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  1. #26
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manlystanley
    Also, I would be done by now, but my 8 year old daughters fish died. Adopted children have special needs and she was really broken up about it.
    Better not get her a dog in that case!
    Quote Originally Posted by manlystanley
    So, she needed lots of my time and love last night.
    I admire you for bringing up an adopted child, you're the man Stan!

  2. #27
    Phila combat zone JoeE SP9's Avatar
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    There are more important things than fixing a rattling speaker. It's good to know you have your priorities straight. So, how's the re-glueing coming along?
    ARC SP9 MKIII, VPI HW19, Rega RB300
    Marcof PPA1, Shure, Sumiko, Ortofon carts, Yamaha DVD-S1800
    Behringer UCA222, Emotiva XDA-2, HiFimeDIY
    Accuphase T101, Teac V-7010, Nak ZX-7. LX-5, Behringer DSP1124P
    Front: Magnepan 1.7, DBX 223SX, 2 modified Dynaco MK3's, 2, 12" DIY TL subs (Pass El-Pipe-O) 2 bridged Crown XLS-402
    Rear/HT: Emotiva UMC200, Acoustat Model 1/SPW-1, Behringer CX2310, 2 Adcom GFA-545

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeE SP9
    There are more important things than fixing a rattling speaker.
    Watch what you say, mister!!

  4. #29
    Sophisticated Red Neck manlystanley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeE SP9
    There are more important things than fixing a rattling speaker. It's good to know you have your priorities straight. So, how's the re-glueing coming along?

    Hello Joe,
    What I found was:

    -- On both speakers, the same run was loose. This was the only run on the 1.6 that had two wires instead of just one.

    -- One speaker was relatively simple as the loose run was only about a foot long. That run is fixed and drying now.

    -- The second speaker is much worse. It had the same wire ((fourth group from the left) loose for over four feet. So, I've needed to re-glue that in four installments (one foot at a time). I've gotten two feet done so far. I plan to get through tonight, let it dry and then give it smoke test tomorrow. I'll tell you what happens.

    Best Regards,
    Stan
    Listening/Movie Room: ADCOM GTP-500, XPA-2, Denon 3930ci, Front: Jamo C809; Surround: Klipsch R-5650-S; Back: R-5650-S; Denon AVR-687,. Projector: Sharp XR-32X.

    Family Room: Denon avr-687, Denon CD player, Klipsch RB-5II

  5. #30
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    Hey Stan,

    Glad to see you making progress. Definitely worth fixing, and probably why they were sold in the first place.

    ONce you get it fixed on both, you can use the Touchntone and that should prevent this from happening again, or so they say!

    Then look at fixing the "component stack"...

  6. #31
    Phila combat zone JoeE SP9's Avatar
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    Glad to hear it's going good. I'm looking forward to your impressions once you can give a listen. Dawnrazor has a point. Maggy's make you look at your gear with a very critical eye. Yes, the 1.6's really are that good.
    ARC SP9 MKIII, VPI HW19, Rega RB300
    Marcof PPA1, Shure, Sumiko, Ortofon carts, Yamaha DVD-S1800
    Behringer UCA222, Emotiva XDA-2, HiFimeDIY
    Accuphase T101, Teac V-7010, Nak ZX-7. LX-5, Behringer DSP1124P
    Front: Magnepan 1.7, DBX 223SX, 2 modified Dynaco MK3's, 2, 12" DIY TL subs (Pass El-Pipe-O) 2 bridged Crown XLS-402
    Rear/HT: Emotiva UMC200, Acoustat Model 1/SPW-1, Behringer CX2310, 2 Adcom GFA-545

  7. #32
    Forum Regular blackraven's Avatar
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    Stan, how did the fix go? Have you been able to listen to them?
    Pass Labs X250 amp, BAT Vk-51se Preamp,
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  8. #33
    Sophisticated Red Neck manlystanley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackraven
    Stan, how did the fix go? Have you been able to listen to them?
    The great re-gluing event is now over. The Maggies are now up-right and pumping out beautiful detailed music to my listening room. (Although very quite as my family is asleep)... But, I woke up at 2:00 and made a fatal mistake of letting my drift to speakers and could not get back to sleep. Am I compulsive or what??

    Last night I cranked them up load. Ah..... Very nice......Teh two ohm tweeter resiter really 'warms' these babies up.

    So, here is the blow by blow account:

    -- Taking off the billion staples is indeed the hardest part. Also, when prying off the wood-trim be careful the not split the wood. Mine came off very well, but was I was very careful.

    -- The metal plate that contains the fuse and speaker plugs should now be unscrewed and pushing through the sock openings.

    -- Take off the sock and now view the unveiled beauty of the: Mylar, magnets, and copper wires.

    -- Now, read, re-read, and triple re-read: http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/M...nn/repair.html

    -- I strongly suggest that you get the CD: "XLO Reference Recordings Test & Burn-in CD.". I used mainly track #7: "Demagnetizing Sweep". It starts out on a single low frequency and then gradually goes up. What I found:

    ++ Middle wires that are loose make the most racket. But, they tend to only make that racket at specific frequencies. So, during the sweep, you will hear a 'buzz' fad in and then fad out as you go past that specific frequency. I found myself using the play forward/reverse remote control button as I tried to narrow down the offending wire.

