Help with Info: Cheapest Passi ve Pre

[jrhymeammo]

Hey Guys,

I would appreciate it if you guys can tell me of the Cheapest Passive-Pre that you know of.It might be better to have XLR out, but that is not absolutely neccesary. I would prefer to have at least RCA and not just 1/4".

I'm pursuing this because my integrated amp does not have pre-outputs
I would like to connect a cheap passive-pre to Tape-Output and use it to control output voltage of Tape-Out.
My idea is to give Powered Sub a try with a Behringer FD.
I haven't made up my mind, but would like to consider the total cost.

Here some some of the units I have considered:

NHT PVC PRO $79
http://store.nhthifi.com/NHT-PVC-Pro?sc=12&category=1213
http://www.audioadvisor.com/images/NHTPVCPRO_REAR.jpg


Axiom Passive Preamp w/Halco or Caddock resistors ($135/$160)
http://luminousaudio.com/axiomrca.html
http://luminousaudio.com/Images/axiomnewknob_LG.jpg



I would appreciate any input.
Thanks,

JRA

[E-Stat]

I would appreciate it if you guys can tell me of the Cheapest Passive-Pre that you know of.
If you possess basic soldering skills, you can make one for about $15 using easy to find Radio Shack parts. I can provide the recipe if you like.

rw

[jrhymeammo]

Hey E,

Send me some info, please.
I can solder, just can't de-solder.... I think this will be a great excuse for me to skill up on my soldering skillz anyways. It all goes well, I'll make a 2nd one with good parts.

Thanks,
JRA

[E-Stat]

Send me some info, please.
Here (http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=57638) you go. BTW, the resistor isn't required, but is used to change the taper of the pot.

http://home.cablelynx.com/~rhw/audio/se1.jpg

I, too ended up building a new one with better parts since I use it in the main system with my CDP. I used DACT attenuators, JPS Labs wire, Cardas connectors and a Par-Metals aluminum case.

http://home.cablelynx.com/~rhw/audio/se2.jpg

rw

[audio amateur]

Thanks for sharing

[poppachubby]

Here (http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=57638) you go. BTW, the resistor isn't required, but is used to change the taper of the pot.

http://home.cablelynx.com/~rhw/audio/se1.jpg

I, too ended up building a new one with better parts since I use it in the main system with my CDP. I used DACT attenuators, JPS Labs wire, Cardas connectors and a Par-Metals aluminum case.

http://home.cablelynx.com/~rhw/audio/se2.jpg

rw

Nice work E!