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  1. #1
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    Question subwoofer for music

    im looking for a good subwoofer for home use. i have a polk and a bose sub but when the volume gets loud, you barely hear them. i'm looking for something that you can feel but sounds good too. i listen to all types of music. from punk-acustic-rap

  2. #2
    Forum Regular harley .guy07's Avatar
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    I would give a good look at SVS, Their subs seem to be able to deliver the goods for both theater and music and a lot of people use them. A music only sub company would be REL, they specialize in music only subwoofers.

    Marantz SR5008(HT)
    Nu Force P8 Preamp (2 channel)
    Pass Labs X150.5(2 channel)
    Adcom 545 mk2 power amp(rear channel amp)
    Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S Mains Speakers
    Dayton 8" HO custom sealed subwoofer(2 channel)
    Yamaha NS-c444 center channel
    Emotiva ERD-1 surround speakers
    JBL e250p subwoofer highly modified
    Samsung 46" LED TV
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  3. #3
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    Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

    [IMG]gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG[/IMG]

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
    Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

    [IMG]gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG[/IMG]
    How do you de-couple the mains sitting on top?

  5. #5
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    The speakers on top ( full range single driver Tektons although I use several others ) are driven by a single ended tube amp while each bass driver is driven by it's own mono-block amp ( daisy chained together ) with built-in crossovers which I set at 80hz. The H-frame bass drivers are open in the rear and qualify as open baffles. I do a split feed of the CD signal. I probably have maybe $350 invested in the pair for the plywood, bass drivers and amps. The bass sounds better than I ever could have imagined.

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  7. #7
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    De-couple? The Tektons rest on a pad but since the H-frames don't vibrate like a sub ( a product of being open baffled ) it's not necessy as they act like a heavy speaker stand.

    Sometimes I can post a picture and sometimes not.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
    De-couple? The Tektons rest on a pad but since the H-frames don't vibrate like a sub ( a product of being open baffled ) it's not necessy as they act like a heavy speaker stand.

    Sometimes I can post a picture and sometimes not.
    Yeah, hard to see from the smaller one in the link. Next question, how do you handle all the hard tile and glass in that room.

  9. #9
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    That's not my listening room that's my picture taking room.

    Open baffle speakers, however, aren't nearly so room dependent as conventional speakers.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
    That's not my listening room that's my picture taking room.

    Open baffle speakers, however, aren't nearly so room dependent as conventional speakers.
    Thanks for the answers. Nice looking setup and nice room!

  11. #11
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    I have a sony 12

  12. #12
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    what kind of watts should i look for for a large room?

  13. #13
    Forum Regular harley .guy07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
    Are those Dayton audio mono blocks driving those subs because I recognize the amps on the floor and from what you said it drives them well?

    Marantz SR5008(HT)
    Nu Force P8 Preamp (2 channel)
    Pass Labs X150.5(2 channel)
    Adcom 545 mk2 power amp(rear channel amp)
    Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S Mains Speakers
    Dayton 8" HO custom sealed subwoofer(2 channel)
    Yamaha NS-c444 center channel
    Emotiva ERD-1 surround speakers
    JBL e250p subwoofer highly modified
    Samsung 46" LED TV
    OPPO BDP-83 blue ray/multi format player
    ps-audio NuWave dac (2 channel)
    Dell I660 music server running fidelizer windows 8 audio optimizer
    PS Audio Quintet power center



  14. #14
    Forum Regular harley .guy07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rightaway View Post
    what kind of watts should i look for for a large room?
    Its really about how the power amp that drives the subwoofer mates with the woofer itself. Given everything else is equal more power would be better in a larger room given there is more cubic feet of room to fill with bass but I have seen subs with huge amps do bad in a large room and subs with medium powered amps do great in a large room. its really all about how well its designed and how well you integrate it into the acoustics of the room that will be the things to concentrate on.

