Help with bi-wiring and cable size/quality

[J*E*Cole]

I recently picked up some new Infinity Alpha 50's at CC on closeout. They are the first speakers I have ever owned that can be bi-wired so I thought I'd give it a try. I was using Monster Cable 10ga. 10 foot prepacked with gold ends already on for the old speakers. I bought some bulk 14ga. wire from Lowe's and used this to bi-wire my new spkrs. I used the Monsters for the highs and the bulk for the lows. Was this the best route? Is 14ga. adequate or should I stick to the same gauge and brand? Also are there really quality differences among the various manufacturers? What might an expert recommend to do. I'm not opposed to scrapping all the cable and starting over with new. However I was always impressed with the Monsters I have used for awhile now. Is there a better choice that would actually yield some better sound? By the way, I could easily tell the difference in sound after bi-wiring these speakers, but if I could improve on this with a different brand or gauge or whatever, I definitely would. Thank you very much in advance for any advice or comments you may have.

[FLZapped]

I recently picked up some new Infinity Alpha 50's at CC on closeout. They are the first speakers I have ever owned that can be bi-wired so I thought I'd give it a try. I was using Monster Cable 10ga. 10 foot prepacked with gold ends already on for the old speakers. I bought some bulk 14ga. wire from Lowe's and used this to bi-wire my new spkrs. I used the Monsters for the highs and the bulk for the lows. Was this the best route?

I believe so. the inductance is lower for the larger guage wire, which is more important at high frequenncies. Still, for the average length found in most homes, it probably is not audible either way.

Is 14ga. adequate or should I stick to the same gauge and brand?

14AWG is fine.

Also are there really quality differences among the various manufacturers?

Probably. Things like how well they bond the insulation to the wire so that water has less of a chance of wicking.(At least for solid wire) How well they drive the plasticizers out of the insulation. Many times this is the cause of green wire.

Stuff like that.

What might an expert recommend to do. I'm not opposed to scrapping all the cable and starting over with new. However I was always impressed with the Monsters I have used for awhile now. Is there a better choice that would actually yield some better sound?

Doubt it. But there is no harm in playing around as long as you aren't spending the milk money, right?

-Bruce

[kingcrim05]

I have my lower gauged monster for my low's and my higher gauged mosnter for the high's on my infinity il40's for my fronts......

[Mash]

The Boston Audio Society did some wire tests c1972 and found that 12 GA zip was best in that it offered the minimum of both inductance and capacitance per foot when compared to either heavier or lighter wire. You might find this article at the BAS site.........?

I do not spend significant bucks on wires.... I attend live recitals and as long as my system continues to match the live recitals I will see no reason to worry about wires except that they are "there" and "functioning".

[Geoffcin]

The Boston Audio Society did some wire tests c1972 and found that 12 GA zip was best in that it offered the minimum of both inductance and capacitance per foot when compared to either heavier or lighter wire. You might find this article at the BAS site.........?

I do not spend significant bucks on wires.... I attend live recitals and as long as my system continues to match the live recitals I will see no reason to worry about wires except that they are "there" and "functioning".

And continues to move. As far as I've heard no system can match a live performance. A close analog is all that we can ever hope for.

[FLZapped]

And continues to move. As far as I've heard no system can match a live performance. A close analog is all that we can ever hope for.

Sorry, but I have been to live performances that have royally sucked compared to the recoded versions......In all cases I wanted to chock the livin' snot outta the soundman.

-Bruce

[Geoffcin]

Sorry, but I have been to live performances that have royally sucked compared to the recoded versions......In all cases I wanted to chock the livin' snot outta the soundman.

-Bruce

By live I meant live acoustic, as in non-amplified. I do agree though that with live amplified performances the soundman can make or break the performance.

[FLZapped]

By live I meant live acoustic, as in non-amplified. I do agree though that with live amplified performances the soundman can make or break the performance.

