Power cord question

[jaxwired]

Is it ok to replace my 18 gauge 10 amp stock amplifier power cord with a new 14 guage 15 amp power cord? The new cord is not a specialty cord, just a simple black replacement cord (unshielded).

[nightflier]

Are you asking if it is going to damage your equipment?

[jaxwired]

Yes. I'm sure the answer is "of course, it's fine". Just double checking... I'm anticipating a possible improvement...

[JoeE SP9]

If nothing else, I'll bet it makes you feel better!:yesnod:

[luvtolisten]

You must mean a 16AWG 10 Amp cord (18 AWG is undersized for 10 Amps for US code)
I doubt you will hear any improvement, since there are no other factors besides wire gauge involved.

[jaxwired]

Seems to me a 50% increase in current (10 amps to 15 amps) could impact amplifier performance. And the existing cord IS an 18 AWG 10 amp cord). It's pretty darn skiinny...

Plus, it's only costing me $5 to try it out...

[JohnMichael]

My question is what brand and model of amp are you talking about? I have never seen an amp with an interchangeable power cord with that thin of a power cord. If the cord is 18 guage I do think you will hear an improvement with a larger guage cord.

[Kevio]

I'm not sure $5 is enough of an expense to hear a difference. If you ship the cable to me with another $350 I'll keep the money, send back the cable unharmed and I think you'll be much more impressed.

[luvtolisten]

Seems to me a 50% increase in current (10 amps to 15 amps) could impact amplifier performance. And the existing cord IS an 18 AWG 10 amp cord). It's pretty darn skiinny...

Plus, it's only costing me $5 to try it out...

Go for it, all you have to lose is your time. If you have an 18AWG on there now ( I haven't seen anything like that on a amp since UL (Underwriters Laboratories) became universal, either your cord is grossly undersized or you amp doesn't draw that much. I was an electronic technician for 37 years, for power cords, 18 AWG is good for 6 amps according to UL.

[luvtolisten]

I'm not sure $5 is enough of an expense to hear a difference. If you ship the cable to me with another $350 I'll keep the money, send back the cable unharmed and I think you'll be much more impressed.

I'm sure that has been done before!:)

[Feanor]

Seems to me a 50% increase in current (10 amps to 15 amps) could impact amplifier performance. And the existing cord IS an 18 AWG 10 amp cord). It's pretty darn skiinny...

Plus, it's only costing me $5 to try it out...

I doubt that the cord you're talking about will improve you amp's performance. The current draw isn't determined by the power cord, but by the internal characteristics of the amp itself. It is extremely unlikely that it draws anywhere close to 10 amps except possibly for a fraction of a second at start-up if it has a huge transformer and capacitors.

What might make an improvement is a sheilded power cord that excludes RFI/EMI. This could make a difference if you amp has or is around digital equipment.

[markw]

Seems to me a 50% increase in current (10 amps to 15 amps) could impact amplifier performance. And the existing cord IS an 18 AWG 10 amp cord). It's pretty darn skiinny...

Plus, it's only costing me $5 to try it out...That amp rating is what it can safely pass, not what it puts out. You do understand what that means, right?

[GTF]

Seems to me a 50% increase in current (10 amps to 15 amps) could impact amplifier performance. And the existing cord IS an 18 AWG 10 amp cord). It's pretty darn skiinny...

Plus, it's only costing me $5 to try it out...

A power cord doesn't increase current.
A larger wire will pass more current through it if called for.
Providing what ever it's plugged into needs the extra current.
Just remember the current coming through your wall connector,
it's not a current delivery device as some call it.
All that current up to and including as much as 30 amps passes through what is pictured here. A circuit breaker.
Notice the size of the braided and the two small contact points that can safely pass 30 amps for years on end.

[jaxwired]

I doubt that the cord you're talking about will improve you amp's performance. The current draw isn't determined by the power cord, but by the internal characteristics of the amp itself. It is extremely unlikely that it draws anywhere close to 10 amps except possibly for a fraction of a second at start-up if it has a huge transformer and capacitors.

