Do you own a Class D Amp???

[Ajani]

I keep hearing a lot about how much Class D amps have improved over the years and according to some persons, they are as good (or even better) than traditional A/B amps now... So I'm just wondering how many forum posters own a Class D amp... And if you do, what it your opinion on their sound compared to more traditional alternatives?

[Geoffcin]

I keep hearing a lot about how much Class D amps have improved over the years and according to some persons, they are as good (or even better) than traditional A/B amps now... So I'm just wondering how many forum posters own a Class D amp... And if you do, what it your opinion on their sound compared to more traditional alternatives?

Yes, I've owned class D amps for years. I puchased a PS Audio HCA-2 to replace my old PS Audio 200c amp as soon as I read the review in Stereophile. It was everything they said about it and more. Right now it's doing duty in my HT rig as I'm having a fling with tubes at the moment, but I would still put it up there with some of the best amps money can buy for anywhere near it's price point. I would call the amp neutral, smooth, grainless, and just slightly loose compared to a lot of A/B SS amps in it's class. Certainly it doesn't have the "grip" of a Krell or Classe amp. T

I also have a fun little "T" amp that I occasionally get to stun people with. While it can drive my maggies ( I gotta find that pic!), what's really fun is hooking it up to a couple of my more sensitive vintage speakers at a block party and get them rocking out. With music blaring at 90dB+ and no gear visable besided the speakers people start wonder what's driving them and I show them a palm sized amp connected to an Ipod nano!

[Mr Peabody]

My Linn amp is Class V according to them and I'm not sure how it differs from Class D but the end result is similar, an amp weighing in at 11 lbs that does, or rated, at 125x5. This is an older model and IMO does a great job. It can drive all five of my Dyn's in the HT set up to higher levels than I care to listen to and remain clean. Using the Primare preamp I thought the 5125 to be a bit bright but paired with the Marantz the highs are about right. I think the amp sounds very good. It also remains very cool even after running a couple movies.

T+A on some amps use a digital power supply, not sure what Class they are supposed to be, these amps are excellent.

I believe like tubes vs solid state, no matter the technology we just have to evaluate the amp on it's own merits. And as with my Linn it may also depend on other associated gear..

[Ajani]

Thanks guys... I had not given Class D serious consideration before, since I was under the (wrong) impression that its real benefit was just efficiency, rather than good sound quality...

[Geoffcin]

Thanks guys... I had not given Class D serious consideration before, since I was under the (wrong) impression that its real benefit was just efficiency, rather than good sound quality...

There's at least two class D topologies; ICE developed by B&O (what my PS Audio uses), and Tripath who calls their tech a class "T" amp. Both have similar high power efficiency, and both sound great! I can tell you that even with my little $40 T amp the sound quality is remarkable.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/300-380_L.jpg

[JohnMichael]

I own the Onkyo A-9555 integrated amp which is class D. The Onkyo received a positive review in Stereophile and a Class C rating. I do not think it was up to driving the Mo Fi OML 1's but I have not tried it yet with the Monitor Audio RS 6's. Very nice for an inexpensive integrated amp and better than the int. amp it replaced. The longer I listened the more I felt something was not quite natural.

[Feanor]

I keep hearing a lot about how much Class D amps have improved over the years and according to some persons, they are as good (or even better) than traditional A/B amps now... So I'm just wondering how many forum posters own a Class D amp... And if you do, what it your opinion on their sound compared to more traditional alternatives?
I've owned three class D (or switching) amps:

