Need new soldering iron - any recommendations?

[kexodusc]

I bought a really cheap crap-o soldering iron a few years back, but now that I'm starting to solder more and more, I need a better soldering iron.
Any suggestions? Something inexpensive please, I don't need a $300 dollar unit or anything like that.
Thanks.

[pelly3s]

you can pick up a good weller station for roughly $100. i use one every day of my life. it's great

[Dual-500]

^^^^ What he said.

[92135011]

whats wrong with a cheapo soldering iron?

[Dual-500]

whats wrong with a cheapo soldering iron?

LOL. There's nothing whatsoever "Wrong" with a Cheapo soldering iron - used them for years - still might have one laying around somewhere.

Use a Weller digital temperature controlled solder station sometime and you will enjoy it.

The original poster asked for recommendation on upgrades for a cheapo unit and was provded feedback.

The Weller's have interchangeable tip's and such. Also a wet sponge for tip cleaning and you can adjust the temperature to suit the task.

They make the work much easier to obtain quality results on a more consistent basis over a wide variety of soldering jobs.

[kexodusc]

LOL. There's nothing whatsoever "Wrong" with a Cheapo soldering iron - used them for years - still might have one laying around somewhere.

Use a Weller digital temperature controlled solder station sometime and you will enjoy it.

The original poster asked for recommendation on upgrades for a cheapo unit and was provded feedback.

The Weller's have interchangeable tip's and such. Also a wet sponge for tip cleaning and you can adjust the temperature to suit the task.

They make the work much easier to obtain quality results on a more consistent basis over a wide variety of soldering jobs.

FYI: The unit I have takes forever to heat anything up...if at all. I didn't use it much, maybe a few hours tops. It didn't use to behave this way, so I don't know if it's something I did or if the unit is defective. I've had to borrow someone else's in the meantime.
There's nothing wrong with a cheap soldering iron if it works properly.

[92135011]

I had an old soldering iron that cost 8 bux cdn
Worked like a charm
Except that the stupid handle always got too hot to handle.
Well..I lost it anyhow

[Mash]

k-d
"Slow to heat" can be caused by a lumpy buildup [accumulation] on the iron's tip acting like an insulator, and some screw-on tips can become loose. Tip should be neat, tinned, and pencil tips tight to the shaft. Pencil irons come in two flavors: ones that work and ones that have died.

RS sells inexpensive irons that work well. Pencil irons can be 15W, 25W, 30W and whatever. I use a 30W RS pencil for my occasional wire jobs. Others seem to prefer their fancy irons that cost many bucks and may be well worth it when used daily. 100W "Guns" are usually clumsy, and most of us don't preheat them long enough or we apply too much heat.

[Dual-500]

.....Others seem to prefer their fancy irons that cost many bucks and may be well worth it when used daily. 100W "Guns" are usually clumsy, and most of us don't preheat them long enough or we apply too much heat......

I have a little different "Interpretation" here.

I don't use anything in my shop "Daily" with the possible exception of the utility lighting. A good example is the 2hp 20" Craftsman drill press has been used twice in the two years I've owned it.

My tool selection contains only professional grade tools with such brand names as Craftsman, Snap On, Husky, DeWalt, Weller, Edelstall, Graco, Klein, Binks, Echo, Enerpac, etc.

When I use a tool for whatever task, I expect quality. I'm willing to spend the extra $ to buy quality. The results speak for themselves. Add to that, my router, belt sander, orbital sander, air compressor, and several other tools are 25 or more years old and still in excellent condition.

Quality is quality. I simply can't equate the level of quality in my shop tools to "Fancy". It's pretty much the same with audio gear - names like JBL, Ashly, Carver, Phase Linear, McCauley, Adcom and DBX don't equate to fancy, they equate to quality.

Weller makes quality products. There are many that simply choose to work with quality tools.

100w guns can be "Clumsy" if used on a task such as PCB soldering. For other projects they are perfect. I own and use 100w & 300w guns, as well as a Weller soldering station - it just depends upon what the slodering job is. There are times I use a propane torch - sometimes with a tip and sometimes open flame for sweat soldering.

The right tool for the job.

Cheers!!!!

[Mash]

Aahhh, Mr SteveW. You would seem a bit touchy....

And perhaps you did not note that "fancy" can mean "elaborate" or "impressive" as well as "upmarket" ? In otherwords, complicated. Some folk like to use complicated tools and solutions, and they may also gain great satisfaction from perceived value. Some of us, on the other hand, cut to the chase for an incisive resolution.

And "JBL, Ashly, Carver, Phase Linear, McCauley, Adcom and DBX don't equate to fancy, they equate to quality." ......?? Not in my book. I had Phase Linear and DBX years ago and I found them very wanting. Carver is Phase Linear Redux. And so on. I prefer my custom Futtermans and Tympani. Velodyne Servos. DeCoursey. FanFare. and so on. Not the most expensive nor the least expensive, but rather the goods that can reproduce a live recital. Money (and status) is not a criteria to me except that I do not wish to be "taken". Does anyone?