What might make an improvement is a sheilded power cord that excludes RFI/EMI. This could make a difference if you amp has or is around digital equipment.

Good to know. So your theory is that all amps, even 10k Plinius mega Class A amps don't need more than a thin little 10 amp cord to get all the current they need. It think this also would mean that all those high price replacement power cords are snake oil...

[jaxwired]

That amp rating is what it can safely pass, not what it puts out. You do understand what that means, right?

Yes, I understand that, but if an amp wants to draw more than 10 amps of current and you have a skinny liittle power cord like my stock power cord, than the amps performance would be impacted...

[GTF]

Yes, I understand that, but if an amp wants to draw more than 10 amps of current and you have a skinny liittle power cord like my stock power cord, than the amps performance would be impacted...


The question is. Does YOUR amp draw more then 10 amps?
Do you have a pair of 10k Plinius mega Class A amps?
What amp are you using?
Why would you need some special power cable to complete the last 3' or 4'
to your amp after 40' to as much as 150' of Romex in the walls of your home or apartment?
Don't forget the little thin wire in the circuit breaker.
That should really hold up your current.
Hopefully your not like some guy on AA that keeps claiming
"your POWER delivery starts at the wall" .

[nightflier]

If you do have a pair of Plinius mega Class A amps, post a pic, will ya. 'Would love to see what they look like.

[Criticaster]

Reading the discussion here made me wonder about this issue of gauge, oxygen free copper, copper versus silver, gold plating, braiding versus straight wire, insulation and all the other factors cited by engineers and marketers (in no way to I intend to equate them except insofar as they discuss sound reproduction and wire).

I just purchased two identical multichannel amps (Fosgate) and prior to purchasing, came across this review:
http://www.iar-80.com/page77.html

I respectfully ask those with a technical bent to take look, but reading the whole review is not necessary for purposes of this discussion - opinions about the amp are not what I seek. Rather, if any of the more technical among us would look at at the part of the review where the power cord is discussed, that may be helpful to our discussion - should anyone here wish to pursue this topic besides me:

http://www.iar-80.com/page80.html

I have read all too much discussion about power cords, interconnects and speaker wire and tend to hold the opinion that after a certain point in quality, translate that in my opinion to "gauge of wire" and quality of insulation, there should not be much difference.

What has made me rethink the issue is my flirtation with the nuts and bolts in the computer world and the concept of wire and bandwidth. The very concept of bandwidth implies spectrum and transmissive capability or lack thereof. In an analog environment where there is an infinite variety besides on and off, this may raise questions. There are many technical aspects to sound reproduction that lay people (and in this domain, that is what I am) may be easily confused.

Having said that, what I find to be the case in the digital domain, is that wire is either capable of transmitting the necessary bits and bytes to create the digital words sufficient to make a sound, perform an action, whatever, or it isn't. If the digital data is successfully transferred, then the DACS or other devices as may be in a PC can do their job - in sum, like little digital switches and computers themselves, it is either on or off. It works or it doesn't.

Not necessarily so the analog world - a much more ambiguous and problematic, if also wonderful realm, making it a perfect place for hucksters, cons and $3,000.00 interconnects. When does impedance and ohms translate into the malarky of "skin effect"?

Well, for most of us this all about music (and also - movies too) and having been a musician (viola and piano) I think I am not being immodest to say I may have a better than average ear; although I haven't played in long time - I am a trained listener. Having swapped out many kinds of cables, interconnects etc, I cannot claim to have heard any substantive difference. Admittedly, I have not tried any $100.00+ plus interconnects. A few custom made interconnects by XLO and BlueJeans Cable, some XLO speaker wire and Monster interconnects, along with various Radio Shack variants of the same things are all I have had the chance to experience.

I don't subscribe to wire having major difference, but as noted, I wonder about none?
Much is available about the myths of speaker wire difference, not as much about interconnects and power cordsets.

One of the interesting things about the link posted in this missive concerning the review of the Fosgate is the apparently technical nature of the review and and qualifications of the reviewers. It also struck me as more credible that they recommended the inexpensive cordset that came with the Fosgate rather than expensive replacements. More importantly, they also noted how that particular cordset can help other solid state AB amplifiers.