Panasonic SR-XA25 receiver. This is based on a Texas Instruments chip. This amp seemed to me to be quite bright for a long time but eventually burned in to a pretty decent sound -- after about 400 hours. I still have this amp currently powering a secondary, stereo HT system.
Bel Canto eVo2i integrated amp. Based on a Tripath chip; (current Bel Cantos are ICEpower based). A very transparent, neutral, but some what "grey" or "bleached" sounding as you would say. I sold this to buy a pair of Monarchy SM-70 Pro amps which have a bit more tube-like "body", a warmer or at least slightly darker character.
Class D Audio SDS-258. This is based on an International Rectifier chip. It's the amp I'm currently using. The sound is extremely transparent (like the Bel Canto or possibly even more so), and very neutral. Initially I thought the sound was a bit bright. However the impression of brightness has gone away after a couple of hundred hours, plus the use of the Magneplanar tweeter resistors to lower their about put by a decibel or so. I don't feel that it sounds "bleached", much less harsh or etched as some s/s amps can. Of the three amps the SDS-258 is the best to my ear. It has the best resolution and air and delivers instrument timbres with the best accuracy.Interesting perhaps ... When I replace the Bel Canto with the Monarchy, I felt the latter sounded better on about 70% of recordings -- however these were not the best recordings but rather those that had always sounded harsh or sharp. I was pretty happy with the Monarchys for over 2 years but I was aware I was missing something on the best albums. The Class-D-Audio SDS amps were cheap and I though by trying one it might clarify me what I was missing with the Monarchys. On the other hand I didn't expect too much given the low price.

So now I have replace the Monarchys with the SDS-258. I now find the SDS is better than the Monarchys on 70% of albums -- but in this case they are the best recordings.

[Poultrygeist]

I just posted a picture of my Sure TK2050 based Class D amp and Meanwell PS in my gallery. It's a near plug and play board amp which costs under $100 including the nice Meanwell PS. I've since changed the insides a bit and added better binding posts. Great sound for peanuts.

[Ajani]

I just posted a picture of my Sure TK2050 based Class D amp and Meanwell PS in my gallery. It's a near plug and play board amp which costs under $100 including the nice Meanwell PS. I've since changed the insides a bit and added better binding posts. Great sound for peanuts.

I like the wooden box... I keep thinking that I could make a box for a class D amp that matches the Open Baffles I'm going to make...

[Feanor]

I just posted a picture of my Sure TK2050 based Class D amp and Meanwell PS in my gallery. It's a near plug and play board amp which costs under $100 including the nice Meanwell PS. I've since changed the insides a bit and added better binding posts. Great sound for peanuts.
Nice case! I like the plexiglass idea.

Of course class D's don't put out nearly as much heat as other types. There's probably no significant risk, but I think some minimal ventilation on the top and bottom wouldn't be a bad idea just the same.

[Ajani]

Feanor and Poultrygeist,

Is there any serious risk involved in using a wooden box instead of a metal one??? I just need to know if there is a chance of.. oh... setting myself on fire or something like that...

[Poultrygeist]

Wood burns but doesn't conduct electricity. The Sure amp has a small fan atop the heat sinks that runs when the unit warms up. The Meanwell power supply has a fan as well. I also drilled 4 large holes in the case bottom next to the board for added ventilation ( you can see them in the other photo I just added to my gallery ).

[Poultrygeist]

Here's a very positive review of a CDA sibling of Bill's class D amp.


http://www.affordableaudio.org/aa2010-08.pdf

[Poultrygeist]

Wooden case or metal - it's doesn't matter as these class D amps have floating grounds so grounding to the chassis is not necessary.

[Ajani]

Here's a very positive review of a CDA sibling of Bill's class D amp.


http://www.affordableaudio.org/aa2010-08.pdf

While I'd love Bill's own because it's balanced and supposed to sound better, but that one looks dead simple - just plug and play (zero soldering)... And I could always worry about building a case at a later date

[Feanor]

Here's a very positive review of a CDA sibling of Bill's class D amp.


http://www.affordableaudio.org/aa2010-08.pdf
I haven't heard the CDA, but I wouldn't call the SDS warm, rather it's neutral. However, if not warm, it definitely doesn't have the "etch" or grain that many s/s amp have.

But apparently the CDA is like the SDA in having superb detail, i.e., resolution, which usualy translates into transparency and air. ("Detail" without transparency is really just etch, not real resolution.)