Ahhhh, okay...and obviously I mean choke.......

sheesh. I need a proof reeder..... ;~)

[Geoffcin]

I recently picked up some new Infinity Alpha 50's at CC on closeout. They are the first speakers I have ever owned that can be bi-wired so I thought I'd give it a try. I was using Monster Cable 10ga. 10 foot prepacked with gold ends already on for the old speakers. I bought some bulk 14ga. wire from Lowe's and used this to bi-wire my new spkrs. I used the Monsters for the highs and the bulk for the lows. Was this the best route? Is 14ga. adequate or should I stick to the same gauge and brand? Also are there really quality differences among the various manufacturers? What might an expert recommend to do. I'm not opposed to scrapping all the cable and starting over with new. However I was always impressed with the Monsters I have used for awhile now. Is there a better choice that would actually yield some better sound? By the way, I could easily tell the difference in sound after bi-wiring these speakers, but if I could improve on this with a different brand or gauge or whatever, I definitely would. Thank you very much in advance for any advice or comments you may have.

Try the different wires in different configurations, and see if you can hear a difference. Then try them each singly, and see if that sounds differerent. There are no "rules" as I can see it for your specific configuration. Please write your findings after you've done some tests.

[Mash]

Geoffcin: If you wish to think that "the state of the (wire) art has moved since 1972" that is well and fine.... but how about defining what that "state of the (wire) art" really IS for the rest of us? Inquisitive minds want to know.......

2004 Cu used in conductors is the same as 1972 Cu. Ditto Ag and all the rest. The move in generators is to increase power density with better air-cooling technology, better hydrogen-cooling technology, better water-cooling technology, and better insulation technology, i.e. thinner and lighter insulation that can still resist 14,400 volts or whatever voltage the generator is designrd to output. Composites are being adopted to reduce rotational weight and the losses therefrom. But the conductive windings are the same old same old......

And yes, my main rig does reproduce the fine voicing of live instruments one hears at a recital. I would expect nothing less of tubies direct-coupled to Magges.

[Geoffcin]

Geoffcin: If you wish to think that "the state of the (wire) art has moved since 1972" that is well and fine.... but how about defining what that "state of the (wire) art" really IS for the rest of us? Inquisitive minds want to know.......

2004 Cu used in conductors is the same as 1972 Cu. Ditto Ag and all the rest. The move in generators is to increase power density with better air-cooling technology, better hydrogen-cooling technology, better water-cooling technology, and better insulation technology, i.e. thinner and lighter insulation that can still resist 14,400 volts or whatever voltage the generator is designrd to output. Composites are being adopted to reduce rotational weight and the losses therefrom. But the conductive windings are the same old same old......

And yes, my main rig does reproduce the fine voicing of live instruments one hears at a recital. I would expect nothing less of tubies direct-coupled to Magges.

So far as the state of the art in wire tech. I would advise you to try some different wires before making any preconceived judgments. Of course if your system is so perfect that any change would be degradation then I can see why this advise doesn't make sence to you.

[Resident Loser]

...the record gets stuck...the record gets stuck...

Hearing a "difference" is merely that...a difference. Any number of things can cause a perceived difference...whether or not something is "better" than something else, falls into the category of opinion and is therefor anecdotal in nature; it then becomes subject to any multitude of biases.

To the original poster: by all means, "audition" any number of wiring configurations...go the DIY route if you are of a mind to...just keep in mind what I have already stated...

jimHJJ(...anybody have a zip-loc to put these worms in...)

[J*E*Cole]

I confess I don't fully get it when we say "perceived differences." I mean I know the meaning of perceived and I know what difference means, but you don't bi-wire just for the sake of difference, at least I didn', it must be a positive difference. I guess I tried it to gauge any difference, and then found out what it accomplished for me. That is, more defined bass with better extension, mids that I never knew were there before, and highs that are vivid, crisp, and complementary. Of course the soundstage was improved and a better overall accuracy was attained. I can't even imagine any scenario when bi-wiring would not make a positive difference, whether perceived or not. If you're not perceiving this positive difference, then you just don't have the ear. Same goes for the old speaker wire gauge argument. Of course copper is better than aluminum, and of couse thicker copper is better than thinner, and purer, thicker copper is better yet. Then there are silver and gold of course, but the point is the differences are real and positive in almost every situation and if not perceived, then the capability to perceive is simply absent.