    Marantz SR5008(HT)
    Nu Force P8 Preamp (2 channel)
    Pass Labs X150.5(2 channel)
    Adcom 545 mk2 power amp(rear channel amp)
    Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S Mains Speakers
    Dayton 8" HO custom sealed subwoofer(2 channel)
    Yamaha NS-c444 center channel
    Emotiva ERD-1 surround speakers
    JBL e250p subwoofer highly modified
    Samsung 46" LED TV
    OPPO BDP-83 blue ray/multi format player
    ps-audio NuWave dac (2 channel)
    Dell I660 music server running fidelizer windows 8 audio optimizer
    PS Audio Quintet power center



  15. #15
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    and how would i know that? is a downfacing sub better? am i looking for how big the box is?

  16. #16
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    would a Velodyne SPL-1200 make a good sub for music? it looks like it has a lot of power.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poultrygeist View Post
    Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

    [IMG]gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG[/IMG]
    I'm intrigued with the H-frames. Do you think they're quick enough for Maggies?

  18. #18
    Forum Regular Florian's Avatar
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    Its not really about speed. If the driver resonates at 40hz then it does it 40 times per second. No matter if ribbon, mylar or cone. Its how low the distortion is, overhang etc....

    A tip from my side is the Velodyne DD10 Plus or a used Rel Studio with a Lyngdorf RP1.

    Cheers
    Lots of music but not enough time for it all

  19. #19
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    i have been looking to buy used. i'm looking to spend $300ish. if any body see any, please let me know.

  20. #20
    Forum Regular blackraven's Avatar
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    The SPL series subs were very good subs. Non ported and very good sound. You will be very hard pressed to find a sub in the $300 range to compare. The SPL subs sold for $1K and higher and were phased out about 2 yrs ago. A used Velodyne DD sub will still cost over $1K, believe me, I have been looking at them for a while.

    Here are some reviews of the SPL series-

    Velodyne SPL-1200 Series II Subwoofer Review — Reviews and News from Audioholics

    Velodyne SPL-1000 Ultra review | from TechRadar UK's expert reviews of Hi-fi and AV speakers
    Pass Labs X250 amp, BAT Vk-51se Preamp,
    Thorens TD-145 TT, Bellari phono preamp, Nagaoka MP-200 Cartridge
    Magnepan QR1.6 speakers
    Luxman DA-06 DAC
    Van Alstine Ultra Plus Hybrid Tube DAC
    Dual Martin Logan Original Dynamo Subs
    Parasound A21 amp
    Vintage Luxman T-110 tuner
    Magnepan MMG's, Grant Fidelity DAC-11, Class D CDA254 amp
    Monitor Audio S1 speakers, PSB B6 speakers
    Vintage Technic's Integrated amp
    Music Hall 25.2 CDP
    Adcom GFR 700 AVR
    Cables- Cardas, Silnote, BJC
    Velodyne CHT 8 sub

  21. #21
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    The 15 inch Eminence Alphas in the H-Frames are full range bass drivers and their lighter magnets make them exceedingly fast in open baffle. They won't plumb the depths like my Sunfire but will cover the octave range of orchestral bass instruments. The lower registers of Joey DeFrancesco's Hammond B3 are a delight with the H-frames.

    My sub is a brutish 2700 watt Bob Carver Sunfire ( True Subwoofer Signature model ) which doesn't come close to the H-Frames in terms of musical bass reproduction.

  22. #22
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    One word about "fast bass" which is somewhat of a misnomer. Bass transients require quick response from the driver, a property that conflicts with design parameters that allow foundation rattling bass power. A sub with "fast bass" is merely one that responds quickly and accurately to transients. I also believe there is a decay factor present in subs which may account for the perception of slow or plodding bass.

    My H-Frames pictured in this thread are not subs and are best defined as bass augmenters.

  23. #23
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    i'm looking at one series one Velodyne SPL-1200. the series two look way better. how do they compare?

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