power load on ac jack?

[cgibsong002]

What kind of power load can the ac jack handle on the rear of a receiver? (sony str-v200 if it makes a difference). As of right now, I have a small sub hooked up to it since this sub doesn't have an auto on feature. I'm wondering if I can plug in a three way splitter into that jack and also plug in my Presonus Firebox (DAC) or possibly even my CD player as well.

I don't know how these things are wired, so I'm not sure if that plug is simply a straight bypass to the main power source, or if splitting it out would be a bad idea for the receiver.

[Mr Peabody]

I definitely would not use a splitter back there. The outlets usually have a power rating beside them on the back of the receiver given in watts. I think typically they were made to power one light component like a tuner, tape deck, nothing that would draw much current. A single DAC would be fine. It should also say "switched" or "unswitched". Unswitched means it will live all the time where switched means the power will shut off when the receiver does. If it was me I wouldn't try plugging a sub in there.

[Smokey]

I don't know how these things are wired, so I'm not sure if that plug is simply a straight bypass to the main power source, or if splitting it out would be a bad idea for the receiver.

Asr Peabody point out, these outlets have an output rating which mean they are fused (other wise they be fire hazzard). On my amp, the outlet is rated at 100 watts maximum which mean you can run any component of that outlet that draw less than 1 amp.

(Amp * Volts= watts)
(1 A * 110 V= 110 watts)

[cgibsong002]

mine is 120 watts and is powering a 100 watt sub. The firebox runs 10 watts.

Am I kind of pushing it there, or is it safe as long as i'm not way over the limit?

And it is switchable, which is why I want to do this so I can turn everything on with the receivers remote

[Glen B]

Am I kind of pushing it there, or is it safe as long as i'm not way over the limit?

You're cutting it close. Also consider that the turn-on surge from the sub may slowly degrade the contacts of the receiver's power switch over time. A smart power strip with remote switching will solve your problem. See the following link to a Belkin power strip with automatic switching @ $30.00. You plug your receiver into the sensor outlet and sub into one of the controlled outlets. When the receiver is turned on, the strip will also turn on the sub and vice versa when you power down the receiver. There are other similar power strips around if you can find one. Niles Audio, Russound, and Xantech make remote switchers specifically for A/V use but they cost probably almost as much as your sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-F7C007q-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2/ref=pd_sim_e_3

[cgibsong002]

You're cutting it close. Also consider that the turn-on surge from the sub may slowly degrade the contacts of the receiver's power switch over time. A smart power strip with remote switching will solve your problem. See the following link to a Belkin power strip with automatic switching @ $30.00. You plug your receiver into the sensor outlet and sub into one of the controlled outlets. When the receiver is turned on, the strip will also turn on the sub and vice versa when you power down the receiver. There are other similar power strips around if you can find one. Niles Audio, Russound, and Xantech make remote switchers specifically for A/V use but they cost probably almost as much as your sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-F7C007q-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2/ref=pd_sim_e_3


hey, thanks guy. i've never heard of those, and you're right, that would exactly solve my problems. thank you sir! :biggrin5: