Best Speakers for Vinyl

[JeffreyStewart]

Hello, Im new to the forum but I'm trying to build a home theater based around a turntable to play some original pressed vinyl. I'm looking for some good speakers that will capture the best sound from the vinyl I'll be playing. I'm not sure which speakers I should go with, but the music that will be playing is ska, rocksteady, dub and reggae. Also, I plan on getting some origina John Coltrane and some David Brubeck. I need some speakers that will capture the depth and texture of these albums. Any direction or help is appreciated.

Jeff

[Feanor]

Hello, Im new to the forum but I'm trying to build a home theater based around a turntable to play some original pressed vinyl. I'm looking for some good speakers that will capture the best sound from the vinyl I'll be playing. I'm not sure which speakers I should go with, but the music that will be playing is ska, rocksteady, dub and reggae. Also, I plan on getting some origina John Coltrane and some David Brubeck. I need some speakers that will capture the depth and texture of these albums. Any direction or help is appreciated.

Jeff

Welcome to AR Forums. Lots of good comments await you.

As for which speakers are best for vinyl, I have just two words: "Audio Note (http://www.audionote.co.uk/products/speakers/spkr_home_01.shtml)".

http://ca.geocities.com/w_d_bailey/laughing0251.gif

Oh sorry: that's an insider joke; hang around long enough and you'll appreciated it. Seriously though, they are an option.

Alternatiely I'd suggest some Magneplan (http://www.magnepan.com/) model. Lots of other options too.

[Worf101]

Some information from you would be helpfull.

1. Budget.
2. Amps and other gear to be used, turntable, etc..
3. Size and orientation of listening area.

With this information some here could better give you the assisstence you seek.

Da Worfster

[GMichael]

Hi Jeffrey,

There are so many different (good) speakers available, that no one can really tell you what is the "best" speaker for you. Give us a budget and we can give you a few dozen leads. Then your best bet would be to get out and listen to as many of them as you can before you choose any. Bring a couple of your favorite recordings with you.

These are the speakers I have & can't say enough about them (see below for link). The planner mids and highs bring out the details of voices while the traditional mid-woofer and sub woofer dish out some nice dynamics. If you go to this company's forum and post that you are looking to hear a pair, someone in you area will step up and let you come over to listen. They also have a 30 day return policy if you find that you don't like how they sound in your home.

http://av123.com/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,34/category_id,18/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,37/

Welcome to AR.

Mike

[dean_martin]

don't know your budget, but you probably need to decide whether you're going to go with floorstanders or standmounts and a subwoofer. generally, if you go with standmounts, you may need a better quality sub to integrate for music only. If you go with floorstanders, you may be able to get by with a cheaper sub (or no sub initially) for movies. speakers that handle the bass response you need for some of the music you identified may turn out to be your priority.

some of the usual suspects to audition are B&W, Revel, Vandersteen, Paradigm, Monitor Audio and Dynaudio found in hifi shops. I auditioned some floorstanders the other day - B&W 683s, Revel Concerta and Vandersteen 1C in the $1000-1500 for my stereo system and I play vinyl mostly. I thought the Revels were interesting becasue they seemed to be well-balanced overall. The B&Ws were more exciting but I suspect they might become irritating for extended listening to music only. The Vandersteens might be a good choice for vinyl because they seemed to have some of the characteristics of vinyl - warmth but with detail. I'd go back and listen to the Vandys and Revels again (with my own music) before deciding.

provide a little more info like your budget and the amp or receiver you'll be using for more specific comments.

[limonv]

Hello, i just joined audioreview today. The thing is, i recently got as a gift a stanton t.92 direct drive turntable and i want to get a nice set of speakers to listen to my vinyl´s collection. I dont own a receiver or amp and i dont know which way to start building up my sound equipment.
Should i buy the receiver and the speakers? should i go only for the speakers? do i need an amp/preamp? can a receiver also be an amp?
I´m willing to spend between 300-500 on speakers and another 300 (should i spend more on receiver less on speakers??) for a receiver/amp. I´ve been wandering on amazon and ebay and have found good (at least i think so) deals for receivers like HK 3390 High Performance 2 x 80W Stereo Receiver 270, and a couple of ONKYO´s between 200-300.

Like i said, i am new at this and any help could really be useful.

Thanks!!

[Mash]

http://www.magnepan.com/model_MMG for $599/pair. These will probably stay with you for a long time. Add an amplifier & have at it.

Mackie HR824Mk2 at about $650 each but they have amplifiers built in. Add two ART Tube MP Studios for $30 each for volume & connecting to sources, plus 2 20' XLR cables $10 each if you shop it.........

These are not beginner level items but you can live with them a long time.

[jiaojiao]

:23:

hahahahahahaha

[RGA]

Seriously guys - Ska - rocksteady - Dub - and Magnepan go together like Palin and Obama in a triple X movie - the mere thought makes them both and the rest of the planet retch.

Without knowing a budget it's tough to say.

I have suggestions of different speakers depending on the budgets under $1k - $1k-$2k, and up.

Questions:

1. budget
2. room size shape
3. how bog can the speakers be
4) how loud do you like them to go
5. what is the amp/turntable
6. can the speakers be placed in corners or near wall
7.Do you think you might like to buy a tube amplifier in the future - if your answer is yes or maybe - then it matters.

[nad_obed]

IMHO, you should rather be looking for the best speakers towards your music type inclination (rock, acoustics, vocals, etc) rather than the vinyl paltform.

[madarahr]

I am new to this but an enthusiast. I purchased a Technics turntable to start listening to vinyl. My taste is varied but I would be listening to classical, jaz, acoustic guitars, discos. The house I purchased recently has in wall speakers which are Niles. I would like to replace them with something much nicer around 1000 to 3000 dollar range. The room is small yet I want something with a punch yet warm for extended listening. An suggestions would be a good start of my research.

[Mash]

This is hogwash.

A loudspeaker is accurate, or it is not. Any characteristic such as "warm" is an inaccuracy and therefor should be avoided.

"I would like to replace them with something much nicer around 1000 to 3000 dollar range."

Per pair, I presume, or $500 to $1500 each................ But what about amplifiers and all those other fun items?

Anyway, look here:

Mackie HR824Mk2 at $680 each, or $1360 a pair. These include amplifiers and are servo-feedback controlled (like a Velodyne servosub). These accept RCA pinplug interconnects, cannon interconnects, and balanced XLR interconnects. These arre very accurate as they are recording studio monitors. You should be able to add a Velodyne SPL-1500R 15" powered sub for $1000 but the Mackies will go down to a clean 40 Hz..

Note that the unbalanced RCA pinplug and cannon interconnects will have an absolute length limit of about 25 feet while balanced XLR interconnects can be ANY length.

Want to spend a little more? These should fit in your room:

Magnepan MMG speakers... $625 a pair direct from Magnepan (These are intended to pull you into the Magnepan World but they are still really excellent for the money.)

Then add a suitable amplifier:
Jolida 302b, about $750.

Total is $1375.

That leaves you about $1525, and you should be able to add a Velodyne SPL-1500R 15" powered sub for $1000.

Either sepup will be far, far better than "much nicer".

[madarahr]

The second option is something really interesting. However after reading a few reviews on the MMG's it seems like they can't be mounted in the wall (to replace the ones that I have) and I have a small room only that it is open to the house (some review mention that it preferably be a closed small room). If I have to place these speakers on the floor, there hardly is room for these let alone any speakers. I am still thinking about ways to re arrange the furniture to accommodate these but seems impossible.

[Mash]

A. The Mackies have a compensation switch which you set for position:
1. In a corner (against both walls);
2. Against one wall, i.e. not in a corner;
3. Away from walls and corners.
Then mount them to the wall, about 4 to 5 feet off of the floor, using the threaded insert on the bottom.
There are also other adjustment switches.
Visit Mackie.