    ++ I found that there was buzzing wires at low and high frequencies. But the high frequency buzzing was more difficult to locate the offending wires. Further, when found, just slightly pushing the wire back into the sticky mylar fixed the problem. So one one hand you need to use your fingers to locate the buzz, but on the other hand, don't apply much pressure, as you will temporarily stop that buzz.

    ++ Higher frequency buzzing is much less noticeable with music, further it tends to be shorter sections of wire. So, I'm theorizing the life of a buzzing wire is: 1.) Starts to buzz on very high frequencies, 2.) then lower, and lower, etc, etc.


    -- Follow the above directs in attached link for the gluing. I used: cotton swabs and the glue remover and glue that he recommended. Except for the cotton swaps I bought everything at home depot. Also, using a close-pin worked well to push down the wire. Be careful with the mylar. It looks strong but I've read it's very fragile.

    -- One wire fell out when I took the sock off. It must have been loose for at least a four feet run. I needed to glue that in different installments.

    -- The goal is to glue the wire exactly between the magnet rows. I tired my best, but it certainly drifted off at times. However, I can hear no sound problems.

    -- After finishing all the gluing, play and replay the XLO CD. I found multiple other wires that were starting to loosen themselves.

    -- I just have the socks on, with no side panels and no wood trim, this is because:

    ++ It looks fine like this.

    ++ I'm concerned about trying to put back in the trim and 2 inch nails. Doing this to many times will split the wood. Also, I don't know if I'll hear another buzz, so I'm doing an extended test run (until I sell the speakers).

    -- I'm open to any all questions. Fixing the buzz is not hard, it's just a time consuming process and not very difficult.

    Best Regards,
    Stan
    Listening/Movie Room: ADCOM GTP-500, XPA-2, Denon 3930ci, Front: Jamo C809; Surround: Klipsch R-5650-S; Back: R-5650-S; Denon AVR-687,. Projector: Sharp XR-32X.

    Family Room: Denon avr-687, Denon CD player, Klipsch RB-5II

  9. #34
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    Manly,

    THat is great news.

    I am happy you were able to fix a great speaker...and that that disk helped!

    Now you should treat the speaker with Touch n' Tone. That should stop any more issues.

    Look in the Audio Asylum Planar asylum for Touch N' Tone.

    I plan to do my rewire this week, but I think I have just the tiniest bit of delam.

  10. #35
    Sophisticated Red Neck manlystanley's Avatar
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    Hello DR,
    All around, you have been a great help. Just hanging around you guys I lean so much. I've used that disk is so many different ways. Thanks for helping me out.

    Best Regards,
    Stan
    Listening/Movie Room: ADCOM GTP-500, XPA-2, Denon 3930ci, Front: Jamo C809; Surround: Klipsch R-5650-S; Back: R-5650-S; Denon AVR-687,. Projector: Sharp XR-32X.

    Family Room: Denon avr-687, Denon CD player, Klipsch RB-5II

  11. #36
    Phila combat zone JoeE SP9's Avatar
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    I was wondering if running a low level pink or white noise signal through the panels might help with positioning the wires properly. The wires should try to align themselves properly between the magnets when there is a signal present.
    ARC SP9 MKIII, VPI HW19, Rega RB300
    Marcof PPA1, Shure, Sumiko, Ortofon carts, Yamaha DVD-S1800
    Behringer UCA222, Emotiva XDA-2, HiFimeDIY
    Accuphase T101, Teac V-7010, Nak ZX-7. LX-5, Behringer DSP1124P
    Front: Magnepan 1.7, DBX 223SX, 2 modified Dynaco MK3's, 2, 12" DIY TL subs (Pass El-Pipe-O) 2 bridged Crown XLS-402
    Rear/HT: Emotiva UMC200, Acoustat Model 1/SPW-1, Behringer CX2310, 2 Adcom GFA-545

  12. #37
    Phila combat zone JoeE SP9's Avatar
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    Sorry guy's. That should be a 12v DC signal on the wires. It will hold them centered between the magnets. It makes it much easier to glue them in the proper place.
    ARC SP9 MKIII, VPI HW19, Rega RB300
    Marcof PPA1, Shure, Sumiko, Ortofon carts, Yamaha DVD-S1800
    Behringer UCA222, Emotiva XDA-2, HiFimeDIY
    Accuphase T101, Teac V-7010, Nak ZX-7. LX-5, Behringer DSP1124P
    Front: Magnepan 1.7, DBX 223SX, 2 modified Dynaco MK3's, 2, 12" DIY TL subs (Pass El-Pipe-O) 2 bridged Crown XLS-402
    Rear/HT: Emotiva UMC200, Acoustat Model 1/SPW-1, Behringer CX2310, 2 Adcom GFA-545

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