Even as sensitive as my hearing may be I don't know if I can or will be able to hear the difference in such a thing as a power cord.

The point of my posting this was to get the more technical among us to weigh in on the issue.

By the way, I recently purchased two Fosgate amps - one new and one used. One came with a replacement cordset and the new one, presumably will come with the original one. I guess I will have to AB the two identical amps to see what I can determine. With no speaker selector it may be too much a chore.

The thoughts of any of you are solicited.

[JoeE SP9]

In my system different interconnects and speaker cables sound different. I have run blind tests and others have heard differences. They may be and usually are subtle but they are there and audible. My first wife could walk in the door hear my system in the den downstairs and tell if I had changed an interconnect. She had extraordinarily good hearing. She clued me in to some of the things she heard and didn't hear. She helped me become a better listener. Because my gear is better now than 25 years ago when I was married to her the differences are more audible.

Those who talk the loudest about wires and cables making no difference almost always own a receiver. The kinds of changes that I'm talking about are very subtle. Your average receiver (especially AV in 2 channel mode for music) and the speakers they are usually driving don't have the resolution to hear the subtle differences that wires and cables make. So, if you are using a receiver and don't hear the changes I'm speaking of please don't write a rude post about me and others being delusional and wasting money. I'm sorry, but your gear just isn't good enough to hear these things. Please don't complain about my "dissing" your gear. I'm not. I'm only speaking the truth.

I can't/won't speak about power cords yet. I've just purchased a couple of "high end" ones from usedcable.com and will post my findings fairly soon. Fairly soon being a month or two. Subtle changes that wires and cables produce need some time to be noticed. The DBT scheme of ten second samples with a given device doesn't work with subtle differences. In my opinion, small and or subtle differences are only discernible under long term listening. Simply connect a device, cable or whatever. Listen to it for 10 days or so. Keep informal notes of your listening observations. Change to the other "whatever" and repeat the test. If you report no differences that's OK. It means you can save some money on things that sound the same by purchasing the cheaper one. If you hear differences, well, welcome to the club. Your audio life just got a lot more complicated.

All receiver owners who disbelieve this are cordially invited to come over for a demonstration. I'll be more than happy to demonstrate the differences in cables and wires. We can listen to some music and cure the worlds ills. Please bring some beer as a gift for the host. If you don't hear a difference, so what. We'll drink some brew listen to some music and have fun. Visitors bringing any kind of light beer will be refused entrance. I may even sic my dog Electronimo on them.

[Rudy Gireyev]

Reading the discussion here made me wonder about this issue of gauge, oxygen free copper, copper versus silver, gold plating, braiding versus straight wire, insulation and all the other factors cited by engineers and marketers (in no way to I intend to equate them except insofar as they discuss sound reproduction and wire).

I just purchased two identical multichannel amps (Fosgate) and prior to purchasing, came across this review:
http://www.iar-80.com/page77.html

I respectfully ask those with a technical bent to take look, but reading the whole review is not necessary for purposes of this discussion - opinions about the amp are not what I seek. Rather, if any of the more technical among us would look at at the part of the review where the power cord is discussed, that may be helpful to our discussion - should anyone here wish to pursue this topic besides me:

http://www.iar-80.com/page80.html

I have read all too much discussion about power cords, interconnects and speaker wire and tend to hold the opinion that after a certain point in quality, translate that in my opinion to "gauge of wire" and quality of insulation, there should not be much difference.

What has made me rethink the issue is my flirtation with the nuts and bolts in the computer world and the concept of wire and bandwidth. The very concept of bandwidth implies spectrum and transmissive capability or lack thereof. In an analog environment where there is an infinite variety besides on and off, this may raise questions. There are many technical aspects to sound reproduction that lay people (and in this domain, that is what I am) may be easily confused.

Having said that, what I find to be the case in the digital domain, is that wire is either capable of transmitting the necessary bits and bytes to create the digital words sufficient to make a sound, perform an action, whatever, or it isn't. If the digital data is successfully transferred, then the DACS or other devices as may be in a PC can do their job - in sum, like little digital switches and computers themselves, it is either on or off. It works or it doesn't.