B. Magnepan has another speaker that IS mounted TO the wall. You unfold it out "into" the room for listening and fold it back when you are not using it. Visit Magnepan for details.

Speakers mounted INTO a wall are always problematic because you must first install them to listen to them. Then what happens if the selected position sounds bad? Oops. Your selection is limited, and this type of loudspeaker is intended for people who value discreet decor more than sound quality.

If your room is too tiny for any loudspeaker really worth messing with, use headphones. Stax has/had some great electrostatic 'phones. I have two sets with a tube driver. There is/was an American company that had a great electrostatic headphone, and the name Shure comes to my mind. Grado had some pretty good dynamic 'phones.

[madarahr]

Thanks Mash. I will have to explore placing the Magnepans. One more thing I read about the JD-302 is that they don't have a phono connector. Also with the vinyl player I would need a pre-amp. Any suggestions ?

[Mash]

and if you want to try the MMG.... some people have mounted them to the ceiling. The holes for the "feet" are toward the bottom of the frame but you could hang them upside down because they are symmetric about their horizontal center. And tilt the "bottom" (the speaker's top) back away from you.

Vinyl player? What is that? I have heard rumors that people once "spun" 12" diameter thin black discs on rotating platters to listen to music.... can you believe that?

Very few units offer phono preamps today, so you probably will have to get a seperate unit. This has sparked a cottage indu$try. You will want to look around carefully if you care about the health of your wallet.

I bought a three year old Conrad-Johnson PV10B (B has phono preamp) from Gene Rubin on ebay Nov 2006. It is quite nice. I also have a Davis-Brinton phono preamp in another system. It is excellent and it is used with a passive control center/ ES Headphone tube unit in another system.

[eisforelectronic]

I have a Rega Brio-R integrated amp. Built in MM phono stage on input 1 and 50 wpc. Runs my floor standers great and sounds like a lot more power. I would start with this and then get a nice set of speakers to fit your budget.

[madarahr]

I am thinking of the JoLida JD 9A or the Yaqin SM12B for a preamp.The JD's cost about $450.

[Mash]

The JD9A looks like a great choice. The 12AX7 tube is a dual channel durable workhorse. They last a long time and are plentiful. Look for some Eurorean or Russian (Soviet) tubes because JoLida may be using Chinese tubes. I replaced the Chinese tubes in my JoLida 302B and that was a real improvement.

My translations for info on the Yaqin SM12B were faulty so I have no opinion. I do wonder how you would ever get parts or service if there is a language problem.

[madarahr]

Well I ended up with Jd 9 for a pre-amp and ordered a jd 502 over the phone. The sales man talked me into this and mentioned that since I have a phono pre-amp I would just require a jd 502P a straight power amp. The unit arrived yesterday and there are no controls for volume etc. I live very remote and shipping costs are outrageous even if I have to return or trade the unit for something which has controllers. Is there something I can do at this point ?

[Mash]

Are you (basically) describing a miscomunication?

1 A phono preamp (usually) does not have volume controls, balance, etc. and connects the cart to the "preamp" (2)
2 A preamp has volume controls, etc. and may or may not (these days) have a phono preamp built in
3 An integrated amp also has a preamp (see 2)
4 A power amp is only that- no volume, etc.

So- do you have 1 and 4 ?

And you needed 1 and 3 ?

Would the seller make a correction in your favor (since it sounds like you wanted 1 and 3 and he may have pushed you to 1 and 4 ?

[madarahr]

The salesman admitted that there was a miscommunication. They will be shipping a Jd 5T for a very nominal price to rectify the issue. I would then have the jd502p, jd 5T and the jd9A. This seems like a better route in the end. Awaiting the Maggies MMG's.

[Mash]

Your problem is solved, and you can use MM or MC carts.

So you got a break on the $425 Jd 5T...........

Those MMG's should sing.

Now look for a 15" servo-sub ..... There may be some good 12" servo subs..... (a non-servo-sub will not blend so well & servo subs come with amps).

Cross-over at 80 Hz.

