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  1. #1
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    DIY speaker stands/mounts?

    I was wondering if anyone had info regarding DIY speaker stands and wall/ceiling mounts ... for a home theater set up...

  2. #2
    Loving This kexodusc's Avatar
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    Anything in particular your think of? Parts Express sells a few dozen different mounting brackets for all sizes of speakers. They also have a few stands.

    You could build your own stands from MDF easy enough, think mounts are a bit harder unless you just screw a shelf support into a beam in the wall.

  3. #3
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    [QUOTE=kexodusc]Anything in particular your think of? Parts Express sells a few dozen different mounting brackets for all sizes of speakers. They also have a few stands.

    You could build your own stands from MDF easy enough, think mounts are a bit harder unless you just screw a shelf support into a beam in the wall.[/QUOT

    Here's an idea I have built for many people that is cheep and sounds fantastic. get your self 2 chimney liners ( the taracota style) approx 8". rounded/ square & 34" tall, they can be cut at the same place you buy them ie: hardware store, building supply. when your at the hardware store also get a 2' x 2" x (the width + 2" of the chimney liners opening) of hard wood. also get 2 threaded rods approx 1/2" x 38" long with nuts/ lock washers/washers. oh and 3 bag's of sterile sand 50lb bags. I'm assuming you have tools. ok determine the hight you require cut or have cut (or if your lucky you wont have to cut at all) the chimney liners to the hight minus 5" . ok now the hard part. cut the wood to fit squarely over the ends of the chimney liner's,using a router or hand chisel cut out a grove for the liner to sit into about 1/4" deep. drill a hole through the center of each end piece and on the other side from the grove cut a recess approx 1/2" for the nut lock washer and washer to fit recessed. fit both end capt to the liners and place the threaded rod though the holes put a nut lock washer and washer on to one end of the rod ( this order wood/washer/lock washer/nut) the other end will be longest so you will have to use a hack saw to cut the rod after final assembly. ok finish the wood end caps as you prefer ie: varnish. ok to assemble put the top with the threaded rod sticking up on the floor, put a light coat of silicon in the grove and place the liner into the grove. put bottom on and snug down ( dint put silicon yet) after the top silicon has set fill the cavity with sand. yeah its about 1.5 bags lb bag's. now put the bottom on with a coat of silicon and tighten the rod making sure its still bellow the top. cut the rod off flush with the bottom. now you have your basic stand very heavy about 80lb's. you can put spikes in the bottom or any foot you can think of. or do like i do and make a steel plate just larger then the wood base and screw it to the bottom and thread the spikes into that. its extremely stable and anchors the speaker to the flood firmly well they do weigh about 80lb's more if you use cement also the spikes bring it up the last 1.5" . ok

    I wrote this on the fly so hope it makes sense if not write me and I'll send diagrams. also the hight is going to vary depending the the wood's actual thickness so account for that. also you can paint or even use some fabric to cover the tubes I would recommend that you at least put clear lacquer on them the teracota will absorb grease marks if you don't not to mention the occasional kick. well have fun hope that helps some one. total cost is under $100. (well unless you use some exotic wood)

  4. #4
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    forgot one thing if your going to move them often you may want to put a plug in the bottom to get the sand out. or try other dampening materials like lead shot (if it wasn't already heavy enough) cement but thats messy and well your not going to get it out again.

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