[Ajani]

Hmmm... My fear of Feanor's model is the need to solder the XLRs... I wonder if I could just cut off the ends of one side of some cheap XLR cables I have and hook them directly to the circuit board (using the screw terminals) and connect the other end to my DAC output... Then I could get everything up and running without first having to build a pretty box (that could always happen at a later date)...

[Poultrygeist]

Haven't done XLR's but with each RCA's input one only has to solder the negative wire to the lag and the positive wire to the center pin which is the signal pin and is always positive. If you can plug in a soldering iron you can do it.

If needed we can walk you through this.

[Ajani]

Haven't done XLR's but with each RCA's input one only has to solder the negative wire to the lag and the positive wire to the center pin which is the signal pin and is always positive. If you can plug in a soldering iron you can do it.

If needed we can walk you through this.

I'm sure soldering XLR or RCA isn't hard, but it would require me to buy a soldering gun and solder...

[Feanor]

Hmmm... My fear of Feanor's model is the need to solder the XLRs... I wonder if I could just cut off the ends of one side of some cheap XLR cables I have and hook them directly to the circuit board (using the screw terminals) and connect the other end to my DAC output... Then I could get everything up and running without first having to build a pretty box (that could always happen at a later date)...
You could likely do that. XLR has three wires: +, -, and ground; of course you'd need be able to identfy each on the cut end of the cable. You'd need to cut off the male end of the cable, (the output end). (I know: sounds pretty gruesome!). You would need to be sure what wire was which polarity: to do that you might need a continuity checker to check between the remaining, female end and the ends of the three wires.

Here's a pic of the ends of the XLR connectors:

http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio//500/XLR_polarity.jpg

Or you could jus get yourself a soldering iron. Here (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=374-100)'s your best deal in that regard.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/374-100_s.jpg

[Poultrygeist]

Instead of reading a book I've tackled the giant thread on Class D over at AC. Sounds like those who go with single ended inputs on the SD reap the same advantages as with XLR's. I'm not sure how that is but that's what I keep reading.

One guy on AC prefers his MW with his horns over the CDA he built ( apples and oranges? ).

What's stoked my interest is not only the flexibility and inexpensive slam of 120X2 into 8 ohms but the great fun of building it. I bet Feanor's would love to do another one. Right?

Based on my gear specs Tom says I should go with the Super D 254.

Feanor, how tall should my enclosure be to clear the tranny and could I easily get it all inside a 12"X12" case?

[Feanor]

....
... I bet Feanor's would love to do another one. Right?

Based on my gear specs Tom says I should go with the Super D 254.

Feanor, how tall should my enclosure be to clear the tranny and could I easily get it all inside a 12"X12" case?
Yes, Mr Geist, I would like to build another. :1:

My case is internally 15.5 x 12 x 2.5". There isn't much room to spare on top of the transformer, so I'd look for 2.5" in height. 12 x 12" will be enough to get in the transformer and modules I'm pretty sure if you snug things together a bit more than I did ...

http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio//500/medium/CDA_SDS-258_open_1_.jpg

[Ajani]

Perfect solution for either Feanor or Mr. Geist: Build an amp for me... :arf:

[Poultrygeist]

I've only done the much less complex Sure amp. Feanor's the man!

[Feanor]

Perfect solution for either Feanor or Mr. Geist: Build an amp for me... :arf:
I might consider it :idea: :aureola:... email me if you're really, really interested and we can discuss details.

Remember, though, that results would be more practical than elegant.

[Poultrygeist]

I like Feanor's green face plate which is unique and adds a nice organic flavor to the build :-)

Is the top green and vented?

I love the excitement of those guys posting pics of their class D creations on AC. Same kind of excitement I had as a child building model airplanes.

Feanor, what did you build as a kid?

[Feanor]

I like Feanor's green face plate which is unique and adds a nice organic flavor to the build :-)

Is the top green and vented?

