Shielded Bookshelf Speaker Recommendations [Archive] - Audio & Video Forums


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01-16-2004, 11:44 AM
I know this is an old question, but...
Can anyone recommend a shielded 2-way bookshelf design for about $150 / per speaker?
I've built the Frias speakers and I really like them - now I need some shielded speakers. So if anyone, especially those who have built or heard the Frias speakers, has a suggestion....

Thank you.

EFE Speakers
01-16-2004, 02:56 PM
I usually don't recommend speakers I sell because it looks like I'm trying to promote business, but that isn't the case here. Only because you enjoy my DIY speakers will I recommend these speakers, since they are both tuned by the same method and have very similar voicing. I literally sell hundreds of these speakers to those who have built my DIY as well as to those that have bought my EFE TECHNOLOGY speakers, because these make a very good match for surrounds or even as front mains. My extensively modified BIC DV-62si bookshelf speakers! They are my biggest seller because they offer the EFE sound at a budget price ($250pr + shipping). There are many customers using the DIY as front mains and the modified BIC's as center and rears (see reviews), the speakers match perfectly because they were all tuned to match each other. If interested, the only factor I would need to know is whether you have the older or newer version DIY, I tune the BIC's a little different according to whichever you own.

Notice to all
This is not an advertisement and I don't need the business since I am constanly backed up as it is, but I only posted this response because this poster already has and enjoys my DIY's and may want a very good match with shielded drivers. Another poster (MCH), has built the DIY as a center speaker using some Peerless shielded drivers and claims they sound just as good, you might look up his postings and try that also. Success!

Contact me at the address below if you need more information. Thanks!

Ed Frias

Jim Clark
01-16-2004, 03:16 PM
I usually don't recommend speakers I sell because it looks like I'm trying to promote business, but that isn't the case here. Ed Frias

Ed, you get reamed recently? I've seldom seen anyone go so far out of their to NOT promote something. I hope you wouldn't have anything to worry about on this site at least.

I'm still adjusting to the orignal DIY's which is mainly because I've spent the past 11 years listening almost exclusively to Klipsch speakers. I'm going to order the assembled updated crossover for the DIY's and I think from what I've read that this approach may be better suited for me. If not, I can always go back. I am having fun playing around and feel I got an exceptional bargain for my stands and assembled AR DIYs (300 which included shipping). Who knows, before long I may be coming around to order a modified bic center?

It's great to see you on this board, I was afraid that you were among the casualties of the change over.


EFE Speakers
01-16-2004, 05:43 PM
Hello Jim,
Good to hear from you! I like this new system because it notifies you when someone responds to your posting without having to check the board everyday.

Something to consider. Perhaps you might just remove the woofers, pull the crossovers out and add the couple of parts required to change your older DIY to the later version, it really isn't that hard! You do have to remove the old .15mh inductor on the tweeter circuit and exchange it with a .3mh, but the other modification is simply soldering a 1ohm resistor onto the existing parts and adding the 2ohm changeable resistor at the tweeters positive terminal. It sounds like you were considering buying the completed speakers from Speaker City, if so, make sure to tell them you want the latest Ed Frias version crossover with an extra pair of 2ohm (10watt) resistors added onto the tweeters. They may have you install the resistors on the tweeters yourself. If so, you'll need some extra male and female (.110 inch) quickdisconnects to crimp on each end of the resistor so you can simply slip on or remove them should you decide to tune the speaker to your personal taste later. I also use 1/2 inch heat shrink to cover the tweeter resistors as a deadening insulator should the resistor touch the cabinet, but that is just for my own little tweak and you could wrap it with poly cotton. Keep the music playing! (( ;

Ed Frias

01-22-2004, 06:03 PM
Is $300 including enclosures or not?

EFE Speakers
01-22-2004, 07:18 PM
Hi Ryewoods,
Yes, for approximately $300-$325 you can purchase the crossovers and drivers from Madisound and the finished cabinets (L-6) including grills from Speaker City. You'll need to buy the input cups also. The cabinets come in cherry oak, light oak and rosewood oak finishes, I think the rosewood is being discontinued. Madisound's crossovers are built on heavy copper circuit boards and they also use quality capacitors like Solen, I prefer them for the internals. Success!

