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  1. #1
    2 channel guy Registered Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    2

    question about Linn Ninka bi-wiring

    I can ask to the following to Linn or my dealer on Monday, but have today(Sunday) to tinker and want to set up my Ninka's for passive bi-wiring.

    I removed the back collars and removed the link board ---there was only one as opposed to the two mentioned in the manual, and they are marked slightly differently
    than the manual. On the reverse of the one removed was Active Tri-Amp and the one showing on the speaker which can't be removed--(same for both speakers, so this is intentional set-up) has Active Tri-Amp. It occurred to me that it appears that the link board does nothing but tell you which inputs to use for the configuration--is that true? If so all I need to do is remove the righmost upper two plastic plugs and use that as the second input on the speaker for bi-wire--is this correct? Also, I guess this bring up the question, on a typical speaker, you must use jumpers when not bi-wiring so how does the Ninka compensate for this?

    Anyway, if you don't get to this until Monday, you needn't respond unless you wish--I can contact my dealer. Thanks again and happy April Fool's day. Hope I didn't sound foolish.

  2. #2
    2 channel guy Registered Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    2

    Got it figured out and working

    I thought I'd enclose the following which does explain what the link boards do and indeed in certain configurations, they serve more than just diagram the inputs.

    I was finally able to pry off the link boards from the Ninka They were reallly stuck and took little bits of the cabinet with it but no damage. These speakers are really built well. Linn in Scotland informed me that the link boards serve a function other than diagram the inputs. I wondered how this could be, but after looking carefully at the cards in high light, you can see 'jumpers' in certain configurations(there appears to be small plates underneath the surface of the board). In certain configurations such as passive single wiring or bi-amp active, these 'jumpers' come into the circuit when the lock nuts are secured to the board. On single wiring, you can see both bass and treble are linked, and with 'bi-amp active', both bass drivers are linked. So if I'd tried to use the speaker in bi-wire passive mode with the single wire board, it would have been the equivalent of bi-wiring with the single wire jumpers in place. I'm not sure what if any damage would occur, but it would not be successful bi-wiring, but now with the bi-wire board in place I am successfuly bi-wiring and the Ninka's ROCK. I know that going active is the ultimate goal for many but my Ayre AX-7e integrated is really a magical combination with the Ninka.

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