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  1. #1
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    Difference in Solder

    DIY amp.

    What is the best solder to use?
    I hear that some solders flow better and are easier to work with than others. Any difference in sound also?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    DIY amp.

    What is the best solder to use?
    I hear that some solders flow better and are easier to work with than others. Any difference in sound also?

    Sound difference? While it is part of the audio mysthos, it can only be classified as

    http://chixlinx.homestead.com/files/...ightzone02.wav

    For ease of use, others may have a better one or part numbers but regular solder for audio use is fine. Check Radio Shack or an electronics parts store near you.
    mtrycrafts

  3. #3
    Forum Regular N. Abstentia's Avatar
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    I use Kester 60/40 rosin core. Good stuff! I stick with the smaller diameter because it's easier to work with.

  4. #4
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    Yeah the lesser diameters are good. I find the thick solders usually give out too much solder at once. I used to use this one solder that was pretty good, except I dont know what brand or make it is because someone just gave me a whole bunch off a spool.

    One more thing, I used to use a cheapo 6 dollar soldering pen but someone stole it. I notice that many people use the variable wattage soldering stations these days. Is there any difference? Why would anyone need a variable wattage station anyways? Is there a threat of damage to parts with higher voltages?

  5. #5
    Forum Regular N. Abstentia's Avatar
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    Yeah one of my stations has the variable heat thing. I just keep it cranked all the way up since it melts solder and heats up metal better that way

    But it would be a good idea to turn it down when working on sensitive stuff or surface mount and things like that. But regardless of variable or not, one of those Weller stations with the seperate pen is the way to go.

  6. #6
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    solder

    I *Knew* mtrycrafts woulod come up with a completely retarded reply, so here are the facts. MTry has obviously no experiance at all soldering.

    Do not use 4% silver solder, it does not flow well. 2% will work better. I prefer lead free solder from various sources, or cardas quad eutectic. They all flow well. The non-lead solder does sound better, as it conducts better than lead.

    Again, I take this opportunity to take a dump on mtrys head for his worthless, and inexperianced opinion.

  7. #7
    Suspended markw's Avatar
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    Silver solder has a higher melting temperature than the garden variety lead/tin rosin core solder. Likewise, a thinner solder will melt ald flow easier than a thicker one. A far as sound, that depends more on the existing physical connection between the two items being soldered than the solder itself.

    The main idea of soldering is to cover an already existing solid physical (and electrical) connection between two items. That is, you don't depend on the solder itself to make an electrrical or physical connection, only to cover an existing solid one in order to keep the connection physicaly in place and to keep the connection oxygen free to prevent corrosion.

    The key secret to soldering is to heat the connection, not the solder. Let the heat of the connection melt the solder, thereby letting it flow freely over the connection. You just need to cover the connection, not put gobs and gobs on it.

    Then, gingerly remove the heat source and don't disturb the connection for a minute or so. If you do, you'll possibly disturb the coverage and let air into the connection.

    Too much heat is not a good thing particularly on circuit boards where it can lift the runs and even possibly damage components. Those big ol' Weller and Wen guns are fine when doing big ol' electrolytics in a tube unit but can be a disaster on more modern stuff with physically smaller components.

    The sign of a good solder joint is that it's shiny, not dull which is a good indication that the connection was moved while it was still drying or the solder wasn't properly "flowed" over the connection due to improper heating of it. Simply melting solder and letting it drip over the connection is a big no-no also. These will result in what's known as a "cold" solder joint and is prone to failure.

    It'ss a learned skill. don't expect to do pro quality stuff at fisat. Practice makes perfect, or at least pretty good.

    I like fairly thin Kester 60/40 rosin core myself.
    Last edited by markw; 06-25-2004 at 03:15 AM.

  8. #8
    Color me gone... Resident Loser's Avatar
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    " If they asked me..."

    "...I could write a book..." or so the song goes...

    Much like after-market power cords, which only exist due to the ubquitous IEC-type connector, which itself exists as a MANUFACTURING ECONOMY, the whole solder deal seems just so much hooey...

    Blends other than standard 60/40 known as "eutectic" solders exist due to, dare I repeat myself, a manufacturing economy. Production line solder baths require joints whose plastic timeframe is limited in order to reduce and/or eliminate unacceptible reject rates, due to the inherent movement of the assembly line. Anything else is simply one of those little "factoid" acorns from whence whopping-big oak tree myths grow...

    Other various melting point eutectics are typically used for NON-ELECTRONICS assembly of difficult to construct mechanical items which must be assemled in a particular sequence.