And gee, I do have some Craftsman tools. I also have DeWalt 18V and Milwakee 18V drills, but I never thought of them as "professional grade tools"...... just the drills CR recommended. Nothing more..........

I have to amortize a tool "investment" in 2 years or less to justify the purchase or I will simply hire someone.

Funny tho, I have 5 different wire strippers/crimpers and I use them mostly on the boat projects. The home sound systems need no tweaking because they reproduce the live sound so I fool with the boat-

[Dual-500]

Or it could mean one has the mechanical aptitude, skills and fabrication experience to know the difference. As opposed to being skilled at blowing hot air.

After all, a DIY forum isn't necessarily about "hiring out" now is it???

The original question was "where to go from a cheapo?" - not "why does one work ok?" or "rationale for cheap tools".

Next time you "hire in" a crew for one of your projects, take a minute from your busy boating schedule (cough cough) and have a look at the brands of tools they are using......

"I have to amortize a tool "investment" in 2 years or less to justify the purchase or I will simply hire someone."

That's very obvious.

Cheers!!!!

[Mash]

My, my, Mr SteveW. You do seem to combine a disagreeable attitude with what might be deemed challenged reading abilities. Or so it seems.

kexodusc's original question was, and I cut & paste here,
"Any suggestions? Something inexpensive please, I don't need a $300 dollar unit or anything like that."

So this gentleman is asking for "Something inexpensive...." Which would suggest RS. He is NOT asking "where to go from a cheapo?" Not at all. Clear, now??

Now you are being a little hostile with your: "Or it could mean one has the mechanical aptitude, skills and fabrication experience to know the difference. As opposed to being skilled at blowing hot air." "Blowing hot air" is not generally considered a polite or affable reference, but I suppose it bodes better than blowing cold air....

Dear friend, I have quite a few basic patents, most of which are in production, and I have found it quite rewarding, in very many concrete ways, to be the idea man and let others do the heavy lifting. The heavy lifting is done at my direction, of course. This allows me to harness the tallents of many skilled workers at one time.

"A DIY forum isn't necessarily about "hiring out" now is it..." Not necessarily, but nowhere is it writ that "hiring out" is prohibited, either. Someone has to do the thinking, and I prefer that I am that someone. Trust me, it's the most favorable way.........

"Next time you "hire in" a crew for one of your projects, take a minute from your busy boating schedule (cough cough) and have a look at the brands of tools they are using......"
Why have a look at the brands of tools they are using? One does not buy a tool designed for 6000 hours use if one will use such a tool for 100 hours maximum and the performances of the 6000 hour tool and the 100 hour tool, within their alloted service lives, are identical. That is a foolish path to the poorhouse. And boating is quite enjoyable if you have a bigblock GFBL. Except my wife gets nervous above 60. Not sure why. But she got nervous in the plane, too.....

[Dual-500]

"And boating is quite enjoyable if you have a bigblock GFBL. Except my wife gets nervous above 60. Not sure why. But she got nervous in the plane, too....."

Scared huh, and with "Daddy Warbucks" himself at the controls - imagine that. Perhaps she's unaware of your commanding mechanical prowess?

Have you considered "Hiring In" a professional driver?

Oh well, try not to hurt anyone and for heavens sake, don't forget the "Grey Poupon".

Cheers!!!!

[skeptic]

You will need different soldering irons for different jobs. If I am working on vacuum tube circuits, I like a dual wattage 100/140 watt gun type iron. Weller is excellent. They heat quickly and provide a high enough temperature and enough heat to make or loosen soldered connections quickly. Learnig to make connections quickly and efficiently reduces risk of damage to components from overheating. I haven't priced one in many years but once upon a time, they weren't all that expensive.

If I am working on a printed circuit board, I usually prefer a small pencil iron. Their small tips allow you to work on closely spaced connections individually and they reduce the risk of damage to small transistors and ICs. Get one with a small stand so you can turn it on and leave it on through your entire job.

At least as important as which soldering iron you buy is learning proper techniques for soldering. While you need to pre tin your iron, always heat the job, don't melt the solder with the iron. Apply the heat at one end of the connection and the solder at the other. Let the job melt the solder and it will flow towards the point the iron is applied to. Learn what a good solder joint looks like and what common mistakes like cold solder joints and joints with too little or too much solder look like. Learn to start with reliable mechanical connections before you solder. Solder should be use for assuring a reliable electrical connection, not a mechanical connection.

[Resident Loser]

...as Weller says "Keep your tip nuts tight"!

jimHJJ(...a good solder sucker such as a "Soldapullt" is a wise investment,,,)