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  1. #26
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    gday i was under the impression that capataciters were directinonal?? would this be correct and how do i know which way to put it?? thanks

  2. #27
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    hi
    i was under the impression that capatacitors are directional? is this the case and how would i work out which end is which

  3. #28
    Forum Regular luvtolisten's Avatar
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    No, not for crossovers. You MUST use non-polar capacitors.That is capacitors that don't have a positive or negative pole. The speaker signal is AC. Either use the parts I called out earlier or do a search for "crossover capacitors" or "non polarized capacitors".

  4. #29
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    Sorry to bring an old thread to life but...
    my 20+ yearold amp has blown up/only left chanel works and i hate mono haha.
    Im finding it pretty hard to find an amplifier that will fit with the low wattage speakers. i found a 100 watt rms amp that i thought would be good but im not sure whether it will work too well any advice. Remember i have a crossover with caps so does that lower the wattage that gets to the speaker in any way

    THANKS

  5. #30
    Forum Regular luvtolisten's Avatar
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    What 100 watt amp is it? If it's a brand name you'll be fine. Most speakers are blown by amps rated at lower wattage. It's the distortion/clipping that most times causes speakers to be damaged. Although a amp maybe be rated at 20 watts, at .5% THD they can usually go higher, problem is so, does the total harmonic distortion (THD) which is usually the killer. It's not the power so much as the distortion.
    The crossover shouldn't make any difference, (as long as you used at least 50 volt bi-polar
    (non polar) caps.
    Did you ever get those RTR's going?

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvtolisten
    What 100 watt amp is it? If it's a brand name you'll be fine. Most speakers are blown by amps rated at lower wattage. It's the distortion/clipping that most times causes speakers to be damaged. Although a amp maybe be rated at 20 watts, at .5% THD they can usually go higher, problem is so, does the total harmonic distortion (THD) which is usually the killer. It's not the power so much as the distortion.
    The crossover shouldn't make any difference, (as long as you used at least 50 volt bi-polar
    (non polar) caps.
    Did you ever get those RTR's going?
    That's a Good ?, I was wondering the same thing.. Most of those RtR's used CTS woofers in them,and they are a good driver. Sounds like it was a matter of just replacing some surrounds on em. With a recap,of the crossover.

  7. #32
    Forum Regular luvtolisten's Avatar
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    In most cases, the tweeter is the weakest link. If you are concerned, you could always put in an inline fuse, (usually about 1/4 amp for the tweeter). But you should know by the loudness level if you've reached the danger zone or over driving it, so I would say it's not necessary, just a piece of mind thing. I did it with some EPI 100's I have, after talking with a former employee of EPI, only because their tweeters have a reputation of being a bit fragile side, as they get older.
    A good practice, no matter what size amp you have, is to turn the volume down to the lowest setting before you turn it off. Sometimes an amp especially the older ones, with give a last pop as it shuts down (probably the caps discharging I would imagine). Having it at it's low setting will help prevent any sudden surges as you turn it on as well, as it comes up to full power. A lot of the newer amps have built in features to avoid this, but not all the older ones. Besides, as I say, it's just a good practice.

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