[JoeE SP9]

Most subs are not servo subs. However, most subs are powered. Servo subs tend to cost more than a regular powered sub. The associated circuitry required for servo operation always increases the cost.

The Titanic Series from Parts Express come in three sizes (10", 12" and 15"), are reasonably priced and perform extremely well for the money. However, they are not servo subs.

Parts Express also has a slightly less expensive line of sub woofers. They are the reference series. They are also good value for the money.

[madarahr]

Yes I paid $100 and no shipping for the jd5T. I would shop with usatubeaudio anytime.


Your problem is solved, and you can use MM or MC carts.

So you got a break on the $425 Jd 5T...........
.

[Mash]

Let's Hear a round of applause for usatubeaudio for correcting madarahr's problem. Well done!

I agree with you, JoeE SP9, that servosubs cost more than non-servosubs, but I have also learned that a good servosub will usually blend with Magnepan speakers, while non-servosubs will not- they simply sound "slow" or "sluggish" in direct comparison with a Maggie in the region of the crossover frequency. The latter combination ultimately becomes annoying and you wind up doing what you should have done the first time.

A fun test with a servosub: with power "off" at the servosub and NO input signal, tap the cone lightly with your finger as you turn power to the servosub "on". Notice the apparent rise of pitch as the cone's apparent frequency approaches the servo circuit's operating (correction update) frequency. Every time your finger slightly moves the cone from its centered "rest position", the servo circuit slams it back to "where it is supposed to be".

This is why the servo feedback Mackie HR824 speaker series sound so clear.

[JoeE SP9]

It's been my experience that a lot of the integration problems with sub woofers and Magneplanars is because of too high a crossover frequency. Any setting higher than ~50hz for the low pass to the sub interferes with the sound.

Using the line level connections on most sub woofers means a full range signal goes to the main amp and speakers because there is no high pass filtering with most powered subs. This causes a frequency overlap when the main speakers have any kind of bass response. This is especially obvious with Magneplanars because their sound is so clean and resonant free.

I have heard some very good sounding Maggy/sub woofer systems that didn't have servo control. They were using the low pass set to 50Hz or lower.

I should add; I use non servo subs with ESL's which are even faster than Magneplanars. Choosing the proper crossover frequency and levels make the difference. I am using an electronic crossover with high and low pass filtering. I use 80Hz and the sound is seamless.

[Mash]

I use 50 Hz for my Velodyne with my Tympani because the Tympani go below 40 Hz so all is well. The Velodyne servo-15 has an internal crossover and I had Velodyne supply me with the crossover set at 50 Hz. A DeCoursey splits the music at 100 Hz and the below-100 hz signal is sent to the bass Magnepan panels & Velodyne.

BUT! The lower limit of the MMG is 50 Hz and when a panel speaker hits its lower frequency limit, the material below that limit is simply not there. So 50 Hz will not work well with MMG's. You get a hole. 80 Hz is excellent with MMG's.

Another consideration is the space between the mains and at what lower frequency do cancellation effects begin.

ESL's are faster than Magnepans? I care not. My criteria was the realism of the sound. ESL's could never deliver that. The detail was outstanding but the realism was not.

[thedj]

I use KRK for studio sound. Love them!

[madarahr]

I am really enjoying the music from the system now with the MMG's. It is not as clear as I heard at the auditioning at the dealer with the 1.6 and 1.7's but he mentioned it old take time. The dealer does not carry MMG's and hence had to get them from the manufacturer. The speaker placement issue is no longer an issue. I re-arranged furniture and threw the TV out to another room. We watch TV very rarely anyway (once in two weeks). I followed the recommendations in the manual and the dealer for placement and it fit so perfect and the music is so clear. They are really meant for small rooms and that's why they are working fine for me.
I am a bit worried about the subwoofer you mentioned Mash. Dont you think it's too big for the small room I have have ? Would the subwoofer make the MMG's perform better by taking the strain away and letting it work on its higher frequencies ?