I love the excitement of those guys posting pics of their class D creations on AC. Same kind of excitement I had as a child building model airplanes.

Feanor, what did you build as a kid?
PG, as a kid, (those many, many years ago), all I build was hundreds of plastic model kits: planes, ships, tanks, etc.

Time for some new Class D Audio SDS-258 pictures:

Front -- now modified for Power On/Off and Standby/On LEDs and Standy switch; illuminated are the amber, Standby mode LEDs:
http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio//500/DSCN0794-X1.jpg

Top -- showing ventilation holes drilled above the amp module; there are holes in the bottom too:
http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio//500/DSCN0797-X1.jpg

Inside -- showing the additional wiring for the LEDs and Standy switch:
http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio//500/DSCN0799-X1.jpg

[Poultrygeist]

Were the LEDs included in the kit? Looks like the LEDs have leads that just plug into the amp board?

I picked up some stand-offs and 6 amp slow blow fuses and holders from Rat Shack in anticipation of putting something together in the near future.

[Feanor]

Were the LEDs included in the kit? Looks like the LEDs have leads that just plug into the amp board?

I picked up some stand-offs and 6 amp slow blow fuses and holders from Rat Shack in anticipation of putting something together in the near future.
The LEDs themselves aren't included although the leads are actually included with the amp module. The leads just plug into the board via their Molex terminations.

[Poultrygeist]

Parts Express finally sent me a new Sure Class D amp replacement for my defective unit. I mounted it in the same case as shown in my gallery pictures but with a few mods.

I drilled small holes in the plexi cover above the heat sink fan so the hot air now escapes through the top cover. The fan now cycles on and off as needed. I also drilled holes above the Meanwell PS fan although I've yet to see it come on. I added an inline 6 amp fuse to the power cord before the on-off switch. Next time I'll use a cut down Walmart Wood's patio cord left over from a DIY speaker cable project as a power cord.

My friend is a Dynaco fanatic and yesterday he brought over a reconditioned PAS-3 tube preamp from the golden age of sound and I was just floored at how good this ancient pre sounded when paired with the Sure Class D and Zu Omens. Amazing is all I can say!

Folks if you have limited to zero DIY electronic skills like myself you too can throw together this Sure amp with Meanwell PS and for less than $100 you can get high end sound. Although I soldered the inputs and speaker terminals these can be crimped on with solderless connectors and everything else has screw downs. The Sure amp is simpler with only two compents vs the three of Feanor's SDS. I do love the fact that the SDS/CDA boards are assembled in the US by persons with disabilities ( can't help my spec. needs background bias here ).

The neat thing about the Sure Class D is you can access a Parts Express technician 24-7should a question arise. There's a thread of over 100 pages regarding the Sure amp on Audio Circle but most of the information does not include the new improved Sure amp version with the heat sink fan, a feature the SDS/CDA lacks. I'd love to see a shoot out between these two class D's and now I'm convinced the new Sure would hold it's own.

Some folks believe the TK2050 as used in the Sure is the best sounding chip ever produced. I do believe Sure's implimentation of this chip far exceeds all the other class D amps I've owned ( XR-55, Topping TP21, SI, and Dayton DTA-100 ).

I read somewhere that 90% of the cost of high end components goes for cosmetics. If this is true no wonder the Sure at less than $100 sounds like a $1000 amp plus you get the fun of doing your own cosmetics for free. If you can't build a case use an old kitchen drawer and have Lowes cut a plexi-glass cover for the top and call it your "Tripath Under Glath" :-)


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=320-300

[Ajani]

Parts Express finally sent me a new Sure Class D amp replacement for my defective unit. I mounted it in the same case as shown in my gallery pictures but with a few mods.

I drilled small holes in the plexi cover above the heat sink fan so the hot air now escapes through the top cover. The fan now cycles on and off as needed. I also drilled holes above the Meanwell PS fan although I've yet to see it come on. I added an inline 6 amp fuse to the power cord before the on-off switch. Next time I'll use a cut down Walmart Wood's patio cord left over from a DIY speaker cable project as a power cord.