Not necessarily so the analog world - a much more ambiguous and problematic, if also wonderful realm, making it a perfect place for hucksters, cons and $3,000.00 interconnects. When does impedance and ohms translate into the malarky of "skin effect"?

Well, for most of us this all about music (and also - movies too) and having been a musician (viola and piano) I think I am not being immodest to say I may have a better than average ear; although I haven't played in long time - I am a trained listener. Having swapped out many kinds of cables, interconnects etc, I cannot claim to have heard any substantive difference. Admittedly, I have not tried any $100.00+ plus interconnects. A few custom made interconnects by XLO and BlueJeans Cable, some XLO speaker wire and Monster interconnects, along with various Radio Shack variants of the same things are all I have had the chance to experience.

I don't subscribe to wire having major difference, but as noted, I wonder about none?
Much is available about the myths of speaker wire difference, not as much about interconnects and power cordsets.

One of the interesting things about the link posted in this missive concerning the review of the Fosgate is the apparently technical nature of the review and and qualifications of the reviewers. It also struck me as more credible that they recommended the inexpensive cordset that came with the Fosgate rather than expensive replacements. More importantly, they also noted how that particular cordset can help other solid state AB amplifiers.

Even as sensitive as my hearing may be I don't know if I can or will be able to hear the difference in such a thing as a power cord.

The point of my posting this was to get the more technical among us to weigh in on the issue.

By the way, I recently purchased two Fosgate amps - one new and one used. One came with a replacement cordset and the new one, presumably will come with the original one. I guess I will have to AB the two identical amps to see what I can determine. With no speaker selector it may be too much a chore.

The thoughts of any of you are solicited.
Hi Criticaster, and welcome to the forum.

Boy will you regret bringing this issue up. :rolleyes: :frown5: :shocked: :frown2:

It has been discussed, pretty much to death by people with exposure to different cables and people without exposure to such. :confused5: Like a beast (or a virus) this issue pops up in random threads, completely takes over them and runs them to the ground. If you decide to read up on the archives on this site you'll see immediately what I mean.

In any event Joe summed it up for you nicely. The consensus appears to be:
1. You need to have gear good enough to resolve the difference.
2. You need to have cables good enough to resolve the difference, and I don't believe $100 was quite enough. Several makes and models have been recommended explicitly though.
3. You need to try it with your equipment and see if your ear is good enought oresolve the difference.

That's pretty much it.
Hopefully the sleeping dogs will continue to lie.

Rudy

[pixelthis]

A power cord doesn't increase current.
A larger wire will pass more current through it if called for.
Providing what ever it's plugged into needs the extra current.
Just remember the current coming through your wall connector,
it's not a current delivery device as some call it.
All that current up to and including as much as 30 amps passes through what is pictured here. A circuit breaker.
Notice the size of the braided and the two small contact points that can safely pass 30 amps for years on end.

Thats nothing, take a look at a 30 amp FUSE , the sacrifical piece of metal is tiny.
As for "sheilding rf" a "regular" power cord will do fine, not that you need to worry,
a power cord is the worst antenna known to man, and the power supply
will take care of what little actually gets through, if any does.
Take a look at the power cords that were used for years on some pretty fine equipment,
you might be surprized.
Heres how I power mine...:1:

[luvtolisten]

