My Titanic is dead

[L.J.]

I was playing some tunes in my bedroom and noticed a lack of bass. Went over to my 10" Titanic and no sound was playing from it. I checked the power led and it was lit green. I checked the settings on back of the sub and the setting on my Onkyo and everything was fine. I tried to play test tones and movies and still no sound from the sub.

Next I swapped sub cables and still same result. Decided to try my Denon up front. Test tones didn't produce sound from the sub. I took the sub apart and made sure the wires were still connected to the driver. Everything looked fine so I put it back together and tried playing some movies with low LFE. I turned the gain to max and noticed a slight vibration during explosions. I played some more test tones and max the gain again and there was a slight vibration coming from the sub but it's very faint.

Anybody have any thoughts? I'm gonna call PE in a little bit but the amp is only under warranty or a year. Is it possible it's the driver? Is there a test I can do to isolate the problem?

[GMichael]

I was playing some tunes in my bedroom and noticed a lack of bass. Went over to my 10" Titanic and no sound was playing from it. I checked the power led and it was lit green. I checked the settings on back of the sub and the setting on my Onkyo and everything was fine. I tried to play test tones and movies and still no sound from the sub.

Next I swapped sub cables and still same result. Decided to try my Denon up front. Test tones didn't produce sound from the sub. I took the sub apart and made sure the wires were still connected to the driver. Everything looked fine so I put it back together and tried playing some movies with low LFE. I turned the gain to max and noticed a slight vibration during explosions. I played some more test tones and max the gain again and there was a slight vibration coming from the sub but it's very faint.

Anybody have any thoughts? I'm gonna call PE in a little bit but the amp is only under warranty or a year. Is it possible it's the driver? Is there a test I can do to isolate the problem?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH............... ...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Say it ain't so!

Please let me know what they say.

[kexodusc]

I was playing some tunes in my bedroom and noticed a lack of bass. Went over to my 10" Titanic and no sound was playing from it. I checked the power led and it was lit green. I checked the settings on back of the sub and the setting on my Onkyo and everything was fine. I tried to play test tones and movies and still no sound from the sub.

Next I swapped sub cables and still same result. Decided to try my Denon up front. Test tones didn't produce sound from the sub. I took the sub apart and made sure the wires were still connected to the driver. Everything looked fine so I put it back together and tried playing some movies with low LFE. I turned the gain to max and noticed a slight vibration during explosions. I played some more test tones and max the gain again and there was a slight vibration coming from the sub but it's very faint.

Anybody have any thoughts? I'm gonna call PE in a little bit but the amp is only under warranty or a year. Is it possible it's the driver? Is there a test I can do to isolate the problem?

LJ - there's a batch of those SA240 amps that had a bad switch or something in them related to the protection circuitry (IIRC, don't quote me on that). I had to return that very same model in my sub 2 years ago when it died after 2 months or so of daily use.

I was in communication with Darren Kuzma at PE who was the product mgr (at the time). He actually tested mine and found the fault - I'll have to check the e-mails again to be sure I'm sure it was just a crappy little switch.

That said, they still had a very low return rate (higher than 98%) and remain one of the better sub amps out there at that size/price. I've ordered 6 or 7 now and mine was the only one that went back.

FWIW, my replacement amp has been running every day for over 2 years now without issue, and PE was great to deal with on the exchange.

I hate to suggest this, but just go through the motions (I'm sure you did already) to make sure your receiver settings are correct. Don't do what I've done - please make sure you're plugging the rca cable in the input, etc.

Try the speaker line level inputs to see if those work?

If not, well...you could try calling Parts Express and playing stupid - ask them when you bought it because it's dead and want to know if it's still under warranty - they may take pity on you!

[basite]

I don't know...

but, if you push the driver down, does it move easily, or is it really stiff (or harder to move than normally)
if so, it's likely that you blew the driver.

if not, the problem is in the amp, anything weird there? check for things that look fried...

Good luck,
Bert.

[L.J.]

I just tested the driver and that's fine. I called PE and since I'm no longer under warranty the best I can do is either send it in for repair ($17 shipping+$35 we'll take a look at it and possibly charge you more fee) or buy a new amp for $128. I was told I would have to modify the box to get the new amp to fit though.

[kexodusc]

I just tested the driver and that's fine. I called PE and since I'm no longer under warranty the best I can do is either send it in for repair ($17 shipping+$35 we'll take a look at it and possibly charge you more fee) or buy a new amp for $128. I was told I would have to modify the box to get the new amp to fit though.

LJ,
What is the model number on the amp, any idea? Do you have the original kit instructions? It should have a part number.

[L.J.]

No I can't find it. I'm one of those people that saves everything too. I talked to the tech dude at PE and he said that he would most likely just charge $35 unless there was something major that needed to be done.

[Woochifer]

$35, that's actually not a bad deal, especially if you're otherwise happy with that sub. Given that you don't have too many passive components in that sub, it's very likely some issue with the amp. (You could also check the connections and see if a wire or solder popped loose)

And at least you have a company available to do any servicing for you! Adire Audio, which made my sub, is now officially defunct. If I blow a driver or the amp goes kaput, I have no option for simple replacement parts (unless I want to scour eBay for other Rava subs and cannibalize those for parts).

[kexodusc]

No I can't find it. I'm one of those people that saves everything too. I talked to the tech dude at PE and he said that he would most likely just charge $35 unless there was something major that needed to be done.
So you're looking at $55 vs. $130 or so.

According to PE's website write-up, that kit uses the SA240 plate amp. I don't see why you'd have to mod the box to accomodate the same plate amp, unless the SA240 is different now, or they used a different amp back in the day?