My friend is a Dynaco fanatic and yesterday he brought over a reconditioned PAS-3 tube preamp from the golden age of sound and I was just floored at how good this ancient pre sounded when paired with the Sure Class D and Zu Omens. Amazing is all I can say!

Folks if you have limited to zero DIY electronic skills like myself you too can throw together this Sure amp with Meanwell PS and for less than $100 you can get high end sound. Although I soldered the inputs and speaker terminals these can be crimped on with solderless connectors and everything else has screw downs. The Sure amp is simpler with only two compents vs the three of Feanor's SDS. I do love the fact that the SDS/CDA boards are assembled in the US by persons with disabilities ( can't help my spec. needs background bias here ).

The neat thing about the Sure Class D is you can access a Parts Express technician 24-7should a question arise. There's a thread of over 100 pages regarding the Sure amp on Audio Circle but most of the information does not include the new improved Sure amp version with the heat sink fan, a feature the SDS/CDA lacks. I'd love to see a shoot out between these two class D's and now I'm convinced the new Sure would hold it's own.

Some folks believe the TK2050 as used in the Sure is the best sounding chip ever produced. I do believe Sure's implimentation of this chip far exceeds all the other class D amps I've owned ( XR-55, Topping TP21, SI, and Dayton DTA-100 ).

I read somewhere that 90% of the cost of high end components goes for cosmetics. If this is true no wonder the Sure at less than $100 sounds like a $1000 amp plus you get the fun of doing your own cosmetics for free. If you can't build a case use an old kitchen drawer and have Lowes cut a plexi-glass cover for the top and call it your "Tripath Under Glath" :-)


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=320-300

Thanks... That answers the question I was planning to ask: Whether anyone has tried the Dayton DTA-100?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-383

I've seen the Sure setup video on Parts Express... totally plug and play... the case is optional if you are really lazy/lacking in DIY skills like me... And the price is sweet...

[Ajani]

Poultry, how does the Sure compare to the MiniWatt?

Ideally, I'd love to have at least 3 amps on hand to play around with: my monster 300 watt A/B Emo XPA-2, maybe a 30 watt Class D and the 3 watt Miniwatt SET... But clearly I want to do it on the cheap and with little or no DIY....

[Feanor]

I don't recall whether I mentioned the Connexelectronics semi-DIY components, (see HERE (http://connexelectronic.com/)). They have far more product options that Class D Audio, (though not US-made), and much better documentation of their products.

I'd like to try their TA3020 v3d (Tripath) amp, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/121?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)), combined with their 6x18000uF 71V
power supply, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/89?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)). Ajani, take note: this is a no-solder option given the input connectors are on the board.

http://connexelectronic.com/images/TA3020v3d.JPG
http://connexelectronic.com/images/PS18K71E.JPG

[Poultrygeist]

The Sure 100*2 @ 4 ohms in real world power is perhaps 30-40 wpc and that is plenty for all my HE full range speakers. If I needed more power the SDS/CDA amps would be a no brainer.

I use the tiny DTA-100 with a PS1 ( SCPH-1001 ) in my bedroom to drive the Tektons 4.5-A very amorous combination says the wife and it takes up so little space on the bottom shelf of my night stand.

The Meanwell Power Supply for the Sure is three to four times larger than the DTA-100 PS. Although I like the DTA you're paying for a case and cosmetics vs what you get with the Sure. Both the Sure and the DTA use the same TK2050 chip but the Sure makes the most of it plus it has the advantage of a beefy switching power supply.

I originally thought the Sure was pretty good but before we really got to know each other she developed a noisy channel which I incorrectly attributed to some of my ham fisted efforts. When I called PE and told them about the static in one channel they were quick to have me return it for a replacement ( early design flaw maybe? ). I don't know all of the improvements to this board but the new version seems far better than the one I had originally.