    Lead-free formulations are simply more friendly to the environment. PERIOD. No myth, no magic! They are not as easily used due to their higher melting point and poorer wetting properties; IMHO a downside for hand soldering.

    Silver solders are typically used in medical and precision electronics. They also have a higher melting point and are more expensive. A ditto on my previous caveat. The fact that it is used in medical devices gives it a certain cache, and much like "hospital grade" electrical outlets, imbues it with just so much "audiophile grade" poppycock...

    Solder is used to hold conductors in electrical contact with each other, NOT to make the electrical contact...a clean, proper mechanical joint is the key, as solder is used to encapsulate said joint, prevent oxidiation of it and provide minor mechanical support for a connection. It is NOT used to provde main mechanical support...

    Ask a real simple question. IF(if,if,if) any of the qualities attributed to "magic" solders really existed, doesn't it stand to reason that the manufacturers would make hay with them? Not a one, not Kester, not Ersin(recently made a Loc-tite company) represent ab-so-lute-ly anything other than chemistry and specific purpose. Why? There is nothing they, as folks goverened by the FTC, can claim as otherwise.

    There are those, however, who market "eutectic" solders as though there were more to it. If you bought enough of the stuff, you could have it labeled as your own and make all sorts of slippery little allusions to sound qualtities and the like...have your own website with unsolicited testimonials and the myth-mice would beat a path to your door...

    jimHJJ(...Gee, sounds familiar...)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by N. Abstentia
    Yeah one of my stations has the variable heat thing. I just keep it cranked all the way up since it melts solder and heats up metal better that way

    But it would be a good idea to turn it down when working on sensitive stuff or surface mount and things like that. But regardless of variable or not, one of those Weller stations with the seperate pen is the way to go.
    But the sperate pen with station is so damn expensive. Someone suggested me getting the Weller (model with 5 letters), but that thing is like 150 bux or something

  10. #10
    What, me worry? piece-it pete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    One more thing, I used to use a cheapo 6 dollar soldering pen but someone stole it. I notice that many people use the variable wattage soldering stations these days. Is there any difference? Why would anyone need a variable wattage station anyways? Is there a threat of damage to parts with higher voltages?
    The guy at Rat Shack told me you can attach a high wattage dimmer switch & make your own. Sounds logical, however, grain of salt....

    Pete
    I fear explanations explanatory of things explained.
    Abraham Lincoln

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sondek
    I *Knew* mtrycrafts woulod come up with a completely retarded reply, so here are the facts. MTry has obviously no experiance at all soldering.

    Do not use 4% silver solder, it does not flow well. 2% will work better. I prefer lead free solder from various sources, or cardas quad eutectic. They all flow well. The non-lead solder does sound better, as it conducts better than lead.

    Again, I take this opportunity to take a dump on mtrys head for his worthless, and inexperianced opinion.

    Oh, please what a bore and boring response. Especially when you are trying to pass on audibility claims. Stick to something you know not something you only wish to know.
    mtrycrafts

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by piece-it pete
    The guy at Rat Shack told me you can attach a high wattage dimmer switch & make your own. Sounds logical, however, grain of salt....

    Pete
    Hmm...that sound reasonable. Could work, but there wouldnt be much point. Most of the non variable ones out in the market are low wattage like 35w. Not likely that it would get really hot anyways. Think the variable ones can reach a lot higher than this and get much hotter. I suppose the most important thing is for the handle to have good insulation. My old one I kept on having to wrap something around it because it would get too hot to touch after a while

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    But the sperate pen with station is so damn expensive. Someone suggested me getting the Weller (model with 5 letters), but that thing is like 150 bux or something
    Weller has an entry level variable solder station:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=372-120

    Only $50.00 USD.

    -Chris

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92135011
    Hmm...that sound reasonable. Could work, but there wouldnt be much point. Most of the non variable ones out in the market are low wattage like 35w. Not likely that it would get really hot anyways. Think the variable ones can reach a lot higher than this and get much hotter. I suppose the most important thing is for the handle to have good insulation. My old one I kept on having to wrap something around it because it would get too hot to touch after a while
    Don't use high wattage for soldering PCB. It will melt the circuit more easily. I did few times, using 60W. I think 35W is just fine.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Resident Loser
    "...

    Ask a real simple question. IF(if,if,if) any of the qualities attributed to "magic" solders really existed, doesn't it stand to reason that the manufacturers would make hay with them? .


    jimHJJ(...Gee, sounds familiar...)

    You just made a marketing venue for them to use. Stand by for the new solder snakes
    mtrycrafts

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