Ed Frias

01-23-2004, 07:51 AM
Ed, I have read the DIY article on your speakers here. They sure look nice and in the future I may build some. My question is, how hard would it be for you to post a DIY Subwoofer project here? I just ordered the Dayton MKII Titanic subwoofer from parts express and am in the process of having a co-worker build the box for me. I had visited other DIY subwoofer sites but most were either way to big and heavy. It would be nice to have a DIY subwoofer article here. One that doesn't require master cabinetry skills, etc. Anyway, I feel it is a pleasure just to have you post here. Thanks, Paul.

EFE Speakers
01-24-2004, 02:22 PM
Hi Poneal,
With all the good subs on the market at great prices, I can't see designing another one. In the $300-$500 range, there are some very good sub kits, step up to $700-$800 and you can by a commercially built sub like the HSU that in my opinion is as good as many $2000-$3000 subs. A good quality 12"sub driver and a powerful 250 to 300watt (8ohms rating) sub amplifier is going to cost at least in the neighborhood of $300 (if not more), the only other thing needed is a well designed cabinet and I'm sure there are plans for some good designs available. In my opinion, a major factor in subwoofers is using a very powerful amplifier (250-400watts), because a large driver needs lots of current to control and keep it tight and clean!

In the speaker business there seems two types of designers, those who specialize in subwoofers and those who specialize in main speakers, I prefer the latter although there are some who do both. If I were to design a good powered sub, the first place I start is with a durable and powerful amplifer! There are a large number of good drivers available and all would sound cleaner with a high current, high damping factor amp. Thanks for asking anyhow!

Ed Frias

01-25-2004, 08:12 AM
Thanks for your honesty Ed. I just recently purchased the Dayton MKII 12" driver from Parts Express. I have a coworker who is building the cabinet. With driver installed the internal cubic volume is about 1.9. For the amplifer, I am going to use a 150watt into 4 ohms Peavy mixer amp. After reading your post about the amp being the most important piece in a subwoofer, I am having second thoughts on using this amp to drive the subwoofer. Do you know if the plate amps at Parts Express are a quality product? Which plate amp would you recommend to drive the above driver? Thanks, Paul.

EFE Speakers
01-26-2004, 07:29 PM
Hi Paul,
I think Parts Express or MCM Electronics has a 250 or 300watt plate amp, I can't remember which. When I say 250 or 300watts, I mean an amp with at least that much power rating @ 8ohms, not 4ohms. The 150watt @ 4ohms you refer to is only a 75watt amp @ 8ohms. Yes, you can buy a 4ohm impedance driver and have the amp produce 150watts, but that is not enough current! Look for a good 300watt (or more) plate amp rated at 8ohms, then you'll hear the kind of control I speak of. This recent 4 and 6ohm rating system for sub amps or receivers is just an old trick used in the past to make people think they are buying a more powerful piece of equipment, but they're not! Always look for the 8ohm rating, that will tell you what you need! A good high current amp will be rated at 8ohms and usually put out a lot more current at a 4ohm rating. Success!

Ed Frias

01-26-2004, 07:39 PM
Thanks Ed. Looks like I'll be saving a few months to get that plate amp. The WAF factor. She already gave me a frown when the UPS guy arrived with my subwoofer. Looks like I will spend more than originally planned. I gave my co-worker 100 bucks for wood, screws, labor, etc. With a plate amp purchase, that will up my total cost to around $400. I'm going to kick myself if it doesn't sound good. By the way, thanks for taking the time to respond to my posts. Paul.

01-27-2004, 09:13 AM
Poneal. I agree with Ed on the importance of the power of the sub amp. I currently have the Adire Tempest. I originally was using a old amp that was rated at 120W RMS @ 8ohms per channel. I connected each channel to each voice coil. I was getting good bass. It was realtively flat down to 20Hz (I have no test frequencies below that). I bought the Adire plate amp rated at 250W @ 4ohms and connected that. I did not get the same flat response down to 20Hz. There was a big drop starting at 25Hz. Unfortunately I sold the old amp in order to buy the plate amp. I'd love to get my hands on an old NAD 2200.
So I also think the amp is a crucial part in the sub performance.