macebanyon
09-16-2004, 11:22 AM
Hello all
I originally started with the Titanic MKIII 12" kit from Part's Express. Because I planned on using this sub in a music only system, I decided to scrap the P.E. cabinet (1.6f^3) I modeled the Titanic in WinIsd and decided to go with a 2.1f^3 to tighten things up a bit. Now don't get me wrong, the Titanic in kit form was fine, excellent actually, but the lower frequencies had a bit of boom that I wanted to try and eliminate.
The biggest drawback to enlarging the cab would be loosing some bottom end, but I felt that this being for music only, the compromise of a tighter response versus a little more extension, was well worth it.
The cabinet was built using 1" MDF, cubed 18x18x18.5, and had an internal shelf brace connecting the sidewalls and top and bottom. I also ran 1" oak dowel rods from the front baffle to the back wall.
VERY SOLID!
I decided to use real wood veneer, Teak, on all sides but the baffle. For the baffle, I used an Acrylic Lacquer, dark gray w/gold metalflake. This almost looks black, but in the right light the matalflake really accents the Teak quiet well.
VERY BEAUTIFUL!
The sound is very musical, tight and fast. In my room this beast actually is 2dB's louder at 20Hz. than at 25Hz. From 20Hz. To 250Hz. there is only a variation of 5dB. I also own the HSU VTF-2, which is also an excellent sub, but the Titanic definitely outplays it.
To sum things up, I would have no problem recommending this sub to anyone. Buy it in the kit form, or just get the amp and driver and build your own box. You will not be disappointed.
pix- http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=996743
I originally started with the Titanic MKIII 12" kit from Part's Express. Because I planned on using this sub in a music only system, I decided to scrap the P.E. cabinet (1.6f^3) I modeled the Titanic in WinIsd and decided to go with a 2.1f^3 to tighten things up a bit. Now don't get me wrong, the Titanic in kit form was fine, excellent actually, but the lower frequencies had a bit of boom that I wanted to try and eliminate.
The biggest drawback to enlarging the cab would be loosing some bottom end, but I felt that this being for music only, the compromise of a tighter response versus a little more extension, was well worth it.
The cabinet was built using 1" MDF, cubed 18x18x18.5, and had an internal shelf brace connecting the sidewalls and top and bottom. I also ran 1" oak dowel rods from the front baffle to the back wall.
VERY SOLID!
I decided to use real wood veneer, Teak, on all sides but the baffle. For the baffle, I used an Acrylic Lacquer, dark gray w/gold metalflake. This almost looks black, but in the right light the matalflake really accents the Teak quiet well.
VERY BEAUTIFUL!
The sound is very musical, tight and fast. In my room this beast actually is 2dB's louder at 20Hz. than at 25Hz. From 20Hz. To 250Hz. there is only a variation of 5dB. I also own the HSU VTF-2, which is also an excellent sub, but the Titanic definitely outplays it.
To sum things up, I would have no problem recommending this sub to anyone. Buy it in the kit form, or just get the amp and driver and build your own box. You will not be disappointed.
pix- http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=996743