Wanted: EFE Speaker Cabinet Instructions

[bcass]

I am planning to build the AR.com DIY speakers. The drivers and crossovers and other hardware I can of course just purchase from Madisound. However, I'd like to save some of the $165 they want for two speaker cabinets by building my own. However, I'm a visual person and so I need drawings or diagrams of the cabinet cutting and assembly procedure. Ed has provided the dimensions -- has anyone drawn up a materials list and an instruction set to build the cabinets out of 3/4" MDF? If not, I will attempt to put something together in a CAD program.

Also, if you have built the cabinets yourself, can you estimate what the total cost in materials was, and how much time you spent per cabinet? That would help in determining whether just buying them pre-made is a better choice.

Thank you!
Bryan

[kexodusc]

Hmm, how many are you building?

Try these cuts:

Front: 13 X 8-3/4 (full front area of speaker)
Sides: 13 X 8-1/2 (full height, 9-1/4 depth minus 3/4" for front baffle)
Top/Bottom: 8-1/2 X 7-1/4 (9-1/4 depth minus 3/4" for front baffle, 8-3/4" width less 1-1/2" for sides)
Back: 7-1/4 X 11-1/2 (should be surrounded on all sides by other pieces)

(double check these of course)

The driver cutouts/holes can't be explained any better than Ed's description, really, ...I just used a nailgun (2 or 3 small nails per joint) and wood glue to attach the pieces...don't worry about minor gaps, that's going to happen. Allow time for glue to dry. Use auto bodyfill (bondo) for filling the cracks, you can buy that cheap...be fast applying it after you mix the hardener though, I figure you've got 8-10 minutes to work with the stuff, so the trick is to apply hardener to small separate amounts as needed.
If you have dado blades and can cut rabbet joints, the measurements will be different. I'd recommend it for strength though, but it's not necessary, most people I know didn't bother.

Make sure you countersink the ring-hole for the port tube before assembling the cabinet! The other cuts can be done after veneering.

When you cut out the driver holes, do the countersinking if you can.

4' X 8' MDF - $20
Bondo - $10 (or drywall compound you have lying around = $free)
Wood Glue - $10 for alot more than you'll need
Veneer - $25 per pair tops. (iron on is good for newbies)
Varnish and Stain + brushes/sandpaper = $20

$85 with glue, varnish, stain, and bondo left for at least 2 more pairs. You can get the veneer much cheaper. Or use the vinyl laminate that speaker makers use...$12 will do a few pairs.
I think my total per pair was closer to $60. Much cheaper than $165 + $30 shipping...no comparison. Especially if you build 2 pairs or more for a home theater.

I cut out 12 speakers in about 2 hours...it went by fast. Routering after assembling took maybe another 2 or 3 hours for 12! I let the glue dry overnight.
Veneering takes the longest, but it's fun. Just go slow.

[MCH]

****Also, if you have built the cabinets yourself, can you estimate what the total cost in materials was, and how much time you spent per cabinet? That would help in determining whether just buying them pre-made is a better choice.****

I build a lot of furniture pieces for my family as a hobby (I'm retired). I've built beds, night stands, coffee tables, book cases, wall bed units, tables, deacon benchs, guitar stands, speakers, subwoofers......
A lot of times after a project is complete the materials can be quite high (depending upon the woods I'm using). When I look at some of the prices you can buy manufactured pieces for, there is not always savings. If I were to calculate a market wage into the hours of the project I would exceed the manufactured prices most times. But my projects are (I think) well built, they can be unique designs, they can be customized for specific needs and they are not mass produced. But the biggest bonus is the pride I feel after completion, priceless.
If determining costs strictly by time value and materials costs, the pre-made cabinets are probably the better choice. Especially if you are not comfortable in the building process. Woodworking should be enjoyed.

[bcass]

****Also, if you have built the cabinets yourself, can you estimate what the total cost in materials was, and how much time you spent per cabinet? That would help in determining whether just buying them pre-made is a better choice.****

I build a lot of furniture pieces for my family as a hobby (I'm retired). I've built beds, night stands, coffee tables, book cases, wall bed units, tables, deacon benchs, guitar stands, speakers, subwoofers......
A lot of times after a project is complete the materials can be quite high (depending upon the woods I'm using). When I look at some of the prices you can buy manufactured pieces for, there is not always savings. If I were to calculate a market wage into the hours of the project I would exceed the manufactured prices most times. But my projects are (I think) well built, they can be unique designs, they can be customized for specific needs and they are not mass produced. But the biggest bonus is the pride I feel after completion, priceless.
If determining costs strictly by time value and materials costs, the pre-made cabinets are probably the better choice. Especially if you are not comfortable in the building process. Woodworking should be enjoyed.

Hi MCH, thank you for your response. I have built some rough projects, like my workbench, an outdoor swing, birdhouses, interior framing, shelving and other things that will turn out OK if you're not exactly accurate in your cuts and assembly. But I was just wary of having to build a cabinet where the internal dimensions are critical to proper functioning, as well as getting the cutouts right, the port tube installed right, the cabinet sealed... I guess I would rather spend a few extra bucks for the skills of a professional when the results need to be more exact than this sloppy carpenter can do. ;-)

By the way, if I ever retire some day, I'd like to take up the same hobby you have. :-)

Bryan