What Pixel says is true, the power supply will filter out most noise from AC in most applications, however, it does depend on the sensitivity of your equipment. The "noise" factor. Usually the most expensive equipment, which is designed to give to most minute detail of information, is also susceptible to noise as well. Not so much on the input, but the output of your amplifier. I worked as an electronic technician for a large company for over 37 years. We worked with some very sensitive equipment, some of the problems had to do with noise and 9 times out of 10 had to do with 60Hz (ac). The best way to deal with the noise problems was to use a shielded cable. The size of the cord makes little difference, as long as the device being used draws less then what the cord is rated for. A device that requires 10 amps, doesn't care if you have 15 amps out there or 150. It's like water running thru a funnel. Doesn't matter if you pour from a 1 gallon jug or a 30 gallon jug. The rate is the same.
A common mistake people make is the routing of the cables. You want to keep the AC and DC cables as far apart as possible. You never want to run them in parallel. It looks nice, but now you've added the noise factor.
So, I guess if you were looking for a good cord, and you have very sensitive equipment, I would recommend use a hospital grade cable, which is shielded and the wires twisted. The last thing you want in a hospital is the noise factor, which can drive special equipment nuts, or could mean the difference between life and death. But again unless you have very sensitive equipment, it shouldn't matter
As far as other cables being used, it depends on your equipment and it's sensitivity. The higher end stuff is more sensitive. There are many factors that go into cables. The size, the material it's made from (conductivity), the length, capacitance, inductance, shielding, how many twists per foot etc. You're not so much worried about current delivery, the noise factor will be your biggest enemy. Myself, if I did have a high end system, I would run all shielded cables. A common mistake made using shielded cables is, you should ground just one end of the cable at common point,usually at the amplifier, not at both ends of the cable. Grounding both ends creates a ground loop. The shielding's purpose is just that, to "shield" your signal from noise, (most likely 60Hz) . By grounding both ends, your now also sending noise to the device your signal is going to.
So do cables make a difference? It all depends on the equipment and application. I remember at work we had a computer in a different room running a device in another room, receiving and transmitting data. We had to order a unique able for it to work correctly, with a specific capacitance, gauge and inductance. Why wouldn't the same be true for high end Hi Fi applications?

[JoeE SP9]

From the time of my graduation with a BS EE (1970) until 1982 I was a staff Biomedical Engineer at a major teaching hospital in Philadelphia. It was there that the importance of shielding, low noise and differential (balanced) circuits was drilled into me. Hospitals are rich in RFI and it was a constant battle to keep it from interfering with a lot of sensitive equipment. Star grounding techniques and shields connected only at the end of the cable where signals originate are standard solutions for RFI.
So, when the idea that wires and cables sound different was presented to me my response was somewhat like pixelthis. However, I wasn't rude and derisive. I asked for proof and cable differences were subsequently demonstrated to me on my own system. Since than I've tried different cables and configurations and hear differences in all of them. Currently I use Kimber Silver Streak which is unshielded! My environment is relatively RFI free so I can get away with unshielded cables. I just purchased some "high end" power cords and will post my findings shortly.
I don't mind saying that the idea power cords can make a difference was at first, to me, as improbable as interconnects sounding different was in the past. I've learned over the the years to close my mouth and investigate instead of saying things I'm sorry for later. So, I'm investigating and will find out for myself.

[Criticaster]

First - JoeE SP9 - sorry for bringing up something already well discussed - apologize for typical newbie mistake - the world did not just get created with my membership in the forum.

I do appreciate the comments made by all. There seems to be a possible distinction made between the power cordsets and interconnects with more credibility being given to interconnects having an effect on sound that power cordsets.

As noted, I am going to have the unique ability to test having two cordsets for an amp where one particular cordset was represented to make a huge difference in the sound. I will be happy to report the results in a few weeks. I am waiting for the delivery of my speakers (B&W Matrix 804s). I believe they are sensitive enough to reflect the difference the two power cordsets may impart.

I remain pleasantly sketical about the power cordsets in particular and interconnects and speaker wire - however, having been alerted to the fact that this was well discussed before and not wishing to the cause of this thread being taken over I am happy to move on to other issues.

JoeE SP9- any suggestions where the results should be posted in few weeks?

[Rudy Gireyev]

First - JoeE SP9 - sorry for bringing up something already well discussed - apologize for typical newbie mistake - the world did not just get created with my membership in the forum.

I do appreciate the comments made by all. There seems to be a possible distinction made between the power cordsets and interconnects with more credibility being given to interconnects having an effect on sound that power cordsets.

As noted, I am going to have the unique ability to test having two cordsets for an amp where one particular cordset was represented to make a huge difference in the sound. I will be happy to report the results in a few weeks. I am waiting for the delivery of my speakers (B&W Matrix 804s). I believe they are sensitive enough to reflect the difference the two power cordsets may impart.

