subwoofers

[spuppy517]

Yet another thread from me to show my complete ignorance about simple things.
What is the most important thing I should be looking at when picking out a subwoofer?
And also, I know it is pretty important to use the same brand when matching up, at least, the front 3 speakers of a 5.1 system, but how important is it to use same brand between your main speakers and the subwoofer? It seems to me like it wouldn't really make much a difference at all? Am I completely off?

[midfiguy]

In my opinion, it's not at all important to match the brand of sub to your other speakers. You're right about matching your speakers though.

For a sub, the main thing is, you want a sub that will play low at a decent volume, and also be able to cover the frequencies where you main speakers drop off. For example, if your mains effectively only go down to 70hz, you want to make sure you have a sub that can fill in from 70hz down to 30 or 20 or etc.

Alot of it depends also on what your budget is. There are some decent subwoofers for $250+, and there are some not so good subwoofers that cost over $1,000. Generally speaking though, the people here can lead you into the right direction of finding the top 5 subs for a given price point. Let us know what your budget is and we can lead you in that direction.

[spuppy517]

Well I don't really have a true specific range in mind but I guess I don't really wanna go over $500. Any suggestions for below that price would be awesome.

[Worf101]

HSU research makes some of the best subwoofers around irregardless of price. I own both the VTF-2 (10- incher) and the VTF-3 (12- incher) and both have provided years of superiror, trouble free bass. Look at the reviews here on this site and read the reviews on their site. Another factor, for me at least is that they've absoutely great customer support. This is just one opinion but its one based on real life use..

Da Worfster

[drseid]

I would recommend taking a look at the SVS PB10-ISD in your price range. For $429 it is going to be very hard to beat performance-wise.

It is *big* and (IMO) ugly, but SVS has invested the money where I believe they should... the sub driver and electronics.

Another possibility (especially if aesthetics are important to you) is the Rocket UFW-10 sub available from av123.com in B-stock for about $450.

That is the choice I made when buying a sub for my dad's system... The UFW-10 is small, beautifully finished in real Rosewood or Macassar Ebony, and is great for music.

Both are steals, IMO... If I were buying on HT performance alone, then I would easily go SVS (nothing like a big sub with high quality amplification for those action movie explosions).

If music and looks are more important, then the Rocket gets it done nicely, as it blends very well with most mains, and it does not get boomy with music.

---Dave

[nick250]

HSU research makes some of the best subwoofers around irregardless of price. I own both the VTF-2 (10- incher) and the VTF-3 (12- incher) and both have provided years of superiror, trouble free bass.
Da Worfster

I second HSU subs. I have had a VTF-2 for about 4 years and I find it great for music and movies.

Nick

[spuppy517]

One other question, just in general about subs.
When looking at their "stats" - what is the difference between frequency response and variable Hz crossover?
For instance if it advertises a frequency response of 32-160 Hz and a variable 60-125 Hz crossover, what exactly does that mean? Obviously I know I want it to be able very low frequencies, down even to 20 Hz if possible so what's with the 60-125 all about?

[Easy E]

Crossover is a filter to filter out all other frequencies, dont need to really pay attention to that as long as its variable the frequency repsonse matters more

[Woochifer]

One other question, just in general about subs.
When looking at their "stats" - what is the difference between frequency response and variable Hz crossover?
For instance if it advertises a frequency response of 32-160 Hz and a variable 60-125 Hz crossover, what exactly does that mean? Obviously I know I want it to be able very low frequencies, down even to 20 Hz if possible so what's with the 60-125 all about?

The frequency response refers to the range of sound that the sub is capable of outputing. But, don't rely too heavily on a frequency response spec, because there are many different ways of measuring a frequency response. Anecholic measurements will differ a lot from one taken inside of a room. The in-room measurements are the least reliable because the bass varies a lot with the room dimensions. With low bass especially, the room acoustics, placement, and listening location, can dramatically affect how it sounds. Depending on the size, your room can also really boost the low end gain, and the effect . The smaller your room is, the sooner the room gain begins as you go into the lower frequencies and the bigger the boost at the extreme low end.

The crossover refers to the range of frequencies available for a subwoofer to cut off the sound signal in order to blend the sub in with the other speakers. If you're using a home theater receiver with a subwoofer output, then you likely won't use the subwoofer's crossover because the receiver handles the bass management. In that case, you simply dial the crossover frequency all the way up (or bypass it, if the sub allows for that), and let the receiver handle the rest. In an analog two-channel system, you vary the crossover point to match your speaker's low end performance, and nowadays that's when you would more often use the subwoofer's crossover.

[Dr_Bass]

I think the best bang for the buck would be the Definitive Technology PF15+

and i don't just mean that it can just bang and boom loud which it can do with no distortion. this sub is really good with music also and at $699 Retail. it's a steal.

you can get them down to about $599 and probably a free cable with it. the mark up on def tech is 100%. i used to sell it. the dealer cost on a PF15+ is $349

here are some specs on it.

PF15TL+ Specifications:
Dimensions: 17" W x 17-5/8" D x 17-1/4" H
Frequency Response: 14 ? 150 Hz
Driver Complement: One high-definition 15" driver with polymer laminate cone
Built-in Amplifier: 500 watts RMS
Low Pass Crossover: 24 dB/octave continuously adjustable variable (40 ? 150Hz), plus direct LFE input option
High Pass Crossover: 6 db/octave at 80Hz. 12 dB/octave continuously variable (40 ? 150Hz)
Finish: black ash laminate
Weight: 67 lbs.
Retail: $699 ea.

Yet another thread from me to show my complete ignorance about simple things.
What is the most important thing I should be looking at when picking out a subwoofer?
And also, I know it is pretty important to use the same brand when matching up, at least, the front 3 speakers of a 5.1 system, but how important is it to use same brand between your main speakers and the subwoofer? It seems to me like it wouldn't really make much a difference at all? Am I completely off?

[spuppy517]

The frequency response refers to the range of sound that the sub is capable of outputing. But, don't rely too heavily on a frequency response spec, because there are many different ways of measuring a frequency response. Anecholic measurements will differ a lot from one taken inside of a room. The in-room measurements are the least reliable because the bass varies a lot with the room dimensions. With low bass especially, the room acoustics, placement, and listening location, can dramatically affect how it sounds. Depending on the size, your room can also really boost the low end gain, and the effect . The smaller your room is, the sooner the room gain begins as you go into the lower frequencies and the bigger the boost at the extreme low end.

The crossover refers to the range of frequencies available for a subwoofer to cut off the sound signal in order to blend the sub in with the other speakers. If you're using a home theater receiver with a subwoofer output, then you likely won't use the subwoofer's crossover because the receiver handles the bass management. In that case, you simply dial the crossover frequency all the way up (or bypass it, if the sub allows for that), and let the receiver handle the rest. In an analog two-channel system, you vary the crossover point to match your speaker's low end performance, and nowadays that's when you would more often use the subwoofer's crossover.

Thanks so much woochifer...... I believe I have it all under control now. Most subs (good ones anyway) have that whole bypass thing nowadays right? Any brands you guys know of specifically that DON'T???