I bought the board to plug and play with no future plans for an enclosure until I realized just how easy it was to mount in a permanent case. If you get it, I'll walk you through the alternate connections for putting it in a case or a PE tech will do the same.

While you can't mono-block with the Sure you can cascade additional boards together off the same power supply - what a cheap way to get multi-room sound.

[Ajani]

I don't recall whether I mentioned the Connexelectronics semi-DIY components, (see HERE (http://connexelectronic.com/)). They have far more product options that Class D Audio, (though not US-made), and much better documentation of their products.

I'd like to try their TA3020 v3d (Trimpath) amp, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/121?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)), combined with their 6x18000uF 71V
power supply, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/89?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)). Ajani, take note: this is a no-solder option given the input connectors are on the board.

http://connexelectronic.com/images/TA3020v3d.JPG
http://connexelectronic.com/images/PS18K71E.JPG

That combo looks very tempting as well... Looks like I just need to screw the wires from the power supply to the amp board and then screw in a power cable to the power supply (so the same plug and play installation as the Sure)...

It has more power than the Sure and Balanced inputs.... Of course it is about double the price as well... But at $200 it's still well within budget for such a project....

And like the Sure I can leave it naked for now and build a sweet enclosure whenever I'm ready...

[Poultrygeist]

There are input connections are on the Sure board ( like those in Feanor's pic ) but they are too flemsy for anyone doing much plugging and unplugging.

I wish Feanor would get the TA3020 so we could get a comparison with the SDS.

I'll always love the MiniWatt driving HE FR speakers. Mine has the diode mod with Russian/WE tube upgrades which took it to another level. Yesterday I loved the slam of the Sure/PAS-3 with the Omens but today I might go for the detailed sweetness of the MW. I'll never be able to practice audio monogomy.

[Ajani]

There are input connections are on the Sure board ( like those in Feanor's pic ) but they are too flemsy for anyone doing much plugging and unplugging.

I think that's the deal-breaker for me with the Sure Board... I hate RCA connections... Even one on my XPA-2 amp is a bit loose... XLR is much nicer as you don't have to worry about damaging the connection...

Also my DAC1 sounds best from the XLR output...


I wish Feanor would get the TA3020 so we could get a comparison with the SDS.

Seconded!


I'll always love the MiniWatt driving HE FR speakers. Mine has the diode mod with Russian/WE tube upgrades which took it to another level. Yesterday I loved the slam of the Sure/PAS-3 with the Omens but today I might go for the detailed sweetness of the MW. I'll never be able to practice audio monogomy.

I think that's one of the sweet parts of this hobby that persons often miss out on... If you only look to go up the ladder with upgrades, you can miss out on the simple joy of having variety...

I enjoy both my living room HiFi and my bedroom headphone rig.... So I can't wait to have a Class D or Set system as another option...

[Ajani]

Hmmm, seems connexelectronic recommends their switching amp over the linear one:

http://connexelectronic.com/images/A1000SMPS.JPG

http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_46/products_id/110

That should be a lot shorter and allow for a smaller chassis...

Also, I'm not sure if the linear supply needs a transformer...

The funny thing is that they have this product, which has the amp and switching power supply together in one module... so all that is missing is the BIPS (inputs) and it would have been a complete plug and play amp...

http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/cPath/39_47/products_id/119

Kind of weird that they have one amp module with inputs but no power supply and another with power supply but no inputs... When's the all in one due out?

[Poultrygeist]

I had XLR's on my Classe amp and tubed CDP but could tell no difference in the sound quality vs the rca's. XLR's were developed for professional audio use where positive connections were manditory in studio work. Several of my RCA cables are threaded and when tightened down won't budge.

[Ajani]

I had XLR's on my Classe amp and tubed CDP but could tell no difference in the sound quality vs the rca's. XLR's were developed for professional audio use where positive connections were manditory in studio work. Several of my RCA cables are threaded and when tightened down won't budge.

