Subwoofer help

[RobPu]

I need some help deciding what subwoofer I should go with. I have a Rotel RSP-1066 processor, Rotel RMB-1075 amplifier, and BW 602 S3 speakers with their largest center speaker. Right now I have a Carver Sunfire True subwoofer junior which I dont feel blends well with my other speakers. I am looking at the BW ASW 675 sub or the Pinnacle Supersonic sub. Does anyone have experience with either of these subs. I am also open for suggestions of other brands as long as they are not internet only companies. My room size is 18x14. I would like to keep it at or under $1000.00 US dollars.

[Worf101]

I own both the VTF-2 and VTF-3 and feel you could well with either model depending on how big you want run with your sub. I've a similar sized living room and go with the larger VTF-3 there and use a VTF-2 with my bedroom system. Check the reviews here and elsewhere and you can feel confident about them. Also, the folks at HSU are top-notch. They treat me like family and email me from time to time about how I like their products.

This is unsolicited praise from me. I don't work for them, just love their products.

Da Worfster :cool:

[Mr Peabody]

No one at Velodyne knows me from Adam, nor do I receive emails, however, I will give their product some unsolicited praise, at least the SPL series or above :) The SPL 10 might be in your price. I have the 1200 12" but I think it's over $1,200. I love my 1200, it gives some earth shaking low end without infringing on the rest of the frequency response. It also has some nice features, bypass X-over mode, auto turn on, very small cabinet with lots of power. I found them to be more of a true SUB-woofer than many other brands I've heard.

[FITFlyer98]

I have a question my manual says to split the connection if a right and left output are not available. It has another section that says you do not need to if you have a Dolby Digital receiver. My question is then is it preferred to split it on mine or not? It is not very clear in the manual what would ultimately be the preferred method. It is the Inifinity 1200s. Thanks for any input.

[Woochifer]

If you already have a subwoofer, I suggest that you first do some in-room measurements of your bass response and check for problematic frequency peaks. More so than anything, room induced problems like that can pretty ensure that nothing you buy will integrate properly with your mains. Things like bass traps and parametric equalizers can help correct the room related problems and make it much easier to blend the subwoofer in with the rest of the system. Regard of whether or not you ultimately decide to upgrade the subwoofer, correcting for room induced issues will help. And IMO, this is a far more significant upgrade than you would get by simply swapping out the sub.

[Redbeard]

I recall reading a review from someone on here and they said that the Athena P3 was a superb match to the B&W 602's. Goes low at 20hz and should play pretty loud at 150w rms. This sub was reviewed very highly by Stereophile, A/V guide and others. If you want to break the bank go for the Def Tech supbercube which has three drivers and goes so low your foundation will shake....

[Mr Peabody]

Typically receivers only offer a single output for LFE or sub, where most of the subwoofers I've seen have two inputs (L&R). So you have to use a Y adaptor to give both sub inputs a signal. And with those subs I've seen, their output has been twice as much when both inputs are used. I assume they offer L&R inputs for use with stereo preamp outs. I don't see what your receiver being DD would have to do with whether or not you split the signal.