?How to repair my NAD receiver/CD

[natlus]

I just picked up a 7225PE receiver and 5340 CD Player at a garage sale, but I need to fix them up a bit. Any information on : repair shops in the New York City area; replacement parts, particulary the volume knob for the PE; ideas about prices for a general internal cleaning, etc.. (or maybe I could do it myself if someone walked me through it)

I picked these two up plus a pair of Celestion bookshelfs for $30...

The volume on the PE appears to distort at a low volume and sometimes at a medium one, but then is fine after the unit is turned on for a while--what could that mean? Plus, the LED read-out on the CD player does not work, though it plays fine. Is that an expensive thing to fix?

Also, how does one clean the outside of these babies?

Thanks in advance...

:confused:

[Kursun]

The volume on the PE appears to distort at a low volume and sometimes at a medium one, but then is fine after the unit is turned on for a while--what could that mean?
The wear and tear on the PE's volume control seems to be at an early stage. That problem can probably be rectified by applying a contact cleaner spray at its volume control potentioneter.

[natlus]

The wear and tear on the PE's volume control seems to be at an early stage. That problem can probably be rectified by applying a contact cleaner spray at its volume control potentioneter.

Thanks so much for the reply. Since I'm bit of a novice, can you tell me what and where is the volume control potentioneter?

[Kursun]

Thanks so much for the reply. Since I'm bit of a novice, can you tell me what and where is the volume control potentioneter?A volume control potentiometer is the volume control itself. It is located just behind the volume control knob. Volume control knob turns the shaft of this device (a variable resistor).
You can learn more about potentiometers here:
http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm
A stereo potentiometer is double, stacked.
A typical contact cleaner:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=64-4315
(I usually use Philips contact cleaners)
These contact cleaners have a pipette and squirt its chemical to delicate places through this pipette. Potentiometers usually have tiny gaps on their shield, through which you can apply the contact cleaner. Don't apply it on the outer shield of the potentiometer.
While applying the contact cleaner turn the potentiometer (volume control knob) left and right several times. All this will dissolve the oxidation and hardened filth due to tobacco smoke and dust from the surface of the contacts in the potentiometer.
You should not over-do it. Do not apply too much contact cleaner as it contains lubricants and excess may drip on the circuit board below it. It's a good idea to cover the surroundings of the potentiometer with cloth or paper towel before applying the contact cleaner. Actually I use two types of (Philips) contact cleaner. One type has no lubricant (blue can), which I use first. The other type contains lubricant (red can), which I use later more sparingly (and then turn the control left and right, not before applying the lubricant).

A WORD OF WARNING: Since you have a receiver, not an integrated amplifier, this procedure should be done more carefully. As the FM tuner inside the receiver have critically tuned circuits, any contact cleaner spray that gets on these parts will result in a de-tuned tuner.

[markw]

One of the best explanations of this process that I've ever seen.

Only one thing I would add. When he does this, make sure the unit is unplugged from the wall. This assures the power will be off. Hey, with newbies, ya never know... ;)

[Bill L]

The display went out on my NAD 5325 twice - once under warranty and once not. The dealer said it was a common problem. I believe the 5340 is the big brother (more bells and whistles, same unit). The display is still out and it works fine.

[tpcounty]

I am sorry but I can't resist. I know this is probably against TOS and moderators feel free to delete.

I saw the heading saying something about repairing a NAD then saw pictures depicting a shaft and a nut. I couldn't stop laughing. I fully admit I am being juvenile and need to get my head out of the gutter, but hey, what's wrong with a good laugh now and then? Sorry if anyone is offended but I have to admit I was laughing my butt off.

Moderators, do with this what you please. Sorry for any inconvenience. LOL!!!!

[natlus]

The display went out on my NAD 5325 twice - once under warranty and once not. The dealer said it was a common problem. I believe the 5340 is the big brother (more bells and whistles, same unit). The display is still out and it works fine.

Thanks for the reply. I understand there is supposed to be a remote for the 5340; also the back legs are missing. Any ideas where I can get these(and if in the NYC area, so much the better).

Did you like the sound on your 5325? I've never had another CD player besides a dinosaur Sony player in a minisystem, and a Luxman, and was surprised at the amount of detail I
thought I heard.

[Resident Loser]

...we could have if we were talking about nipples, annular rings and ball-bearings!!!

jimHJJ(...not to mention jam nuts and insertion loss...)

[Bill L]

Thanks for the reply. I understand there is supposed to be a remote for the 5340; also the back legs are missing. Any ideas where I can get these(and if in the NYC area, so much the better).

Did you like the sound on your 5325? I've never had another CD player besides a dinosaur Sony player in a minisystem, and a Luxman, and was surprised at the amount of detail I
thought I heard.

I bought the 5325 when just getting into the hobby on its outstanding reviews.
I've had a Dennon, an older NAD 5100(?) monitor that I currently use, along with a Meridian 506 also currently in use. The 5325 is the leanest of the bunch - not much bass and that tips the balance up a bit so there is more perceived detail. The others definitely have a more fluid (soothing) sound. So far, I haven't found the right equipment to go with it. I"m eventually (need $) going to build a Bottlehead amp and see how it works with that. Maybe a nice warm tube based system will bring some balance to the equation. As for the feet and remote, a used unit with remote may be cheaper than new replacements (if there is such a thing). The 5325/5340 are about 12(?) years old and cost only $300 - $350 new. They'd probably be blown away by todays $100 units.

[Kaboom]

uhm.... i get the shaft thing no prob... what did i miss with "nad"?

[Bill L]

uhm.... i get the shaft thing no prob... what did i miss with "nad"?

Well... The review I read on this unit was titled 'Go NAD' (really!). They liked it. Say it real fast.