Power cords

[BillyB]

You are opening up the biggest bag of worms here, but I'll provide my response regardless.

I have been using Acoustic Zen power cords on all of my gear for the past year+, which includes my amps and my DVD/CD/SACD player(s). I wouldn't exactly say that the cord makes a huge improvement in the sound as much as it does the performance in general. It's different with each component as well and differs in probably all setups as each one is different and things react differently.

What I noticed with my amp is that it seems more stable and delivers more drive. I guess you could say that the amp feels more 'alive'.

The DVD/CD/SACD player on the other hand did not really change sonics, which is good, but the player seems happier to be getting better power. I notice that the machine itself seems to operate much smooth and just doesn't seem fussy.

I am sure you will get a variety of responses here, but that's mine.

Thanks for the input.Yes the dreaded cables issue.Truthfully I would have never given this a moments thought if not for my friend's claim.He is very serious about his audio yet I still have reservations regarding his claim.He also gave me the link for these supposed great quality yet very reasonable cables.

My problem with the cable issue is this.Do you go on the premise you have to buy very expensive cables in order to hear a difference.The expectations become higher relative to cost, and of course the disappointment higher if they don't help.If you buy less expensive cables are they enough of an improvement over OEM to justify changing them.Also less of a disaster if they don't help.Not easy stuff.

I'm still intrigued by an Amp power cord upgrade.They draw the most power and a cord with higher gauge conductors and better shielding isn't an outrageous premise.Of course the cord on my amp is rated for the amperage of my amp, but it does look very bony compared to the power cords I've been looking at.More copper means less resistence so who knows?

Part of the obsession with this hobby is always trying to achieve better sound.This can leave us wide open to spending money on things that don't really work.I have already spent quite a bit of money on components,speakers,interconnects, and bi-wire speaker cable.This would be my last tweak and I'm on the fence about it I would love to hear from someone very technically versed on this theory.Many of the professionals do say these cords make a difference,but they do admit results vary and are often hard to even notice.

I like to get into the nuts and bolts of these issues as most of these matters can be proved or disproved through science.Of course our ears are the most important test.I just like to know all I can before buying any of this stuff.

[PeruvianSkies]

Thanks for the input.Yes the dreaded cables issue.Truthfully I would have never given this a moments thought if not for my friend's claim.He is very serious about his audio yet I still have reservations regarding his claim.He also gave me the link for these supposed great quality yet very reasonable cables.

My problem with the cable issue is this.Do you go on the premise you have to buy very expensive cables in order to hear a difference.The expectations become higher relative to cost, and of course the disappointment higher if they don't help.If you buy less expensive cables are they enough of an improvement over OEM to justify changing them.Also less of a disaster if they don't help.Not easy stuff.

I'm still intrigued by an Amp power cord upgrade.They draw the most power and a cord with higher gauge conductors and better shielding isn't an outrageous premise.Of course the cord on my amp is rated for the amperage of my amp, but it does look very bony compared to the power cords I've been looking at.More copper means less resistence so who knows?

Part of the obsession with this hobby is always trying to achieve better sound.This can leave us wide open to spending money on things that don't really work.I have already spent quite a bit of money on components,speakers,interconnects, and bi-wire speaker cable.This would be my last tweak and I'm on the fence about it I would love to hear from someone very technically versed on this theory.Many of the professionals do say these cords make a difference,but they do admit results vary and are often hard to even notice.

I like to get into the nuts and bolts of these issues as most of these matters can be proved or disproved through science.Of course our ears are the most important test.I just like to know all I can before buying any of this stuff.

They power cables that I used list for $300/each, which is rediculous in my book. I would NEVER have spent that money if I wasn't able to snag them up for $80/each. They are incredible for that price. I'd be weary as to how much you spend on power cables alone. Try PS Audio, they make some terrific cables and also have a few price tiers for all levels of interest.

[daviethek]

the PS Power Punch is about 50.00 at AA. It is different enough from standard power cords so that it might make some differences to your ears. If you don't notice any difference, return the cord, give up the search, and squirrel the money away for the next major component upgrade instead.