[JoeE SP9]

Seeing as how I went from owning Maggy 1's, 2's and 3's to ESL's I guess I don't agree with Mash about the realism of ESL's.

My mentioning 50Hz as a crossover was mostly to illustrate that many people use way to high a crossover setting on powered subs. With most of them having no high pass filtering on the line level connections proper woofer integration becomes difficult. It's probably easier with MMG's because of their limited low frequency extension.

Unless the sub woofer has some high pass filtering it won't take any work away from the MMG's. A full range signal is still going to the MMG's. It will however fill in the missing bass that MMG's can't produce anyway.

[ArKay QAtech]

Just a thought. Think about the age of the Vinyl/Music and then think - - - What was used as a monitor to mix/master the recording? Hint .... British or American. Either one. Some of the best speakers I've heard are from the seventys. You may need them refoamed ( surrounds ) and you might use up some $ but ...

[JoeE SP9]

The art of speaker design and manufacture has improved over what was available in the 70's. Of course you must spend some money to reap the benefits. Even CV now makes some speakers that sound good and not just loud.

The best of 70's speakers is generally not as good as the best of current designs.

[Mash]

The MMG is never carried by a Magnepan dealer as far as I know...... it is a "factory introductory" speaker INTENDED to draw you into the Magnepan world and you (usually) order the MMG's directly from the Magnepan site. Still, it is a fine speaker and a bargain at about $625.

However I still feel that a tube amp is best for Magnepan speakers because I found that the "sound" of a Magnepan speaker will vary, and often disagreeably, with a solid state amp.

[ I only use tube gear with Maggies so I am not interested in any arguments. You pay your money & you make your choice.]

So... w/r/t your comments:

1. It is not as clear as I heard at the auditioning at the dealer with the 1.6 and 1.7's ........

A. I do not believe the nonsense about "breaking in". But first I suggest that you CAREFULLY check the bias on your tube gear. Use a GOOD DMM (I use autoranging units, which means I must carefully check what units are displayed, i.e. mV (milivolts, or .001 Volt) versus Volts, or whatever. Read the adjustment instructions carefully, and then measure what bias is set in your units. Overly high bias can soften the sound & shorten tube life.

B. Then too Russian, Telefunken, etc. tubes will probably be clearer than the original Chinese tubes.

C. The MMG should be pretty clear if you do not overdrive them. The 1.7 should offer more frequency extension and louder sound without distortion, i.e. for use in larger rooms.

D. Also an overly bright (live) room can reduce clarity because of reflections and room modes.. There are companies that sell reasonably-priced wall-mountable sound control panels finished if a wide array of attractive fabrics. Clap your hands sharply and listen for any echoes (slap echo) as you move about the room.

2. I am a bit worried about the subwoofer you mentioned Mash.

2.A Dont you think it's too big for the small room I have have ?

... Start with the volume *very low* and "turn it up" SLOWLY until you can *just barely notice* the sub. Use that level as your starting point. Or wait until you move into a place with a larger listening room.

2.B Would the subwoofer make the MMG's perform better by taking the strain away and letting it work on its higher frequencies ?

... The only reason for a sub is to produce the lower frequencies CLEARLY that the MMG cannot manage. The crossover must be sufficiently above the lower freq limit fo the MMG's for a smooth transition blend.

... A (quality) servo-sub will be clearer than non-servo subs. And you will be forever comparing the subs clarity with the MMG's clarity. If you hear that the sub is less clear that the MMG's it will bug you. This is the problem with ESL that have a non-servo cone woofer: There is a noticable difference in clarity.

.... Think about this: With a servo-sub the sub's designer NOT ONLY knows what amp you are using with the sub he designed, but the cone motion of the sub is continuously being corrected back to match the input signal.

[Mash]

You are comparing one speaker to another to upgrade to (or retain) the best that you can afford. If this pleases you, then fine. But you are pursuing a holy grail that you will never reach. Are the new speakers better, or only just as good but different?

There are other fun things to do in life. So, I do not do this.