I remain pleasantly sketical about the power cordsets in particular and interconnects and speaker wire - however, having been alerted to the fact that this was well discussed before and not wishing to the cause of this thread being taken over I am happy to move on to other issues.

JoeE SP9- any suggestions where the results should be posted in few weeks?
I hope Joe doesn't mind if I jump in here and provide a link for you to the Cables forum on this very site:
http://forums.audioreview.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35

I'm very much looking forward to reading your review as well as learning more about the system they will be used on.

Rudy

[E-Stat]

I have read all too much discussion about power cords, interconnects and speaker wire and tend to hold the opinion that after a certain point in quality, translate that in my opinion to "gauge of wire" and quality of insulation, there should not be much difference.
Too many folks focus solely on resistance which is not the only factor. For speaker cables inductance make a bigger difference. Guys like Roger Russell completely ignore the interaction of the cable with the speaker's crossover network and the amplifier driving the load. They look at the cable in a vacuum and merely calculate resistance loss tables. Smarter guys understand that cables play an active part of a system. Here (http://www.audiodesignline.com/howto/201805860;jsessionid=Y1F3WE0NBRO11QE1GHPCKH4ATMY32 JVN?pgno=2) is a interesting article that speaks to this issue. Also read part 5 which is linked at the end. Gene Czerwinski (of Cerwin-Vega fame) was quite surprised at the results of real world tests. Also, when you use electrostatic speakers as I do (which appear as a giant capacitor), capacitance also becomes important from the amplifier's perspective. For ICs, capacitance has a greater impact. Especially if you choose to bypass using an active preamp like I do with my CD source. Low dielectric constant cabling is more expensive.


If the digital data is successfully transferred, then the DACS or other devices as may be in a PC can do their job - in sum, like little digital switches and computers themselves, it is either on or off. It works or it doesn't.
Once again, folks focus on the wrong issue. The core issue with digital is timing. Yes, the march of bits may be there, but if shifted in time, you lose focus and resolution. That's also the nature of jitter. All the data gets there, just not at the right time.


Even as sensitive as my hearing may be I don't know if I can or will be able to hear the difference in such a thing as a power cord.
Even amplifiers with huge power supplies can benefit from the RF filtering and shielding afforded by some power cords. The only issue I have with the IAR report is that it seems to assume that ALL aftermarket power cords are created equally. They are not and cost is certainly not the determining factor in their performance. I was skeptical myself at first until I spent considerable time borrowing a friend's cords. You really must audition any cable in your own system before choosing to buy. The differences are subtle and they lie at the micro end of the dynamic scale. If all you do is listen to AC-DC at ear bleeding levels, then you will never hear the benefits. It is for music with low level passages where the noise reduction is evident as added detail. You hear more "rosin" of a string. Unique aspects of a singer's vocalizations. A clearer sustain of a piano chord. Longer decay of a bell tree and softer upper harmonics.

I would not recommend *audio cowboy* style quick A-B switching either. Listen for extended periods of time with a range of musical content. Then switch. Listen again for a while before switching back. Good luck!

rw

[JoeE SP9]

First - JoeE SP9 - sorry for bringing up something already well discussed - apologize for typical newbie mistake - the world did not just get created with my membership in the forum.

I do appreciate the comments made by all. There seems to be a possible distinction made between the power cordsets and interconnects with more credibility being given to interconnects having an effect on sound that power cordsets.

As noted, I am going to have the unique ability to test having two cordsets for an amp where one particular cordset was represented to make a huge difference in the sound. I will be happy to report the results in a few weeks. I am waiting for the delivery of my speakers (B&W Matrix 804s). I believe they are sensitive enough to reflect the difference the two power cordsets may impart.

I remain pleasantly sketical about the power cordsets in particular and interconnects and speaker wire - however, having been alerted to the fact that this was well discussed before and not wishing to the cause of this thread being taken over I am happy to move on to other issues.

JoeE SP9- any suggestions where the results should be posted in few weeks?