What are the outside dimensions of the plate amp? And how big is the underside box part? I don't remember, but was the cabinet pre cut so that the amp was flush mounted with the back of the box? Got a pic?
If it's too small for the new amp, you could jigsaw/router it to spec of course. Drill holes are irrelevant. RV silicone, wood putty, bondo, whatever would fix those. If the pre-fab cutout is too big for the new amp, that's trickier.

I doubt any of us here can diagnose this thing over the web. MIne was a simple fix, but I asked for a new one under warranty and they obliged. You're gonna have to decide for yourself I guess.

Aww, man, this really sucks - They're normally very reliable little amps.

[L.J.]

So you're looking at $55 vs. $130 or so.

According to PE's website write-up, that kit uses the SA240 plate amp. I don't see why you'd have to mod the box to accomodate the same plate amp, unless the SA240 is different now, or they used a different amp back in the day?

What are the outside dimensions of the plate amp? And how big is the underside box part? I don't remember, but was the cabinet pre cut so that the amp was flush mounted with the back of the box? Got a pic?
If it's too small for the new amp, you could jigsaw/router it to spec of course. Drill holes are irrelevant. RV silicone, wood putty, bondo, whatever would fix those. If the pre-fab cutout is too big for the new amp, that's trickier.

I doubt any of us here can diagnose this thing over the web. MIne was a simple fix, but I asked for a new one under warranty and they obliged. You're gonna have to decide for yourself I guess.

Aww, man, this really sucks - They're normally very reliable little amps.

I decided to go ahead and just ship it for repair. I suggested purchasing a new amp vs repair to them yesterday and was told they are using a different amp now. This kinda stuff happens. Reminds me of the time my wife took our car through a gas station car wash and one of the machines ripped the entire side mirror off.

[kexodusc]

Yeah, we all take our turn - I went through 2 Marantz receivers in under a year several years back. Not fun. Other than that 1 plate amp (and I've ordered at least 20 sub amps from them now) I've never had a PE product issue. Well, UPS beat the crap out of an 8" woofer once, but PE just sent me a replacement on them.

At least the big Titanic is still workin'. 1000 watt amps don't grow on trees.

[Rich-n-Texas]

I decided to go ahead and just ship it for repair. I suggested purchasing a new amp vs repair to them yesterday and was told they are using a different amp now. This kinda stuff happens. Reminds me of the time my wife took our car through a gas station car wash and one of the machines ripped the entire side mirror off.
I hope the damage isn't too costly for ya L.J.(thinking GM has the same mindset) Isn't this the second *issue* you've run into since trying out that 805?

BTW, look for me to revive the Universal Remote Suggestions thread as I just ordered an 880. The price was right at Amazon, and I don't have enough room for the 6 I'm currently stuck with on my coffee table. :rolleyes:

[GMichael]

I hope the damage isn't too costly for ya L.J.(thinking GM has the same mindset) Isn't this the second *issue* you've run into since trying out that 805?

BTW, look for me to revive the Universal Remote Suggestions thread as I just ordered an 880. The price was right at Amazon, and I don't have enough room for the 6 I'm currently stuck with on my coffee table. :rolleyes:

The 805? Are you saying that his Onkyo blew out his sub?

[L.J.]

No it was connected to a 603. Rich is probably thinking 805 since I just stated it was connected to a Onkyo.

It was pretty strange that my 2910 would skip on CD playback, digital or analog connection, while connected via HDMI to the 805 for video only. One of those crazy HDMI things I guess.

The 2700 has been working fine with no problems. Still gotta toy around with the memory setting though.

[GMichael]

The 2700 has been working fine with no problems. Still gotta toy around with the memory setting though.

I love that memory setting thingy.
I run the auto set-up and store it in the number 6 spot.
Then I make some changes, like setting the EQ flat till I have a basic set-up that I like. That goes into setting 5.
Then ran the calibration CD and made more changes to be stored as number 4.
Set the receiver to straight or pure direct and save it as number 1.
Go back into manual set-up, bump up the center & base a tiny bit, pick the surround I like best and save that as number 2.
As I tweek this and that, I save it as number 3. If I find one I like better, I move it to 1 for audio only or 2 for HT.
Switching from 1 to 2 or back is a flick of a button (hit twice).
Simple and fun.

[L.J.]

Well I got off the phone with PE and the amp is all repaired and on it's way back. He said the problem had something to do with the signal switch. Basically everything was fine, the amp simply wasn't getting a signal or the signal was stopping at that point. He explained in further detail but I can't remember all he said.

The charge was only $35 for the repair and I also got a 90 day warranty on the repair work. I was also told to call him directly if I ever had any issues and he would take care of me. All in all I gotta say I'm very impressed with their CS and will continue to recommend the Titanic subs.

[GMichael]

Well I got off the phone with PE and the amp is all repaired and on it's way back. He said the problem had something to do with the signal switch. Basically everything was fine, the amp simply wasn't getting a signal or the signal was stopping at that point. He explained in further detail but I can't remember all he said.

The charge was only $35 for the repair and I also got a 90 day warranty on the repair work. I was also told to call him directly if I ever had any issues and he would take care of me. All in all I gotta say I'm very impressed with their CS and will continue to recommend the Titanic subs.

Great news. What's the ETA?

[L.J.]

Great news. What's the ETA?

Should be here in a week. Maybe by next Monday. My C3's actually sound pretty freakin' good without it though. Shouldn't be a long wait.

[L.J.]

BAAAAAM!!! Amp got here today and everything is working fine.

[GMichael]

That's great!
But every time you bump this thread, my heart skips a beat.

[Fred333]

Awesome news on getting the new amp.