I don't think XLR is always superior... I don't hear any difference when using XLR or RCA between my Emotiva DAC and Amp... But with the Benchmark, the XLR is better...

Also my issue with RCA is not the cables slipping off, but the connections on the gear breaking off/ becoming loose on the chassis... I have some tight RCA cables that will abuse a weak RCA connection on an amp...

[Feanor]

Hmmm, seems connexelectronic recommends their switching amp over the linear one:
...

http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_46/products_id/110

That should be a lot shorter and allow for a smaller chassis...

Also, I'm not sure if the linear supply needs a transformer...

The funny thing is that they have this product, which has the amp and switching power supply together in one module... so all that is missing is the BIPS (inputs) and it would have been a complete plug and play amp...

http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/cPath/39_47/products_id/119

Kind of weird that they have one amp module with inputs but no power supply and another with power supply but no inputs... When's the all in one due out?
I don't think the SMPS requires a separate transformer. There is degree of prejudice agains switching mode supplies; pundits generally recommend linear supplies. I don't personally have a position, but I did go linear in the case of the Class-D-Audio, though there is an SMPS available.

If you have space constraints the V4 looks pretty attactive. Say, Ajani, why not buy one let us know? :3: At the very least it would make a great sub amp: 1340W on 4 Ohms in bridged mode Wow!

[Ajani]

I don't think the SMPS requires a separate transformer. There is degree of prejudice agains switching mode supplies; pundits generally recommend linear supplies. I don't personally have a position, but I did go linear in the case of the Class-D-Audio, though there is an SMPS available.

If you have space constraints the V4 looks pretty attactive. Say, Ajani, why not buy one let us know? :3: At the very least it would make a great sub amp: 1340W on 4 Ohms in bridged mode Wow!

The SMPS doesn't need a transformer (it has one built in, if I'm not mistaken)... But I think the Linear power supply may need one... Also, it seems you can just use the amp module you suggested (TA3020 v3d) direct with a transformer and no additional linear power supply. According to the manual, you can use it direct with a transformer, with an external linear power supply or with a SMPS:

http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/TA3020_Audio_Amplifier_Module_v3c.pdf

However, while they list the benefit of using the SMPS, they don't mention the benefit of using a linear PS...

Eventually I'll just have to bite the bullet and go for either one of these models or something from Class D...

Though I'd be really happy if Chris would release version 5 or E or whatever with the SMPS, Amp and BIPS all on one board... It seems the most obvious step for really lazy persons like myself or persons who want the amp to be as small as possible... just screw in the power cord and that's it...

[Feanor]

The SMPS doesn't need a transformer (it has one built in, if I'm not mistaken)... But I think the Linear power supply may need one... Also, it seems you can just use the amp module you suggested (TA3020 v3d) direct with a transformer and no additional linear power supply. According to the manual, you can use it direct with a transformer, with an external linear power supply or with a SMPS:

http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/TA3020_Audio_Amplifier_Module_v3c.pdf

...
I see you're right about the v3d. It has its own built-in power supply and requires only a transformer.

Looking at the schematic in the v3d documentation, above, it cleary has its own bridge rectifier and hence can be powered directly by the AC from a transformer; (they specify +/- 30 to 42 VAC). Filtering is provided by the pair of 10,000 uF capacitors that are obvious in the pictures. However they mention that an external linear PS can be used but "the rectifier bridge from the board must be bypassed". They almost seem to recommend this since larger capcitors will reduce "bus pumping".

OK, so if you do wanted to use an external power supply, (linear or switching mode), looks like you would be better off buying the v3b, (here (http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/TA3020_Audio_Amplifier_Module_v3b.pdf)), that doesn't have it's own bridge rectifier. Of course the v3b doesn't have integrated XLR connectors and, in fact, it doesn't support balance input at all.

[Ajani]

I see you're right about the v3d. It has its own built-in power supply and requires only a transformer.

