looking for sub enclosure plans (15" Dayton Quatro)

[traut]

Does anybody know of a website that has detailed plans for a sealed enclosure that would work well with the 15" Dayton Quatro?

I'm a complete novice when it comes to woodworking, and I don't have all of the proper tools to build the box, so I think that I'm going to go to a pro to have the box made. I'd like to have a set of plans to give him with the materials.

Cheers,
traut<!--end_body-->

[kexodusc]

I don't have blueprints, but mine measures 20" cubed if I recall, double thick front baffle. Use 0.75" MDF. I also made an internal "shelf brace" which is just another 19.25" X 19.25" piece with a big hole routered in it...gives it more structural support.

You can build anywhere from a 2.5 to a 3.5 cubic ft cabinet for that...the 20" cubed is about 3.5 cubic feet, 18" cubed with a double thick front baffle would be about 2.5 cubic feet....

You should have the plate amp and driver to measure before routering/cutting those holes...

[jocko_nc]

I'll pick up where kexo left off... I would recommend having all the parts in-hand before finalizing a design that is going to be sent off. You will have to account for every screw, every hole, and every possible interference. Lay the parts out and measure in all three directions. If someone else is doing the work, you must get it exactly right the first time.

That said, if you do it on some type of CAD program, a decent cabinet shop ought to be able to dump your plans to a CNC router. I have a guy that did my cabinets that has a very hi-tech shop. He occasionally does cabinets for the local audio nuts. The finished product is tops.

jocko

[traut]

thanks for the tips!

I found a friend that said he'd help me make the cuts (he has a table saw and a router). What kind of joints did you use on the sides of the box? Should I just use regular wood glue to hold it all together? No screws??? Are there any disadvantages to using a nice oak plywood instead of mdf?

kexo, did you just glue the two identical pieces together for the "double thick front baffle?"

I've got all of my parts, so hopefully, my friend will have some time to help me get it started this weekend. This is my first DIY audio project... can't wait to hear the finished product!

[kexodusc]

thanks for the tips!

I found a friend that said he'd help me make the cuts (he has a table saw and a router). What kind of joints did you use on the sides of the box? Should I just use regular wood glue to hold it all together? No screws??? Are there any disadvantages to using a nice oak plywood instead of mdf?

kexo, did you just glue the two identical pieces together for the "double thick front baffle?"

I've got all of my parts, so hopefully, my friend will have some time to help me get it started this weekend. This is my first DIY audio project... can't wait to hear the finished product!

Wood glue is essential, yes, use that...good idea to seal the cracks with silicone too...regular white stuff or whatever.

I prefer dado joints, used with dado blades on a table saw or a router. Just a rabbet. It's stronger because it allows more surface area for the glue, and things snap together like a glove. But good old fashioned butt joints are fine too....I used my nail gun to hold things in place after the glue was applied.

Yes, glueing and clamping two pieces together makes the double thick front baffle...it's a good idea for subs.

[traut]

cool, thanks again Kex!

Does anybody know if there will be a difference in sound between plywood and mdf?

I'm thinking I'd rather go w/ the plywood for looks.

[kexodusc]

If you use a decent birch or oak ply, you should be okay...minimum 5 ply...To be honest, for a subwoofer, you'd probably benefit from the higher density and consistency of MDF. Saves money too if you're prone to messing up the odd cut.

[jocko_nc]

MDF is very easy to work with and inexpensive. It cuts more consistently than even the best plywood. It is very dense. The problem is it does not have the tensile strength of wood. You have to be more careful with screws and "T" nuts. It makes a lot of sawdust, too. Tiny particles.

If you are going to do simple butt joints, I would recommend use of many construction screws and glue. For paint or veneer purposes, dado joints are going to be a lot easier to work with.

For the double baffle, I would cut out each piece independently unless you have some serious woodworking equipment. 1 1/2 is very thick.

Good Luck.

jocko

[traut]

alright guys, thanks again for the tips!

i'll prbly go w/ the mdf, then if i really want the wood look, i can always veneer it later.