My goal was to build a system that matches what I hear in the concert hall. I had this result when my final #1 system was in a perfect room (*very* large with 20 ft ceiling.... and solid-as-hell construction.) Other rooms fell short to different degrees, but if the room is impeding one's efforts to obtain the best or most accurate sound, even ever so slightly, then why go on a continuous search for the ever-more-perfect new speaker?

My approach was intended to do the job once and be done. If the sound matches the live music I hear, why worry further.

One can spend a lot of money on the high-end merry-go-round. I preferred to be able to retire while relatively young and in an excellent financial position. But although I still spent some real money, I added to my knowlege of EE along the way which opened more doors providing a career benefit with the company.

Mine is not an audio-purist approach, but then what really is?

[madarahr]

Every component is tube based and I biased the amp following the instructions in the manual. It has Russian valves. As I mentioned earlier, I did not play much at all with the positioning of the speakers other than follow the instructions and within the limitations I have. It is clearly accurate than anything I previously owned but not as good as the auditioning with the 1.6 and 1.7. My source of music is also pretty good quality. I am very much satisfied with what I have right now as it suits the budget and what I wanted to achieve, I will include a sub in some time and a DAC.

[Mash]

Then I would examine the room. It may be too "live" and need some dampening.

Start with "The Master Handbook of Acoustics" by F. Alton Everest. It is an easy read and a practical resource.

Then you can try "Noise & Vibration Control" by Leo Beranek.

Olsen's "Theoretical Acoustics" is an excellent read but it is also oriented toward engineers.... The math is ... well...

I use MMG's in the bedroom for serious (tube amp) listening, and Mackie HR824's for TV sound. Both setups have Velodyne 15" subs.... That room is about 20 ft by 11 & 1/2 ft with a volume ceiling and substantial damping.

[madarahr]

The room is neither live nor flat. I will do some reading. I am almost certain it would lead me to rearrange the room slightly. I will include a picture tomorrow. Regardless, it's very clear and enjoyable. My wife echos those comments despite the fact that she would never care for these things. That's a good sign of achievement already. I might go and do auditioning again just for a comparison!
Does the 15" sub provide more tighter frequency range than the smaller ones? I mean what would be the advantage over a smaller sub if the room volume isn't that large ?

[JoeE SP9]

You are comparing one speaker to another to upgrade to (or retain) the best that you can afford. If this pleases you, then fine. But you are pursuing a holy grail that you will never reach. Are the new speakers better, or only just as good but different?

There are other fun things to do in life. So, I do not do this.

My goal was to build a system that matches what I hear in the concert hall. I had this result when my final #1 system was in a perfect room (*very* large with 20 ft ceiling.... and solid-as-hell construction.) Other rooms fell short to different degrees, but if the room is impeding one's efforts to obtain the best or most accurate sound, even ever so slightly, then why go on a continuous search for the ever-more-perfect new speaker?

My approach was intended to do the job once and be done. If the sound matches the live music I hear, why worry further.

One can spend a lot of money on the high-end merry-go-round. I preferred to be able to retire while relatively young and in an excellent financial position. But although I still spent some real money, I added to my knowlege of EE along the way which opened more doors providing a career benefit with the company.

Mine is not an audio-purist approach, but then what really is?

You are at least a little mistaken.

Maggy's do respond to being broken in. The manufacturer says so and my experience of owning three (Model 1's, 2's and 3's) new pairs of Maggy's says so.

I am pursuing nothing. I've been using the same main speakers since before I started posting here, They have been driven by the same tube amps all this time. I admit that I have my eyes on some 120 Watt tube mono blocks. Probably later in 2012 they'll be driving my ESL's.

I switched to ESL's because IMO they were and are more real sounding than the Maggy's I've owned and heard. The sole exception being the 20.1's I've heard.

Sure servo subs do a good job. My "holy grail" speakers (IRS-V's, IRS Beta's and Apogee Grand's) use servo subs. However working within their limits transmission line subs offer all that I need including equalized response to 18Hz and +105dB levels. They are also as DIY's considerably less expensive. Each of my subs has 900 Watts to play with.