Your approach to this question is the only way to determine if there is a difference. If you hear one there is. E-Stat has mentioned that using ten second music samples is not revealing. I believe this to be so. Insert a power cord, speaker cable or interconnect and leave it in for a few days. Keep informal notes with your impressions. Swap the cable wire or whatever. Repeat the listening and note taking. Compare your notes and then decide.
There are two very different camps as you have noticed. Usually those who say there is no difference never bother to listen for themselves.

[pixelthis]

Your approach to this question is the only way to determine if there is a difference. If you hear one there is. E-Stat has mentioned that using ten second music samples is not revealing. I believe this to be so. Insert a power cord, speaker cable or interconnect and leave it in for a few days. Keep informal notes with your impressions. Swap the cable wire or whatever. Repeat the listening and note taking. Compare your notes and then decide.
There are two very different camps as you have noticed. Usually those who say there is no difference never bother to listen for themselves.

if you think there is a "difference" fine, but I assure you its more between
your ears than outside of them.
You may entertain the notion that you're ears can pick up delicate bits that escape
measuring equipment, but those "differences" are more imagination than anything
else.
I would have more respect for the "cable" crowd if they would admit the real
reason they buy these cables...
THEY LOOK COOL.
Which is fine, their is an entire industry built around customizing cars for the same reason.:1:

[JoeE SP9]

I truly wish you would stop telling others what they can and can't hear. I have an open invite to anyone in my area to listen to different cables on my system. I have been able to demonstrate differences in IC's and speaker cables to other audiophiles and casual listeners. As far as power cords go, I have already stated that I just purchased (bought used at considerable savings) a couple and I am in the process of listening to them. I don't want to hear differences in them. I didn't want to hear differences in IC's years ago but I did. The Kimber Silver Streak IC's I use hardly qualify in the "cool" category. Nevertheless, I use them because they sound better.

If your gear, room and ears are such that you can't hear differences that's on you. On my system in my room the differences between IC's and speakers cables are audible.

More than one person has already said that the average receiver doesn't have enough resolution to enable subtle differences to be heard. If you rely on said receiver for your critical listening I suggest that's why you don't hear any differences.

If anyone is curious you should find out for yourself. I would have more respect for detractors if they actually listened for themselves instead of ridiculing anything they don't believe in.

Most of the car customizing I'm familiar with revolves around improving performance not cosmetics. This would include increasing horsepower and improving suspension components. These changes are not cosmetically inspired. Are you now going to tell me increasing horsepower is cosmetic?

[Rudy Gireyev]

So how many people know what "trolling" means?

Rudy

[E-Stat]

I truly wish you would stop telling others what they can and can't hear.
The non-experiential theorists have been here for years. I remain amazed at how much ink they spill over that which they believe has no benefit. Naturally, their exposure to said is totally absent. I went back through a couple of the more amusing exchanges I've had over the years. Here (http://forums.audioreview.com/showthread.php?p=10136&highlight=cord#post10136) is one of them. They just don't get it. And never will since their only analytical vehicle is speculation. They assume the wrong causation, then build and burn their straw men. Here (http://members.fortunecity.com/flzapped/power.html)is a link called "The Truth About Esoteric Cords". The author completely ignores that the villains lie within your home, usually inches or feet away from the cord itself.


rw

[joidiamonds]

I bought this amp and hooked it up in place of my old amp and really like it, but blew the fuse by the battery about 2 days after I installed it. I now read and realize that I am supposed to use a 200 Amp fuse mine was 80, and I replaced it with a 60 and so now I am looking to replace my current fuse with a new 200 Amp fuse. Then, I also realized that I am running 4 gauge power wire and ground wire to the amp, and am supposed to use 1/0 gauge wire..

Is this a really big deal and should I not listen to music until I replace the wire? or should I even worry about changing the wire and only change the fuse?
by the way ...

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[hifitommy]

in post #19

and great approach as well. i also wonder about the power wires but most of my components have captive wires. the comparison will have to wait for me to upgrade. but i am looking forward to yours.

btw, how do you like your marcof pp1 ?

