PLS help me to build/construct my own subwoofer

[jc_bon2]

pls help me to build/construct my own subwoofer, pls give me illustrations or links to a website containing these information thanx

[BRANDONH]

pls help me to build/construct my own subwoofer, pls give me illustrations or links to a website containing these information thanx

If you are looking for a kit these are good ones:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-760
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-762
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-764

Or if you want to build one from scratch:
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ake/index.html
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=365-260
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/flye..._pe5f.indd.pdf
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/flye..._pe5f.indd.pdf
Have fun.

[kexodusc]

In addition to the excellent links above, the generally agreed on best bang for the buck sub right now is the 15" Dayton Quatro/240 watt amp combo. The 15" Quatro is a real giant killer in terms of sound quality, and plays pretty darn loud. It compares quite favorably to some much more expensive woofers.

Stick it in a 2.5 to 3.5 cubic ft, sealed box with a double think 0.75 inch MDF front baffle, and an interior shelf brace with a 15" hole in it. Easily built in a morning. Add time for finishing to your liking.

[jocko_nc]

I'm in the same boat... From what I have heard and seen, the PartsExpress kits listed above sound like the way to go. I'm going to get a Titanic 10 kit soon. ???.

Any reason I should opt for my own design? It is important to me that the sub be very musical, any reason the Titanic kit is not the right approach? Is there a more musical sub in the same price range. say < $500.00?

jocko

[macebanyon]

If you have the tools to build your own cabinet, I would say go with the Rythmik Audio Direct Servo amp/driver combo. This uses a TC Sounds 12" driver with a very versatile amp.
I have built the Titanic 12", the Dayton 12"DVC Shiva clone, and the Rythmik is definitely
the hands down winner in the extension and SQ department.

[jc_bon2]

Im going with the designed of "the drake" subwoofer featured here in this link http://www.partsexpress.com/project...rake/index.html
then I noticed that the enclosure design doesn't have any vent at all, will that be fine?? cause there will be a lot of pressure building on its back.

I bought a 500W 12" 4ohms subwoofer what kind of subwoofer amp should I purchase, how should I know that the amp is compatible with the driver????????

thanx

[macebanyon]

Im going with the designed of "the drake" subwoofer featured here in this link http://www.partsexpress.com/project...rake/index.html
then I noticed that the enclosure design doesn't have any vent at all, will that be fine?? cause there will be a lot of pressure building on its back.

I bought a 500W 12" 4ohms subwoofer what kind of subwoofer amp should I purchase, how should I know that the amp is compatible with the driver????????

thanx

JC, what driver did you buy?
Will this sub be used for Home Theater or music or both?
How big is the room you will have it in?

The Drake is designed to be sealed. The backwave of the driver shouldn't be a problem in a properly designed cabinet, and actually can work to control the motion of the sub.

[jc_bon2]

can anyone tell me whats the difference between the sound produced by a vented subwoofer than a sealed subwoofer

I want it strong not very low. what do you suggest ventilated or sealed

thanx

[GMichael]

can anyone tell me whats the difference between the sound produced by a vented subwoofer than a sealed subwoofer

I want it strong not very low. what do you suggest ventilated or sealed

thanx

Sealed is better for music. Ported goes lower and louder but can be sloppy.

[jc_bon2]

thanks sir

[kexodusc]

More to it than that. Some would say that because of the less steep acoustic roll-off of sealed cabinets, sealed subs sound every bit as low as bass reflex designs. I think this is accurate if the right size sub is in the right size room. A sealed sub will reap the benefits of a given transfer function (room gain) more so than a ported (bass reflex) design.
Motion control, transients, and group delay are usually much better in sealed designs than in a ported sub, all things equal. The air in the cabinet acts as a braking force, shorting the time the woofer needs to stop after initial impulse. You get less "hangover". The start to stop speed (transients) of the woofer is about 4 times as fast in sealed designs. These are some of the reasons sealed subs are often said to be better for music.

Ported subwoofers can sound pretty darn good as well. The big thing there is improved power handling, and arguably lower bass extension. At the tuning frequency, the woofers motion is completely damped, and all the sound is being made by the air resonating in the port(s). You're basically getting something for nothing. The woofer generally doesn't enjoy the same level of motion control, but it's not bad.

I think for most people who would use a sub 50/50 for music and home theater, a ported subwoofer offers more flexibility and better overall performance. Especially in the 10" range. Even 12" sealed subs probably don't play low enough for todays 5.1 surround soundtracks, and depending on your preferences, can run out of power handling (maximum loudness) a bit early.

When you get to 15" or larger woofers, then sheer size negates many of the advantages of the ported sub...a 15" sealed sub will play pretty darn low and loud, and be well suited for music.

This is a bit oversimplified, because there's other factors that come into play. For example, you can get sealed subs with extremely long excursions, which trade off some of that improved sound quality to achieve better power handling, and similarly, you can buy very well damped, fast responding drivers for ported enclosures that will sound great, but might not play as loud. In both cases, you're going to pay extra, and it might not be the most cost effective approach.

Then you can get into dual-chamber reflex designs which are more complex ported systems that offer the best of both worlds...at added expense...

If you're building a sub, sealed subs are a bit easier. If you're going to do more music listening than Lord Of The Rings watching, a 12" or 15" sealed sub is probably the way to go.

Why not build 2 cabinets and try both? MDF is super cheap.

[JoeE SP9]

Buy whatever size woofer you want.The woofer should be one designed for a ported enclusure. Sealed box designs may not work as well. Get the smallest size Sonotube (concrete construction former) the speaker will fit in. Cut the tube length to 1/4 the wavelength of the woofers Fsub3 frequency. Stuff loosely with damping material, cover the end opposite the woofer with acoustically transparent material. This is a transmission line sub-woofer. Lay the tube on the floor behind your main speakers and power it up. Laying the tube down will probably be required because the tube length will be longer than the height of most modern home and apartment ceilings. Transmission line woofers play loud go deep and are relatively efficient. A 100 Watt amp should be more than sufficient for any reasonable volume. Sonotubes are very cheap. Your only real expense is purchasing the woofer.

[jc_bon2]

Im using this sub mainly for music, how can I make this sub into a 2.1 system? what are the things that I need? is a 2.1 system excellent for music or 2 stereo speakers are better???

thanx

[JoeE SP9]

Im using this sub mainly for music, how can I make this sub into a 2.1 system? what are the things that I need? is a 2.1 system excellent for music or 2 stereo speakers are better???

thanx

A subwoofer is a subwoofer. If your main speakers don't go low enough (most don't) you can add a sub. Virtually all bookshelf and most floorstanding speakers will benefit from a subwoofer as their frequency response just doesn't go low enough to produce good low bass. Although I have surround capability I rarely use the surround speakers while listening to music. Most of my recordings are 2-channel. Processing them for surround is not an improvement to me. Just about all powered subwoofers have a crossover built into the included amp. They are easy to add to any system 2 channel or full surround. A sub for a 2.1 system is any sub added to a 2 channel system.

[pelly3s]

for music i would suggest a pair of subs. I am seriously considering using my LAB 12 woofers in a 9 foot folded transmission line. if you want something simple and cheap as everyone else mentioned go with the parts express kits.