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rightaway
09-14-2011, 06:51 AM
im looking for a good subwoofer for home use. i have a polk and a bose sub but when the volume gets loud, you barely hear them. i'm looking for something that you can feel but sounds good too. i listen to all types of music. from punk-acustic-rap

harley .guy07
09-14-2011, 10:54 AM
I would give a good look at SVS, Their subs seem to be able to deliver the goods for both theater and music and a lot of people use them. A music only sub company would be REL, they specialize in music only subwoofers.

Poultrygeist
09-14-2011, 01:41 PM
Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG

Hyfi
09-14-2011, 03:45 PM
Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG

How do you de-couple the mains sitting on top?

Poultrygeist
09-14-2011, 04:01 PM
The speakers on top ( full range single driver Tektons although I use several others ) are driven by a single ended tube amp while each bass driver is driven by it's own mono-block amp ( daisy chained together ) with built-in crossovers which I set at 80hz. The H-frame bass drivers are open in the rear and qualify as open baffles. I do a split feed of the CD signal. I probably have maybe $350 invested in the pair for the plywood, bass drivers and amps. The bass sounds better than I ever could have imagined.

Poultrygeist
09-14-2011, 04:05 PM
http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/medium/P6030005.JPG

Poultrygeist
09-14-2011, 04:14 PM
De-couple? The Tektons rest on a pad but since the H-frames don't vibrate like a sub ( a product of being open baffled ) it's not necessy as they act like a heavy speaker stand.

Sometimes I can post a picture and sometimes not.

Hyfi
09-15-2011, 03:22 AM
De-couple? The Tektons rest on a pad but since the H-frames don't vibrate like a sub ( a product of being open baffled ) it's not necessy as they act like a heavy speaker stand.

Sometimes I can post a picture and sometimes not.

Yeah, hard to see from the smaller one in the link. Next question, how do you handle all the hard tile and glass in that room.

Poultrygeist
09-15-2011, 04:41 AM
That's not my listening room that's my picture taking room.

Open baffle speakers, however, aren't nearly so room dependent as conventional speakers.

Hyfi
09-15-2011, 05:38 AM
That's not my listening room that's my picture taking room.

Open baffle speakers, however, aren't nearly so room dependent as conventional speakers.

Thanks for the answers. Nice looking setup and nice room!

2low2rl
09-15-2011, 10:05 PM
I have a sony 12

rightaway
09-16-2011, 06:04 PM
what kind of watts should i look for for a large room?

harley .guy07
09-16-2011, 06:56 PM
http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/medium/P6030005.JPG

Are those Dayton audio mono blocks driving those subs because I recognize the amps on the floor and from what you said it drives them well?

harley .guy07
09-16-2011, 07:09 PM
what kind of watts should i look for for a large room?

Its really about how the power amp that drives the subwoofer mates with the woofer itself. Given everything else is equal more power would be better in a larger room given there is more cubic feet of room to fill with bass but I have seen subs with huge amps do bad in a large room and subs with medium powered amps do great in a large room. its really all about how well its designed and how well you integrate it into the acoustics of the room that will be the things to concentrate on.

rightaway
09-16-2011, 07:22 PM
and how would i know that? is a downfacing sub better? am i looking for how big the box is?

rightaway
10-09-2011, 03:22 PM
would a Velodyne SPL-1200 make a good sub for music? it looks like it has a lot of power.

cackalacky
10-10-2011, 11:03 AM
Subs sound way to plodding for music so I built these H-frame bass drivers which are powered by mono-blocks with crossovers. They are easy to build and much cheaper than most subs.

gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/500/thumbs/P6030005.JPG

I'm intrigued with the H-frames. Do you think they're quick enough for Maggies?

Florian
10-10-2011, 02:44 PM
Its not really about speed. If the driver resonates at 40hz then it does it 40 times per second. No matter if ribbon, mylar or cone. Its how low the distortion is, overhang etc....

A tip from my side is the Velodyne DD10 Plus or a used Rel Studio with a Lyngdorf RP1.

Cheers

rightaway
10-10-2011, 05:00 PM
i have been looking to buy used. i'm looking to spend $300ish. if any body see any, please let me know.

blackraven
10-10-2011, 06:51 PM
The SPL series subs were very good subs. Non ported and very good sound. You will be very hard pressed to find a sub in the $300 range to compare. The SPL subs sold for $1K and higher and were phased out about 2 yrs ago. A used Velodyne DD sub will still cost over $1K, believe me, I have been looking at them for a while.

Here are some reviews of the SPL series-

Velodyne SPL-1200 Series II Subwoofer Review — Reviews and News from Audioholics (http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/subwoofers/velodyne-spl-1200-series-ii)

Velodyne SPL-1000 Ultra review | from TechRadar UK's expert reviews of Hi-fi and AV speakers (http://www.techradar.com/reviews/audio-visual/hi-fi-and-audio/hi-fi-and-av-speakers/velodyne-spl-1000-ultra-581121/review)

Poultrygeist
10-11-2011, 04:05 AM
The 15 inch Eminence Alphas in the H-Frames are full range bass drivers and their lighter magnets make them exceedingly fast in open baffle. They won't plumb the depths like my Sunfire but will cover the octave range of orchestral bass instruments. The lower registers of Joey DeFrancesco's Hammond B3 are a delight with the H-frames.

My sub is a brutish 2700 watt Bob Carver Sunfire ( True Subwoofer Signature model ) which doesn't come close to the H-Frames in terms of musical bass reproduction.

Poultrygeist
10-11-2011, 06:34 AM
One word about "fast bass" which is somewhat of a misnomer. Bass transients require quick response from the driver, a property that conflicts with design parameters that allow foundation rattling bass power. A sub with "fast bass" is merely one that responds quickly and accurately to transients. I also believe there is a decay factor present in subs which may account for the perception of slow or plodding bass.

My H-Frames pictured in this thread are not subs and are best defined as bass augmenters.

rightaway
10-11-2011, 09:50 AM
i'm looking at one series one Velodyne SPL-1200. the series two look way better. how do they compare?