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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio amateur
I believe the opposite is true?
Here's a passage from the link below-
As for design there are a few favours to try out. Port and sealed subwoofers are the general term. Ported designs, basically have a port, that lets the sound and pressure escape to create more volume, at the cost of being “lose”. Sealed types need a lot more power, but are much more “tight” in the sound character. The best-ported designs have the driver faced downward to a dispersion plate and have the port face out the side
http://www.epinions.com/content_3281756292
Here's a second link talking about ported subs vs nonported-
http://whathifi.com/forums/145979/ShowThread.aspx
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I was actually refering to what you mentionned about small drivers moving less than larger ones.
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I meant to say that smaller drivers are more controlled than larger drivers. In essence, less sloppy.
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Here's a link on subwoofer size
"The nOrh subwoofer is designed around our philosophy, use a small woofer in a large cabinet in stereo pairs for the best performance. We use Vifa's most expensive 8 inch woofer (PL22WR09-08). We mount the woofer so that it is offset on the baffle (not centered).
Note: The reason we use small woofers is that a large woofer has more mass and therefore is slower than a smaller woofer. A large woofer is slow to start and slow to stop. A smaller woofer will react much faster. Two woofers will provide more surface area than one 12 inch woofer. Furthermore, using subwoofers in stereo pairs preserves the stereo image." http://www.norh.com/products/sub/tech.html
Here's a great link explaining subwoofer design and adjustment and placement
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=43669
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To argue with that I have something a little more technical (sorry I don't have the link):
#8 Smaller drivers sound better than bigger drivers
One of the biggest myths about woofers is that 8’s and 10’s are “tighter” and “cleaner” than 15’s or 18’s. Nothing is further from the truth. What tends to happen is that the smaller drivers have lower Q’s because manufactures tend to put large cones on smaller motors to increase SPL and sensitivity but not BL product. Well unless the motor can compensate for the extra mass it has to push, then the Qts will not be the same as the smaller drivers and ultimately the driver may not be suited for the same kinds of alignments and could ring too much and compromise the perceived sound quality. Having said that, high Qts drivers are not any less “tight” or “musical” than well dampened drivers, it’s just they require larger boxes and less internal pressure to prevent ringing. Ultimately there becomes a point where a driver really should be used in an infinite baffle where its actual Qts and Fs becomes the system Qtc and Fc. As enclosure volume decreases, Qtc increases and it will take a driver with a low Qts to make for an average Q system. So in conclusion, the only reason to use a smaller bass driver is for space, weight and potentially power considerations, but likewise, it is inappropriate to try and fit a larger driver into a space smaller than it is ideal for.
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My original point was that you will have pay out the nose for a larger sub that has the proper motor, magnet and cabinet for a large driver to give well controlled bass and not sound sloppy or boomy. Cheaper 12-15" subs usually dont have proper matching of magnets, motors or cabinets.
Here's an example of a large sub that is properly balanced
http://velodyne.com/products/specs/DD_1812_Sign.html
This beast weighs 384lbs.
So the bottom line is that I am not disagreeing with you but I still believe that when it comes to cheaper subs, smaller is better and faster.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackraven
So the bottom line is that I am not disagreeing with you but I still believe that when it comes to cheaper subs, smaller is better and faster.
I think that sums it up nicely.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackraven
...This beast weighs 384lbs...
:yikes:
Better factor in the cost of a forklift.
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