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  1. #1
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Daytime screen calibration

    When I'm not watching a movie, I usually have lights on or natural sunlight in the room. Ive calibrated my screen using the THX optimiser tool which emphasises that calibration must be done in a darkened room. But what about calibrating the screen for normal daytime viewing? is there a simple formula (up the brightness/cell light), or do you have to go through all the settings again and have two settings presets?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    M.P.S.E /AES/SMPTE member Sir Terrence the Terrible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audio amateur
    When I'm not watching a movie, I usually have lights on or natural sunlight in the room. Ive calibrated my screen using the THX optimiser tool which emphasises that calibration must be done in a darkened room. But what about calibrating the screen for normal daytime viewing? is there a simple formula (up the brightness/cell light), or do you have to go through all the settings again and have two settings presets?

    Cheers
    You don't have to worry about the color as much as the brightness levels.

    If you have a ambient light detector on your set, I would engage it. It will lift the brightness levels as the light in the room increases. It will only lift it as needed, so you don't have to worry about any excessive changes to the brightness levels. This will also raise the black level a bit as well, so you will still be able to get some shadow detail, and it won't be crushed by excessive ambient light levels.
    Sir Terrence

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  3. #3
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Terrence the Terrible
    If you have a ambient light detector on your set, I would engage it. It will lift the brightness levels as the light in the room increases. It will only lift it as needed, so you don't have to worry about any excessive changes to the brightness levels. This will also raise the black level a bit as well, so you will still be able to get some shadow detail, and it won't be crushed by excessive ambient light levels.
    So simply using the settings I have for movie watching and engaging the light detector should be enough?
    Thanks T.

  4. #4
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    I have run calibration for my projector under a few different conditions, and then saved the settings. I just use the one that matches the conditions of the time.
    As Sir T said, the color setting came out about the same. It’s the brightness and contrast that change the most. I don’t have an ambient light detector, but it is a 4 year old model.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  5. #5
    Forum Regular audio amateur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMichael
    I donít have an ambient light detector, but it is a 4 year old model.
    And it's a projector

  6. #6
    Class of the clown GMichael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audio amateur
    And it's a projector
    Seems like a great app to have on a projector. Not sure if the newer models have them.
    WARNING! - The Surgeon General has determined that, time spent listening to music is not deducted from one's lifespan.

  7. #7
    Suspended Smokey's Avatar
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    As Sir T and GMichael mentioned, Contrast and Brightness are only adjustment that needed when going from dark to light room. Although I find myself adjusting Contrast more than Brightness when room light intensity changes.

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