[Resident Loser]

...I'm still intrigued by an Amp power cord upgrade.They draw the most power and a cord with higher gauge conductors and better shielding isn't an outrageous premise.Of course the cord on my amp is rated for the amperage of my amp, but it does look very bony compared to the power cords I've been looking at.More copper means less resistence so who knows?...

...it's all so wrong...A simple question...if the power cord has a higher gauge than the stuff that's in your wall, or the wiring that's in your amp/receiver, what would be the benefit? D@mned if I can figure it out...

You can buy UL approved cords that have shielding to deflect RFI/EFI/ EIEIO but, IMHO the last thing you need to shield is a PC as there are umpteen different places this sonic hash can enter your signal path...and make note, that was signal path...which is a few steps removed from the AC that comes out of the outlet and through the cord and is magically transformed into low voltage DC in the power supply section, which is what your electronics run on...

Skinny power cord? Well, the big diff in most of the aftermarket stuff is the fact that it is usually sheathed in some techie-looking braid or some other material and terminated in huge, hardwired (as opposed to molded), sometimes yellow, sometimes orange, perhaps even hospital-rated male/female connectors...OOOHH! big and impressive...until you realize they have to be bigger because they use screw terminals for the wire termination and the connectors themselves are fastened together...all thost fasteners take up beaucoup room, hence SIZE...which conveniently, and simply as a naturally occurring byproduct, gives the appearance of being some hard-core bit of hardware...sorta like most of the street-based "SUV"s out there...Bigger don't mean squat...

And again are these aftermarket gems UL approved? Some folks pooh-pooh the question (your insurance company won't), but there is one mfr. who shills these wares and funny thing, the only item they sell that has UL approval is a fairly run-of-the-mill IEC cord that's way, way down in their pricing structure...their higher priced stuff isn't...Hmmm, wonder why...Molded ends, no braiding...probably right out of the box from China...

As one of the more hands-on, techie types who posts now and again, jneutron terms most of the hype "flooby-dust" and has, in the past, here and at other sites, given pretty good evidence why he uses that term...

jimHJJ(...suffice it to say, the physical evidence of hype I've pointed out should alone give one pause...)

[kexodusc]

Nobody used 'em better than The Who, IMO.

...it's all so wrong...A simple question...if the power cord has a higher gauge than the stuff that's in your wall, or the wiring that's in your amp/receiver, what would be the benefit? D@mned if I can figure it out...

You can buy UL approved cords that have shielding to deflect RFI/EFI/ EIEIO but, IMHO the last thing you need to shield is a PC as there are umpteen different places this sonic hash can enter your signal path...and make note, that was signal path...which is a few steps removed from the AC that comes out of the outlet and through the cord and is magically transformed into low voltage DC in the power supply section, which is what your electronics run on...

Skinny power cord? Well, the big diff in most of the aftermarket stuff is the fact that it is usually sheathed in some techie-looking braid or some other material and terminated in huge, hardwired (as opposed to molded), sometimes yellow, sometimes orange, perhaps even hospital-rated male/female connectors...OOOHH! big and impressive...until you realize they have to be bigger because they use screw terminals for the wire termination and the connectors themselves are fastened together...all thost fasteners take up beaucoup room, hence SIZE...which conveniently, and simply as a naturally occurring byproduct, gives the appearance of being some hard-core bit of hardware...sorta like most of the street-based "SUV"s out there...Bigger don't mean squat...

And again are these aftermarket gems UL approved? Some folks pooh-pooh the question (your insurance company won't), but there is one mfr. who shills these wares and funny thing, the only item they sell that has UL approval is a fairly run-of-the-mill IEC cord that's way, way down in their pricing structure...their higher priced stuff isn't...Hmmm, wonder why...Molded ends, no braiding...probably right out of the box from China...

As one of the more hands-on, techie types who posts now and again, jneutron terms most of the hype "flooby-dust" and has, in the past, here and at other sites, given pretty good evidence why he uses that term...

jimHJJ(...suffice it to say, the physical evidence of hype I've pointed out should alone give one pause...)

Ah gee whiz, RL, there ya go again, makin' sense with them big fancy words of yours...