All my gear is in a dedicated treated room.

BTW: I too am a retired EE.

[JoeE SP9]

The room is neither live nor flat. I will do some reading. I am almost certain it would lead me to rearrange the room slightly. I will include a picture tomorrow. Regardless, it's very clear and enjoyable. My wife echos those comments despite the fact that she would never care for these things. That's a good sign of achievement already. I might go and do auditioning again just for a comparison!
Does the 15" sub provide more tighter frequency range than the smaller ones? I mean what would be the advantage over a smaller sub if the room volume isn't that large ?

All things considered a larger sub will generally play louder and deeper. However IMO a better alternative is distributed bass. This is accomplished with two or more, preferably three subs placed asymmetrically in the room. They will give higher SPL's and deeper response. Multiple subs also help cancel room nodes (peaks and dips) thus providing smoother bass response.

[Mash]

Well, Joe, "breaking in" implies "wearing out" or "fatigue failure".

I have not worn any audio equipment out except some tubes and a power supply cap that failed c1974. I have fried a cone speaker, and I have had a cone surround rot (long ago). I would not classify any of these as fatigue failures.

To "break something in" means that you have introduced a permanent and irreversable inelastic change, a redistribution of retained stresses, or a wearing away of material, and so it stands to reason that any real "change" that had resulted from "breaking in" a product will continue to accumulate with further product use until a plastic, wear, or fatigue failure occurs. If a flexing system is operated safely within its fatigue and elastic limits then no change will occur beyond any enviromental or oxidative degredation. This applies to all solids (materials having a grain structure) with the exception of Aluminum which does not demonstrate a fatigue limit.

"Breaking in" an item is a harmless fad in the audiophile world which manufacturers go along with so as to NOT alienate any potential customers. "Breaking in" is a harmless concept so no risk is thereby posed to the manufacturer. But audiophiles will swear that they hear a difference........

Automotive engines do "break in" and (eventually) they will also wear out.

[Mash]

"The Master Handbook of Acoustics" will provide a method to predict room modes based on room dimensions, but this procedure is best done in EXCEL (or equivalent) so that you can then reorder the calculated modes in numerical sequence from lowest to highest to determine how smooth, or how uneven, your room is. You want to see a smoothly rising graph with a uniform slope rather than a series of steps with bunched modes. Note that some judgement will be required when that room's volume is joined to another significant volume by a large opening.

Using more than one sub leads to a lot of work both with regard to placement in the room considering modes and also allowing for cancellation effects between or among subs as a result of their distances apart. If you have two sounds of the same magnitude, frequency, and phase combine, they add to a combined sound 3dB louder than the two original sounds. But if those two sounds are 180 degrees apart in phase, they add to ZERO dB. I have done the two-sub exercise in a large room and it was a good bit of calculating. I am not convinced the work was cost effective but it was fun.

[Claudio 1949]

The JD9A looks like a great choice. The 12AX7 tube is a dual channel durable workhorse. They last a long time and are plentiful. Look for some Eurorean or Russian (Soviet) tubes because JoLida may be using Chinese tubes. I replaced the Chinese tubes in my JoLida 302B and that was a real improvement.

My translations for info on the Yaqin SM12B were faulty so I have no opinion. I do wonder how you would ever get parts or service if there is a language problem.

Hey Mash - Thinking of buying a Jo-Lida, but am concerned that it might take a while to use it until the tubes warm up.....is that so?

[Mash]

So 10 to 30 seconds should make everything fine. Some fret about letting tubes warm for minutes or even hours to get the purest sound, but that is like letting your car warm up for 2 hours so that you get the best gas milage & performance....

[madarahr]

Hey Mash - Thinking of buying a Jo-Lida, but am concerned that it might take a while to use it until the tubes warm up.....is that so?

It takes a few seconds like mash mentioned.

When you bias the tubes make sure they have warmed up for 5 minutes.