Toslink card without all the other BS?

[phileserver39]

Firstly, sorry for blasting you all with my posts today. I promise I will get out of here after this question :)

I need a simple PCI/PCIe Toslink card for a DAC I will be purchasing. I am running Windows 7 for an OS. I don't need anything with converters built in (i.e. a soundcard). Any suggestions?

Also, is there a difference between S/PDIF and Toslink with respect to sound quality? I already have an ASUS STX card which has S/PDF out but some things I read say that Toslink is the way to go.

I am all about making changes only when they make sense from a audible gain versus $ standpoint. Stay with the ASUS S/PDIF out or go with another option? I welcome your viewpoints on what I should do.

Thanks for your time and expertise,

jason

[02audionoob]

What would be better about Toslink than S/PDIF?

[Feanor]

Firstly, sorry for blasting you all with my posts today. I promise I will get out of here after this question :)

I need a simple PCI/PCIe Toslink card for a DAC I will be purchasing. I am running Windows 7 for an OS. I don't need anything with converters built in (i.e. a soundcard). Any suggestions?

Also, is there a difference between S/PDIF and Toslink with respect to sound quality? I already have an ASUS STX card which has S/PDF out but some things I read say that Toslink is the way to go.

I am all about making changes only when they make sense from a audible gain versus $ standpoint. Stay with the ASUS S/PDIF out or go with another option? I welcome your viewpoints on what I should do.

Thanks for your time and expertise,

jason
Not proclaiming myself an expert, but from all I've heard, Toslink's potential advantages (depending on local conditions) are (1) it won't transmit or capture RFI interference, and (2) it is immune to jitter-causing impedance mismatches that sometimes effect S/PDIF connections.

Other than that, S/PDIF is, as I hear, inherently less jitter-prone. To avoid S/PDIF-generated jitter, keep the connectors either very short, < 1 foot, or quite long, > 30 feet. (Toslink connectors should always be as short as possible.)

Myself, given the choice I'd always choose S/PDIF connections. I'd only use Toslink if that's all the source and/or target had, and I would avoid conversions.

[02audionoob]

I suppose there's the electrical noise issue with computers. Creative's USB devices have optical inputs and outputs.

http://www.minidisc.org/images/creative_soundblastermp3.jpg

[poppachubby]

Honestly alot of it has to do with the cabling itself. Either one has advantages but IMO I agree with Feanor, for anything over a foot I like to use 75ohm coax.

I recently was gifted a Tributaries 75 ohm coax cable. I A/B'd it against the 1 foot Monster Toslink I was using. It was a "higher end" Monster, not a cheapy. Believe it or not the Tributaries cable had way more clarity and detail. I was surprised.

Anyhow, you should just buy the device which suits your needs best and not worry too much about the means of signal transfer.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/5076542389_8af5bae2b0_z.jpg