Looking at the schematic in the v3d documentation, above, it clearl has its own bridge rectifier and hence can be powered directly by the AC from a transformer; (they specify +/- 30 to 42 VAC). Filtering is provided by the pair of 10,000 uF capacitors that are obvious in the pictures. However they mention that an external linear PS can be used but "the rectifier bridge from the board must be bypass". They almost seem to recommend this since larger capcitors will reduce "bus pumping".

They also have the option to upgrade those capacitors to a pair of the same 18000 uF 71V in the power supply you're considering... Though of course the power supply has 6 of those capacitors rather than just the pair on the amp board...

I suppose an advantage is that someone could always start small and just buy the amp and transformer, but later on add an external linear power supply...

[Ajani]

OK, I think I've decided on this combo:

TA3020 v3d (Tripath) amp, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/121?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)),

combined with their SMPS800R power supply, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/124?osCsid=74q6c9qgpgmn12504d9mmjcij1)).

http://connexelectronic.com/images/TA3020v3d.JPG
http://connexelectronic.com/images/SMPS800R.JPG

Both use the same size board. All the inputs are on the amp board and the Mains IEC Power Connector is on the power supply, so I wouldn't need to do any soldering or crimping at all, even when I eventually build a case...

Also they should be able to fit in a 1RU case the size of my DAC1, which would be ideal...

[Feanor]

OK, I think I've decided on this combo:

TA3020 v3d (Tripath) amp, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/121?osCsid=ielv4jgqdrbb41qd5d14ckmb95)),

combined with their SMPS800R power supply, (here (http://connexelectronic.com/product_info.php/products_id/124?osCsid=74q6c9qgpgmn12504d9mmjcij1)).
....

Both use the same size board. All the inputs are on the amp board and the Mains IEC Power Connector is on the power supply, so I wouldn't need to do any soldering or crimping at all, even when I eventually build a case...

Also they should be able to fit in a 1RU case the size of my DAC1, which would be ideal...
Hey, great, Ajani. That is an appealing combination, (especially considering your solderphobia).

I'll be interested to hear how SMPS is connected to the v3d. I don't understand whether or how you must by pass the rectifier on the amp (or PS as the case might be). I'd email Connexelectronics or ask the question on forum where the Connexe. operator hangs out -- I forget which one that is, though.

[Ajani]

Hey, great, Ajani. That is an appealing combination, (especially considering your solderphobia).

I'll be interested to hear how SMPS is connected to the v3d. I don't understand whether or how you must by pass the rectifier on the amp (or PS as the case might be). I'd email Connexelectronics or ask the question on forum where the Connexe. operator hangs out -- I forget which one that is, though.

I already PMed Cristi (Connexe) at diyAudio and he says he will have a manual out shortly, showing how to bypass the rectifier... Also that if I order those 2 components at the same time, he'll bypass it for me....

At approx. $243 (including $9 for upgraded MOS-FET's), it looks to be the ticket... The only thing I'm considering is whether to opt for the cooling fan ($4)....

[Poultrygeist]

If you ever consider putting it in a case I'd get the fan. My little Sure Tripath makes more heat than I realized and it's fan silently cycles on and off. Now if I play it with the top cover off the fan never comes on.

Great looking combo. Hope you pull the trigger soon!

[Ajani]

If you ever consider putting it in a case I'd get the fan. My little Sure Tripath makes more heat than I realized and it's fan silently cycles on and off. Now if I play it with the top cover off the fan never comes on.

Great looking combo. Hope you pull the trigger soon!

Thanks! I'll definitely get the fan...

Not sure how soon I'm going to pull the trigger, as I need to buy my Audio Nirvana drivers as well...

I keep thinking how sweet it would be to use a pair of these little amps to make some active, open baffle speakers with the AN drivers...

Whether I just make an amp to match the dimensions of my DAC1 or make active speakers, it should be fun to hear how it all sounds...