[hifitommy]

Here (http://forums.audioreview.com/showthread.php?p=10136&highlight=cord#post10136) . i guess some of these guys are trying to take his place with the insults and attempts at bullying. i can see why you gave up moderating.

those five year old posts took me back to the old days when i had to herd the chihuahuas away from the door so they wouldnt nip at the heels of anyone who tried to discuss cables or differences in electronics

i guess pixi wants to be mtry when he grows up. well, lets go buy some shock collars.

[pixelthis]

Here (http://forums.audioreview.com/showthread.php?p=10136&highlight=cord#post10136) . i guess some of these guys are trying to take his place with the insults and attempts at bullying. i can see why you gave up moderating.

those five year old posts took me back to the old days when i had to herd the chihuahuas away from the door so they wouldnt nip at the heels of anyone who tried to discuss cables or differences in electronics

i guess pixi wants to be mtry when he grows up. well, lets go buy some shock collars.

I guess pointing out facts and reality are considered "bullying" to you.
You claim I am insulting you when its you who are insulting me by calling me a "bully".
Well, I apologise if the facts hurt your feelings, snuggle up to your pet rock for comfort, okay?:1:

[mlsstl]

joidiamonds wrote:
I bought this amp and hooked it up in place of my old amp and really like it, but blew the fuse by the battery about 2 days after I installed it. I now read and realize that I am supposed to use a 200 Amp fuse mine was 80, and I replaced it with a 60 and so now I am looking to replace my current fuse with a new 200 Amp fuse.

Would you provide a bit more information? This doesn't make much sense.

200 amp service is normally the value one sees in a circuit breaker box that provides electricity for an entire house (air conditioner, oven, fridge, lights, in other words, everything.)

What amplifier are you speaking of that needs a 200 amp fuse? And what is the battery business all about? Even at 12 volts (car battery), 200 amps translates to 2,400 watts. (edit corrected math error)

Something is not right with this picture.

[JoeE SP9]

in post #19

and great approach as well. i also wonder about the power wires but most of my components have captive wires. the comparison will have to wait for me to upgrade. but i am looking forward to yours.

btw, how do you like your marcof pp1 ?

I'm currently giving them a shot one at a time on one of my "used to be" Haflers. The Marcof just had new batteries installed. It's just as quiet as always.

[hifitommy]

do you even know the definition of the word FACTS. i think NOT. sell your receiver and buy a dictionary.

[E-Stat]

Something is not right with this picture.
A missed attempt at humor.

rw

[E-Stat]

do you even know the definition of the word FACTS. i think NOT. sell your receiver and buy a dictionary.

"...a power cord, no matter how exotic or expensive will not do anything for you (other than lightening your wallet)."

The *facts* as surmised by a tv repairman devoid of actual experience. :)

rw

[mlsstl]

E-Stat wrote: "A missed attempt at humor."
Ah, the old nom de plume ploy.

Actually given what I've seen around here, the question did not look particularly unusual... ;-)

[JoeE SP9]

Would you provide a bit more information? This doesn't make much sense.

200 amp service is normally the value one sees in a circuit breaker box that provides electricity for an entire house (air conditioner, oven, fridge, lights, in other words, everything.)

What amplifier are you speaking of that needs a 200 amp fuse? And what is the battery business all about? Even at 12 volts (car battery), 200 amps translates to 2,400 watts. (edit corrected math error)

Something is not right with this picture.
I think he may be speaking of a "car stereo" amplifier. They have ratings that are just impossible.
A 12 Volt car system (battery and alternator) may be able to produce 60 Amps. I'm being very generous with that Amperage figure. According to Ohms law that's 720 Watts of power an automobile electrical system can supply. Simple logic says you can't get more power out than you put in. So, assuming you have an amp that is 75% efficient (NOT, most are 30% to 40%) that means 540 Watts is the maximum it or any other amp can produce.
I am aware of 2 Farad and larger capacitors for cars. Most car stereos don't have them. When a car has one or more they can help an amp produce a lot of peak power. Of course that presumes the amp can handle enormous amounts of current.
What I find puzzling is that when confronted with the facts according to Ohms Law car stereo enthusiasts refuse to believe the truth.