequency range into 3 distinct currents which separates them into high, mid and low audible range once it is filtered out thru the crossover's capacitors/coil....
the red wire is usually the positive that goes to the tweeter terminal and the white on this configuration to the negative terminal of the tweeter. The blue goes to the woofer's positive terminal, while the black goes to the negative terminal.
Your best bet here is to compare both speaker wiring by opening the NON DAMAGED OR BROKEN PAIR...that is the easiest way. You can always test the wires which gets a little tricky if you don't know what you are doing thru a multimeter.
Writing to the manufacturer like those in the forum suggested is your BEST OPTION!
If I had pictures of the internal component, i can be of help....simply trying to visualize from paragraphs is a little on the guessing side?
bruceleeclone@sbcglobal.net if you like me to look at it if you have pictures, otherwise, contact the manufacturer...or do the suggested recommendation by those in the forum including myself.