I finally solved the problem with the DQ-10 [Archive] - Audio & Video Forums

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emaidel
02-23-2009, 05:42 AM
Just briefly, in case one hasn't read my previous posts, I heard annoying distortion coming from one of my DQ-10's, and believed incorrectly that it was coming from the mid bass driver. I replaced both drivers in each speaker, so as not to have an imbalance, with far superior Dayton Audio drivers, but still had the problem. After careful listening, with the grille off the speaker, it was clear that the crackling/distortion was coming from the woofer. Then, it was either send the woofer off to Regnar in NY for a rebuild for $175, or purchase a new (or perhaps two new) woofers from Simply Speakers in Florida for $129 each.

I did neither, and noticed recently that the problem had lessened some, and in certain instances wasn't even there. That made no sense whatsoever, as a blown woofer is either blown, or it isn't - there isn't any "in between." Since I had not soldered the leads onto the new upper bass drivers, and just crimped them in place (my DQ-10's predated the use of clip-on connectors), I decided to do that yesterday. Remembering a conversation I had with Regnar's service manager, Joe, about the two large resistors in the upper right corner of the crossover circuit board being critical to the operation of the woofer, I decided to touch them to see if they were crumbling, or anything like that, though I truly didn't believe they would be. To my complete astonishment, I noticed that one of the two had become disconnected! It connects to two other leads from two other crossoer components, and the solder connection simply came loose and needed to be reattached. And that did it! No more crackling, or any problems whatsoever from the speaker!

So, I wound up inadvertently "updating" my speakers with new upper bass drivers, though I have to admit the difference is very small. Most importantly, I don't have to buy a new woofer, or have the existing one rebuilt.

Despite having had the woofers rebuilt about 3 o 4 years ago, and adding the different upper bass drivers, the only really noticeable upgrade I've performed on the DQ-10's was the installation of two "Hi-Fi Tuning Fuses" a few months back. One is the main/power fuse, and the other is directly in line with the tweeters. I've said this before, and I'll say it again: $40 for a fuse seems outrageous, but $80 for a noticeable upgrade on a pair of DQ-10's is peanuts, and well worth anyone's time and expense. Based on my admittedly limited experience, I'd have to heartily recommend the use of these fuses in any loudspeaker with a fuse in it.

Feanor
02-23-2009, 06:11 AM
I'm glad to hear you've tracted down the real problem. I'm glad too that the mid-range swap worked out well despite not being the underlying problem.

I also agree that the Hi-fi Tuning fuses are worth a try. I'm using them for my Magneplanar 1.6 tweeters believe I hear a subtle improvement, perhaps not as large as in you case, but definitely up there with interconnect improvements. At $60 per pair these fuse aren't cheap, but are cheaper than expensive interconnects.

Kevio
02-23-2009, 06:56 AM
Congratulations on the fix. If a woofer is still putting out sound but seems to sound bad and you suspect you may have cooked the voice coil, a simple test is to push the cone in and out with your hand. If it moves smoothly and quietly, it is probably good. If it feels scratchy or impinged or feels significantly different than the working channel, it is probably fried.

Does anyone know whether these upgraded fuses still provide protection for the drivers/speakers.

Feanor
02-23-2009, 07:46 AM
...
Does anyone know whether these upgraded fuses still provide protection for the drivers/speakers.

Yes, they provide standard, fast or slow-blow protection according to their specifications.

I got mine from Parts ConneXion; click the Hifi Tuning Silver Fuses tab (http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/ac_products.html) at the bottom of the screen.

emaidel
02-23-2009, 09:24 AM
[QUOTE=Kevio]Congratulations on the fix. If a woofer is still putting out sound but seems to sound bad and you suspect you may have cooked the voice coil, a simple test is to push the cone in and out with your hand. If it moves smoothly and quietly, it is probably good. If it feels scratchy or impinged or feels significantly different than the working channel, it is probably fried.

QUOTE]

Actually, I tried that, and didn't get any of the scratchy effects I expected to. Still, until I only noticed the disconnected resistor yesterday, the crackling/distortion was very much present. It was quite a mystery, but fortunately, is finally solved.